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Post by Deleted on Sept 27, 2009 10:08:49 GMT
With autumn firmly established in Paris, I felt that it was time to make a return trip to the Mouzaïa area to see what was happening with all of the flourishing vegetation. This time I started with Place Rhin-et-Danube. You may recall that it was planted with pansies when I last visited. Well, the pansies gave way to lots of other things over the summer. You don't need a calendar to know the season when the garden begins to look like this. But I find that it has a certain nostalgic charm and shows that we had a very nice summer this year. Before long, the municipal gardeners will come and remove all of this and turn over the soil. I suspect that chrysanthemums will make an appearance next. The "villa" alleyways were as charming as ever, with still some flowers but also lots of fruit, berries and seeds all over the various plants. I saw some unusual flowers that I had never seen before, but also some old favorites like honeysuckle. The usual guardians of the area were doing their morning surveillance, but they allowed me to appreciate just looking at the little details of this delightful neighborhood again. Before returning home, I made one last little stop at the top end of the Parc des Buttes Chaumont, just a couple of blocks away and peered over the wall to see what there was to see.... I'll be returning to the Buttes Chaumont next weekend, because it is one of the main locations of the Nuit Blanche this year. Perhaps there will be some photos worth taking.
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Post by lagatta on Sept 27, 2009 12:20:49 GMT
Oh, those are lovely. I'd love to live there. (It isn't quite as hard to get to as La Campagne à Paris). Love the sign for the old charity, l'oeuvre de la bouchée de pain - imagine that provided bread at a low price for working-class families?
The people doing Tai Chi (or a similar discipline) in Buttes Chaumont is a charming shot as well. Are the ugly white tower blocks behind Place des Fêtes or in a suburb outside the périph - I'm slightly disoriented, though I love les Buttes and the little gazebo atop its heights.
You probably think of Buttes-Chaumont photos as touristic, but a lot of tourists don't get that far into the northeast.
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Post by bixaorellana on Sept 27, 2009 15:12:24 GMT
I'm in heaven! You've completely captured that wonderfully blowzy exuberance as late summer careens into autumn. And showing what's planted by the municipality and the populace truly speaks of the sensibility of a city.
That third-to-the-last shot, with the vines spilling over the cliff, could be a movie shot of the demise of man and the return of his cities to the natural world.
What a treat to see passionflowers & fruit, figs, and bignonia spreading their subtropical splendor amongst more northern beauties such as grapevines and Japanese maple.
Thanks for this. It was a delightful view of autumn for someone like me who never gets to enjoy that season.
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Post by lola on Sept 27, 2009 16:00:46 GMT
Beautiful.
Around here, the goldfinches would have eaten most of those sunflower seeds by now. My grapes looked like the top two six weeks ago, and now the birds mostly have eaten them, too.
"blowzy exhuberance" Love it. Les mots justes.
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Post by tod2 on Sept 28, 2009 18:31:10 GMT
A wonderful stroll around a secret part of Paris - Once again a big thank you Kerouac! I recognised the following flowers that you may not know the name of:
Photo 2/3/4/5/6: The pansies had given way to Zineas, a few sunflowers, and the yellow daisy-looking flowers lower down are Coriopsis ( which I have plenty of in my garden). The white daisy-looking flowers are Cosmos (These are seen in large field-like patches mainly in pink and red and alongside the long freeways, in certain months in South Africa). I also spotted some lovely ruby red Dahlias here and there.
Then came photos of the trumpet-like flower of Begnonia Cherrera in all it's deep pink glory!
Next I recognised the unusual white and mauve flower of the Granadilla vine ( which creeps all over my neighbors trees).
Besides the lovely grapevines I also see you caught sight of the purple (weed) we call Morning Glory. Here it appears at random in our gardens and alongside the roads and little streams, grabbing hold of anything and everything it comes in contact with!
Thanks again Kerouac for a lovely autumn day in Paris! How I wish I was there......................
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Post by lola on Sept 29, 2009 3:21:17 GMT
It really is good of you to take us all to Paris, Kerouac. We can gawk at it without clogging the sidewalks and Metro exits.
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Post by fumobici on Sept 29, 2009 4:18:27 GMT
I was trying to ID all the plants too I've grown maybe half of them, and remember the names of perhaps a quarter Beautiful tour of another corner of Paris even people who have been there many times probably don't know of. Fall light is photogenic with it's low angle, long shadows and golden cast.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 29, 2009 11:05:10 GMT
Someone on another site found this excellent architectural walk (in French) on the Paris municipal website. There are also numerous other walks proposed for everywhere in the city.
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Post by lagatta on Sept 29, 2009 11:42:11 GMT
Wonderful! There really is a wealth of info on the Paris city site. I like the information about the old HBM (Habitations à bon marché) in the area. The quality of much social housing of the era, not only in Paris but also in Vienna, Amsterdam and many other cities, is truly exemplary. I know a fellow from Florence, retired now, who was brought up in una casa popolare in his native town, and his elderly mum still lived there with another relative. Solid building, large airy rooms. He said they hadn't learnt to built cheap crap yet back then. I doubt the Parisian HBM were quite as spacious but they were certainly beautifully built.
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Post by Louise on Oct 6, 2009 18:57:11 GMT
These are just lovely photos. I like that it started out with just you and the cats enjoying the morning, and then the glimpse of the people doing tai chi reminded me that the city is full of people.
One of the plants, Ampelopsis, which gets beautiful turquoise, purple, and bright blue berries in the fall, is a woodland pest in the US. I planted one before I knew that and had to pull it out.
I'm glad you posted this link on a travel website I frequent because your photos are so worthwhile. I was surprised that the response there wasn't as appreciative as it should be. Please continue to post there.
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Post by auntieannie on Oct 7, 2009 12:26:04 GMT
Thank you, K! the perfect lunchtime break feast for the eyes.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 4, 2010 18:50:50 GMT
I'm sorry, I couldn't help myself. This morning I returned to La Mouzaïa for a brief visit to see summer waning, even if it has a couple of weeks left. I really like Place Rhin et Danube where the Danube metro station is. The central square is pleasantly scruffy and not at all like most of the manicured Parisian gardens; I looked at much of what I have enjoyed before, but I tried to take a few photos of new areas. Today was a warm and sunny day, but something made it feel later in the season, as though outdoor meals had already ended for this year. Even Paris has parasites to chew holes in leaves. I just really enjoy the Mouzaïa.
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Post by frenchmystiquetour on Sept 4, 2010 21:33:25 GMT
I was here about a month ago and made several videos riding up and down all the alleys and then my computer crashed and I lost them all. Haven't found the time to go re-shoot them but when I do I'll add them to this thread.
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Post by Jazz on Sept 4, 2010 21:33:30 GMT
Beautiful! Fall is my favorite season and I wish so much that I had found this area when I was there. Your photos are the next best thing and it is a sensual exploration…the unique fall light and the momentary essence of beauty, not perfect or in ‘in unsullied bloom’, but arresting and seductive.
I love all of the photos, and of the most recent, the one of the table with the stuffed animals enjoying a nap, the three windows in varying sizes, and the final shot of Japanese lanterns? The delicate colors and shapes are stunning.
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Post by fumobici on Sept 5, 2010 1:37:29 GMT
These new photos are as wonderful as last year's. It's always a pleasant surprise to find an area that feels like a real neighborhood in a big urban area. This reminds me of parts of Seattle, Portland and SF that kind of quietly hide within the cities, it looks like a place where real people can simply enjoy life.
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Post by lagatta on Sept 5, 2010 21:46:03 GMT
Such lovely, almost hidden gems. The small hotel (Hôtel Rhin et Danube) on the square has an interesting feature - each room has a small kitchenette, which is a saving for cheapo travellers and those who don't necessarily like eating out three times a day. There is also a simple café-restaurant next door. I don't know where one would shop nearby. Of course Place des Fêtes market is not very far but - I'd think the walk would be all uphill to La Mouzaïa? HOTEL RHIN ET DANUBE Dans ce coin provincial du 19 ème arrondissement, l’hôtel Rhin et Danube est idéal pour des séjours prolongés, seul ou en famille. Il dispose de 16 petits appartements au confort moderne et équipés de kitchenettes. Appréciable si vous ne pouvez pas prévoir de dîners à l’extérieur tous les jours. L’hôtel est situé dans le quartier Mouzaïa, ancien secteur ouvrier qui aujourd’hui, avec ses allées calmes et ses petites maisons, attire les parisiens en quête de campagne. A deux pas du magnifique parc des Buttes Chaumont et des nombreuses activités de La Villette, vous accédez rapidement en métro ou en bus au centre de Paris. Allez boire un verre ou vous offrir un repas dans le petit rade du quartier, le Café parisien situé sur la place Rhin et Danube. Un lieu sans prétention où les habitués trinquent chaleureusement à la terrasse ou autour du zinc. Belleville, Ménilmontant and Charonne Ermitage Hôtel 42bis rue de l'Ermitage, 20e tel 01.46.36.23.44, fax 01.46.36.89.13. A clean and decent cheapie, close to the leafy rue des Pyrénées with its provincial feel. M° Jourdain. Under €30. Hôtel Pyrénées-Gambetta 12 av du Père-Lachaise, 20e tel 01.47.97.76.57, fax 01.47.97.17.61. On a quiet road and luxurious for this part of town, yet unpretentious and very pleasant. All rooms with cable TV. M° Gambetta. €40–55 Hôtel Rhin et Danube 3 pl Rhin-et-Danube, 19e tel 01.42.45.10.13, fax 01.42.06.88.82, www.gaf.tm.fr. Studio apartments with small kitchenettes geared to the self-catering and located northeast of the city centre, near the entrance to the Parc de la Villette on the airy heights of Belleville. Good value. M° Danube. €55–70 The website is just some kind of agency selling unrented hotel rooms; there are many such businesses. Sometimes they have good deals. Here's another article (in French) about La Mouzaïa: www.axelibre.org/open_yur_mind/paris_beauregard.phpParis métro map of the area: ratp.info/Pivi/proxi.php?exec=proxi&cmd=LexicoStation&Recherche%5BSaisie%5D=Danube&x=604151&y=2431524&Profil=RATP_HOME
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Post by Deleted on Jan 16, 2013 13:14:41 GMT
Riding the #75 bus today (Pont Neuf to Porte de Pantin), I passed Place Rhin-et-Danube, totally barren and frosted with some of yesterday's snow (which stuck on grass but not on the pavement). Unfortunately, we were going too fast for me to get a photo, but I really hope to get back there for a comparison with this picture.
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Post by htmb on Jan 17, 2013 1:19:37 GMT
Beautiful photos, Kerouac. This is a part of Paris I have yet to explore. I need to add it to my list.
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Post by mossie on Jan 17, 2013 8:10:13 GMT
You really MUST visit this area htmb, to find a whole different Paris from the classy rue Cler or Av Montaigne . I am going again in March and would love to be your guide ;D
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Post by htmb on Jan 17, 2013 11:21:45 GMT
Oh, Mossie, that would be absolutely delightful! Thank you so much for the offer to be my guide. Unfortunately, work and family responsibilities prevent me from going back to Paris until mid-June at the earliest.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 20, 2013 23:07:07 GMT
And so here is the promised snow photo for comparison.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 20, 2013 23:09:51 GMT
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Post by htmb on Jan 21, 2013 6:11:54 GMT
Enchanting!
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Post by mossie on Jan 21, 2013 9:01:27 GMT
Thanks for your dedication to take these snowy pics, looks like Paris has had as much as we have.
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Post by tod2 on Jan 21, 2013 9:56:45 GMT
It's beautiful in summer, it's beautiful in autumn, and it's even more beautiful in winter snow! Thanks for going back to capture it all so wonderfully
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Post by Deleted on Jan 21, 2013 11:15:21 GMT
And today, Paris is the city of black slush, but it is not very photogenic!
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Post by htmb on Jul 10, 2013 2:37:40 GMT
Now that I've been here in the summer I'd like to experience the other seasons, too!
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