|
Post by bixaorellana on Dec 21, 2010 8:06:57 GMT
Let's see what I can show you this year that isn't exactly like what's in last year's Feliz Navidad thread. We'll start off the same, in the Abastos market with all the Spanish moss, bromeliads, and other living things for sale to adorn the "nacimientos" -- nativity scenes. There are masses of sugar cane for sale, too. Great quantities will go into all the ponche made this time of year for the posadas. When you say "it's beginning to look a lot like Christmas" here, it doesn't mean snow. All over town, even on the roadsides, piñatas are being sold, and it's bright, sunny, and warm. That's enough market, as I don't want this to be a repeat of last year.
|
|
|
Post by bixaorellana on Dec 21, 2010 8:20:01 GMT
Yesterday, Sunday, I went downtown hoping to see some good nativity scenes. We have a new governor, and I was eager to see what the decorations in the zócalo would be. It's the same unimaginative massing of poinsettias as last year. This was disconcerting -- not a nice Christmas message, and in English, to boot ~ There were scads of people in the zócalo -- in the cafes around the square, both down ~ and up ~ and pretty much anywhere there was a place to perch in the square ~ I trot around looking for the big municipal nativity scene. In past years there have been some wonderful ones featuring figures by local artisans. Last year's was dinky and dull. What will it be this year? Uh, whatever it is, it's not finished. Is that the man with the plan? Is there a plan?
|
|
|
Post by bixaorellana on Dec 21, 2010 8:24:55 GMT
At least the shepherd's will be well housed ~ When willst I be placéd on high to give tidings of comfort and joy? At least the dangerous animals are behind bars ~ Although the sheep might be in danger from this guy ~ Patience is a virtue ~ There's a cud-chewing grin ~
|
|
|
Post by bixaorellana on Dec 21, 2010 8:34:34 GMT
I continue on around the square ~ These marimba players are regaling the patrons at this café ~ They must not have garnered much in tips, as they confab ~ then go off to find new patrons ~ Mylar balloons, the true symbol of Oaxaca ~
|
|
|
Post by bjd on Dec 21, 2010 8:50:31 GMT
I saw in the first café picture that there a lots of tourists. Is it because of the time of year? Is Oaxaca a popular tourist destination?
The balloons and toys look like those sold in Ecuador at Easter.
|
|
|
Post by bixaorellana on Dec 21, 2010 9:06:12 GMT
So far, nothing different and exciting. I leave the zócalo to cross over to the Alameda, the big area in front of the cathedral. On the way I pass the side door of the Marqués del Valle hotel ~ I also slip into the side door of the cathedral (& take lots of pictures, which I'll show in another thread). They do have a nativity scene, although it's not so hot ~ Well, here we are in the Alameda, where there are more poinsettias ~ The vendors are out in force all over. Hats seem to be big this year ~ But wait -- I hear music. Peering up Garcia Vigil street, I can see activity and the sun gleaming off brass instruments. Walking toward it, I'm suddenly right in the middle of couples merrily dancing down the street toward the cathedral ~ Some interesting figures in their entourage! I join the crowd following them to the Alameda ~
|
|
|
Post by bixaorellana on Dec 21, 2010 9:24:31 GMT
These people are proudly displaying their cultura Yalalteca ~~ their traditions from Yalálag, in the Sierra Norte of Oaxaca. I'm particularly interested in this since I used to live in a tiny colonia of Oaxaca founded and populated by people from there. Perhaps we'll run into them again later today. They've gone dancing up the street again. I want to take a walk up Alcalá, the tourist pedestrian street. Glancing down Calle Independencia as I leave the Alameda, I'm reminded again of how very many churches there are in Oaxaca ~ Since the dancers are on Alcalá right now, I'll go up the parallel street of Garcia Vigil, which is also interesting, with this jolly group in front of a restaurant ~ and the cops prepared for any eventuality ~
|
|
|
Post by bixaorellana on Dec 21, 2010 9:37:04 GMT
These are hanging over every corner of the zócalo and on the streets radiating from it ~ As I cross over to Alcalá, I see that Pizza Rustica looks quite festive ~ I love the old colonial building where this nice restaurant is located ~ It's also the home of wonderful Amate Books ~ Every year Alcalá gets more touristy and more upscale. There are some interesting places that elegantly represent the culture here, though, such as Los Danzantes restaurant and the lovely building in which it's housed ~ I have so much more to show you, but it's terribly late and I have to go to bed. Please check back in later.
|
|
|
Post by lola on Dec 21, 2010 16:06:27 GMT
Rays of sunshine pierce the clouds here in the snowy north, tidings of color and joy.
|
|
|
Post by lola on Dec 21, 2010 16:08:31 GMT
En otras palabras, Thank You Bixa!
|
|
|
Post by bixaorellana on Dec 21, 2010 16:26:17 GMT
As I go further up the street, there are all kinds of activities going on or heating up. On the way up I passed a promised concert by the Seventh Day Adventists, along with the threat of more poinsettias ~ and further down the street there is a book fair. Here we are at Sto. Domingo ~ Some preparations are taking place by the low walls fronting the church's plaza ~ The wall of the old convent is beautiful in the afternoon light ~ There is a pavilion set up next to the wall, and performers milling about, but no event so far ~ Now I'm by the steps up to the plaza of Carmen Alta. There are stands selling stuff and I can hear activity and announcements above. Wanna t-shirt?
|
|
|
Post by mickthecactus on Dec 21, 2010 16:33:50 GMT
The colours! The Agaves................ ;D
Great stuff as ever Bixa.
|
|
|
Post by bixaorellana on Dec 21, 2010 16:58:47 GMT
The plaza of Carmen Alto runs between Alcalá and the parallel street of Garcia Vigil, which is higher than Alcalá. On the walkway to the top, there these industrious ladies ~ I have found the rest of the Yalalteco event! From the announcements, it appears the dancing is about to begin. I've long been ambivalent about this square, which was beautiful and well-used when I moved here. Then an extended renovation took place, involving chasing off the vendors, grubbing out mature trees, a long period of dirt piles and exposed roots, with a glaring moonscape as the final result. Today, with people, mellow afternoon light, and blooming mesquite trees, it's quite pleasant ~ Wonderful shadows ~ But let's see the dance ~
|
|
|
Post by Deleted on Dec 21, 2010 17:49:55 GMT
All sorts of wonderful and colorful things, and plants that make us forget that it is winter. Are poinsettias native plants? I would imagine that they are.
It is such pleasure to see people having fun in a nice looking city when most of what the media has been giving us about Mexico is decomposing bodies lying in ditches or piles of severed heads.
I would hope that this is the "real" Mexico.
|
|
|
Post by bixaorellana on Dec 21, 2010 18:01:13 GMT
Thanks so much for the kind comments. I hope you all check back in, as there is more to show. Bjd, yes, Oaxaca is a major tourist destination for people from all over the world and from Mexico as well. Also, these pictures were taken on Sunday, when the locals get out and about. I really don't know if it would ever be possible to sell all those balloons, though. Yes, Kerouac, the poinsettia is native to Mexico. And also yes, this is the Mexico I know and love. So far, knock wood, the drug wars are something distant that I read about in the news. I've never seen nor heard of these dancers before, and so far am unable to find the story behind them. I love the costumes and movements, so here's a little more, in the form of a short slide show ~ Frankly, if I didn't know this group was from Yalálag, which is an extremely traditional place, the costumes would make me think it was some kind of tourist dance troop. The masks are intriguing, with their almost exaggerated European features. I did find this amusing insight into the theme of some of the dances. Well, time to move on. I pass the worker bee ladies again on the way out ~
|
|
|
Post by bixaorellana on Dec 21, 2010 18:18:32 GMT
There is a Mexican products fair on the street, with painfully loud announcements. Nothing speaks to me, although I sort of wish I had the money with me to buy one of these bigger trucks as a magazine rack. This is a real Mexican craft, and you can see country people standing by the sides of highways all over the country selling these very nicely made wooden trucks ~ The de rigueur dulces regionales stand ~ I retrace my steps down Alcalá, back to the zócalo. I wonder if the nativity scene has progressed. Many of the sights along the way are to be seen all year, not just at Christmas ~ This weary lady is selling her little bits while also trying to take care of her children ~ And in rather extreme contrast, this display is in a sleek, upscale shopping patio in a colonial building ~ although the poor are not completely forgotten ~
|
|
|
Post by bixaorellana on Dec 21, 2010 18:41:33 GMT
Along the way, I run into the three wise men. Hi, guys~ Nice duds, but I really love how the mariachi dress ~ One of the many vendors from the state of Guerrero, selling his paintings ~ Alert for our protection ~ Looking down the cross street to the lovely Teatro Macedonio Alcalá ~ Here's some imposing building detail ~ And, back at the zócalo, I discover that Bethlehem was not built in a day ~ These denizens of the holy land would really like to follow yon wandering star ~ Here's an angel we have heard on high ~ amid the non-wandering, but very pretty stars ~ It appears I will have to return another day to see the finished town. No matter, the big treat that is coming up on the 23rd is the fabled night of the radishes. Stay tuned!
|
|
|
Post by mich64 on Dec 21, 2010 22:32:00 GMT
Night of the Radishes, oh I am intrigued!
The three wise men have outstanding costumes, impressive. I too, also like the mariachi costumes. Great pictures Bix. Really enjoying this thread. Interesting to learn the culture of your region and how it celebrates Christmas. Cheers! Mich
|
|
|
Post by bjd on Dec 22, 2010 7:04:05 GMT
Great pictures, Bixa. They do seem rather slow with their nativity scene though. Maybe it will stay up until well into January? Are there festivities for Epiphany too? Egad! You have mimes! In Oaxaca! I thought they were limited to wealthy countries. I am assuming, of course, that the 3 Wise Guys are mimes.
|
|
|
Post by Don Cuevas on Dec 22, 2010 11:35:58 GMT
|
|
|
Post by tod2 on Dec 22, 2010 13:09:18 GMT
What a superb insight into Mexican life around Christmastime Bixa! It is fascinating and together with Kerouac's photos of Christmas in Paris, make me feel as though the whole world is celebrating except us. Our street decorations are the exact same every year - only more light bulbs missing. Very few folks around our residential area have put up any form of Christmas lights and if they have, they are well away from the roadside. I tried to string colourful lights along my fence 2 years ago and they were stolen with 2 days! This morning I made a further dash to a supermarket in a little village called Hilton. The shopping centre has always had massive decorations adorning every roof, gutter and pillar but not one iota this year! The place looks positively Christmasy dead I think I'm long overdue for a trip to Singapore where I know the colourful streets are just raining down bright lights! ( and oh yes, it will probably be raining...) Thanks again Bixa for doing a wonderful job introducing your part of the world to us at Christmas!! Happy holidays
|
|
|
Post by fumobici on Dec 22, 2010 16:08:34 GMT
DC, what sort of mushrooms are those on the pizza? They don't look quite like the bog standard Agaricus bisporus. Do they have any interesting local culinary mushrooms there available in the markets?
|
|
|
Post by bixaorellana on Dec 22, 2010 18:17:41 GMT
Mich, thanks for your always encouraging comments. It's lovely the way you really read and look at everyone's threads. You will actually be seeing afternoon of the radishes. The event is so popular that it's practically an unmoving throng at night. I used to work downtown, and it was nice to go down when the radish carvers (yes, you heard right) were still working and setting up. Thank you so much, Bjd. Yeah, I don't hold out great hopes for a really good nativity scene. All the statues and stuff are so small, compared to what is needed for that space. Looks at though there will be lots of duplication of main players, too. Speaking of which, Three Kings Day is big here, although the December 25 mania from the US is making steady inroads. So yes, all of this stuff will be around until Epiphany. I think I heard the Wise Guys ( ;D) speak as I passed, so maybe they're not mimes. Mimes, praise be, are pretty rare. You do see those "living statues" from time to time, and clowns are quite common. As I passed, I heard this guy drop his clown persona when the little boy said he was afraid of clowns. He very sweetly told the boy that clowns were nice to everyone and there was nothing to be afraid of. Tod, even though I love seeing the light displays all over neighborhoods when I'm in the US, it's easy to be ambivalent about the whole Christmas consumerism thing. Is the economy suffering where you are? Maybe the merchants don't feel able to invest in holiday goods or the electricity to run light displays when their costumers are struggling to buy the basics. That said, yes ~~ you neeeeed to go to Singapore! ;D Thank you for your kind comments and happy holidays to you, too.
|
|
|
Post by Kimby on Dec 22, 2010 19:14:46 GMT
This is wonderful, bixa, and more likely to put me in a festive Christmas-y mood than the typical snow and ho ho ho around here.
|
|
|
Post by Don Cuevas on Dec 23, 2010 0:48:12 GMT
DC, what sort of mushrooms are those on the pizza? They don't look quite like the bog standard Agaricus bisporus. Do they have any interesting local culinary mushrooms there available in the markets? Bixa would know better than I. I just ordered and ate the pizza when visiting.
|
|
|
Post by mickthecactus on Dec 23, 2010 16:51:44 GMT
This is wonderful, bixa, and more likely to put me in a festive Christmas-y mood than the typical snow and ho ho ho around here. Absolutely.................. (I may get on a plane if one could actually get off the ground here.....).
|
|
|
Post by lola on Dec 24, 2010 1:30:05 GMT
This is great, Bixa. I think the weary woman on the curb and the accordianist are my favorites.
|
|
|
Post by hwinpp on Dec 24, 2010 7:29:20 GMT
When I quickly scrolled past the first photo I thought there was frost on the ground I like the brass band ;D You got it on film?
|
|
|
Post by bixaorellana on Dec 24, 2010 9:12:17 GMT
Thanks, Kimby ~~ that was nice to hear. Come on down, Mick! Not just good weather, but a botanical garden full of your favorites awaits you. Thank you, Lola. I'm quite fond of those two as well. HW, did you see the videos? There are four, and you can hear the band in all of them. No videos of the mariachi, unfortunately. They were just milling in front of that restaurant waiting for something, so I never got to hear them play. Do you have a request, in case I run into working mariachi? Okay, I just want to announce that I went to for y'all tonight, in order to bring you the promised radishes from . I have ka-zillions of photos yet to process, but must tuck myself into the beddy-bye right now. ¡Hasta mañana!
|
|
|
Post by hwinpp on Dec 24, 2010 9:56:26 GMT
Ok, will listen after Christmas
|
|