|
Post by bixaorellana on Nov 3, 2011 5:53:06 GMT
Oh boy, now we're going to sing some scary songs! Tombs here, tombs there, tombs, tombs, tombs, ha ha ha ha ha. The skeletons come out dancing -- whooo -- [can't catch] -- whooo. The teachers and some of the parents are readying the refreshments in the classrooms. I'll go to Melissa's classroom, as she's who invited me. You all remember Melissa the birthday girl, right? Here she's channeling Wednesday of the Addams Family. And the band plays on ~~ Check out the names, which are hardly classically Spanish: The lady on the right above is furiously frothing hot chocolate. Here it's being poured. Everyone gets chocolate and pan de yema. And there you have it -- a nice party indeed.
|
|
|
Post by bixaorellana on Nov 3, 2011 8:12:44 GMT
Are you all sick to death of this death stuff yet? Now, in thread-time, it's afternoon of October 31. This is the night that the cemeteries in Xoxocotlán hold their vigils. These have become quite well known, to the point that tour buses show up. I've been at night before (see report from '09) and it's very dark and crowded. Anyway, I wanted to watch people prepare the graves and it's a beautiful afternoon. Here we are at the larger, newer of the two cemeteries ~ Everything's not set up outside yet -- no food so far! -- but there are some flower sellers ~ You can see the ambulance behind the flower stand, and here are the firemen ~ It's obvious that they're heroes, every one ~ Since all of you are now well versed in Oaxacan days of the dead traditions, you know what this is ~ So now we're inside. Entering at the same time is a family prepared to work ~ Looking around, we can see that some families have already been very busy ~ Before we go any further, I have to warn you all that I love graveyards and I love this holiday, so brace yourselves ~
|
|
|
Post by bixaorellana on Nov 3, 2011 8:32:37 GMT
|
|
|
Post by bjd on Nov 3, 2011 11:21:19 GMT
These last ones look like recent graves. Do they get special attention? And do you think things have become different now that they attract tour buses?
|
|
|
Post by bixaorellana on Nov 3, 2011 17:46:31 GMT
Bjd, you might be right that those are recent, certainly the one in the foreground looks just-mounded. It's hard to tell, as there was heavy work being done on some of the graves. You can see the boy carrying a shovel in that photo above of the family entering the cemetery, and I saw much hacking and digging in this hard dirt to clean graves of weeds. The woman on the right of that recent grave picture is going at the dirt with an iron bar. The grave with the blocks might be in the process of getting fixed up. I've visited this cemetery on October 31 several times over the years, and I'm sure the traditional way the people celebrate has not changed at all. There's certainly awareness of the throngs which can be seen in the very pleasant and helpful cops everywhere, the emergency crews standing by, and probably many more food vendors than before. There may be a small charge to get in if you're foreign looking, but I suspect that's just ad hoc entrepreneurism. I have to admit that I have an unpleasantly snobby habit of mentally sneering at people who don't level their front-yard birdbaths or who sprinkle lawn ornaments about. However, the very sincere naive attempts to show the departed all the love possible are somehow totally beautiful and heartbreaking. I had a knee-jerk "oh god!" reaction to this tomb, then realized it had been built for a child. I had a revelation as I walked around admiring the way the graves were ornamented. Every year I notice more and more Halloween items for sale at this time of year, which seems a shame. However, in this cemetery I realized that such stuff is simply looked upon as cool merchandise to be incorporated into the general theme. You'll see what I mean as we look at more grave decorations.
|
|
|
Post by bixaorellana on Nov 3, 2011 18:58:36 GMT
Before we go any further, you all get to see some evidence of how slowly I can respond. The wind was blowing and I kept getting snatches of band music. I thought that was a little odd, as it was too early for any family gatherings, bands, etc. At any rate, I worked my way over in that direction and saw a large number of people near the band. I started videoing, then realized the band was playing "Amor Eterno" which is often played near the end of a funeral. Scanning the scene, I caught a glimpse of movement. You'll see the precise instant it finally hit me that it was flying dirt and I stopped intruding on the burial. You'll notice the same color of pink over and over. This color actually has a name -- rosa Mexicano -- and is extremely popular and prevalent, including for interior walls of houses. (& no, I don't know why the noun & adjective don't agree)
|
|
|
Post by lola on Nov 3, 2011 22:10:31 GMT
Just wonderful, Bixa. I love the continuity of generations.
|
|
|
Post by bixaorellana on Nov 4, 2011 0:08:18 GMT
Thank you, Lola. I didn't even think of that in the last photo until you mentioned it. And speaking of generations, there are some sad parts coming up. I was drawn to the amusing paper Catrinas, then saw the young man sitting there, so asked if it was okay to take a picture. He told me to take as many as I liked. As I clicked, he told me to come on into the space with them. That's when I saw his wife, curled up in the corner, attempting to smile at me but looking immensely sad. Then I moved around and saw the whole grave. Swallowing hard, I asked "Is this your little boy?" and they nodded yes. I snapped off this one blurry shot before bidding the child and his parents goodbye and escaping before I broke down.
|
|
|
Post by bixaorellana on Nov 4, 2011 2:10:24 GMT
And not to hasten them to early graves, but these next two made me think of certain anyporters. This one's easy to figure out: And this one reminded me of Mark, because of the crusader/holy land/history aspect,or maybe because of his noble character: This is quite interesting -- they're censing the grave with incense in that little clay burner you can see in the first picture. Reply #15 talks about this very thing existing before the time of the Spaniards. Those clay incense burners are ubiquitous here and are an ancient design. I have legs ending in serpent faces from two pre-hispanic incense burners. Things like that are often dug up accidentally at the base of Monte Alban. This guy was using one of those little ice cream tasting spoons to sprinkle the colored powder with such precision ~ As you can see, it's getting darker in the cemetery. It's rather magical though, with singing and guitar music filtering through the dusk. (video was lightened to show detail) Adding to the magic, candles are twinkling as more and more graves are lit ~ It's tempting to stay and watch the darkness and the families gather. However, I've got my little dog with me, so will just go peek into the old city cemetery, then go home. (stay tuned, folks :: there's even more!)
|
|
|
Post by bixaorellana on Nov 4, 2011 6:53:29 GMT
So I walk down to the town center. It's quite pleasant, with people in a festive mood strolling around, although there are no crowds yet. I peer into an open doorway at an old man putting the finishing touches on his home's altar. Bread of the dead everywhere ~ A marigold petal path leads to the altar in the DIF offices. (DIF = basic social services organization of the govt. of Mexico.)I'm right in town now and near the exhibition area. Many stands are ready & waiting to serve cemetery visiting needs. The food stands are still setting up, and restaurants are gearing up to feed people en masse. Every time I've ever viewed the tapetes before, it's always been in a shuffling throng. Right now I almost have them to myself. That would be really great if I actually liked them. Yes, it requires a certain skill to produce them, but don't they remind you of sheet cakes from the giants' supermarket? The altar set up in the exhibition area ~
|
|
|
Post by bixaorellana on Nov 4, 2011 7:04:38 GMT
Admittedly, some of the tapetes are quite nice or interesting. The Virgin of Solitude, patroness of Oaxaca is very well done ~ Some kind of pre-hispanic myth or symbolism? Ahh, now this one ....... this one is really cool!
|
|
|
Post by bixaorellana on Nov 4, 2011 7:11:01 GMT
Wandering around some more before entering the graveyard, which will be as dark as a tomb, to coin a phrase. This display is not set up just for tonight. This is the florist's regular store & there are always flowers arrayed out on the street, making it a pleasant corner to pass. Here's an exhibition of children's drawings and paintings with death as the theme ~ Some adult work here, too ~
|
|
|
Post by bixaorellana on Nov 4, 2011 7:25:48 GMT
The big gate to the cemetery seems to have been freshened up for the occasion. Trying to avoid pointing the camera where there were any people, I snapped a few flash pictures. They came out ugly and glary, but you get an idea of how much older and graveyard-y this cemetery is. With enormous difficulty, I pick my way over to the ruined church in the middle of the cemetery. This place is roofless and properly spooky ....... and completely infested with Norteamericanos here on some kind of photo tour. One of the photo group very thoughtfully shined a key chain flashlight to help me get out of there without falling or breaking an ankle.
|
|
|
Post by bixaorellana on Nov 4, 2011 7:34:52 GMT
Now I'm off to the main square to see what's going on there. There are bunches of excited kids in traditional dress, which probably means some kind of dancing later. Speaking of dancing, here's a wedding party in full swing in the middle of the square, lit by moving lights. Ready to wend my way home, I come across another marigold path ~ This path leads to the altar set up by the municipal employees. It's beautiful ~ And to end the night, giant wall paintings ~ The next day I didn't go do anything except for getting candy for the children who came around trick or treating, local style. They come in a group and a car follows them playing music because they have to dance for their treats. So, there's only one more day left to show, if anyone is still with me at this juncture. Tomorrow this thread gets wrapped up with a visit to Oaxaca's big municipal cemetery on All Souls day.
|
|
|
Post by bjd on Nov 4, 2011 9:04:08 GMT
There is a Oaxacan Resistance Movement?
|
|
|
Post by mich64 on Nov 4, 2011 15:06:04 GMT
I am enjoying reading all the traditions that come along with the celebration Bixa, and was so sad to see the picture with the parents are their departed child and how they welcomed you into their grief to show you their display of love and devotion to their child. It really highlighted the intent of the festival to me. Cheers, Mich
|
|
|
Post by lola on Nov 4, 2011 15:12:19 GMT
The level of artistry, the wit, and the feeling for humanity are moving. What a culture!
|
|
|
Post by bixaorellana on Nov 4, 2011 18:29:45 GMT
There is a Oaxacan Resistance Movement? Oh -- heavens, yes, Bjd. It's a hotbed here because there is so much to protest and resist. Some background I posted on this forum: La Lucha Sigue, Pt.1. And since you speak Spanish, Radio Plantón will give you some insights into the ongoing struggle and problems. You will undoubtedly remember the events of 2006 in Oaxaca, which was global news. An artsy depiction, but real photos and a real feel for how it was here: youtube video. ... how they welcomed you into their grief to show you their display of love and devotion to their child. It really highlighted the intent of the festival to me. And your profound understanding and succinctly poetic expression of that made me feel that making this thread was really worthwhile. Thank you, Mich. The level of artistry, the wit, and the feeling for humanity are moving. What a culture! And you as well, Lola. Since you have those attributes in abundance yourself, I eagerly await the day that you come here with your sketchpad to immerse yourself.
|
|
|
Post by Deleted on Nov 4, 2011 18:50:06 GMT
This is by far the best holiday of the year, obviously. How can they have any energy left for Christmas? Or do they just ignore it?
Don't worry about anybody getting bored. We all just keep wondering "what is she going to show us next?"
|
|
|
Post by bixaorellana on Nov 5, 2011 17:20:33 GMT
I agree that it's the best holiday of the year, probably because it's so profoundly a Mexican holiday. The way that the introduced Christianity was folded into the existing beliefs and traditons is beautiful. As for your last sentence ~~ I hope you'll still be as gracious when you see what an artsy-fartsy frenzy I went into at the cemetery. But seriously, I decided that since threads in this forum are all meant to be records and informative, no matter how personal, that this one will just have lots and lots and lots of pictures. 3-D life has hampered my adding new pictures so far, but I'll put 'em up as I process them. Here we go ~~
|
|
|
Post by bixaorellana on Nov 5, 2011 17:39:48 GMT
On November 2, All Souls day, I got to the big downtown Oaxaca cemetery a little before 2 o'clock. The nighttime vigil at this cemetery is on November 1. It's fun, but very crowded. On All Souls day families stream in and there is visiting and picnicking all day. So, we'll see the aftermath of last night's altar competition, plus a glorious day of happily celebrating departed loved ones. I love the area around the cemetery, which has all kinds of businesses geared towards death rituals -- coffin stores, monument makers, florists. This tiny store had the word "Radiators" over the lintel and no live people in it.
|
|
|
Post by lola on Nov 5, 2011 17:58:12 GMT
Thank you dear Bixa. And double of the same to you. I might have to bring the old man, though, and a dtr or two, so scope out cheap hotels.
We're invited to a costume barn dance tonight in an actual barn loft, with hay bales, dance caller and the whole bit. The theme is Day of the Dead. Inspired by this thread I envisioned making myself a crown of marigolds, but I have less still blooming than I thought. So I'm going to use marigolds, red fresh cayenne peppers, and the last of the red roses.
|
|
|
Post by bixaorellana on Nov 5, 2011 18:03:45 GMT
Of course there's food ~ But let's go on in. Just inside the entrance, we get a hint of the hordes that will be coming and going all day and into the evening. A little background: This is officially the Panteón de San Miguel although universally referred to as the Panteón General. It was created in 1777 although it fell into disrepair in later years. During a cholera epidemic in 1833, it began to be used again. In 1834 a chapel in the Tuscan style was erected and a temporary wall. The present walls of the cemetery encompass four galleries with one hundred arches enclosing 2,355 sepulchers set into the walls. sourceWe'll look around a little, then go into the galleries.
|
|
|
Post by bixaorellana on Nov 5, 2011 18:25:39 GMT
Oh Lola ~~ your crown sounds brilliant and so much better than only marigolds. Yes, yes -- bring the whole family. You'll regret not sharing it with them otherwise.
|
|
|
Post by bixaorellana on Nov 5, 2011 18:34:37 GMT
|
|
|
Post by Deleted on Nov 5, 2011 18:42:51 GMT
It's interesting how some of small altars on tables or wall-mounted are extremely reminiscent of the Indian Ganesha style altars and also the Chinese ancestor altars, and even the gypsy decorations that I often see on tombs in France.
The design and the use of candles and the little bits and pieces put on display seem to be universal to all of our cultures.
|
|
|
Post by nycgirl on Nov 5, 2011 20:53:10 GMT
I am loving this thread! Seeing the graves of children is so heart-breaking, though. I don't think I could stand it.
I am amazed at how festive the scene at the municipal cemetery is!
|
|
|
Post by bixaorellana on Nov 5, 2011 22:13:19 GMT
Every time I see pictures of festivals in India, I think of the ones here because of the marigolds, which got to India from Mexico. Kerouac, I think you just gave yourself a great idea for a thread. I'd love to see gypsy tomb decorations. Thank you, NYCGirl! Yes, it's true that the force of the parents' loss hits with painful empathetic force looking at those little graves. Yet isn't it wonderful how jolly this holiday is? / + / + / + / + / + / + / + / + / + / + / + / + / + / + / + / + / + / +We're still making the rounds in the galleries, peering at the sights within and without. Many of the open niches are up high. All of the niches, occupied or not, have been given a candle. Morbidly I peer into all the empty ones on the lower levels. You know how cemeteries are considered to be scary? Well, it's true. Just look at this electrical jerry rigging and think how many things might have been attached to it last night and how many people must have brushed against it in the last 24 hours. Hey, what's this ahead? We've struck gold in the altar department! This altar was sponsored by the hotel association and is marvelous. More pictures of it follow.
|
|
|
Post by bixaorellana on Nov 5, 2011 22:24:19 GMT
|
|
|
Post by bixaorellana on Nov 5, 2011 22:35:33 GMT
|
|