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Jun 19, 2013, 10:43am

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frenchmystiquetour
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More biking in the Brie region, France
« Thread Started on Jun 15, 2011, 11:43am »

Usually when I write trip reports about biking I spend a lot of time doing research on the places I visit so I can include tid-bits of history and maybe a few interesting anecdotes to entertain the reader. But I'm feeling really lazy today and I decided to just post pictures I took along the way without all the historical details documenting each place I visited. This will be a report about biking nowhere in particular through towns that have nothing of interest to offer the visitor (I doubt that these towns ever get visitors). Wait, wait...don't go away just yet! You'll still get to see lots of pretty pictures of the French countryside and some quaint villages so I can promise at least some visual stimulation.

The Brie region is the closest area to where I live where one can find themself in the middle of nowhere so that was my destination for the day. I hopped on my bike and pedaled to the adjacent town of Champigny-sur-Marne where I could take the RER line E to get to the country. Naturally since I am in France I discovered that train service was interrupted due to a ''mouvement social'' (a strike) and if that wasn't enough there was also an interruption of service due to work being done on the rail line. I was getting a taste of life in the real France. Actually, only a few trains were not running and I only had to switch trains at one stop so I wasn't terribly inconvenienced. My train arrived at Tournan-en-Brie and after exiting the train station I followed signs to ''Centre Ville''. Here it is.

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Saturday is wedding day in France and if you are near a town hall (Hotel de Ville) on a Saturday chances are pretty high that you'll see a wedding. The last photo was of the town hall and indeed there was a wedding.

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I said I wouldn't recount any history for you but if you are interested in discovering some for yourself here is the link to the town website where you can learn about the history of Tournan from 1147 to the present:

http://www.tournan-en-brie.fr/Tournan.asp?IdPage=3535

There were a few other nice streets in Tournan but I didn't get any pictures. It was kind of a pleasant town actually. I was looking around for some place to grab a sandwich for the ride but had no luck. I went to the patisserie and settled for two quiche oignons lardons (quiche with onions and bacon) and a tasty looking pastry. I stuffed them in my backpack and off I went. After pedaling though the ugly industrial zone on the outskirts of town and crossing the highway I arrived at last in the middle of nowhere.

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You never know when you might get a nice surprise so I was pleased to see this sign.

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« Last Edit: Jun 22, 2011, 10:22am by frenchmystiquetour »

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Re: More biking in the Brie region, France
« Reply #1 on Jun 15, 2011, 11:44am »

This seemed like a nice place to enjoy my picnic lunch so I got out the food and grabbed a seat on the wall in front of the château.

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Lunch finished I hopped back in the saddle and moved along.

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The next town I entered was Liverdy. I often make jokes about always encountering the village lunatic whenever I ride through small villages and Liverdy was no exception. The village lunatic was there to greet me as I entered town. You can see him sitting in front of the wall on the left of the photo. He mumbled something to me as I rode by but I had no idea what he said so I mumbled back something equally unintelligible in what I considered to be lunatic talk. He smiled so he must have understood.

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As I was heading out of the village I noticed this standing stone off to my left. There were no signs near it but I'm pretty sure it was a menhir (ancient standing stone) based on its shape, its smoothness and the fact that it wasn't the same type of stone as most of the other large blocks of stone in the area.

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Due to the drought we've been experiencing it appears that the wheat and oats are maturing early. These seem to be among the primary crops in this area and the shimmering golden hues of oats waving in the breeze and changing color with the passing clouds and sunlight was a beautiful site to behold throughout the day.

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Another dominant crop is colza (for canola oil) which is past its most beautiful stage. Earlier in the season it bursts with bright yellow flowers.

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« Last Edit: Jun 22, 2011, 10:23am by frenchmystiquetour »

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Re: More biking in the Brie region, France
« Reply #2 on Jun 15, 2011, 11:45am »

Here I am approaching Châtres.

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As you can see there are no major sites of interest in any of these villages but they are peaceful and tranquil and there are always old houses with beautiful gardens and an old church in the center of the village. Sometimes you get lucky and there is a bar tabac where you can hang out with the locals. Back to the countryside.

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I like taking pictures of old run down buildings. This barn suited me well.

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As a compliment there was even what appeared to be an old abandonded house across the street which was being overtaken by trees and weeds.

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Here's a field of wheat.

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« Last Edit: Jun 22, 2011, 10:24am by frenchmystiquetour »

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Re: More biking in the Brie region, France
« Reply #3 on Jun 15, 2011, 11:46am »

In between the huge expanses of agricultural fields there is always a little area of shady green forest to break up the ride and provide a change of scenery.

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I'm sure you've always wanted to visit Fontenay-Trésigny so here it is.

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They were renovating the old farm building which you see covered in scaffolding. I wish it had been open as it looked lovely but this was the only picture I could get.

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This was a lively and nice little town. Still nothing much to see but it was pretty and there were plenty of stores and cafés to check out.

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I enjoyed my visit to Fontenay. While there I noticed signs to a château. It didn't say how far away it was but I decided to see if I could find it. This road looks like it leads somewhere, doesn't it?

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Sitting amidst many of the wheat/oat fields are old farmsteads, many of which have been here for centuries. Some of them go back even further and are of the fortified type common in this area during medieval times when it was neccessary to protect yourself from marauding gangs of thieves.

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I was in search of a different château but since I noticed this sign pop up out of nowhere I decided to follow it and have a look.

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« Last Edit: Jun 22, 2011, 10:24am by frenchmystiquetour »

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Re: More biking in the Brie region, France
« Reply #4 on Jun 15, 2011, 11:47am »

I started down the road and in the distance I could see a line of cars approaching, all of them honking their horns. This is typical of what cars do in a French wedding procession so I decided to see what the bride and groom were up to.

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The wedding procession was turning into the château. When the last car had entered I tagged along behind it, looking very inconspicuous on my bike. Since no one stopped me I decided I would crash the party. I know it's not proper etiquette but who doesn't want to party with French Mystique?! Besides, in my shorts and t-shirt I was quite sure I would blend in well with all the elegant people in their fine tailored suits and lovely dresses. I made a little video of my entry to the wedding.

It's a good thing there was a wedding today or I wouldn't have seen the château since I believe it is only open when there is a function. Here are some pics I took.

[image]

« Last Edit: Jun 22, 2011, 10:26am by frenchmystiquetour »

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Re: More biking in the Brie region, France
« Reply #5 on Jun 15, 2011, 11:48am »

Back on the road I found the sign to the château that I was originally looking for.

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I finally reached the end of the road leading to the château....

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….but even though it is open to the public it was closed today so I had to settle for this shot of the grounds from behind the fence.

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The next village I entered was Chaumes-en-Brie.

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« Last Edit: Jun 22, 2011, 10:26am by frenchmystiquetour »

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Re: More biking in the Brie region, France
« Reply #6 on Jun 15, 2011, 11:49am »

Time to head out of town.

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But I took one final look over my shoulder at Chaumes.

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« Last Edit: Jun 22, 2011, 10:27am by frenchmystiquetour »

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Re: More biking in the Brie region, France
« Reply #7 on Jun 15, 2011, 11:50am »

Next up is Beauvoir. Beauvoir means beautiful to see and I'll agree that it was.

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Beauvoir has a pleasant château.

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And on to the next village.

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« Last Edit: Jun 22, 2011, 10:28am by frenchmystiquetour »

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Re: More biking in the Brie region, France
« Reply #8 on Jun 15, 2011, 11:51am »

In the distance I could see Courtomer.

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Entering the village.

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Are you ready to see some more wheat?

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« Last Edit: Jun 22, 2011, 10:30am by frenchmystiquetour »

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Re: More biking in the Brie region, France
« Reply #9 on Jun 15, 2011, 11:52am »

I was approaching another château but it was private and had a big wall in front if it.

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This was the only picture I could get through the fence.

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Here is Bernay.

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« Last Edit: Jun 22, 2011, 10:31am by frenchmystiquetour »

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Re: More biking in the Brie region, France
« Reply #10 on Jun 15, 2011, 11:53am »

Instead of wheat, how about some colza?

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Here I am approaching the nice little medieval town of Rozay-en-Brie.

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Here's the old lavoir (washhouse), something every small village seems to have preserved. I've read about some villages in this area that were using these right up to the 1970's.

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« Last Edit: Jun 22, 2011, 10:32am by frenchmystiquetour »

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Re: More biking in the Brie region, France
« Reply #11 on Jun 15, 2011, 11:54am »

Here are some remains of the medieval ramparts which once surrounded the village.

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Here is a statue. Perhaps you've seen one of these before?

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And the now familiar back into the country photo.

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At this point, who doesn't love colza?

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« Last Edit: Jun 22, 2011, 10:32am by frenchmystiquetour »

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Re: More biking in the Brie region, France
« Reply #12 on Jun 15, 2011, 11:55am »

Okay, at this point I was approaching something I really wanted to see and had planned into my trip. I think everyone is familiar with Lafayette, friend of George Washington during The American Revolution and at first a hero of The French Revolution but later despised by the revolutionaries and forced into exile. His exile was supposed to be for life but he did return to France. However, he could not return to Paris so he had to settle for life in the countryside. He lived in a château I was approaching called La Grange Bléneau from 1802 until his death in 1834. Behind the farm in the above photo I could see several spires poking above the tree line and I was getting excited to see it as I approached. The château dates from the 14th to 15th centuries with some additions in the 17th century.

I've seen photos and it is a gorgeous castle with that fairytale medieval type appearance with towers and turrets and a gate and drawbridge and all that cool stuff. The castle has been untouched since Lafayette's death and is owned by a descendant who has a charitable foundation devoted to its preservation and that of its historic contents.

The history is all fine and well but I wanted to see the castle. I rode down a pretty little country road and I spied what I was sure was the entry drive to the château. There were no gates restricting the entry and no signs stating it was private property so I was expecting to ride right up. There were two teens in the driveway working on a motorcycle and as I passed them entering the domain I heard them call out ''C'est interdit!'', which means no trespassing. I reflexively spun around and uttered the same phrase with a question tonality ''C'est interdit?'' and I received a ''Oui, monsieur'' in reply. Damn it! I was so looking forward to this as the highlight of the day. I was totally bummed out. I left but I was still scheming about maybe cutting through the woods and trying to sneak a photo. I found a trail from the road and followed it but it only lead me to a locked gate where the only thing I could see was a garden. Here is my disappointing photo of the garden.

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I'm still trying to find out if this château is open to the public but I'm not having any luck. Perhaps it is open in September during the Journées du Patrimoine and if so I am definitely going back.

It was getting late in the day and I had to get to the town of Nangis to catch the last train back to Paris, which was at 8:15 and it was almost 7:00 with Nangis some 15 kilometers away.

The town of Courpalay was also a place I had in mind for a visit.

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It is a bit ugly on its outskirts as there is a large grain processing plant that greets you on arrival.

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There are a number of these factories dotting the surrounding landscape and though they are not pretty you've got to have someplace to process all the crops that are grown in this area.

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The sign in the above photo sums up the reason for my wanting to visit here. It is a town that produces a local beer called Bière de Brie. I figured it was too late for a tasting but I was hoping maybe I'd have time to at least buy some so I headed down the street to which the sign pointed.

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After a few minutes of riding I still hadn't reached the brewery and I really had to get going so sadly I turned around and headed back towards Nangis.

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If anyone is interested in visiting the brewery in Courpalay here is the website:

http://www.biere-de-brie.com/

I was also bummed because I had wanted to visit the old downtown of Courpalay. I knew it was a charming little place but I had to settle for this distant rooftop view with the church steeple.

[image]

« Last Edit: Jun 22, 2011, 10:33am by frenchmystiquetour »

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Re: More biking in the Brie region, France
« Reply #13 on Jun 15, 2011, 12:11pm »

« Last Edit: Jun 22, 2011, 10:34am by frenchmystiquetour »

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Re: More biking in the Brie region, France
« Reply #14 on Jun 15, 2011, 12:12pm »

I was finally on the outskirts of Nangis and while I didn't have time to visit today I did visit another time so why not tell what I know about it and show you some photos?

During the 1st century the Romans established a presence in the area and the town was near a major roadway the Romans had established to pursue their conquest of Gaul. There are a few villages in the region where traces of Roman occupation are still in existence and archaeological digs in the area often uncover evidence of Roman occupation.

The village first enters written history in medieval times when a castle was built on top of a motte (dirt mound), typical of castle construction during this era. The castle was built to serve as protection and lodging for those on the route from Paris to the grand fairs of the Brie and Champagne regions. As later Lords occupied the castle it also served to protect the local inhabitants. Over time it was also enlarged by successive owners. Pretty much the only events of historical importance in town involve the castle, such as when Joan of Arc visited it during her campaign to assist Charles VII in 1429 and when Louis XIV paid a visit to the castle in 1678. Two thirds of the original castle were demolished in 1795 after having been sold to a Paris notary. In 1814 the town and its environs were the scene of battle between Napoléon and foreign troops who had invaded the country to dislodge him. One large battle occurred on the plains between Nangis and nearby Mormant. A troop of Bavarians occuppied the town and after dislodging them Naploléon spent a night in the castle and his toops camped on its grounds.

There are still some vestiges of its medieval heritage, such as the moat and part of their ramparts as well as a few of the castle's towers and portions of the walls. There are also a few ancient dwellings scattered about town as well as a 13th century church adjacent to the town hall/former castle. It is one of the larger towns within a 20km or so radius and has the most to offer in terms of commercial services and serves many of the nearby smaller towns and villages. Let's have a look around town.

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So there's Nangis for you. Now, back to today. It was 7:55 when I arrived at the train station, still 20 minutes before my train. I went to the ticket machine in front of the station to buy my ticket and everything went smoothly until it told me it wouldn't accept my credit card. This was not right since my card matched the cards the machine said it accepted. These machines don't take bills but they sometimes do take coins so now I had to go rush to find a place to buy a drink or snack so I could break a bill, since I didn't have the required 7.80 euros in change. I managed to find a small supermarket in town that was still open so I grabbed a bottle of beer and headed for the check-out line. Doesn't it always happen when you're in a rush at check-out there is always someone in front of you with a huge amount of stuff they are buying? And the stuff gets rung up slowly. And then they forget something and go to the very back of the supermarket to search for it while you wait. And then they decide to pay by check. And then the cashier has some sort of problem with their check and they stand idly discussing the situation while you are standing there with you lone purchase, which would really just take a second to buy, and you are watching the clock as it seems to count minutes faster than usual and you are afraid you will miss your train, which is the last train back to Paris? Do you know that feeling? Well, that's exactly what I was feeling. Once the clusterf*#k at the register cleared up I slapped my 10 euro bill for my 95 centime beer onto the conveyor belt and popped off the top of the beer, simultaneously asking if I could have change for the train ticket machine. It was in my mouth and being guzzled before I even hit the exit.

Back at the train station I had 5 minutes left so I grabbed my change and dropped it in the slot. Everything was going smoothly.....until the machine spit my change back out and the screen read ''Due to a technical problem this machine can not print tickets''. Now ain't that sweet? No way I was missing the last train so I figured I'd just explain the story if anyone came to check my ticket, which they didn't. Back at Gare de l'Est I had one last hurdle to clear. There are turnstiles as you exit the platform and you are supposed to use a ticket to exit. However, I have in the past noticed a gate to the side that is unattended and leads out to the main hall. I am a believer in not taking advantage of the train system and never jump a turnstile or try to cheat the system in any way but the system had let me down today and I was in no mood for fairness. I looked around for any train officials and seeing none off through the secret gate I went. Free at last. And so are you, so goodbye.

« Last Edit: Jun 22, 2011, 10:35am by frenchmystiquetour »

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Re: More biking in the Brie region, France
« Reply #15 on Jun 15, 2011, 12:38pm »

nice ride! whenever you post about your bike ride, it almost feels as if I were riding with you. so thank you!

so I gather there were no chaume roofs in Chaumes? hah! now I'll have to read about it!

this Chateau du Monceau does remind me of something. I'll have to read about it as well!

good thing that I am on hols.

« Last Edit: Jun 15, 2011, 12:43pm by auntieannie »

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Dans les grandes choses, les hommes se montrent comme il leur convient de se montrer; dans les petites, ils se montrent comme ils sont.

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Re: More biking in the Brie region, France
« Reply #16 on Jun 15, 2011, 5:38pm »

Another outstanding report with all of those great little empty villages. I found myself once again comparing the richer, slightly touristy towns that have buried all of their electrical wiring, to the smaller ones with their black strands of spaghetti hanging all over the place. There were also a few towns with most of the wires hidden but a few newer ones strung around, obviously waiting for the next update of the urban plan.... maybe in another 10 years.

The big skies of the scattered cumulo nimbus with big patches of blue are one of things that I have always associated with the backroads of vast French agricultural fields. It's just a shame that it's a bit too late for the scattered poppies that should be lining the asphalt.

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Re: More biking in the Brie region, France
« Reply #17 on Jun 15, 2011, 7:15pm »

Yay! Another great report from FMT. Just love it. You transport me to another place, I've said it before, but again, it really is like being there. You write so, so well, FMT, modest and funny and entertaining, educational and full of your own little insights, (your conversation with the village idiot bit made me laugh)

.

It's easy to envy you for your free riding ways and spirit, not to mention the beautiful towns surrounding where you live. Just idyllic. Thank you for sharing this with us. I have really enjoyed it.

Um...so when can I come over and go on one these little trips with you?

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Re: More biking in the Brie region, France
« Reply #18 on Jun 15, 2011, 8:16pm »

Most enjoyable riding with you FMT! What a great job - and Deyana's right, we should all be able to come along for the ride on a video. Imagine people running on their treadmills or riding stationary bikes in the gym. What option have they got now - only to listion to music on their iPods and stare out the window probaly at the traffic outside. How fantastic it would be if we could look at a screen in front of us and be right on the road with you!

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Re: More biking in the Brie region, France
« Reply #19 on Jun 15, 2011, 11:23pm »

Thanks again everyone for coming along for the ride. Sorry I haven't been around much lately but my mind has been on the business and my focus is elsewhere right now.

annie - Yeah, no chaume roofs in that town. You'd think with all the wheat and stuff that grows around there that the roofs would be covered in the stuff but no such luck. Enjoys the hols, as they say in the UK.

kerouac - You are an astute observer of electrical systems. I think one of these towns must have a job for you as town planner. When one is in such a flat landscape the sky takes on a whole new dimension. I know the landscape looks rather monotonous but it's interesting how the shades and tones of the crops change with the shifting light. I couldn't help but feel really bad for a lot of these farmers with the drought we've had. It's obvious things have bloomed early and some of the crops look underdeveloped. I noticed the lack of flowers that should have been there (I think).

deyana - I am feeling really bad for not having read your outstanding report. I promise I'm going to get to it this week. Thanks for commenting on my writing style but really I'm just a goofball and there's not a lot of depth in what I say whereas I really think that what you put down in your report is worthy of some sort of acclaim. I envy you and the others here who write so well. And I will definitely be posting this report on Sunny DS tomorrow. You are welcome to come here anytime and I'd be most happy to take you on a ride with me.

tod - I've never gotten people on treadmills and stationary bikes. Maybe they're working their bodies but they've forgotten about working their minds at the same time. Perhaps I should make videos and sell them to gyms. You might have just given me an idea. If I get rich off this I owe it all to you!

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Re: More biking in the Brie region, France
« Reply #20 on Jun 16, 2011, 12:04am »

Ahhhhh, that was so very enjoyable. I agree with everyone's comments! I think you may have been given a great idea for a workout video. I would ride a stationary bike in my house in winter time to you showing me around France as you do.

Delightful commentary and brillant photos FMT.

I love the light or robin egg blue paint on the shutters on a few of the homes.

Cheers,
Mich

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Re: More biking in the Brie region, France
« Reply #21 on Jun 16, 2011, 1:10am »

Yet another wonderful tour through the little towns of France. I'm having genuine difficulty thinking of a way I'd prefer to spend a day than more or less aimlessly biking around the French countryside like this. thanks for bottling up a little of the magic and sending it out through the tubes for our enjoyment. I'll be going off on a bike ride of my own now but it won't be half as picturesque.

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Re: More biking in the Brie region, France
« Reply #22 on Jun 16, 2011, 7:07am »

FMT - I had the idea for quite some time but if you can perfect something that is saleable, I wish you all the luck in the world. Getting a project like that started will need a person to register a Trade Mark or something to protect your idea - that is a very expensive thing to begin with.
I thought of the travel companies who take tourists on guided walks like the one I did through the Loire some years back. The forest walks were splendid.
One thing you must not do is have a shaky recording......someone could get sea-sick!

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Re: More biking in the Brie region, France
« Reply #23 on Jun 16, 2011, 7:22am »

Actually, once Google street view becomes a bit more fluid, it should be possible to cycle just about anywhere in the world on an exercise cycle from the comfort of your own home if somebody comes up with the proper interface. The airlines will go out of business. :-/

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Re: More biking in the Brie region, France
« Reply #24 on Jun 16, 2011, 11:00am »

Thanks, FMT. Look forward to it. And seeing your handsome face.

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frenchmystiquetour
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Re: More biking in the Brie region, France
« Reply #25 on Jun 16, 2011, 12:28pm »

mich - I've been trading e-mails with so many people I forgot when you are coming to France. Was it September? I'm sure we'll meet up and biking is always an option.

fumo - As I just mentioned to mich, you know I'm waiting for AnyPort members to come over here and do some biking with me. The only stipulation is that you have to buy FMT lunch!

tod - I'm really just having a little pipe dream. I'm sure people who sell those exercise cycles are already working on this concept. And as kerouac pointed out, once google street view has more coverage no one will ever leave their house.

kerouac - I imagine people will be wearing some sort of 3-D goggles and hook-up to street view.

deyana - I'll be waiting for you.

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Re: More biking in the Brie region, France
« Reply #26 on Jun 16, 2011, 3:58pm »

Our trip is coming up soon! Yeah, we will be there in September. Would be brilliant to meet you FMT. We should check our schedules to see if possible. I think Janet/Hawii is supposed to be visiting the same time, would be nice for a few of us to get together for a drink or meal if it is convenient for any of us!
Cheers,
Mich

Your photos have made me anxious to arrive!

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Re: More biking in the Brie region, France
« Reply #27 on Jun 16, 2011, 4:11pm »

Yes, Janet will be here in September. I think arriving around the 16th. I'm sure we can arrange a little get together.

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Re: More biking in the Brie region, France
« Reply #28 on Jun 16, 2011, 4:17pm »

We arrive on the 16th as well, hope we can, keep me notified.
Cheers,
Mich

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Re: More biking in the Brie region, France
« Reply #29 on Jun 16, 2011, 5:51pm »

Where's Kerouac?
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