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Post by bixaorellana on Oct 25, 2011 20:20:21 GMT
Just a few bits of my life from Friday through Sunday in October. Nothing exciting, only that I'm doing it in an exotic foreign place, just as the activities of the rest of you are going on in places exotic to me. Friday I had to go to the big produce market, whether I wanted to or not, since I was out of food. Even though I don't like to take my camera there when it's crowded, this close to Muertos there are likely to be good photo-ops. First I go over the ground rules with the puppy. She is shocked and wounded that I'd even think she was digging. Yes, you're precious. Yes, I'm still leaving. Lemme go inside and change. The game plan for this excursion was to take pictures of all my favorite vendors and their stands. I mostly spaced out doing that, but did capture a few. This plant vendor is always one of my first stops. She's lovely and has great stuff. Almost immediately I come across some early warning signs of Day of the Dead, which you all may recognize from my thread on that subject. Actually, the marigolds in the plant picture are also specific to this time of the year, as they're not generally grown as ornamentals the way they are in other parts of the world. It's not super crowded for a Friday, but next week should be a madhouse. Still, I have to keep out of the way of laden porters and vendors with unwieldy products.
These markets have customer convenience and product availability down to a science. This tiny grocery is fairly easy to set up and dismantle. Garlic! Get some garlic! This vendor is in the section where the people from the Isthmus of Tehuantepec have their stands. The women in the next photo wear clothing typical of that area. The standing woman is folding banana leaves. Oh, goody ~~ I've arrived at one of my favorite stands. Here's where I get my molasses cookies, my chile-flavored cheese, and where I found the prawns. The husband announces to me that if I'd come earlier I could have had lobster, "but some Chinese person bought all of it". Having learned my lesson about non-kicking crustaceans, I have to fake disappointment. This couple are from the Isthmus, and as all ismeños seem to be, are very friendly and outgoing. I wish the wife hadn't started acting silly for the camera, as she's actually extremely attractive. In the picture below, the discs with the dimples are totopos. The darker ones with no holes are lightly flavored with raw sugar. Both are addictive. The stuff in gold wrapping is a dense, crumbly, salty cheese. That's fresh pot cheese next to it, both plain & with chiles. There are fresh coconuts in the box on the ground, and some kind of very salty boiled crustacean in front of the little girl.
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Post by bixaorellana on Oct 25, 2011 20:53:01 GMT
I'm starting to realize that things are not in their usual places because of the extra stands set up for day of the dead stuff. Still, there won't be a problem of finding anything I need from grooming supplies to kitchen ware. Oh, what's this?! I'm in heaven seeing these wonderful winter squash. I bought that hubbard squash by the vendor's foot and learned that it's called güiche or huiche locally. That's the Zapotec word for it -- it's shikin-iñu in Mixtec. I also found out that the word for cushaw, those long-necked lovelies, is chomba. I'll be back for one of those next week! Let's plunge into an extravaganza of fun, goofy, and downright weird ways to celebrate life's basic reality -- death. We've arrived at the main concentration of the d.o.d stands. What's that on the aisle behind them? Let's interject a little piety ~~ Oooo --this is a really good stand. We'll take a closer look at what's on its right-hand side in the next post.
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Post by bixaorellana on Oct 25, 2011 21:07:06 GMT
Who wouldn't want such realistic skulls to commemorate the faithful departed?! Look what the little grim reapers are doing -- great variation on a theme! The color orange is not associated with day of the dead the way that it is with Halloween. Still, coming as I do from a Halloween culture, I found the light cast by the orange tarps effectively appropriate, if a pain for taking pictures. Now, what in Sam Hill is this?! Gotta see this up close ~~ What mind conceived of this -- zany? sick? inspired?
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Post by bixaorellana on Oct 25, 2011 21:13:27 GMT
Whew ~~ that's enough of that! Time for me to go get my last little bit of stuff, then head home. My last stop is with one of my long-time favorite vendors -- Tino. I met him back when I mostly used the Zaachila market and remain faithful to him here. That's it for Friday's pictures. Stay tuned for Saturday in the park and Sunday at a kid's birthday party.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 25, 2011 21:15:15 GMT
All of the Day of the Dead stuff is ten times better than anything that happens in Europe, ever. You are absolutely obligated to make a new fabulous report on November 1-2.
Meanwhile, I am always intrigued at how the market people wear "regional" garb. It existed in France, but it must have disappeared about 70 years ago.
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Post by mich64 on Oct 25, 2011 21:32:34 GMT
Thank you for introducing us to some of your friends Bixa, they all seem like very friendly vendors.
I am always impressed with the amount of merchandise they have and that it always seems to be kept so neat and orderly, very professional, I like the way they present their products.
Enjoying your weekend thus far!
Cheers, Mich
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Post by bixaorellana on Oct 25, 2011 22:16:12 GMT
Oh okay, Kerouac, if you say so, I'll duly trudge myself out to see flower-bedecked cemeteries, sand and strawflower "paintings", etc. ;D Traditional clothing on women is seen every day around here, whether the whole outfit, or just some time honored thing such as carrying a baby in the rebozo. Even women who wear modern clothing might wear a good huipil (traditional shift-like dress) &/or rebozo for dress-up. The woman in the foreground of the next-to-the-last photo above is wearing a blouse that's a new variation which came in less than two years ago. That fabric is hand loomed and was formerly seen only as rebozos. Then someone came up with the idea of folding those in half and making either dresses or blouses. Now they're everywhere, as they're very cheap and nice and cool. Thanks, Mich. Yeah, even after seeing it a thousand times, you have to marvel at the work done in setting up, taking down, and cleaning up. The woman in the green blouse holding the cookies in the OP told me that they come the night before the big produce market on a six hour bus ride from their home, set up, spend the next day selling, then go back home that night. They do this twice a week!
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Post by fumobici on Oct 25, 2011 22:20:11 GMT
The voluptuous bikini clad skullheaded women will go perfectly with my ceramic Jesús Malverde bust!
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Post by bixaorellana on Oct 25, 2011 23:20:24 GMT
Now it's late Saturday morning and I need to go downtown to return some books to the library and stock up on more. The library is very close to El Llano park, which will be little Darla's introduction to mowed grass and car-less spaces. So, we've zipped into the library & out. It was exciting for the puppy, as she loves children and Saturday is story time and kids' English lessons at the library. Here we are at the park. "Oh, hoomun -- you were so right about how much I'd like this grass!" After some romping and exploring, we check out the big, sparsely attended health fair set up in the park. Here are some little artists coloring in the lines -- . I guess the pictures might have some wholesome message theme, but the Barbie and Disney intensiveness of them is off-putting. From the looks of some of the artwork, the artists would have preferred blank paper. You can see beyond the easels how many pavilions were set up. There were trees for reforesting being sold, examples of recycling, clever recycled items for sale, free massages which were very popular, organic foods and beauty items -- all the usual sort of things. The rainy season ended this month & the dry season is upon us. Everything is still green and October is beautiful here as always, with deep blue skies and a continuous light breeze, but there's no denying we're in the season of drought. I bought some seeds of a traditional Mexican herb and a hard-to-find chile from this nice man, who is from the Abruzzo region of Italy. Now, I should keep this next thing for a surprise, but I'm too excited. It was such a great opportunity to do some early Christmas shopping. I got each of you one of these great t-shirts! It was such a beautiful day, I decided to keep walking towards the center of the city. Here we are on Alcalá, the pedestrian street. The wall on the right is part of the botanical garden. The wall on the left encloses the church of Carmen Alta complex & we're at the base of the plazuela Carmen Alta. That's mostly hippie jewelry on the tables. Note the woman underneath the middle table. She's trying to get her child to take a nap. A little further up the plazuela these vendors' kids are entertaining themselves nicely in a timeless, universal way ~~ Continuing south on Alcalá, I come upon a quintessential Oaxacan scene -- a decorated car and an ice cream vendor waiting outside the church of Santo Domingo where a quinceañera Mass is going on. (quinceañera = celebration of a girl's 15th birthday, coming into adulthood) Also in front of the church is this interesting sculpture, which I think is made of concrete: Darla was pretty pooped by this time. I'd been standing on her leash when I wanted to take a picture, but for this one I didn't bother. After I clicked, I looked and -- no dog! She'd disappeared into thin air, just like that. I was staring around frantically & calling her name when I noticed two cops smiling and waving at me. Darla had sneaked under the coils to cool off. The two police came over & I really regret I don't have a picture of that. They were decked out in full riot gear, all black & menacing like the photos of Mexico that so alarm people. They came over because they wanted to pet the doggy and laugh about my groundless alarm. We continue down Alcalá, with me now carrying Darla most of the way. I put her down to take a picture of the perfectly placed small graphic on the step. "I'll just have this cold beer, thank you very much." (she's a cute dog, but can really hog a photo shot)
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Post by bixaorellana on Oct 25, 2011 23:24:35 GMT
"ceramic Jesús Malverde bust"
*pricks up ears* That sounds like my cup of tea, Fumobici!
I want you all to particularly admire the photo of the hanging candles. Remember I had to look at that stand in order to take the picture. I stood off to one side & snapped that artistic angle, being very careful to not. look. at. what. was. for. sale.
Give me a clunkily made shadow box with a lurid light inside & I'm about as happy as I get.
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Post by mich64 on Oct 25, 2011 23:28:59 GMT
Cute, Darla is ADORABLE! I am sorry, I love dogs. Cheers, Mich
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Post by bixaorellana on Oct 25, 2011 23:50:00 GMT
We're now at the end of Alcalá, and turning to go to the Alameda, the big space in front of the cathedral. This is the north wall where flowers are being prepared for the feast of El Señor del Rayo. (#5, cathedral link)I took several pictures of this group of people, trying to figure out what the brightly colored beads were. Finally, one of the older ladies (hidden in this pic) gestured with her bead-hung arm. The necklaces were made from dyed seeds and beans. I got a yellow one. These ambulatory vendors are either tired or just wanting to soak up the afternoon sun. This woman is a Triqui, as were the necklace vendors. It's hard to talk to them, as many of them don't speak Spanish. Regardless of what the Wikipedia entry says, there are scads of Triqui women selling clothes in the city of Oaxaca. Well, time to head back home. I pick up a roasted chicken from one of the stands in front of where I catch the bus. This photo is taken at the stop light on the ring road where we cross from Oaxaca to Xoxocotlán, where I live. Hey, look -- I can see myself in the round mirror. Lemme get a picture of myself for the lucky anyporters. Do appreciate this, as I've got a pile of books, a tired puppy dog, and a hot roast chicken on my lap as I claw out the camera for a couple of last shots. I attempted to show more face and to smile in the second one. Can't smile and concentrate at the same time. That's it for Saturday, folks. Tune in again, please, for Sunday's birthday party, which I'll post as soon as I host the pictures.
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Post by bixaorellana on Oct 26, 2011 3:38:08 GMT
Don't be sorry, Mich -- thank you! I obviously can't resist any opportunity to show her off. Well now, for the purposes of this thread, it is Sunday afternoon & time for me to go to Melissa's party for her fourth birthday. Yes, I am several decades too old for this, but inviting grown-ups to kids' parties is the norm here. I wouldn't not go for the world, as this family has been very kind to me, in fact were instrumental in getting me the house where I now live. The dog doesn't seem too agitated by my leaving. (If anyone is wondering about her size, that mat is just a hair under 24 1/2 inches long / @62 centimeters.)I'm greeted at the door by the sweet party girl, who is immensely proud of her Jessie costume. Her mother told her to pose for the pictures. Thank goodness for the awning -- the sun is fierce right now. Drat -- I've done it again! The invitation said 3 pm, so I moseyed over here around 3:30, which as usual is far too early. When will I learn? Obviously quite a few pint-sized guests are expected ~~ The gift table hasn't begun to fill up yet. The balls & the stuff in the black bag are prizes for games. This little guy lives here in the family compound & is absolutely adorable. He has a problem that's fairly common with small Mexican children, in that he can't pronounce the letter R. Today he asked me if Darla was my "pelita". Melissa and her mother peering into the kitchen. Everything okay in there? Here come more guests ~~ This family got here more on time than I did & it's beginning to wear on them ~~ These are two of my next-door neighbors, Kevin and his mother. Oh look -- teenagers texting!
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Post by bixaorellana on Oct 26, 2011 3:53:54 GMT
Biding my time here, ready for the mad rumpus to begin -- We're just being a little pensive before things heat up ~~ Hmm. I'm not the only one taking pictures, but I'm sure not in his league camera-wise. I'll help! Let me help! (The man is Melissa's dad.) Hey man -- thanks for helping me put the tamales on the table. Couldn't have done it without you! It's time for some games. The boys have to walk to a certain point then return without dropping the limes. "Bite on the spoon -- bite it!" Okay, on the count of three ...... Walking, walking, they're doing it! And they've made the turn & are in the homeward stretch! This game is who can blow up the balloon & tie it before the time is up ~~ The games of musical chairs brought out interesting personality traits in the kids. He twice pulled this trick of grabbing & reversing the chair, to heavy disapproval, as you can see. This looks like a nice picture of happy party-goers and a little girl on her daddy's knee -- but she's still crying from when she ran sobbing from the scene of her humiliation as the mere runner-up in musical chairs.
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Post by bixaorellana on Oct 26, 2011 4:07:27 GMT
I managed to get a picture of the cake before it got any sneaky finger swipes. "No idea what's going on, but it seems okay!" In keeping with the western theme, now someone will be strung up. Oh -- it's the piñata Jessie. She deserves hanging for the way she's let herself go. Look at her butt in those jeans! Just a token kid-swinging-stick picture. We all know how this will end. Gather round -- time to blow out the candles. After she blew them, she was told to take a big bite. Aftermath of that to follow. This is Abril with her parents, who also are my next-door neighbors. Abril and Kevin are 1st cousins. Here's Abril again. The lady in the gorgeous huipil is Sra. Cristina, my next-door neighbor on the other side. Everyone is happy now that the tamales, cake, and gelatina have been served. I certainly enjoyed mine! Time to say my goodbyes and go. Oh. You're home. Good. That's it -- a pleasant three days out of my life. Thanks for hanging out with me!
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Post by mich64 on Oct 26, 2011 4:27:43 GMT
A busy couple of days, but so much fun! I love how many people come for a 4 year olds birthday! Actually we had that many when we went to my great nephews 2nd birthday party this summer as well. You cannot help but smile all day because the children have so much fun in anticipation of what it is all about. Thanks Bixa, loved the photos, the colours, the people and your dear Darla!
Cheers, Mich
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Post by mickthecactus on Oct 26, 2011 15:26:58 GMT
Absolutely lovely and fascinating pictures Bixa.
And lovely pictures of you too.
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Post by nycgirl on Oct 26, 2011 15:43:18 GMT
What a delightful thread! Your little Darla is so darling! Is she a Lab? How big is she going to get?
Love the spectacular colors of the market, from the attractive piles of fruits and veggies to the ominous, orange-tinted Day of the Dead wares. Such interesting objects for sale too, like those eerily realistic skulls. And I really like the blouse you pointed out in #3. I would love to have one of those.
Good job capturing a self-portrait. I love the little mirrored image against the backdrop of the vibrant red bus interior.
The little birthday girl looks so adorable in her Jessie outfit. Looks like she had a fun party, too.
Thanks for sharing your weekend with us.
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Post by cheerypeabrain on Oct 26, 2011 16:31:11 GMT
Well what a busy life you lead...a very interesting and well documented report...Darla is GORGEOUS... as are you dearie.....The market is fascinating, like ours only with sunshine and the party looks like fun. Mexican children are so very good looking aren't they? Is it usual for the whole village/street to be invited to a child's birthday party? The photos really illustrate the atmosphere and warmth of the country don't they? I can smell the cooking and in my head I can hear the laughter and friendly banter. I enjoyed this thread very much. X
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Post by cheerypeabrain on Oct 26, 2011 16:32:56 GMT
ps....I don't really want that tee-shirt....
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Post by bixaorellana on Oct 26, 2011 19:23:59 GMT
Thanks so much, Mich. Your posts about family gatherings are always heartwarming. Thanks to you, Mick, & one of these: Oh, you are kind, NYCGirl. I am hoping you and Boy get here one day. I'll show you around, plus there are activities that might especially appeal to the two of you. You can hike the hills and the archeological sites. I have to laugh about the lab comment, since I keep saying that if you put Darla next to a well-made toy car, she'd look like a full-sized lab. She's tiny -- @8 lbs -- & the vet says she may not get any bigger. I'm guessing she might be chihuahua + dachsund + ? (see 1st pic, #12) Thank you, lovely Cheery. Have your markets closed down, or do they stay open until frost? Since I'm new in this neighborhood (coming up on one year), I'm still learning who hates whom. So no, not everyone gets invited. But yes, it's a convivial country. One thing that's always odd to me, though, is the habit of stringing out chairs as though for a lecture -- not really conducive to mingling. What was nice at the birthday party was that the music was either at a pleasant level or absent altogether. I've been to tons of parties where table or seat mates only smile at each other as conversation is impossible because of insanely loud music. Oh, you must have the shirt -- you'd be lovely in that color. ;D
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Post by cheerypeabrain on Oct 26, 2011 19:48:16 GMT
ooooh nooooo....
Leicester Market is open all year round, the one in the city centre is mostly under cover and does a roaring trade ;D We also have a Farmers' Market in the centre one Thursday a month and a visiting continental market as well....that just comes 2-3 times a year...(I posted pics of the last one)
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Post by nycgirl on Oct 26, 2011 20:08:33 GMT
Wow, she is tiny! I think my cat weighs 16 lbs. I should have guessed from the paws. Even when Labs are very young and small, they still have huge paws. Well, she's an adorable little sweetie.
I'd love to see Oaxaca, it looks like so much fun! I can't believe I haven't been anywhere in Mexico yet.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 26, 2011 20:36:57 GMT
This was a really great report, Bixa. As I think you may have noticed, I really like reports about everyday events and activities. This one sort of reminds me about my report of the 80th birthday party of my friends in Lorraine, but it is far superior because you had much better contact with the people attending and were able to take far better pictures. I would really love it if more of the people here would make reports about their daily life, neighbors, local shops, schools, activities... because that is what I find much more interesting than seeing monuments or scenery (even though I love that, too). And I have to say that your little dog is a real cutie, even though he looks like he is not yet sure about you.
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Post by bixaorellana on Oct 27, 2011 5:35:10 GMT
Oh, Cheery, I know you're super-busy, but it would be so great if you'd report on your markets. (pretty please)
Thanks, NYCGirl. Mexico is pretty interesting, not only for historical sites, archaeology, tropical beauty, etc., but because there's a zany edge to it that's endlessly fun. The country is furiously promoting tourism, especially in light of all the scary press reports. One major way they could promote it is to make flying here & within the country economically reasonable. Many people in the US take one look at the air fares & blurt out, "I could go to Europe for that!"
Thanks so much, Kerouac, even though I disagree with you that my party report was any better than yours. And yes -- everyone pay heed to what Kerouac is saying about rich fodder for photo reports being right beneath your noses!
Darla is a girl doggy. And she's quite sure about me because she's pleased that I've been so easy to train.
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Post by hwinpp on Oct 27, 2011 7:13:34 GMT
Wonderful, Bixa!
I like to observe children's birthdays too. The things they come up with!
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Post by tod2 on Oct 27, 2011 7:55:02 GMT
What a delightful and VERY interesting photo essay on your weekend activities Bixa! I have viewed the photos several times, going back and forth to catch another glimpse of something I might have missed in the first viewing. I, like others and yourself, found those curvy dolls with fags hanging from the lips, a skull for a head and the most hilarious stance of one foot holding down a bottle of it's fav liquor must puzzling! ;D! ;D! I loved the way you started off with Darla the darling midnight black puppy! She is going to be such good company for you and give you all the doggie love in the world. What a shiny coat already I was delighted to see the 'old-time' game of musical chairs is alive and well and living in Mexico! Thanks so much for thinking of this super little adventure and including a very unusual snap of yourself
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Post by bjd on Oct 27, 2011 8:40:27 GMT
Nice, Bixa. It's good to see that lots of people of all ages get invited to a child's birthday party. Although, given that they rent chairs, it's not such a small thing. Wait until she is 15!
Mexico's Day of the Dead celebrations are certainly more colourful than anything in France. No bikini-clad statuettes here, only chrysanthemums to put on graves.
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Post by bixaorellana on Oct 28, 2011 1:09:18 GMT
Thanks, HW. You'll get to see more kiddy activity soon, as I'm invited to Melissa's school Day of the Dead event. She's going as Wednesday Addams. I have another crass reason for going. I bought two raffle tickets, partly to be nice, & partly because I wouldn't mind winning the plasma tv. Thanks so much, Tod. Not only are musical chairs carried on here, almost all the songs on the kiddy record they were playing are songs I knew as a kid, except of course in English. (the record didn't do a bad job on "Are You Sleeping", but even I recognized they were slaughtering the French language in Frère Jacques) Bjd, if anyone wanted to move here & make a career change, they'd do well to go into renting chairs, tables, awnings, etc. That stuff is always in demand. I don't think there is such a thing as a small gathering here. Interesting that chrysanthemums are the grave flowers in France, as they are in Louisiana. I told one of my plant vendors that. She thought it was odd.
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Post by lola on Oct 30, 2011 16:29:02 GMT
Wonderful, bixa. Imagine living every day with those vibrant colors. The people are beautiful.
What are those medallions towards the top for? Saints, maybe? I like the well worn Hoy Solo sign on the tomatoes.
Watching mailbox daily for the tshirt, I have to wonder if that is a political or ecological message? Just in case I have to explain when I wear it to work.
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