Paris streets: rue des Rosiers (75004)

[Deleted]

Rue des Rosiers should be one of the most fascinating and historic streets of Paris. It has existed since the 13th century and is the backbone of the original Jewish district in Paris. Even though the presence of Jews was attested back in the 14th century, actually most of the Jewish population arrived in the early 20th century, after fleeing the pogroms in Romania, Austria-Hungary and Russia. Between 1881 and 1914, 20,000 Jews settled in the neighborhood.

Unfortunately, there were the horrors of WW2, but the street actually lost its soul in the mid 1980's when more than half of the traditional Jewish commerces were replaced by fashionable clothing boutiques.

Tourists still flock there in search of the past, but mostly what they find instead are the 5 falafel vendors and their frenzied competition.

Nevertheless, the street is worth a quick visit, and that is exactly what I did. I always enter it from rue Vieille du Temple, where it is almost invisible after having been mostly pedestrianized 5 years ago.

I confess that this was at 7am on a Sabbath morning, so I knew I wasn't going to see much activity there.

Most of the shops have changed activity but kept the historic sign.



This was a bakery in the old days.

[bjd]

I saw recently that Jo Goldenberg's restaurant has disappeared too. I usually go to rue des Rosiers when I'm in Paris to buy a challah at Korczak's. I do try to go in the mornings to avoid crowds but I don't like the area as much any more, so I'll probably start going to the one in Montreuil.

[Deleted]

L'As du Fallafel is in all of the guidebooks, and tourists flock there as expected.



Does anybody really care what Lenny Kravitz recommends?

The real neighborhood institution was the Jo Goldenberg restaurant and deli. It was attacked by terrorists in 1982, killing 6 and injuring 22. Numerous terrorist organizations were suspected, but it was never possible to determine responsibility. In any case, the restaurant closed in 2006 and is now a clothing store.

Another institution for 50 years was the Hammam Saint Paul, where the old Jewish men, particularly from Hungary, recreated the ambience of the steam baths of Budapest. They would spend all afternoon playing chess naked and setting up marriages for their daughters. It is now a clothing store as well.



There are numerous commerative plaques in the street, but that is true of most Parisian streets.

           

Chez Marianne is my favorite restaurant on the street. It is Jewish but not strictly kosher. In fact, I think it is even open on Saturday these days.

[Deleted]

Feeling a bit guilty about taking photos of everything closed, I returned today to take a few photos showing the places open.

However, if anybody wants to see modern Jewish neighborhood in Paris, I recommend certain areas of the 19th arrondissement. Rue des Rosiers is just a shadow of its past and no longer gives an accurate picture of Jewish contributions to Parisian culture.

A recent movie showing how things were during WW2 is "Sarah's Key" which played in France about a year ago but which is just being released in North America next month, I think. Kristin Scott Thomas stars in it.

[lagatta]

I see that is not the same film as La Rafle, also about Vél d'Hiv.

Who makes the best fallafel?

The neighbourhood is worth a visit, and the Jewish Art and History museum is nearby, but indeed there is more of contemporary Jewish-Parisian cultures in certain parts of the 19th. But nothing so "showy" - just daily life, kosher supermarkets or supermarket departments, restaurants etc. There was a kosher Argentine steakhouse near les Buttes Chaumont, but I think it has closed...

How is Chez Marianne? It is very pretty.

[Deleted]

I have never compared the falafel, but more and more people are saying that the falafel at the place on the other side of the street from l'As du Fallafel is just as good but without the big line of people. (My photo doesn't show a big line because it was only 11am.)

[Deleted]

Here is basically what you get from these places.

[bjd]

I didn't realize Goldenberg's had been closed since 2006. How time flies! But I remember the protests by local shopkeepers against the pedestrianization of the Rue des Rosiers. Sure, there was a lot of slow traffic before, but it felt livelier. Now it indeed feels Disneyfied.

[nycgirl]

Great photo tour! I never saw it without the huge crowds. It looks really nice, especially photo #2.

[koloagirl]

Aloha from Kaua'i!

Wonderful tour of the rue des Rosiers area! Since it is very close to where we are staying this next month....and we weren't able to explore it last year- definitely will this year - and maybe on a early Sabbath morning as you did, what beautiful pictures those are - you really see the buildings when there aren't so many tourists around!!

Merci beaucoup - wonderful phototour! I.....can't......wait!!!!!

Malama Pono, (take care),
Janet

[Deleted]

People who don't get out on the streets of Paris during the weekend early in the morning don't know what they are missing. The best time is right after the passage of the sweepers and the street washing trucks. In any case, all of that work is usually finished before 9 am.

[sojoh]

Since I've only seen the rue des Rosiers when it's swarming with tourists eating falafals, the first part of your post makes me think that I need to get there early in the morning. But before 9 am?! I guess that I'll have to forego breakfast at home and get something to eat while I'm there. At least there are lots of tempting options - crepes, something sweet from Sacha Finkelstein's like their apple strudel but probably not a falafal in the AM.

[Deleted]

On that particular photo shoot, I remember diving into a great boulangerie on rue du Roi de Sicile where I purchased two pains aux raisins that kept me alive.

[sojoh]

Oh, I'll have to look for that bakery. Thanks for the tip. Pains aux raisins are favorites of mine and usually one of my weekend "treats".