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Post by hwinpp on Feb 15, 2011 6:40:29 GMT
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Post by bixaorellana on Feb 15, 2011 7:36:36 GMT
This is wonderful, HW! It's so amazingly and beautifully un-modern. Compared to pictures you show of Phnom Penh, there is almost no traffic. Is Hue very big? The tombs are incredibly beautiful, especially with the vegetation and mist. They're so well preserved, too. No wonder travelers are so enthusiastic about Vietnam. The pictures look like an ideal of SE Asia. There will be more, yes?  Surely, since the hallmark of an HW presentation is not present yet. |
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Post by hwinpp on Feb 15, 2011 9:17:18 GMT
Those tombs aren't all that old, they're both from the Nguyen dynasty that started in the 1830s I think. The first one built into the mountain is the tomb of emperor Khai Dinh, the second one is the tomb of emperor Tu Duc, actually the older one. We were sitting behind our drivers so we didn't get too wet, it was 16C! Of course, I want to draw this one out a bit more  |
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Post by Deleted on Feb 15, 2011 18:26:24 GMT
The first time I went to Hanoi was in the winter, and I really appreciated the blanket on the bed. It was cold in the evening! And wet. I loved it anyway and I'm glad to see that the streets are not yet overrun with traffic.
I always wonder how much practice it takes before the motorbike riders can balance just about any load imaginable on the back without everything falling off.
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Post by hwinpp on Feb 16, 2011 4:26:09 GMT
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Post by bixaorellana on Feb 16, 2011 5:27:57 GMT
Some beautiful and interesting pictures here, HW. Oddly, it was the picture of the moat that gave me the best idea of how very big the citadel is.
Are the huge dragons a permanent feature?
You all did the whole tour in the rain, right? Well, at least it was picturesque rain.
Speaking of which, I adore the photo of the goldfish being fed, with the splashes of color against all that gray, and the wonderful perspective. The last picture is so serene and beautiful, too.
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Post by hwinpp on Feb 16, 2011 5:32:37 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Feb 16, 2011 6:10:08 GMT
Life on the river is eternally fascinating to me.
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Post by hwinpp on Feb 16, 2011 8:11:54 GMT
It rained the whole of the first day, practically non stop. And it was pretty cold, though it did get colder, but dry, in Hanoi. The Vietnamese were getting around in their flip flops and even the women weren't very bothered with the temperature.
Next day was the same...
The last three pics are of an altar with some offerings.
I don't know why I didn't check out the river last time I was in Hue with my sister's family. It's nice and looks clean enough to swim in. The banks were covered in little vegetable patches.
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Post by hwinpp on Feb 16, 2011 8:42:29 GMT
And finally, here's dinner on the first day. We decided to go for a kinda/ sorta Vietnamese version of yum cha. They're a specialty of Hue and there are at least 6 or 7 different kinds. We didn't realize it's a late afternoon snack, and arriving at the restaurant at 7pm, that's all the choice we got. No worries though, we went through the whole range twice  Before I post the pics, here's a take on banh beo (but it describes the history of how and why Hueans developed these fine little snacks. Hue's Banh Beo
Vietnamese rank the cuisine of Hue, their former imperial capital, as the country's most refined. However, in this gloriously underdeveloped outpost of traditional lifestyles, travelers often have to choose between bland hotel fare, pseudo-historic tourist traps and gritty street stalls.
Banh Beo (right), Ram It (left) and Banh Loc (bottom) served at Hang Me restaurant in Hue
The best and quickest way to encounter the subtle approach and small portions spawned by a courtly 19th-century culture may be through readily available snacks.
In Hue's most popular between-meals treat, the banh beo and its side dishes—rice flour, fish sauce and shrimp meat—are raised to truly regal heights.
THE HISTORY
Banh beo is sometimes translated as "water fern cake," but "fern-shaped cake" would be more accurate. And the plant in question is actually a thin, perfectly round water lily found on the surface of many ponds—and most likely favored by landscapers of the elegant noble estates around Hue.
THE SOURCES
Goc Banh Beo Ba Cu, 93/5 Phan Dinh Phung
Banh Beo Huong Cung An Dinh, 93/9 Phan Dinh Phung
These are two barely covered outdoor eateries strung along an alley alongside the restored An Dinh palace in Hue's more modern downtown, south of the Citadel and the Perfume River. Come early enough to the latter and a peek into the large, open kitchen will reveal the entire process of mixing, stuffing and topping all the popular types of banh.
Hang Me, 45 Vo Thi Sau St.
This is one of three very popular spots, two adjoining, on a street within walking distance of Hue's backpackers' center. The hygiene, and hype, are more evolved here, including menus in English. But the banh beo didn't seem quite as fresh.
True to the name, the cake is thin and round, a dough of powdered rice and manioc (cassava), that gets its shape from the saucer it's steamed in. Bits of crumbled shrimp and fried pieces of pork skin are added for decoration, taste and texture, and a light fish sauce tops it off.
But what is not as clear about the derivation is whether the lineage of the dish is "imperial," as is claimed for most everything in this former feudal seat of the last Vietnamese dynasty.
Boi Tran, a renowned local painter who doubles as a chef, votes no: "It's just a humble snack." Yes, counters Tran Thi Bao Ngan, speaking for a family that cooks up hundreds of banh beo each day at their restaurant, Banh Beo Huong Cung An Dinh. "The Hue kings must have enjoyed this sort of thing, which is very small and delicate," she says.
Yet others suggest that any dishes served near or around banana leaves must be a legacy of the ancient Cham culture that once dominated Central Vietnam.
THE SETTING
In olden times, the banh beo were probably carted around the street by peddlers slinging bamboo poles over one shoulder. Today, the establishments that feature the snack are hardly more permanent—small dives barely removed from the street, some furnished with full tables but others just with the tiny stools that keep Vietnamese in touch with their sidewalk roots.
And, even though the banh beo will be what's advertised on the signboard or awning, the dish—usually served a dozen at a time—often is the centerpiece for an array of rolls and buns, available almost any time of the day, perfect for breakfast or late-night after-drinks nibbling. But the snack is favored by Hue residents around tea time, from 3 p.m. on. If carried away, it can also double as the evening meal.
The many pastry variations include banh uot, ultra-thin rice pancakes topped with fried shallots; banh nam, another Hue specialty, a gooey rice concoction grilled inside banana leaf; and banh ramit, a cholesterol kicker made of fried dough topped with icing of pork fat. Call it all the Vietnamese version of dim sum—as so much about Hue's traditions are markedly Chinese in influence—except that there's no requirement to accompany anything with tea. A wide range of beverages are acceptable, though one favored by many is indeed a tea of sorts, served cold and infused with ginger.
THE JUDGMENT
As one restaurant menu puts it, "Here we go! Fancy the special Hue seasonings to single bit of the Banh Beo!"
Everything about the banh beo should work harmoniously in a single bite: the soft but not too rubbery consistency of the steamed dough (made creamier by bits of melted lard), the freshness of the shrimp meat (best if fished from a nearby lagoon), the crunchiness of the cracklings, and—what most veteran local snackers stress—the unique balance of the sauce dribbled over everything, where the fish sauce plus sugar should somehow meld everything in a lingering flavor that isn't the slightest bit fishy or sugary yet hints of dried shrimp.
But lest aficionados get too carried away with fine distinctions, local guide Phan Quoc Vinh reminds, "This is what you call our comfort food, something we enjoy since we are babies."online.wsj.com/article/SB10001424052748703632304575452572722521924.htmlI don't believe the picture given in the article is at Hang Me though, that's where we ate and it certainly doesn't look like the table or dishes in the pic above. What's on offer  Banh Beo      |
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Post by bjd on Feb 16, 2011 9:03:49 GMT
Initeresting pics, HW, despite the rain. Were most of the tourists on your guided visit Vietnamese or foreigners?
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Post by hwinpp on Feb 16, 2011 10:40:43 GMT
All foreigners. Maybe 15 in total. I think we all enjoyed it, including being herded around ;D
Though if you wanted to get in- depth info on Hue it would probably be better to get a better guide and read a couple of books first.
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Post by bixaorellana on Feb 16, 2011 18:25:50 GMT
Ha ~~ you all licked the platter & the teeny dishes clean! Are the white sheets of stuff thinly sliced fish or squid. It looks wonderful. Do they keep bringing out the various elements until you tell them to stop?
I realize it was raining, but the area looks so quiet and unpopulated. This whole thread really made me understand why Vietnam is a place people love to visit. Would you go back to Hue for a few days if you had the chance?
The boat and river pictures are lovely.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 16, 2011 18:27:44 GMT
There are some interesting food items that I have not seen before.
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Post by mich64 on Feb 16, 2011 19:09:00 GMT
Fascinating. The serenity of the man alone on the river in his boat. I spent quite a bit of time looking deeply into the apartments on top of the shops from the view of the hotel room. I always try to imagine... Are these the homes of the shop owners, are they rentals, have generations of families lived in them and so on.... A vacation in the rain is better than rain at home on your way to work. Cheers, Mich |
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Post by hwinpp on Feb 18, 2011 7:37:20 GMT
Ha ~~ you all licked the platter & the teeny dishes clean! Are the white sheets of stuff thinly sliced fish or squid. It looks wonderful. Do they keep bringing out the various elements until you tell them to stop? I realize it was raining, but the area looks so quiet and unpopulated. This whole thread really made me understand why Vietnam is a place people love to visit. Would you go back to Hue for a few days if you had the chance? The boat and river pictures are lovely. Those white sheets are made of rice flour, you could call them noodles. The different dishes only come when ordered, but they're plentiful and always sell out I've been told. I'll be back in Hue next year. I usually try a new place in Central Vietnam twice. 2009 and 2010 I was in Nha Trang (remember those Cham towers?), 2011 and 2012 are/ will be Hue and after that I'll probably try Danang together with Hoi An (I think Jack had a longish thread about the lanterns of Hoi An). There are some interesting food items that I have not seen before. Definitely try those banhs. I'd never heard of them before though I'd seen two kinds in Saigon before. Fascinating. The serenity of the man alone on the river in his boat. I spent quite a bit of time looking deeply into the apartments on top of the shops from the view of the hotel room. I always try to imagine... Are these the homes of the shop owners, are they rentals, have generations of families lived in them and so on.... A vacation in the rain is better than rain at home on your way to work. Cheers, Mich I think most shop owners live above their own shops. Lots of people living in small space. I could use a bit of that rain here now, Mich. It's dry and I can feel the coolness of winter has left Phnom Penh. |
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Post by hwinpp on Feb 18, 2011 7:39:30 GMT
The last full day in Hue. I had to do some work so I didn't take many pics. Weather was still cold and wet. An ao dai shop  Not sure what this offering was for, could have been Tet prepping. Saw a couple of these in the streets in the morning, the owners of the shops were also burning 'hell money'.  A little backpackers alley not far from my hotel. All the usual suppliers available.  Dinner was at this little bun bo shop on the Citadel side of the river. Very good stuff and slightly different from the way I know this noodle dish in Saigon.    Fish balls.  Pork blood  Pork knuckles and trotters, veggies, condiments  Guests  |
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Post by Deleted on Feb 18, 2011 19:26:45 GMT
I may have stayed in that backpackers' alley the last time I was in Hué.
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Post by bixaorellana on Feb 19, 2011 2:28:28 GMT
HW, that picture with the ao dai is brilliant -- Cinderella's mop and broom, then her party dresses! ;D
I looked up ao dai. They have a fascinating history completely tied to that of the country.
Is that food for the dead in the pic after the dresses? I could do with some of that, although what you had looks awfully good, too.
What are the fish balls floating in, please?
Do you find your second trips more fun, simply because you know more?
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Post by hwinpp on Feb 19, 2011 4:00:55 GMT
I may have stayed in that backpackers' alley the last time I was in Hué. My hotel was just at the end of this alley and on the other ide of the road. A huge old Soviet style building but not too bad. At least the rooms are big in these kinds of places. I'm not sure where the main backpacker's are is or if this is the one. Had everything, cheap guest houses, laundry, book exchange, restaurants, muesli. I bought my tour at a place right at the front. Also the car to the airport. HW, that picture with the ao dai is brilliant -- Cinderella's mop and broom, then her party dresses! ;D I looked up ao dai. They have a fascinating history completely tied to that of the country. Is that food for the dead in the pic after the dresses? I could do with some of that, although what you had looks awfully good, too. What are the fish balls floating in, please? Do you find your second trips more fun, simply because you know more? You read the wiki article re the ao dai? Basically it's the cheong sam combined with a pair of trousers. The history goes back long before the Nguyen dynasty. Here a close up:  As soon as an appropriate amount of time has passed for the ghosts to have had their fill the leftovers are taken into the house and the whole family tucks in. The fish balls are floating in a broth, as are the blocks of pig blood. |
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Post by hwinpp on Feb 19, 2011 6:49:52 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Feb 19, 2011 15:18:29 GMT
As usual, it doesn't look like you went hungry, so maybe it is a good thing that they were out of some of the stuff. ;D
I rode through the diplomatic enclave once when sharing a minibus from the airport with a Swedish family who was living there. It looked so boring compared to a lot of the rest of Hanoi.
It's always nice to see some of the French colonial villas that survived all of the bombs... and the developers!
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Post by bixaorellana on Feb 19, 2011 18:45:45 GMT
It seems quite different from Hue. I take it you & your brother have some favorite eateries. All that porky stuff looks delicious. The photo of the green corridor with the young woman carrying the tray could have been taken in Oaxaca. If you liked that jelly belly pork, you absolutely must come here for the pickled pigs feet. Those tall white buildings that are shoulder to shoulder are newish condos or apartments, correct? I like that in the midst of that fake ritziness, there is a cable sloppily & dangerously draped across a balcony. ;D If you were forced to choose, would you live in Hue or Hanoi? |
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Post by cheerypeabrain on Feb 21, 2011 20:20:29 GMT
What a fascinating thread. I've never been to Vietnam but it looks well worth a visit. I love the ornate buildings and your images capturing 'everyday life' are so interesting Hwinpp...brilliant stuff. Oh...and if you like rain you could come visit me....we've had drizzle and rain for WEEKS....  |
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Post by hwinpp on Feb 22, 2011 3:44:56 GMT
As usual, it doesn't look like you went hungry, so maybe it is a good thing that they were out of some of the stuff. ;D I rode through the diplomatic enclave once when sharing a minibus from the airport with a Swedish family who was living there. It looked so boring compared to a lot of the rest of Hanoi. It's always nice to see some of the French colonial villas that survived all of the bombs... and the developers! Vietnam is one place I don't allow myself to go hungry! It seems quite different from Hue. I take it you & your brother have some favorite eateries. All that porky stuff looks delicious. The photo of the green corridor with the young woman carrying the tray could have been taken in Oaxaca. If you liked that jelly belly pork, you absolutely must come here for the pickled pigs feet. Those tall white buildings that are shoulder to shoulder are newish condos or apartments, correct? I like that in the midst of that fake ritziness, there is a cable sloppily & dangerously draped across a balcony. ;D If you were forced to choose, would you live in Hue or Hanoi? I'd live in Hanoi, no doubt about that. But if you included Saigon in the options I'd chose that. The weather there is just so much better than either Hue or Hanoi. And it's the biggest city in VN. What a fascinating thread. I've never been to Vietnam but it looks well worth a visit. I love the ornate buildings and your images capturing 'everyday life' are so interesting Hwinpp...brilliant stuff. Oh...and if you like rain you could come visit me....we've had drizzle and rain for WEEKS.... I like the rain for a change The dry season started in Cambodia around the middle of November, it's not going to rain again until May/ June. So getting the rain in VN was a nice refreshment |
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Post by hwinpp on Feb 22, 2011 3:59:21 GMT
And now I come to the end of the trip. One of the favourite places I like to eat at with my brother is this strip of open air BBQ places on Kim Ma street. I couldn't get any food pics because I was called away before any meaningful stuff could arrive... for work   Motorbike valet parking attendant  Crowded, ain't it? Main drinks in the cold season are water and rice wine  The main attraction here is lau de, goat hotpot and BBQ  The next day, just some neighbourhood pics    Lucky trees for Tet, I think kumquats or something similar, very sour fruit  Nearly every household buys one  And that was the end of Hanoi. The next day I returned to Saigon, collected some money off a couple of clients (it's all cash in SEA!), overnighted, got a quick breakfast of beef stew with bread  took the bus back to Phnom Penh and then got into my regular tuktuk to take me home. He'd made himself a new sign, I told him he should have consulted me first ;D  |
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Post by Deleted on Feb 22, 2011 6:02:25 GMT
Go Air Ports! |
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Post by bixaorellana on Feb 22, 2011 6:30:35 GMT
When I come visit, I'm going to absolutely insist that you take me to Heart the Dark Ness bar. I'll be sure to say Thank!
Is that holy basil next to the beef stew, or some other herb?
Wow on the cash transactions. You'd think in that kind of business, it would be all credit cards.
I can't believe you had to miss out on goat hotpot and bbq because of boring old work.
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Post by hwinpp on Feb 22, 2011 7:11:53 GMT
;D ;D ;D I'd have told him to print out 'any port'! Yes, Bix, that's holy basil. It's the standard dish of herbs you get in Vietnam. There's also saw tooth coriander and a bit of other stuff that I'll post here for identification next time You wouldn't believe it but I became quite annoyed when I got the call. But it actually turns out to have been quite good to answer the phone. We had to submit a bid and I checked and corrected it. Turns out we're reaping the rewards tomorrow and the day after tomorrow. I'll be going to Siem Reap in about 30 minutes to welcome a plane- load of Burmese tour operators on the inaugural Rangoon- Siem Reap direct flight We've been made their wholesaler! |
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Post by Deleted on Feb 22, 2011 8:17:00 GMT
I read that in Vietnamese every syllable is considered to be a separate word, which is why you will see the city names written Ha Noi, Da Nang, Sai Gon -- so it is common to see them split up compound words from English or other languages. I would imagine that some of this carries over to Cambodia as well, even though they did not adopt a romanized alphabet.
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Surely, since the hallmark of an HW presentation is not present yet.
