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Post by Deleted on Jun 13, 2009 15:20:10 GMT
I may be doing overkill by posting yet another series showing Paris as a small village instead of the wondrous sophisticated place that people want to see, but I feel the need to post this photo essay because it is a microscopic area that I never imagined existed until just a few weeks ago. Considering that most people think I should change my career to taxi driver due to my knowledge of all parts of Paris, it can be considered amazing that I had no idea that this little sector existed for the first 37 years or so of living in the city. "La Campagne à Paris" ( Country Living in Paris) isn't even all that old as Parisian dates go. Even though a plan was drawn up in 1906, it wasn't until after World War 1 that the project was built. It wasn't inaugurated until 1926. It consists of 92 houses for the working class, on top of a flat steep hill in total isolation from the rest of the city. Just one narrow street goes up there and all other access is by steep stairways. The "Campagne" districts consists of just two streets -- rue Irenée Blanc and rue Jules Siegfried. For those who know Paris a trifle, it is near Porte de Bagnolet in the 20th arrondissement. Absolutely nobody ever goes there unless they live there, neither Parisians nor tourists. Yet just on the other side of the périphérique (the circular expressway around Paris) in the suburb of Bagnolet, there is a large shopping mall and the principal Paris bus station for international routes -- so tens of thousands of people pass close by every day while having no inkling of this area. It is so quiet and so different up in the Campagne that the first thought that struck me was "this is just like the village in The Prisoner" -- it could be closed off and locked up with the greatest of ease. I myself discovered it early one morning driving around at random when I saw some mysterious stairs leading.... apparently nowhere. The state of disrepair of the stairs intrigued me even more. I instantly parked the car and went to investigate. I huffed and puffed my way up and looked back to see what I had done. What on earth was up here? Why did this area exist? (to be continued)
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Post by bixaorellana on Jun 13, 2009 15:23:51 GMT
Huffed and puffed, indeed! I got vertigo looking at the down shot, Rocky.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 13, 2009 15:46:33 GMT
Well, as you can see, it is about 8 floors above the surrounding area.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 13, 2009 16:37:50 GMT
I found myself in yet another 'rural' single residence area with wild gardens and vigorous vines. This is not extraordinary to people in many parts of the world, but it is truly extraordinary when you are inside the Paris city limits. Unlike districts like the Mouzaïa or a lot of other places, there was clearly a rule against opaque fences. Each and every house and garden was totally visible without walls or intense hedges. (to be continued)
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Post by Deleted on Jun 13, 2009 17:10:49 GMT
The two streets are real streets, but I'm sure that everybody knows exactly which parking space their neighbors use. I certainly would not dare to park a 'foreign' car there if ever a space seemed to be available. Probably the residents would come out with torches and pitchforks.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 13, 2009 17:14:02 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Jun 13, 2009 17:25:21 GMT
Obviously, "workers" do not live here anymore. I do not have the slightest idea what elements of the bourgeoisie have moved in. On one hand, each and every house seems totally delightful. On the other hand, I myself could not imagine wanting to live in such a weirdly isolated and inconvenient location unless I decided to become a total hermit. So, who lives behind these lovely doors? In any case, this was the most isolated and secret place that I have ever seen in Paris. Going back down, I saw that the houses also had secret back gardens, invisible to visitors. So I just went back down to the car with vague plans to return some day. I think it might be nice to see in the autumn.
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gyllenhaalic
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Post by gyllenhaalic on Jun 13, 2009 18:49:56 GMT
Simply breathtaking.
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Post by lagatta on Jun 13, 2009 19:20:09 GMT
It is lovely. Yes, I had heard of it (having studied social history and staying for a while nearby) but I'd be frightened of the trek up there by those slippery-looking stairs. Since there are cars, is there another way?
Those early 20th-century cottage type buildings are strangely appealing. I like the tall building behind La Campagne, of similar vintage, as well.
No, the bourgeoisie doesn't live there now. Not grand enough, or central enough. But strata of the petite bourgeoisie, sans doute.
Lovely as it is, I don't think I'd like to live there, as there don't seem to be any services close at hand, unlike la Mouzaïa. Exploring appeals, climbing the many and treacherous stairs with one's groceries, laptop etc does not.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 13, 2009 19:31:27 GMT
Well, as you can see from the map, there is ONE street that gives access up there. I have been thinking that delivery people from Pizza Hut and stuff like that must really hate it when they are given an address there, even if they are on scooters.
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Post by Jazz on Jun 13, 2009 21:29:33 GMT
Beautiful. It is oddly mysterious and would be a refreshing shift from other parts of Paris. Without doubt, I would go here and to the Mouzaia. I wonder who would choose to live here? It would be perfect for a writer or painter who needed the calm of being 'in the country', yet so close to what the rest of Paris offers. The lack of fences is unusual. Although the staircase is daunting, is it really that different from how many stairs one climbs in Montmartre? ....what is interesting is how ill maintained they are and not much in the way of hand railings. Like Lagatta, I am imagining the treacherous winter ascent with laptop and bags of groceries! I imagine that this, and the lack of small stores and services is done deliberately to discourage people from overwhelming the area.
This hidden tiny village is lovely and intriguing. I am so happy that you stumbled upon it after 37 years! Thank you.
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Post by bixaorellana on Jun 13, 2009 22:41:56 GMT
Words fail me! That is exquisite and I would live there in a heartbeat.
So many touches -- the climbing roses, that wonderful blue picket fence, all the different ironwork. And to have all of that in one of the most exciting cities in the world ...... *sigh*
This is stellar, Kerouac -- thank you. It's a privilege to have this peek at a secret corner of Paris.
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Post by bjd on Jun 14, 2009 6:03:52 GMT
Jazz and Lagatta -- don't compare Paris winters with those in Toronto or Montreal. Not that much snow and ice but mostly damp and gray and above zero. So the steps wouldn't be particularly dangerous.
And I am certainly cynical, but given the price of an individual house with a garden in Paris -- any part of Paris -- that will do more to discourage people from overwhelming the area than any lack of small shops.
That said, I have heard the name, but didn't realize that it looked so nice. One year over a week we spent in Paris, each day we went to look for places that have a similar house/garden area. One in the 14th called something like Colonie des Artistes, another in the 13th with an Alsatian name. Sorry, I don't remember the details -- it was a long time ago. In any case, these places are generally hidden away and you find them either through serendipity or with a good French guidebook.
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Post by patricklondon on Jun 14, 2009 9:28:32 GMT
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Post by Jazz on Jun 14, 2009 11:09:59 GMT
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Post by lagatta on Jun 14, 2009 12:11:11 GMT
bjd, I am very familiar with Paris winters. I have been there every month of the year. I know there is rarely ice or snow (there was last winter though) but I remember for example the paving stones of Père-Lachaise being VERY slippery in the winter damp.
I'm certainly looking forward to exploring La Campagne, as well as la Butte Bergeyre.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 14, 2009 12:47:36 GMT
There is mention of this Parisian gem in one of Allen Furst's spy novels. The protagonist goes to visit a Baroness of Hungarian origin and has tea with her in the garden. Beautiful. Many of the vine covered facades resemble parts of the Village (both East and West ) in NYC. Thank you for all your efforts (those stairs!) and sharing with us.
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Post by bixaorellana on Jun 14, 2009 14:59:09 GMT
I suspect the stairs are in disrepair because they're seldom used. it would be an easy choice between driving home with your groceries or carrying them up that steep incline.
Looking at the pictures, I'm wondering which of the buildings were carriage houses at one time, as surely some of the residents kept private transportation.
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Post by Jazz on Jun 14, 2009 15:03:18 GMT
Bixa, if you read the Metropole article in Post#14, there is a very interesting discussion of the history of this area.
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Post by bixaorellana on Jun 14, 2009 15:33:32 GMT
Interesting history, Jazz, although his writing style and that layout are intensely annoying. I assume the answer to the carriage house question is that this was housing for people who couldn't afford to keep carriages.
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Post by traveler63 on Jun 14, 2009 17:50:40 GMT
K2:
Thanks for a most wonderful post. I have bookmarked this for my trip. We certainly have some beautiful places to try and find.
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Post by lagatta on Jun 14, 2009 18:15:21 GMT
Very few workers in French cities owned cars (or carriages) before the post-Second World War period; there wasn't the same "Fordism" as in North America. Look at all the métro lines and suburban trains. Perhaps some skilled craftsmen did have vehicules if it was part of their job; while this was working-class housing, I doubt it targeted the poorest Parisian workers.
Perhaps that is why this particular development would not be my choice; I don't drive and certainly wouldn't learn to do so if moving to Paris, famous for its excellent (if overburdened) public transport. Though if some good fairy were to give me one of these wee houses I certainly wouldn't say no!
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Post by bixaorellana on Jun 14, 2009 19:18:20 GMT
I would take public transit on the Blvd. d'Mortier, either getting off at the Rue Pierre Mouillard or continuing on transit if that option were available. The walk up the street would have to be easier than climbing those stairs. Since there are four sets of stairs, they'd all have to be investigated to see if they'd afford comfortable access.
Looks like we're all moved in LaGatta. Give me a couple of days & I'll have you over for coffee!
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Post by Deleted on Jun 14, 2009 19:35:10 GMT
The tramway extension will be complete by 2012. The T3 line will go from Pont de Garigliano to Porte de la Chapelle, passing along Boulevard Mortier.
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Post by lola on Jun 17, 2009 23:08:36 GMT
Very nice, kerouac.
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Post by fumobici on Sept 4, 2009 20:01:20 GMT
Great stuff, very reminiscent of Edgewood Ave in San Francisco where my aunt and uncle live, an oasis in the city accessible only by one tiny street or a brutal stairclimb that many of even the locals don't know about (ssshhhhhhhhhhh!)
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Post by cristina on Sept 5, 2009 0:55:46 GMT
Thank you, fumobici, for bringing this to the top! I thoroughly enjoyed this photo essay, as this is the sort of thing I like to trip over when I travel. I will be in Paris next month and a Parisian friend has promised a (likely off the beaten path) tour or something that he is keeping mum about. I have agreed, so long as he allows me to take him on a surprise tour...and this is the one. I just hope he doesn't already know about this little gem. I also hope he doesn't frequent this forum. I don't want the cat out of the bag!
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Post by spindrift on Sept 5, 2009 8:45:36 GMT
I'm so happy have read this thread for the first time. I would like to live up there. The steep steps would provide good exercise. One day it would be nice to walk around the area.
Kerouac, please return when the autumn colours are in full tilt....
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Post by lagatta on Sept 5, 2009 11:09:28 GMT
spindrift, I don't mind the exercise at all, but dragging my bicycle up there would be a challenge!
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Post by spindrift on Sept 5, 2009 12:51:28 GMT
Dragging a bicycle up there Unthinkable! I could never do that.
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