Revised: Advice on South Africa and Namibia

[tod2]

Today I surfed around for hotels close to the northern entrance gates to Kruger. Trying to get to Punda Maria from our home is going to be challenging - and exhausting to boot!
We have decided to make a one day drive from our house, leaving around 5am, to Phalaborwa town.
Here there are about 8 nice hotels/B&B's to choose from. I looked for price, then what we got for it, then viewed the photos and comments. I did this on Booking.com, then phoned Sunbird Lodge direct. The price was the same so went ahead and got a double room overlooking the lush tropical garden, including breakfast the next morning.
This will let us get a good night's rest before entering the park and making our way to Sirheni Camp by lunchtime or late afternoon - if we see something dramatic on the way ;D. I have only noticed now that the stove at the camp is gas - no electrical plugs - didn't mention a fridge so I will have to just check on the fridge status. I'm pretty sure they must have a gas fridge! Otherwise we will be going to Punda Maria camp to get a lot of ice after two days. We take all our own supplies and keep them frozen in an eski. Not really necessary as each main camp has a supermarket of varying degrees, but when taking my own meat I know it's edible!

BTW - Phalaborwa is pronounced Pal - a - bora.

[nycboy]

Jul 5, 2012 9:53:50 GMT tod2 said:

I have just read through The Wild Dog Safari itinerary and it brought back all the memories of our wonderful trip! For the money I think it is excellent!!
nycboy - I got the idea you and the Mrs. were going to drive this and camp out yourselves. (other side of the road and all ) On a guided tour like this you have all the stress taken out of the transport side and can truly sit back and soak it all up. OK, we spent 14 days there but were also using our own vehicle so my husband was always at the wheel ( I can't remember driving at all).

It does sound excellent for the money. If we were to do this on our own paying for a rental car, gas, campsites, and food, we'd be getting up there anyway. How do they make money? Unfortunately I'm not sure if their times work for us as they sit right in the middle of our trip. To be determined...

Jul 5, 2012 9:53:50 GMT tod2 said:

Kruger: Your plan sounds very good. I was hoping you would spot that 'sleep out' in the hide! Also it is right near the entrance gate of Phalaborwa, so no long slow drive to your check-in.

That's what I was thinking, since we'd be coming from Joburg that day.

Jul 5, 2012 9:53:50 GMT tod2 said:

I want you to get out a detailed map of Kruger and look at the roads situation surrounding Olifants camp and compare it to the Lataba camp. You should immediately notice that you have only one main route to and from Olifants ( not counting the little side dirt roads ).
Now look at Letaba - You can go three different ways and come back to camp three different ways on a main artery road. The camp itself is nicer, and nothing stops you calling in at Olifants to see the view over the river. It's very far down and in the distance so after an hour you would have had time to get out the binocs and try and find a hippo or elephants. We have stayed there and had the hut that sticks out furtherest away on the side of the hill. Unfortunately there was a great big fence right in front of us and a footpath to the locals/staff(maybe) houses so an endless stream of people interrupting the view.

Great advice and confirms my fears after looking at the Oliphants pictures; the camp is too far away from the river.

Jul 5, 2012 9:53:50 GMT tod2 said:

Letaba is lush (palms) and also has an area looking over the river closer-by plus a bird hide near the camp. Little side roads branch off like veins and give you the opportunity to go one direction and come back another every-time you leave camp. It also has a swimming pool in the bush campers area apart from a main pool.

This sounds much, much better. Thank you.

Jul 5, 2012 9:53:50 GMT tod2 said:

Now, you asked about the 4X4 out of Satara. Are you hiring a 4X4 vehicle then? or is this a tour like you would go on a ranger drive in the early morning? ( 5 AM IS THE VERY BEST TIME TO SEE ANIMALS!)
Don't think the animals like to hide away in the bush where the little dirt roads are - the animals LOVE the heat the tarred road gives off and are always lazing on it. They all have a tendency to want to pee and poo on it too! Must be something to do with other old smells or the texture or heat of the tar......who knows.
I will ask a ranger if I can pin one down ;D

The plan was to hire a 4x4 so we could do a trail like this on our own to mix things up and find some privacy, but if the surcharge for the hire is too much I'm inclined to skip it. We would like to do the ranger led drive early too. And we have every intention of departing as soon as the gate opens.

Jul 5, 2012 9:53:50 GMT tod2 said:

Satara is an excellent camp because apart from being the second biggest (Skukuza first) it's position allows you to travel in all directions spanning the width of the park. Don't eat in the main restaurant - it's hideous , poor food, and very expensive.

Good advice, if we're going to pay a premium for food we'd like it to be good! My other desire for Satara is it's cat country and I've always been a cat person.

Jul 5, 2012 9:53:50 GMT tod2 said:

Definitely definitely book now for Lower Sabie Camp! It has a large dam on the doorstep and you can make it back to camp in 3min after catching a sunset. Gates to all camps close at around 6.30pm this time of the year and you will be fined if late.

I'm usually anal about arriving places on time but I'm curious, how much is the late fee?

Jul 5, 2012 9:53:50 GMT tod2 said:

Please remember not to get out of your vehicle unless in a designated place or picnic site. If seen, you will most likely be photographed from another tourists iPhone (or camera) the photo sent to a ranger's office or exit gate and when you try to leave the park they will apprehend you, fine you,and ban you!
That's not to say I don't get out my door...but I do it in very out-of-the-way places, cut the engine so I can hear if a vehicle approaches, and quick as I can staying right next to my open door, have a nature break ;D

;D How strict is it with leaning out your window or sunroof to take pictures? I understand the animals are accustomed to cars, not people but I don't want to shoot through a window either.

Jul 5, 2012 9:53:50 GMT tod2 said:

The most daring and STUPID thing we have ever witnessed is two girls and a guy sitting in on one of the many large rocks in the crocodile river, having lunch! Yes, they got reported alright.
People that flaunt the rules spoil it for everyone else.

Unbelievable! I'm more afraid of crocodiles than anything else in the park.

Jul 5, 2012 9:53:50 GMT tod2 said:

8 days is plenty time for a first visit - most overseas visitors spend around three days but then they have to get pretty lucky with game viewing!

We may cut it down depending on the rest of our plans but I wouldn't want any less than 5 days. We'll see how that goes!

[nycboy]

Jul 5, 2012 16:24:37 GMT tod2 said:

BTW - Phalaborwa is pronounced Pal - a - bora.

Thanks, we're going to be embarrassing ourselves enough speaking "American", we should try to get some of the local pronunciation down.

Can't wait to hear how your trip goes.

[nycboy]

When making online reservations I notice that the total is substantially more than the total of the rooms, is it including the 192R per day, per person tariff for non-SA citizens?

[nycboy]

It was.

[nycboy]

And I just discovered the Wild Card passes, looks like any more than 5 days is worthwhile for the international one.

[tod2]

WILD CARD - Absolutely! We have one because our visits are about twice a year and usually about 10- 14days.

I have never booked on line. I always go through to the SANPARKS reservation office in Pretoria. I like speaking to a real person and get instant answers to availability of chalets. You will have no problem booking on line for a campsite as long as it is sooner than later. January is school holidays for all schools in South Africa. Especially book that Sable Hide because it is popular with teenagers - you shouldn't find any old fogies there....like us ;D Kruger is advertising bookings for 2013 and offering those discounts so don't wait too long.

Yes, Olifants camp is up a long steep road and is perched on the top of the hill. The river is right down in the valley. It's a big river and very pretty to look at. Do go there while in the park. Actually my advice is go to as many camps as you can armed with a map of Kruger and makes scribble notes as to what you think. This will come in handy if you plan another trip in the future.
We actually makes notes all the time about where we have seen a kill, a hyena lair, (a pee place) or where there was a nice big tree to park beneath while having a drink or breakfast sandwich.
This comes in mighty handy when on the road again.

If you are able to afford hiring a 4X4 you will be in the pound seats! The thing about viewing animals from a vehicle is that you must be able to SEE THEM. The higher off the ground you are the more advantage for photos and observing the animals.
Of course many people arrive in a small stick shift and make do. If this will be the case for you, I suggest you definitely take a few drives with a camp ranger ( you will have others with you) Grab the seats right at the back as they are the highest and you won't have anyone behind you. This way you may see a lot more as the ranger is in contact , walkie talkie-wise, with all the other viewing vehicles and so is alerted to a kill etc.etc.
I often slow down and stop a vehicle coming the other direction and ask if they have seen anything interesting. This sometimes works in reverse and we see something special like lions, cheetahs, or joy of joys - a leopard, and nobody comes along the same road for all the time we are watching the animal!

I've never thought of Satara as 'cat country' and do note they mention lions on their list of game spotting animals. I do know that Lower Sabie has a pride or maybe two prides of resident lions. They are called The Lions Of Crocodile River. We nearly always see them when staying in the area.
One drive along the Crocodile River road, which runs all along the riverside for most of the way, we saw two female lions walking towards us. They drew level and passed right by our vehicle without a second glance. We drove ahead a bit and did a Uturn and traveled next to them until they got the zig with us and padded off into the bush. Only us and one other vehicle saw them.

I want to talk to you about sticking to the rules of the park in all respects.
You can travel with your windows down.....but use your head and wind them up when baboons or monkeys are in the road because these are opportunists and will try and grab food - they can smell anything! It's fine to pull over and have your window down while watching the antics of the babies in a tree next to you. Its not when big male baboons walk next to the vehicle.
We have stuck half a torso out of the sun-roof of our car but be warned - don't do it at a kill or anywhere there are other parks board vehicles as they will instantly fine you or worse.
We do it when on a lonely road trying to get a good angle on a bird in a tree. Something like that. Never when lions, leopards or cheetahs or elephants are near.
You will see people flaunting the rules in weird and wonderful ways. Getting out and changing drivers with the bush right next to them. Getting out and retrieving a cold coke or whatever.
My advice is when you leave camp take a moment to check: Are maps at hand, is the cold box with our food on the back seat not in the trunk, do we have the camera bag on the seat not in an inaccessible place, etc etc.

We carry a small sandbag ( actually a wheatybag used for heating and putting on sore muscles) to rest the camera on through a window. You can get small tripods too. My husband has invented an aluminum 'table top' which has a slot that slided onto the glass of the window. This means you can adjust the window to the correct height for the shot. It is small and very portable and invaluable! If you like I will send you a photo and you can easily make one.

You asked about the fine for being late. It could be a wink and a wave, if you are 2-5min late, it could be a slap on the wrist or hefty fine if you are 20-30min late, and it could be a reason to kick you out the park AND fine you if you do it more than once. They keep everything on record.....like the New York cops
I often wonder what would happen if a vehicle got stuck (puncture) your cell phone's battery is dead or you are out of range,(there a numerous 'dead' zones' in the park), and you are on a lonely dirt road, 40km from your camp.....I don't wonder any longer as it happened to us! Luckily our vehicle has steel band Tyre's or what they call Run Flat Tyre's, so we only just by the skin of our teeth made it back to camp. What if we hadn't? What if, not a soul came along the same road? Nobody at camp would know if you are there or not - there's no check-in system at the gates. You come and go as you please from opening time to closing time. Yes, I've often wondered if that situation has happened to people.
The reason they put the restriction on driving in the park after dark is because it is highly dangerous. If you hit an elephant or even smaller animal it wouldn't be good.
Also, lets face it, at least everyone is safe and sound in one place.

[Deleted]

You people are killing me with all this fantastic information when I am stuck in boring Paris!

[nycgirl]

Tod, thank you so much for all this fantastic info! We're booking camps now. The hide is filled, but I'm going to keep checking and hope for a cancellation.

Kerouac, you know very well that Paris is far from boring! (Not many wild animals, though. )

[nycboy]

We've gone ahead and booked most of the trip. Unfortunately Sable Hide is booked for our arrival night but I'm going to keep trying back. Our 2nd and 3rd night are camping in Letaba, followed by camping in Satara for two nights, then an aircon hut at Lower Sabie for the final two nights. It's a relief to have accommodation booked as they were getting bought up (especially LS). Sound good?

When you say stop in at other camps is it typical that you'll get lunch at a different camp while out on your drive?

Pee place? For the animals?...

The price difference really is steep between the SUV and car, going to have to put some thought into that.

Thank you for the advice on the rules and yes, I'd love to see your husbands window "tripod".

[tod2]

Jul 6, 2012 20:44:33 GMT nycboy said:

When you say stop in at other camps is it typical that you'll get lunch at a different camp while out on your drive?

Pee place? For the animals?...

They pee in full view....I mark my 'Call of Nature'hideouts

We often call in at other camps for a restroom, fuel or use their
Day Visitors picnic spots.
We always set off with something to eat later for breakfast. This includes a flask which takes 4 cups of coffee. Sometimes you are in the middle of nowhere and feel like a second cup later in the day.
In the plastic container (or supermarket bag)on the back seat are also wet face clothes, a toilet roll - taken from the endless supply they give you, and maybe lunch as well if we have cooked too much steak the previous night & a little salad. That goes in a small cool bag with drinks & water.
If we don't take supplies we plan a route which will allow us to swing by another camp which has a restaurant or supermarket.
We often have lunch , just burgers and chips, at AFSAAL. Its one of several picnic spots that has a cafe and souvinirs and can be approached from 4 different ways.
The take-away food offered is not of a high standard. You will eat like kings if you take your own with you. Even if you sit under a tree (IN YOUR VEHICLE OF COURSE) it beats buying shitty food.

If SABLE Overnight hide is full, have you considered staying the first and second night at LETABA, leaving to go a little further north and sleep at SHIPANDANI overnight hide for the third night. Then motor slowly down to Satara for your next two nights? Very easily achieved.

[nycboy]

I read in a few places that Shipandani wasn't worth it, could they be wrong?

[tod2]

Nycboy - A lot depends on whether or not there is water. If the dam has dried up in front of a bird hide it is useless going there. We have been to Kruger on two occassions when the whole park was in the grips of a drought. Even so, we called in at all the hides on our routes only to find a dry mud cracked hollow in front of the hide. But even a situation like this can bring an unexpected delight! We have on some visits taken our breakfast or lunch into the hide. On this particular day we gazed out at the beige pond in front of us while we munched our sandwiches. We heard noises below and leaning out over the edge noticed some Natal Francolins scratching around in the dirt. We dropped some bread crumbs down over the side. Without warning one of the birds flew up and came to perch on my husbands arm! It even allowed him to gently stroke its feathers. We were absolutely amazed!
I am sure there will be plenty of water around in January.

I found this:

"Shapandani Hide – has beds for 6 people and overlooks a river full of hippos. Our night in this hide was one of the most memorable I have ever had in Africa. Watching a pod of hippos playing and fighting with an occasional croc swimming by was quite a way to enjoy the evening. After the sun was down the noise of hyenas and hippos throughout the night will be burned as one of my most amazing African experiences.

Sable Hide – The Sable Hide has beds for 9 people and has a larger boma and two outhouse style bathrooms with sinks but no running water. It overlooks a watering hole just down from the Sable Dam. "

I think they are identical inside apart from the differences listed here. A lot of people say something is not worth it when they are disappointed at not hearing or seeing any animals. They forget the golden rule of Kruger......"we will let you see us if we feel like wandering your way"

Surprises I have encountered:
Pulling over in the shade of a tree to watch some very common buck, I was a bit irritated with my husband( who was driving) as we had seen this type of buck - namely called "McDonald's" because of the dark brown M on the backsides, a million times a day, every day, as they are the most prolific of all the wild animals.
As I lent on the open car window in a huff my eyes happened you look up at the branches. Staring straight back at me - almost level with my gaze - were the two bright yellow eyes of a magnificent leopard stradling a tree trunk with its legs hanging over each side.
As I saw it I was suddenly dumstruck. Some gurgled sounds came out of my mouth but they weren't words just stutters!
My husband thought I had been stung by an insect but eventually leaned over and followed my pointing fingers while I grunted.
Slowly, very slowly we got the camera in position for a shot.
All this time the buck just kept on munching totally unaware there was a leopard sizing them up for dinner!

plak.co.za/moreinfo.php?id=210

[nycboy]

I really love birds. Not nearly as good a story as yours but on one of our hikes out west we went to a remote canyon to photograph some indian ruins and a hummingbird came buzzing around and he flew right up about 18 inches from my face. He stayed there hovering, eyeing me up, only occasionally turning to look at me from a different angle. I couldn't say how long he was there as time seemed to stand still but it was such a special experience. I am jokingly called the "bird whisperer" by friends and family but I think this little guy liked my cologne more than anything.

What a great story with the Leopard too, they are on top of my list of animals to see.

We've emailed for reservations at Shipandani Hide, fingers are crossed.

[tod2]

That's fantastic nycboy - our hummingbirds stay close to their bush of flowers and are very twitchy.
I wonder if it saw a reflection in your sunglasses- or eyes that could be misconstrued as a flower......nah!they're too smart. Must be the cologne

I hope I haven't influenced you to you detriment with the hide!

[tod2]

Ncygirl/boy - I have been meaning to ask you if you stipulated "Perimeter Fence only" when you booked Lower Sabie Camp? If not please amend you booking otherwise you will get a hut/chalet somewhere at the back.
Looking at my map and layout of the camp the numbers you should be looking at are: 3 to22, then 66 to 96. They best ones are around 85/85/86/87/88 because they have the swimming pool behind them and you can just nip across the road. The river is is front of you with beautiful grass lawn and trees for all these numbers. Number 3 is of course right next to the main viewing deck and restaurant - and visitors coming and going to the supermaket! It is screened off but you should be able to hear noise at times.

[nycboy]

I didn't stipulate as there were only 2 units left, but I'll keep calling to get us moved (if we're not already in a decent spot).

Further news: The Sable Hide is available for the 31st. So we arrive on the 30th and haven't yet buttoned anything down for that, then we have the 31st at Sable Hide, 1st at Letaba, 2nd & 3rd at Satara, and finally Lower Sabie for the 4th and 5th.

I have an email into Shipandani Hide as well to cover our bases, and now that I've read a little bit about it I'm liking that one too.

It'll be interesting ringing in the new year at a hide in Africa!

[tod2]

Two units left still means if the other occupants 'to be' have not stipulated "Perimeter Fence" then if you do, you get it, not them.

Today I phoned Croc Bridge to actually select the number 3 unit as my preference. The lady on the phoned typed it in to my booking immediately and said "Right, you have No.3"!

Use the fact that you have never been to Kruger before, it's a first time and very special as it's your anniversary, whatever....... and that you have planned something special and must be on the lawn facing the river.

[Kimby]

With all this good advice and good research you two should have a fabulous trip.
Of course, one can have a fabulous time in Kruger without all that good advice and research, too. We did.
It's a fantastic place.

[nycboy]

Thanks again for the advice, I'll give a call as soon as I get to work tomo. The time zones have made it difficult to call at a time that's convenient for me.

[Deleted]

Do they have marabout storks at Kruger? They were considered to be a nuisance at Tsavo in Kenya because they are so tame and willing to come up and beg.

[tod2]

Nycboy - In order to secure a specific unit or request a specific area the units are in - like 'perimeter fence'
you have to telephone the camp office direct. NOT the booking offices .
In case you want to call this is the number for Lower Sabie:Tel: [phone]
Fax: [phone]
You quote your booking number and/or other details and speak to the unit reservations person.
If they tell you all the units on the perimeter are already booked, insist they put your request in for the first cancellation.

A lot of tour operators block book units and cancel at the last minute if their clients don't want to go there/or don't have any clients at that time. Even if you get no joy before you leave the USA, when you get to your first camp and are checking in, ask the clerk to please check with the Lower Sabie office and see if a unit has become available. Even go so far as to ask again as you check in at Lower Sabie office when you are actually checking in there - the earlier in the day the better instead of just before 6pm.
I think you should be OK and get a positive reply -fingers crossedXXX If I can help in ANY WAY, just say the word.

[tod2]

Kerouac, Oh yes indeed they do have Marabou storks. They are quite ugly storks with a great big pink/red sac hanging down under their chins!
The most beautiful and rare, are the Saddle-billed storks. They seem to be the largest birds of the stork family - well, from my bird photos in this Kruger book I am sure I have posted photos of both at some time.

[htmb]

Tod and NYC boy and girl, I am so glad you decided to post this exchange rather than conduct it via private message. It has been very informative so far to follow your planning as you work towards getting everything in place for your 2013 trip. I look forward to reading more and to seeing the fabulous photos I am sure you will be posting afterwards. 

Today when I was cleaning in my home office I came across a book mark I had saved from several years ago when my students had pen pals in South Africa. We wrote emails back and forth and later exchanged boxes containing photos, descriptions of local landmarks, small items, and recipes for our favorite foods. When I changed schools this little bookmark was one of the few things I kept.

Happy Planning!

[nycboy]

Jul 10, 2012 8:12:15 GMT tod2 said:

Nycboy - In order to secure a specific unit or request a specific area the units are in - like 'perimeter fence'
you have to telephone the camp office direct. NOT the booking offices .
In case you want to call this is the number for Lower Sabie:Tel: [phone]
Fax: [phone]
You quote your booking number and/or other details and speak to the unit reservations person.
If they tell you all the units on the perimeter are already booked, insist they put your request in for the first cancellation.

A lot of tour operators block book units and cancel at the last minute if their clients don't want to go there/or don't have any clients at that time. Even if you get no joy before you leave the USA, when you get to your first camp and are checking in, ask the clerk to please check with the Lower Sabie office and see if a unit has become available. Even go so far as to ask again as you check in at Lower Sabie office when you are actually checking in there - the earlier in the day the better instead of just before 6pm.
I think you should be OK and get a positive reply -fingers crossedXXX If I can help in ANY WAY, just say the word.

I just realized the sites you are referring to are bungalows, we got the hut since it was the only thing available AND since it was cheaper. Is it worth the extra cost for the bungalow? (we were hoping to save money on accommodation at kruger so we could spend it in CT or Namibia (would've camped at LS but they were booked too.))

It appears I wasn't understanding you

[tod2]

Ok, I've telephoned them 5 min ago and this is the deal:

HUTS are from number 35 to 60 (you may be able to see a plan of the camp) have shared ablutions and cooking fascilities but no utensils - R375 per night for a double.

SAFARI TENTS are fully equiped and range from R625 to R675 depending on the view. That means you get a fridge and stove and equipment but no shower or toilet.

BUNGALOWS that are NOT fully equiped and have no kitchen, but have aircon, shower & toilet, those without a view R790 ( numbers 25 to 30)

BUNGALOWS that are fully equiped, kitchen, aircon , shower, toilet without view R845
" " " " with Perimeter View R870, These are what I was talking about. They have the river in front with lawn.

There is a huge difference in the price but you are only spending two nights so stick to the cheaper ones. My only problem would be the toilet being outside - showering would be no problem as you would take your change of clothes with you.

[nycboy]

I just hope that after seven days no one mistakes me for an animal.

Unfortunate news is that for whatever reason I didn't get the Sable Hide despite completing and returning the form to them after they told me it was available. Guess I'll keep trying.

[nycgirl]

Htmb, glad this stuff isn't boring you. We're big planners.

What a sweet little memento, it's nice you held onto it.

Tod, once again, thank you for all of your excellent advice.

[tod2]

My pleasure - I will send you some little tips about the camps that a first time visitor would not know.

[lugg]

I am completely with Htmb and K2 ,really enjoying this thread, slightly envious but also looking forward to the vicarious pleasures resulting from future postings before and after.