|
|
Post by Deleted on Aug 29, 2010 20:06:35 GMT
One would think that I would get bored with this sooner or later, but I don't think I have missed a single Ganesha festival since the first one in Paris 15 years ago. Actually, if it were at the other side of town, probably I would have, but since it is on my street and completely surrounds my building at various times of the day, it is kind of hard for me to miss. And I love it. And it keeps changing, little by little. For one thing, it is bigger and bigger every year and is now of impressive importance. The biggest change this year was that the temple has moved. It used to be only 100 meters from my place, but now it is more like 400 meters. Big change! So I walked down the street this morning to the new temple. Festivities are scheduled to begin at 11 a.m. but I have learned through experience that people are so enthusiastic that it starts before the appointed time.  Unfortunately, I have no interest at all in religion, so I don't know all of the things that I should know about this event. For example, I don't have the slightest idea if the local community takes this seriously or not, or if it is just a fun event for 90% of them, like Christmas for 90% of the French. The younger ones (under the age of 25 and born and raised in Paris for the most part) clearly are not spiritually involved at all. They are busy talking on their mobile phones or texting, when they are not chatting up members of the opposite sex. The fact that they all speak French to each other with Parisian accents would seem to indicate that the French assimilation machine is working. Most of them are willing to play "dress-up" at least one day a year (and also probably at weddings and other family events), but this is not their life at all. They are pleasing their parents and grandparents (most of the grandparents are still in the Old Country, but a few have been brought to France). Anyway, the first place in my back street is the Indian restaurant where I order a delivery meal once or twice a year. I don't know why I do it so rarely. Oh, yes I do. I absolutely despise having food delivered to my place, even though it is excellent and I want it more frequently. But having food delivered is an affront to my own personal moral values. No, I can't really explain why. And the next place along the street is an old traditional hardware store, taken over by Sri Lankan immigrants. The ladies stood in front of boxes of plaster and cans of bug spray. The new temple is very nice. I put some photos of it at the end of my report on last year's procession in case you want to get a look at it. (I will add a link later.) It is behind the tent in the background of this photo. There was already a considerable crowd, and the actual participants in the procession had probably arrived much earlier. The many sellers of jasmin garlands were starting their very busy day. People were impatient to get started even though it was only 10:30. (to be continued) |
|
|
|
Post by Deleted on Aug 29, 2010 20:21:34 GMT
Time to get going, dammit! It must have been about a quarter to eleven. The procession began. Last year was the first appearance of what my extreme ignorance causes me to mentally call "the Mexican hat dancers." This year, there was an "addition" to their presence. Their headpieces were filled with milk (poured from a totally normal Tetrapak supermarket carton), and they swirled around in milky ecstasy. Maybe next year they will also have honey dripping off them to represent the land of milk and honey? (to be continued) |
|
|
|
Post by bixaorellana on Aug 29, 2010 21:50:47 GMT
Hooray ~~ the Ganesha festival is back and once again Kerouac succumbs to its colorful, exotic charms! For example, I don't have the slightest idea if the local community takes this seriously or not, or if it is just a fun event for 90% of them I doubt you'll ever find out for sure. In that way it reminds me of Day of the Dead -- so interwoven into the culture here, but so open to individual interpretation. How nifty that you got the procession forming up. It makes a great intro to all the movement in the subsequent pictures. Are all those men with their arms in the air dancing? (the ones in the pics right after the severe-looking women with the tall poles) The men look happy. Your talent at capturing "random portraits" is certainly at work here, plus you got some raving beauties of both genders. More! More! |
|
|
|
Post by hwinpp on Aug 30, 2010 2:23:43 GMT
Where was Ganesh hiding? Or will he appear later?
|
|
|
|
Post by ilbonito on Aug 30, 2010 7:32:50 GMT
I would loved to have seen that. I love incongruous ethnic festivals. Apparently 500,000 people turned up to the Brazilian SAmba Carnival in Tokyo this past weekend too...
|
|
|
|
Post by Deleted on Aug 30, 2010 17:34:21 GMT
Are all those men with their arms in the air dancing? (the ones in the pics right after the severe-looking women with the tall poles) The men look happy. The men in blue are playing musical instruments and others are dancing. The horsemen were horsing around. They made their first appearance in last year's procession. But the tiger was here for the first time! I always love the camphor ladies with the fire on their head. They remain really concentrated because they are not allowed to screw up. As the years pass, not all of the costumed participants are of Indian subcontinent ethnicity. |
|
|
|
Post by Deleted on Aug 30, 2010 17:58:59 GMT
I confess that I frankly did not pay much attention to the peacock feather dancers this year, because I have overdone them in the past. But here are some carrying their wooden frames along between dances. The actual Ganesh chariot follows the peacock dancers. It is underwhelming, but helping to pull it along is clearly one of the most prestigious activities in the procession. The ladies' chariot follows Ganesh. The various commerces awaited their blessings and the breaking of the coconuts. I was amused that the Hell's Angels headquarters had become part of the decorations in spite of their reputation of not being particularly ethnic-friendly. |
|
|
|
Post by lagatta on Aug 30, 2010 19:20:50 GMT
Nothing to do with the festival, but I never order in food either.
Lovely pics again.
|
|
|
|
Post by Deleted on Aug 30, 2010 19:32:30 GMT
It was the usual joyous mishmash of festiveness, anarchy and advertising. People love to look from their balconies or out of their windows. The shopkeepers are all open for business while they wait for the procession, but they are not really doing much business. |
|
|
|
Post by fumobici on Aug 30, 2010 20:14:52 GMT
What a feast for the eyes! I'd love to see this in person, to be immersed in its midst.
Thank you again K2 for sharing this.
|
|
|
|
Post by Deleted on Aug 31, 2010 5:14:51 GMT
When you were a child, do you remember the days you spent suffering wearing your "Sunday best"? It's the same everywhere in the world. |
|
|
|
Post by Jazz on Aug 31, 2010 6:27:54 GMT
Joyous! I was never in Paris at the time of this festival, but I understand your excitement. The ritual, each year, must be welcoming, with rich memories. I doubt that I would ever tire of it. Your photos are of the moment and special. Your other Ganesha threads are superb and I hope that you post the links to put it all into perspective. I love the children in their 'Sunday best.' But, most of all, I love the total sensuality of the day. Merci.
|
|
|
|
Post by Deleted on Aug 31, 2010 16:55:48 GMT
Actually, this year I was wondering if the procession route would be altered, because the main 'Indian' street is being redone. It is all dug up to widen the sidewalks, make a new bus lane and remove the parking spaces, and it is nowhere near finished yet. But this probably makes it more like a normal street in India  so no problem! Actually, the 3rd or 4th year of the procession, the mayor of the 10th arrondissement did not give authorization for the procession to enter his territory. He had apparently received some serious complaints about 'disturbing the peace' or some such. The problem is, more of the concerned commerces are in the 10th arrondissement than in the 18th arrondissement (where the procession was confined that year). There must have been a major public outcry against the ban, because from the next year on, the route returned to its original itinerary. Anyway, next year the street will be excellent, and there will even be trees on one side of it. Back to the festivities! All of the ladies, Indian or not, want to wear garlands of jasmin. |
|
|
|
Post by Deleted on Aug 31, 2010 19:39:24 GMT
It was unfortunately a bit too breezy for rue Cail to be as splendid as usual with its pastel cotton prints. The wind had twisted them up a bit. All of the food shops and restaurants distribute free food and drink to the crowd. I got two cans of Mirinda Orange from this guy. They are in my refrigerator waiting for a desperate moment, perhaps in six months. Other beverages are a bit odd. I would see even many of the Indians sip them and then place their cups carefully in the gutter. These nice shiny pots had some sort of slimy liquid in them with poppy seeds floating on the surface. This was probably milk and rose syrup in the plastic garbage bin. Time for a little interlude of portraits! |
|
|
|
Post by bixaorellana on Aug 31, 2010 20:19:50 GMT
So, have you been assigned your place in next year's procession ~~ peacock feather dancer? puller of the Ganesha chariot? whirly splashy milk dancer? Maybe they'll let you be Tiger Man!
Seriously, this is such a wonderful thing and like all festivals of its kind, not ever exactly the same.
What is the significance of all the participants being barefooted? That might have been downright dangerous near the broken coconuts. And do you know the significance of breaking them?
I keep going back to look at the pictures ~~ the swirls of color, exotic happenings, dressed-up kids, happy or bemused spectators ............. you really made it feel like being there.
Thanks for Ganesha-ing for us!
|
|
|
|
Post by Deleted on Aug 31, 2010 20:24:15 GMT
Okay, this has gotten boring and I can see you yawning, so I'll try to wrap this up. The Red Cross volunteers were ready as usual to intervene in case anything happened. In 15 years, I have never seen a problem, but it is good that they are there, at least in case of beverage poisoning. The procession kept up its usual fervor. Now they are on my street! Yay! But not enough Indian shops as far as I am concerned. People continued to peer out of their windows. There was still plenty to see. I absolutely love it when my busy, loud street is closed to traffic. As the procession approached my building, there was one thing left to do. Run upstairs to my place and get my traditional shots from above! Even though the main procession continues from my intersection on to another sector of the 18th arrondissement where there is a major Sri Lankan settlement, a lot of the people stand in front of my building to eat, because they are famished after 3 hours of marching. It is getting close to 14:00 by now. In fact, my intersection remains the main gathering place all afternoon, because the procession comes back about an hour later and goes up the side street back to the temple. In the final photos, you can see that the Africans are also gathering to go to the Ramadan prayers in their mosque on the same street. I love my neighborhood! |
|
|
|
Post by Deleted on Aug 31, 2010 20:31:37 GMT
What is the significance of all the participants being barefooted? That might have been downright dangerous near the broken coconuts. And do you know the significance of breaking them? I keep going back to look at the pictures ~~ the swirls of color, exotic happenings, dressed-up kids, happy or bemused spectators ............. you really made it feel like being there. Thanks for Ganesha-ing for us! Believers must be barefoot to be in spiritual contact with the world. A big tank truck which I did not photograph proceeds the procession to purify the pavement by sprinkling saffron water. At each coconut event, there are helpers with brooms to clear the way before the procession continues. Coconuts represent the world and breaking them symbolizes the fragility of the universe. Anybody who wants to see last year's photos ("same same but different" as they say in Thailand) can see them here as well as some photos of the new temple on page 2. |
|
|
|
Post by mickthecactus on Sept 1, 2010 12:50:36 GMT
Amazing pictures K. I hadn't appreciated that there was such a big Indian community in your part of the world.
|
|
|
|
Post by Deleted on Sept 1, 2010 13:20:40 GMT
I just wish the more visitors to Paris would stray from the center and discover some of the rest of the city. It is a lot more surprising and diverse than a lot of people imagine.
|
|
|
|
Post by mickthecactus on Sept 1, 2010 13:45:14 GMT
I just wish the more visitors to Paris would stray from the center and discover some of the rest of the city. It is a lot more surprising and diverse than a lot of people imagine. I'm a big art deco fan K. Any suggestions as to where to go, markets in particular? |
|
|
|
Post by Deleted on Sept 1, 2010 19:57:10 GMT
Art deco objects? The best place to go is still the Puces de Saint Ouen. I made a photo report about it this spring, and you might find some items of interest in it. |
|
|
|
Post by mickthecactus on Sept 2, 2010 15:36:16 GMT
Thanks Kerouac - just read it right through. Just what I wanted.
When money allows we'll hop on Eurostar and visit.
|
|
|
|
Post by frenchmystiquetour on Sept 6, 2010 18:01:19 GMT
The next time there is going to be some sort of cool street event in Paris how about posting before it happens so the culturally oblivious among us who might like to attend just such an event will have the opportunity?
|
|
|
|
Post by auntieannie on Sept 6, 2010 18:51:05 GMT
Now I want some southern Indian food and there is none available here!
|
|
|
|
Post by koloagirl on Aug 20, 2011 18:33:36 GMT
Aloha from Kaua'i! ;D Wonderful photo essay "Kerouac2"!!! Mahalo (thanks) so very much for sharing with us! I don't know a lot about the Indian culture in terms of gods and godesses, but isn't Ganesh the elephant god? I should ask my friend, who is a Zen student (hence my introduction to Maison Zen, where we stay in Paris) and who goes on retreats to various ashram in India every year - he is also caucasian and I think it is wonderful to see so many people of varying ethnicities enjoying festivals together - I know I'd make a point to go if I was in Paris at that time! The jasmine adornments are so amazing - here in Hawai'i jasmine is called "pikake" and is highly, highly prized as a lei - the scent is absolutely intoxicating and is my personal favorite as far as lei - so to see so many people in your photo essay wearing "pikake" makes me almost able to smell it - so amazing! Living someplace that has a big mix of various cultures, I can really appreciated cultural festivals such as the one you are showing - I just think it is wonderful to see everyone enjoying themselves with no problems and the colors are so vivid and colorful - you really get a sense of what it is like to see your pictures - just amazing! Once more - mahalo for sharing - since this is now a year later - I'm assuming you will be covering the 2011 version? I hope so! Malama Pono, Janet |
|
|
|
Post by auntieannie on Aug 20, 2011 20:17:07 GMT
koloa girl, yes Ganesha is the elephant god. The god of students/studies. the remover of obstacles. he is very popular.
|
|
|
|
Post by nycgirl on Aug 20, 2011 21:02:01 GMT
Love this thread. Very colorful, evocative photos. This festival looks like a fun time. I'm glad Koloagirl commented or else I might not have noticed it.
|
|
|
|
Post by auntieannie on Aug 20, 2011 21:34:18 GMT
|
|
|
|
Post by Deleted on Aug 20, 2011 21:38:21 GMT
|
|
|
|
Post by sojoh on Aug 22, 2011 10:48:48 GMT
K2, Thanks for sharing the information about the upcoming Ganesha Festival on TA. I know where I'll be next weekend! We've lived in a few countries with large Indian populations, so I'm looking forward to seeing this celebration in Paris...and to eating some Indian food.
Did you ever drink your two cans of Mirinda Orange from 2010?
|
|
so no problem!
