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Post by Don Cuevas on Nov 9, 2013 6:46:40 GMT
Back a few hours ago from Mexico City where,I decided to have some street food once again. There's a modest stand on Calle de Puebla about mid way between Calle Orizaba and Calle Jalapa. Here is a sample of the Super Tacos Guisados Calle de Puebla, Colonia Roma Norte. More, much more, later.
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Post by Don Cuevas on Nov 10, 2013 1:23:59 GMT
More tacos, as promised. Green Eggs, No HamA dark and stormy salsa, yet not that picante.. Calabacitas and queso panela—an easy one.This next one is for advanced taco eaters only. "Rellena" de sangre, or sort of mini blood puddings in salsa.Riñones, etc. Kid Knees.There's more, but this is enough for now. Here's the chef, Arturo:
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Post by Don Cuevas on Nov 10, 2013 15:03:38 GMT
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Post by bixaorellana on Nov 10, 2013 18:53:54 GMT
Great sequence! Our peripatetic pic-taker is dressed rather warmly, isn't he? Was that in Mexico City?
The "dark & stormy" salsa is beautiful, shame it didn't bite.
I really like moronga/rellena/blood sausage in tacos, but would love to have those riñones.
It must be reported that I dined at El Portón here night before last & had quite a nice meal, as did my companion. We were on our way to the movies, so it was the practical option. The waitstaff there is as nice, friendly, & efficient as anyone could ask. The food was fresh, well-prepared, & delivered instantly -- still sizzling. Also, the side salad on my plate of pollo milanesa was much more than the token version I've glumly come to expect. Yes, the puree of potatoes were from flakes, & yes, milanesa is not an exciting menu choice, but we came away full and cheerful.
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Post by bixaorellana on Dec 30, 2013 21:50:51 GMT
I ate at high noon yesterday, Sunday, at my favorite fonda in the Sanchez Pascuas market of Oaxaca. The usual meal sequence in Mexico is desayuno (literally break-fast); almuerzo (sort of like an English breakfast in terms of quantity & meatiness); comida (usually the big meal of the day, eaten @2 pm); and cena (supper). So this was my almuerzo, although for me it was brunch, leaving me set until suppertime.
I never look at the menu here, since I generally go in already knowing what I want. Today I started with chocolate de agua (hot Oaxacan chocolate drink made with water). It's served with a piece of pan de yema (like challah) for dunking. The telera (baguette-like) is for sopping up the sauce of the enchilada I ordered.Fonda spaces are typically stalls with roll-down shutters & spaces for tables in front. But many fondas, such as Doña Deme's, utilize several spaces in a row.
I believe the space on the other side of the wall at the far left is occupied by a welder. You can see parts of other fondas in the next two pictures, but I'm loyal to this one.The old, perhaps original menu has been incorporated into this shrine area tucked into a corner.Other satisfied customers ~But enough sight-seeing. Let's eat!
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Post by Don Cuevas on Dec 31, 2013 1:40:55 GMT
I'll be ready for a meal like that by next week. Where is that mercado? Do I read the menu cover correctly: "Doña Deme"? I located a picture of the kitchen staff: They look dedicated.
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Post by bixaorellana on Dec 31, 2013 9:35:22 GMT
Amazing! How did you find a picture of them? The lady in blue appears to be the jefa of the place. The waiter is maybe her husband, a portly, soft-spoken gentleman.
The market runs between Tinoco y Palacios & Porfirio Diaz, with entrances on both streets. It's seven blocks north of the zócalo.
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Post by Don Cuevas on Dec 31, 2013 12:45:20 GMT
"Amazing! How did you find a picture of them?" Google images. Thanks for the location. We may head up that way, if the border guards at the Zócalo allow us safe passage. But our hotel is very close to the 20 Nov. Mercado in Centro. Is Doña Deme's worth a special trip? In reading the Moon Guide to Oaxaca, plus TA reviews, I've already x'd Doña Elpidia's, on Calle Miguel Cabrera, from my Must Eat At list. It sounds superannuated and really, nothing special. ¿Que opines tú?
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Post by Don Cuevas on Jan 1, 2014 9:36:37 GMT
From the Moon Spotlight Guide to Oaxaca and Valleys: "Starting from the Santo Domingo churchfront, at the corner of Macedonio Alcalá and Allende, walk north, uphill along Macedonio Alcalá three blocks to Humboldt. Turn left and continue two blocks to busy Porfirio Díaz, where, across the street rises a towering fig tree that marks the Mercado Sánchez Pasqua (sic). Cross with care and continue straight past the tree to the entrance of the market. Inside, you’ll first find a squadron of tiny dry goods, clothes, and handicrafts shops, and then a rainbow mix of colorful fruit and vegetable stalls. Continue in the same direction and you’ll arrive at the fondas (food stalls), for which Mercado Sánchez Pasqua is famous, were you can enjoy a homestyle breakfast or a special lunch treat. Recommended by Bixaorellana."
Whipperman, Bruce (2011-10-18). Moon Spotlight Oaxaca Valley (Kindle Locations 397-400). Avalon Travel. Kindle Edition.
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Post by bixaorellana on Jan 8, 2014 4:24:12 GMT
Oh yeah, right. I wouldn't say make a special trip. But if you're up this way & peckish, it's a place to remember. One thing Doña D does right is to put enough of the saucey namesake in her enfrijoladas, enchiladas, etc. At too many places, you're left with stodgy folded tortilla midway through the dish because of stinginess with sauce.
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Post by Don Cuevas on Jan 8, 2014 10:52:27 GMT
(Aside; I was successful a while ago in changing my APIAS skin. It's understated, except it has little whirling pinwheels here and there along the side. It makes me dizzy.) I already posted a picture or two, in another thread, of our breakfast at La Flor de Oaxaca, at Armenta y López 311, Centro, Oaxaca. Mine was a breakfast fit for a long haul truck driver. La Flor de Oaxaca: Enchiladas Oaxaqueñas con Cecina
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Post by Don Cuevas on Jan 8, 2014 15:42:16 GMT
We wanted a simple breakfast this a.m. of tamales Oaxaqueños, so I walked over to the Mercado 20 de Noviembre. The fondas were just setting up, but a few were open. Sofi's was open and her two cute kids touched even my jaded heart. Sofi had tamales Oaxaqueños hot and ready. They seemed expensive to me, at $40 pesos each. I knew that was a tourist price, (and the kids were really cute) but I just wanted to get tamales and get back to our hotel. This was a mistake. Back at the hotel, we opened up the handsome banana leaf wrapper. More handsome tamal wrapper: But once inside that good looking exterior, what we found was dried out, hard masa and a paucity of the ostensible mole Oaxaqueño de Oaxaca. A true ripoff (and I don't use the word ripoff casually.) Fortunately, our freshly squeezed orange-papaya juice combos and freshly ground and brewed coffee from "El Huerto", a juice joint, was top grade.
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Post by bixaorellana on Jan 8, 2014 20:07:36 GMT
Wish I could have waylaid you. I've never had decent food at that market. And I've met Mexican tourists from other states who were downright angry at the quality & prices of the grub served there. On the inside edges of the Juárez market (same mkt, crossing street to the north), there are ladies selling tamales from baskets, probably a better option that will set you back far less. ($40 for one?!). You probably would have had better luck in the zócalo, even.
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Post by Don Cuevas on Jan 9, 2014 14:13:02 GMT
I have fears that the mercados in Oaxaca centro have become tourist oriented legends in their own mind. I recall visiting the famous Aguas Casildas years aggo, and it was just a good, basic aguas frescas and juices stand. We walked by it the other afternoon, and it looks more like a shrine to Casilda than a real business.I found it somewhat creepy. What's in the urns? WAIT! Don't tell me. The good news is that I just went to La Huerta for coffee and juice,and this time got a #20— a Vampiro. This is a delicious blend of orange, beet and carrot juices plus I-don't-know-what-else. (I looked: also pineapple, apple and celery. I feel so effing healthy now.) And what about drinking chocolate? It seems as if there's a Chocolate Mayordomo shop on every corner in Centro. I have the greatest admiration for Mayordomo's core product line, but these branch shops seem to be pimping tourist bait, like milkshakes and chocolate milk powder. WTF?? Nevertheless, I will seek out the old, possibly original Mayordomo shop, I believe on Calle Mina, to stock up for presents to schlep back home. Mayordomo
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Post by Don Cuevas on Feb 7, 2014 16:15:55 GMT
A token taco today; a pair of tacos de pescado, at Mariscos La Güera in Pátzcuaro: (Cross posted in "What's For Lunch" thread.)
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Post by tod2 on Feb 7, 2014 17:21:54 GMT
Never fear Bixa....should we ever get the finance and nerve....and visas, yeah don't forget those..we would want every last darn lowdown on your eat outs!!
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Post by bixaorellana on Feb 8, 2014 4:03:09 GMT
You may have meant that for Don Cuevas, Tod, but I'll take what I can get!
No big deal to get visas to visit Mexico & no bravery needed. Don Cuevas & I live in different states, both fascinating in their own rights, plus with interesting stuff in between. One really magnificent thing that Mexico has is top-notch First- and Luxury-class bus services. You can ride in style to all the places you want to visit.
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Post by tod2 on Feb 8, 2014 6:09:03 GMT
No, it WAS for you in reply to post 196... thanks for the tip on the bus service!
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Post by Don Cuevas on Feb 8, 2014 13:31:49 GMT
Never fear Bixa....should we ever get the finance and nerve....and visas, yeah don't forget those..we would want every last darn lowdown on your eat outs!! Tourist visas into Mexico should be easy and cheap, although I admit that I don't know how the visa regulations apply to SA citizens. Re: nerve; yes, there are some very troubled areas of Mexico, but so far, tourists have rarely if ever been impacted. There are sporadic inconveniences (demonstrations, eg.) in both Oaxaca state and Michoacán state. There are some very conflicted areas in our state of Michoacán which we avoid at present. On our approximately three week trip to Oaxaca from Pátzcuaro via Mexico City, all by bus and taxi, we had no problems.
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Post by tod2 on Feb 8, 2014 17:28:30 GMT
Don & Bixa, just to ask one more question for future reference - The bus service...Are these single or double deck luxury buses with toilet facilities on board? Just curious.
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Post by bixaorellana on Feb 8, 2014 18:54:24 GMT
The first class buses with which I'm most familiar ( ADO) have one toilet per bus in their regular first class. Ritzier options provide you with a beverage, earbuds, a blanket, two toilets (men, women), and sometimes even a sandwich or snack pack. This blog post gives a good overview of what to expect.
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Post by Don Cuevas on Feb 8, 2014 20:32:43 GMT
The first class buses with which I'm most familiar ( ADO) have one toilet per bus in their regular first class. Ritzier options provide you with a beverage, earbuds, a blanket, two toilets (men, women), and sometimes even a sandwich or snack pack. This blog post gives a good overview of what to expect. Our recent trip from Pátzcuaro to Mexico City was on a double decker bus (Autovias Lines) and we were given almost nothing in the way of food or beverage, not even water. Fortunately, we always go well supplied with our own sandwiches and vintage Boing! fruit drinks. The leg of the journey from Mexico City to Oaxaca, 6 1/2 hours duration of a First Class (not the superior GL or Platino) nada, absolutemente nada food nor water. A vendor came on board and we bought beverages and snacks from him, plus we had a Subway Turkey and Cheese Sub in our carryons, from the food court at the TAPO bus station. A few hours down the road, we had a stop at a wayfarer's rest, and I bought an instant coffee. I passed over the attractive liter jars of colorful pickled chiles and vegetables as too heavy. The return trip from Oaxaca to Mexico City on an ADO GL bus (next to the top ADO class in comfort) again, nada, ninguna chingada comida, ni cacahuates. We bought another Subway sandwich, enough for two, and pale green lime sodas in the ADO First Class Bus Station just before departure. In general, the on board bathrooms of ADO are superior to those of AutoVias, as in the ADO buses, you don't need Astronaut training in how to enter and leave the Relief Capsule Module. Physical injury can result within the cramped confines of the AutoVias Relief Modules.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 28, 2014 18:08:59 GMT
Here is how they try to make us crave Mexican Tex-Mex food in France.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 28, 2014 18:31:02 GMT
If you have Danny Trejo cooking for you, you better eat it and like it!
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Post by Don Cuevas on Mar 21, 2014 11:07:11 GMT
Tacos de cabeza, salsa verde, a cup of spicy consomé; a great pick me up breakfast eaten at a puesto near the railroad crossing at Tzurumutaro, Michoacán. Sorry, no photos.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 21, 2014 14:30:30 GMT
It's that time of year again in front of my building.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 21, 2014 16:47:16 GMT
Ah, yes, I remember seeing a shopping cart grill outside of the Lamarck-Caulaincourt metro. Classic.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 21, 2014 16:57:39 GMT
We have dozens of those all through the 18th arrondissement. This vendor and I exchange greetings every day since he is right in front of my door. Yesterday I made the mistake of telling him "it smells good" as I walked by and he wanted to give me a grilled cob free of charge. Unfortunately, I don't care much for corn (and corn on the cob even less), so I declined.
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Post by lagatta on Aug 21, 2014 17:29:35 GMT
I don't see "perro" though. Thanks for the map. I have to set out and buy some tortillas - the shop where I like them best was closed on Tuesday; hope they are open now. I don't remember the name, so I can't phone.
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Post by bixaorellana on Sept 10, 2014 3:49:13 GMT
Snack wagon ~
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