Repairing books
Sept 18, 2009 18:04:13 GMT
Post by bixaorellana on Sept 18, 2009 18:04:13 GMT
This method can save loved-to-death cookbooks and the like. Absolutely do not do this to any volumes that might be valuable. Take those to professional restorers.
This is my method, which I've used successfully on an oversized paperback cookbook, an ancient hardbound Spanish/English dictionary, and the like.
Suggested equipment:
• Silicone, preferably in the small cost-ineffective tubes, as they are easier to work with and control
• Regular white glue, such as Elmer’s or wood glue
• Scissors
• Bias tape, or book repair fabric, if available
• Scotch tape, invisible
• Rubber bands
• Newspaper or other material to protect your work surface
• Popsicle sticks, Q-tips, toothpicks, anything that might help in smearing excess glue & silicone
Set up your work surface and examine the book to be repaired.
Determine the simplest, most long-lasting solution to the problem. For instance, if a small section of a sewn volume is coming away from the rest of the text, some tape might be enough. However, if you think the tape may tear at the pages later, you can either dab some silicone into the space between the binding and the pages, and/or weld the section coming away onto the next intact page, using opened bias tape coated with white glue. If using the silicone, keep the book closed with rubber bands, and set it on its spine, supported on either side.
For extensive damage, such as when all or most of the pages are coming away from the binding, you’ll want to use silicone.
First, make sure groups of loose pages are in order. Set each group in ascending order from left to right above your work space. This is not a hard and fast rule. Depending on the size of the loose chunks, you may decide to start from the back, or even the middle.
Open the book to the first missing section, apply silicone to the binding, and insert the proper group of pages. Make sure the pages have been squared up as tightly as possible before inserting. Close the cover as you gently but firmly push the pages into the binding. Now, lightly bang the book top & bottom on the work surface to square the pages into it. Then bang the spine part firmly on the work surface in order that the pages will set down into the spine. Hold the spine section of the book tightly for a minute or two in order to let the silicone set somewhat before you proceed to the next section.
Continue inserting the loose sections as above. If pages have come entirely loose, put them in their proper order and treat them as part of a section. Be sure you repeat the banging and the holding of the spine after each insertion.
Depending on the size of the book, the material and weight of the cover, etc., it may be helpful, after the insertion of the first section, to work with the book setting on its spine.
When all sections are siliconed into place, clean any excess silicone off the book. Carefully carry it to a bookcase and lay it on its spine between other books. Without pushing or pulling on the repaired book, force the books on either side as tightly against it as possible. You’ll probably have to pull some books out and replace them with others in order to achieve the desired tightness. When the repaired book is sufficiently sustained, pile books of an appropriate thickness on top of the exposed edge of the pages. Leave in place as long as possible, up to twenty-four hours.
When you pull the book back out, you’ll want to see what other repairs or cosmetic actions need to be taken. Sometimes pages protrude too far out, in which case they can be carefully cut. Spot repairs of glue or silicone may be needed. In the case of abused hardbacks, the end papers may need gluing back onto the covers.
This is my method, which I've used successfully on an oversized paperback cookbook, an ancient hardbound Spanish/English dictionary, and the like.
Suggested equipment:
• Silicone, preferably in the small cost-ineffective tubes, as they are easier to work with and control
• Regular white glue, such as Elmer’s or wood glue
• Scissors
• Bias tape, or book repair fabric, if available
• Scotch tape, invisible
• Rubber bands
• Newspaper or other material to protect your work surface
• Popsicle sticks, Q-tips, toothpicks, anything that might help in smearing excess glue & silicone
Set up your work surface and examine the book to be repaired.
Determine the simplest, most long-lasting solution to the problem. For instance, if a small section of a sewn volume is coming away from the rest of the text, some tape might be enough. However, if you think the tape may tear at the pages later, you can either dab some silicone into the space between the binding and the pages, and/or weld the section coming away onto the next intact page, using opened bias tape coated with white glue. If using the silicone, keep the book closed with rubber bands, and set it on its spine, supported on either side.
For extensive damage, such as when all or most of the pages are coming away from the binding, you’ll want to use silicone.
First, make sure groups of loose pages are in order. Set each group in ascending order from left to right above your work space. This is not a hard and fast rule. Depending on the size of the loose chunks, you may decide to start from the back, or even the middle.
Open the book to the first missing section, apply silicone to the binding, and insert the proper group of pages. Make sure the pages have been squared up as tightly as possible before inserting. Close the cover as you gently but firmly push the pages into the binding. Now, lightly bang the book top & bottom on the work surface to square the pages into it. Then bang the spine part firmly on the work surface in order that the pages will set down into the spine. Hold the spine section of the book tightly for a minute or two in order to let the silicone set somewhat before you proceed to the next section.
Continue inserting the loose sections as above. If pages have come entirely loose, put them in their proper order and treat them as part of a section. Be sure you repeat the banging and the holding of the spine after each insertion.
Depending on the size of the book, the material and weight of the cover, etc., it may be helpful, after the insertion of the first section, to work with the book setting on its spine.
When all sections are siliconed into place, clean any excess silicone off the book. Carefully carry it to a bookcase and lay it on its spine between other books. Without pushing or pulling on the repaired book, force the books on either side as tightly against it as possible. You’ll probably have to pull some books out and replace them with others in order to achieve the desired tightness. When the repaired book is sufficiently sustained, pile books of an appropriate thickness on top of the exposed edge of the pages. Leave in place as long as possible, up to twenty-four hours.
When you pull the book back out, you’ll want to see what other repairs or cosmetic actions need to be taken. Sometimes pages protrude too far out, in which case they can be carefully cut. Spot repairs of glue or silicone may be needed. In the case of abused hardbacks, the end papers may need gluing back onto the covers.