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Post by mich64 on Jun 21, 2012 15:54:32 GMT
More and more wonderful photos Tod! How fun that you found an immersion device for your tea making needs when staying at an IBIS, or the like.
The Canal is not only a beautiful area but also is a learning experience, I enjoyed being around that area last year as well.
The wall art is outstanding. Do you think that would have been commissioned?
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Post by Deleted on Jun 21, 2012 16:38:06 GMT
I don't think do, mich. DaCruz just decorates any wall that he can find in the 19th arrondissement. That is actually exactly where I am going tonight because I am invited to dinner on the corner of rue de l'Ourcq and the canal. I in fact lived on rue de l'Ourcq myself from 1976 to 1991!
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Post by mich64 on Jun 21, 2012 20:02:24 GMT
Well, like the photos Tod has shown, the link showed this person is a talented artist. I think it is beautiful work and a nice way to cover up blah concrete space in the city with unique creativity. Enjoy visiting friends and your old neighborhood Kerouac tonight!
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Post by fumobici on Jun 22, 2012 13:36:12 GMT
Still loving this. Thank you and keep it coming.
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Post by tod2 on Jun 22, 2012 13:57:04 GMT
DAY 8, 9th May As soon as I fell upon the website I knew that it would be something that we could enjoy on a day out from Paris. The medieval town of Provins is a Unesco World Heritage Site and there is much to see. The ancient walled section is but a fraction of the attraction s throughout the year. Coming up right now on the 23 & 24 June is the Medieval Festival of Provins, treating visitors to historical re-enactments, troubadours & acrobats, musicians and dancing brings alive the Fairs of Champagne. This visit for us was to see one of the daily shows. As bird lovers we chose the 'Eagles of The Ramparts', which runs from 31st March to 4th November. To get to Provins one has to take a local train from Gare de l'Est. We have chosen to make the trip on a Wednesday instead of a busy weekend. The train speeds past garden allotments and in 2 hours we arrive at Provins station. In the front of the station are several bus stops and we are told to wait at a certain one. A bus comes along but it is the bus from the tourist office. We give him the print out I copied off the website - he looks puzzled but in the end takes us on board and delivers us to the tourist office - No charge. We are the only two people on the tourist train and it starts the journey by trundling along a road next to the city walls before entering a second arched portal imageshack.us/photo/my-images/18/img1809small.jpg[/img]Now we are inside the medieval walls. A group of young students emerges from their school. The train tour gives us a 30 minute visit of what can be found in the old town before dropping us back at the tourist office. We re-enter the town through the nearest portal for a better look. In the town square are all the restaurants side by side. We decide on Mammy's and enjoy their specialty galettes They are served on a slate roof tile - that's a new one! Finding where the show was to take place we pass this old well. At the entrance gate a few people were waiting. Soon a bus load of school children arrives. imageshack.us/a/img15/7471/img1882small.jpg [/img] Once inside we have time to view the birds in their cages before the show. This bird is a Caracara. This Falcon happens to open it's wings for us. It's nearly showtime! The bird show is called the Eagles of The Ramparts but many birds take part -Kestrels, Owls , Buzzards, Falcons, vultures and Caracaras, not forgetting horses, a donkey, a camel and a wolf. The actors take a final bow. It's been a wonderful day. More on Paris to follow.......
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Post by Deleted on Jun 22, 2012 19:42:25 GMT
Provins is one of the few cities within easy reach of Paris that I have never visited, and I can see that not going there was a big mistake.
The "bird show" looks really excellent for a small town, and I am always impressed at how the human performers give their all to these events, even when the crowd is small as the season begins. Sometimes they do even better shows in such cases, because they are not rushed and feel less pressure.
For a moment, with just the two of you on the little tourist train, I was afraid that you'd be alone at the show -- but you wisely went on a Wednesday when the primary and middle schools have the day off (of course they also had the previous day off since it was a national holiday).
I have not yet ever been served on a slate roofing tile.
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Post by koloagirl on Jun 22, 2012 20:16:22 GMT
Aloha from Kaua'i!
I am really enjoying your photos and reports! I'd never heard of Provins before, but am now seriously thinking about taking a day trip from Paris there in September - what an amazing place! I'll have to do more research on it!
Thank you for your wonderful photos you are sharing!
Malama Pono (take care) Janet
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Post by nycgirl on Jun 23, 2012 5:48:10 GMT
Provins looks absolutely charming. You sure chose a good time to go, it looks like you practically had the place to yourself.
Once again, you captured some beautiful shots of the birds. They seem to be posing just for you! That reminds me, there's a falconry show held in Central Park every fall for free that I have yet to see. I'm going to try hard not to miss it this year. Such magnificent creatures.
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Post by tod2 on Jun 23, 2012 6:10:21 GMT
I have the full schedule of events taking place in 2012 if you can't get it off their website . www.provins.net For instance Kerouac, on 7 July and 4 August: PROVINS BY CANDLELIGHT Two exceptional evenings to discover Provins and it's heritage in a magical way by candlelight guided tour, street animations, music and evening shows. Janet, in September there is lots going on starting on the 9th with the National Medieval Book Prize, but if you get there on 25 & 26 August, it is The Harvest Festival with parades of wheat decorated floats, ancient cars & tractors, world music, folk dancing, old-style threshing. I am in two minds whether it is better to go when the town is crawling with visitors, or on quieter days when the streets look deserted and asleep, as you see in my photos. Kerouac, we also had a slight doubt whether we would actually see the bird show as it runs at the same time as The Legend of The Knights - a jousting tournament with horses to which a few people were headed. If it hadn't been for the group of school children at the Eagle show, their audience would have amounted to about 10 people. The costumes were very good - nothing looked old or tatty. As you can see the birds fly free and are tempted back with titbits. That's if they are feeling hungry I guess, as at least one bird made an escape and after the show ended the handlers were running all over the place with a tracking device to see where it, or they, had flown off to! Pee-es: We never understood one word they said in the show, but enjoyed it all the same!!
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Post by patricklondon on Jun 23, 2012 7:32:24 GMT
Fascinating - I must go again and do some more off-piste exploring.
I wonder if those gardens on the Ile-St-Germain were once a prison (to judge by those barred windows in the wall)?
And a teeny-tiny footnote: that blue-bannered demonstration looks like a local trades union dispute: CFTC is the Christian trades union movement, and the banner says something like "Stop safety on the cheap" and then something about recognising the fire branch - so I'm guessing they want to be recognised to represent the firemen.
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Post by lugg on Jun 23, 2012 9:34:34 GMT
I am really enjoying reading your reports and looking at your fab photos and videos. You must have walked for miles during your explorations. So many highlights but especially enjoyed seeing the photos on Rue Denoyez and learning about your experiences living as a "Parisienne " in your apartment.
Provins looks charming, fantastic photos of the birds and your second video of the extremely well trained horse is great. When I look at the old timber framed houses in France it always strikes me how differently they are maintained in comparison to most of the timber framed houses in my home county.
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Post by tod2 on Jun 23, 2012 14:01:09 GMT
Patrick - You observant man! I never even thought about those iron bars and now am wondering why would anyone put bars like that on a garden pergola wall? The gardens were in a wild and unattended state compared to other gardens in Paris. There was a man on a little tractor mower cutting through very long lawn grass. I quite liked the 'wild' state of the gardens and will definitely go back there next trip and maybe have lunch at the restaurant. I also intend investigating some of the other islands dotted in the Seine. If you want to see a really lovely island you must go onto the Ile de la Jatte, where some of the most famous painters put brush to canvas. Admittedly it has many luxury apartments but the roads are quiet and tree-lined with the tip of the island left as a long park. The hotel there is very nice.
Lugg , NYCgirl & koloagirl- I am so glad you are enjoying the essay!
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Post by Deleted on Jun 23, 2012 16:10:57 GMT
I spent the better part of an early rise this morning savoring this thread. So many gems in here Tod, and, so well presented, both pics and commentary. Thank you so much for taking the time to share with us a fascinating, enthralling and intriguing tour of Paris off the beaten path. Just fabulous.
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Post by mossie on Jun 23, 2012 19:29:30 GMT
Many thanks for a most entertaining and varied thread Tod2. I always stay in hotel Le Laumiere on rue Petit and often wander round to see what new street art I can find, some of it is obviously by extremely talented people, here's another example from rue de l'ourcq
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Post by tod2 on Jun 24, 2012 8:02:25 GMT
Mossie, It's just brilliant isn't it?! Your photo really shows the finer details - thanks so much! DAY 9 - 10th May Our time in Paris is more than halfway through and we still haven't touched our Museum passes. Today the sun is out and I have a desire to visit the new covered market in Rue l'Olive - Kerouac territory. We stayed at the Hotel Torcy on a previous trip -( it's within spitting distance of the market) but on that occasion the market had been moved to a temporary outdoor area. The hotel was covered in scaffolding for at least two years, if not longer, but as we rounded the corner there it stood in it's new coat of paint and not a sign of metal pipes criss-crossing the windows and entrance. The entire market was fabulous - everything looked so fresh and appetizing I was tempted to go mad and buy a whole bunch of stuff! Unfortunately my fridge was already filled to the brim. We took a walk around the block to admire the other stores in the area. A few doors down from Kerouac's apartment is a small shop selling oriental spices and suchlike - I stepped inside and asked if they stocked karcade. Yes! I bought three packets on the spot and knew now that I had the correct item. Also worthy to note is that it is available in stores other than Sabah. Well it's time to put those museum passes to good. We take the metro to Ranelagh and begin with the Musee Marmottan-Claude Monet. Only when we try to use the passes we discover it does not qualify. We pay and go in all the same. I admired the turrets and design of this redbrick house along the way. Glorious pansies in someones garden. The Marmottan Museum - housed in rather a lovely building - No photos allowed! I left feeling a little disappointed in what we saw. I felt there were more paintings by other artists than Monet. More museums later........
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Post by lola on Jun 24, 2012 9:30:41 GMT
Nice, tod!
I don't get to Paris often enough to crave being very far afield. Glad you (and K and fmt) can do it for us so delightfully.
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Post by tod2 on Jun 24, 2012 14:24:15 GMT
Continue with 9th DAY. The next museum choice was Les Invalides and Napoleon's Tomb mainly because my husband would like all the military stuff. I've never seen so many suits of armour in one place. The ancient weapons were absolute works of art whether it was a rifle, flintlock pistol, bow and arrow, sword or a great big thundering cannon. The workmanship was incredible. We spent so much time in the museum that there was no time to attempt another one and in any case I think we were all museum-ed out quite frankly! We headed back to Bastille, then a bus down Rue de Lyon. I was looking forward to a nice tagine for dinner and had chosen Chez Leon . As you can see it is a nice looking venue. We got there at 6.30 and were told to come back at 7.30pm when they opened. No problem - we walked further on and I ventured into a Cyber Cafe` to send a message and pick up my email. We then sat having a drink at a cafe` further down the street. At the appropriate hour we appeared and were the first people to be seated at a very nice table near the open doors. After making our selection the waiter brought one tagine dish and a huge plate of couscous. I inquired as to why we were not getting one each - he simply replied brusquely "You can share". Oh well, that's our fault for choosing the same dish of lamb with prunes I guess.,but the amount in the dish was nowhere near the quantity we had at L'Atlas ( there we both got individual tagine dishes even though we both ordered the same thing). The meat was chunky and the sauce too thick and stodgy. Not a great flavour either. We did our best but the waitering staff and the manager stood in a line directly across from our table the entire time we were eating! At first we thought it very strange as eight pairs of eyes stared at you - but eventually we found it very disconcerting and rude. When we paid the bill & left we got hardly a nod of 'thanks for coming' or even Bon Journey! Not recommended to AnyPorters. Two more museums tomorrow...and a really enjoyable dinner.
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Post by htmb on Jun 24, 2012 15:47:23 GMT
Tod, I am enjoying reading your report. Thanks for all the fantastic photos. I avoided going the military museum on several trips to Paris, as I just didn't think it would interest me. However, I spent half a day last summer in mostly the WWII section, where I was moved to tears many times my the news clips and film.
I will make sure to stay away from Chez Leon!
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Post by tod2 on Jun 24, 2012 16:13:42 GMT
htmb, This museum is a definite more than once place. The beauty of the tomb surroundings with the echoes going around the room and way up into that fantastic dome, then the overwhelming displays of military equipment..... I absolutely loved the film on Gen.Charles De Gaulle. He was a man among men - I don't think they breed them like that anymore. Pity.
Glad you are enjoying our trip.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 25, 2012 5:01:05 GMT
My brother is the person enthralled with the military museum. It's about the first place he wanted to rush to when he returned to France for the first time after a hiatus of about 20 years. I don't think I have been there since 1971, but I do intend to return one of these days, since I know it has been renovated at least twice since my last visit. Nevertheless, the hall of armour appears exactly as I remember it.
I remember Napoleon's Tomb as being 'impressive' but your photos make it look much more impressive than my memory of it, especially looking up into the dome. Wow. Napoleon is sort of ignored by modern day French. Things like the law code, the roads he built and some of the fortresses are held in much higher esteem than the fact that he had conquered most of Europe and took control of large areas of the rest of the planet. That is looked upon more as an embarassment than anything else. It's hard to find a European in any other country who does not enjoy chortling the name 'Waterloo.'
As for the photos of my neighbourhood, they are lovely, tod. It is interesting to note that the little pedestrian street recently changed name. It was called rue l'Olive, being named after Charles Liénard de l'Olive, who colonised Guadeloupe. However, most people called it rue de l'Olive out of pure ignorance, aided by the fact that the local merchants placed potted olive trees along the street. As the municipality has been trying to get rid of names linked to colonialism and slave trading, last year it officially changed name and is now named after olives and not Mr. L'Olive. In another 20 years or so, this is sure to be a mystery to most people who will wonder why a local street was named after olives when the other streets around the covered market are called rue de la Martinique, rue de la Guadeloupe, rue de la Louisiane and rue du Canada.
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Post by tod2 on Jun 25, 2012 7:07:28 GMT
Kerouac, I love the fact you can add little snippets of information that we, mere tourists, could never ever find out. I am sometimes more interested in the history than the place, building or street. I can see the tubs of little olive trees near the entrance to the market. So it is now well and truly 'the street of olives'!
Many years ago on a previous trip I left my husband and son asleep at the hotel in Blvd De La Tour Maubourg and went on a walk around the block. Needless to say I saw throngs of people entering Les Invalides, so merrily joined the crowd and managed to gain entrance without a ticket as they surged forward through the doorway. Today that is not possible, but I only went as far as the dome and the tomb. At that time I did not know about the other section of the museum and all the military stuff. It must be 10-15years since last inside and I was so glad my husband was in awe of the entire place.
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Post by tod2 on Jun 25, 2012 14:59:32 GMT
DAY 10, May 11th. The morning begins with Museum weather - rain, which suits our movements today. At least we can use up the second half of our museum passes. Yesterday was sunny and we were forced to use them as our time in Paris is nearly at an end. I thought the Musee des Arts et Metiers - which translates as a museum of arts and crafts, but we found it more scientific and dedicated to invention and technology. This is the building, partly in an old church, the chapel of St-Martin-des-Champs. Starting with the most ancient of instruments, it slowly progresses to the present day. Being in the fabric business, this old-time fabric knitting machine was of great interest. (Modern fabric is either knitted or woven). I have only ever seen the very large computerized versions of this machine, so this was indeed interesting. If anyone is old enough ( like me!) to have had your grandmother knock four nails into an old wooden cotton reel and give you some leftover wool, you would have been introduced to French Knitting. A long tail of wool appears from the core of the reel and gets longer the more you pass the wool over the nails . Well this machine does the exact same thing but in a more complicated way. To eventually see the fabric in a flat piece, a deliberate fault is knitted in one of the stitches, and when taken off the machine is cut open down the fault. A lot of processes happen after that but lets stick to the tubular product clinging to the machine in the photo I will tell you that if you are wearing a fleece sweat shirt ( also called Polar Fleece) then it has been knitted on a machine like this! The museum had a never ending stream of students and school children following a teacher from one instrument or invention to another. We watched as each teacher arrived to demonstrate The Foucault pendulum, or Foucault's pendulum, named after the French physicist Léon Foucault, is a simple device conceived as an experiment to demonstrate the rotation of the Earth. Leaving the museum after about two hours we decided to go straight to the next. I've long been wanting to see what was inside. I did not expect anything as lovely as this! Of course the main attraction is Marie Antoinette's cell - alas it doesn't exist. The room that is portrayed as the last place she inhabited before being guillotined is only a replica of the original. Well my curiosity satisfied we went on to Rue St Anne and in search of a noodle lunch. This place looked good so in we went. Must be a good place to eat - look who's here! Everything was delicious and this place is a definite for next visit. More to come...meanwhile enjoy some really hearty singing!
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Post by Deleted on Jun 25, 2012 16:56:17 GMT
I hear those same Russians at the Concorde metro station often as well. One of the best things about the collapse of the Soviet empire is that it put lots of great musicians on the streets of Western Europe. But of course, that is a selfish Western view because they almost certainly were not street musicians before 1989-1990 and probably performed in very elegant places. Then again, they are probably earning more now. Here a little snippet about rue Sainte Anne -- before being the main Japanese street of Paris (along with avenue de l'Opéra for Japanese shopping needs), it was the principal street for gay clubs in Paris, the principal ones being the Sept, the Colony and the Bronx, and I was actually taken to two of those places by a gay colleague back in the 1970's. He was an American of Jamaican origin and later became a press attaché for the Cannes film festival. Anyway, I never saw the interior of the Bronx: rough trade apparently!), but the other two places were quite nice, full of movie stars and other famous people. A lot of the other little Japanese places on the street were just gay bars. I confess that I was not at all paying attention to that scene in later years and have no idea when the Japanese took over the area and all of the gay places went to the Marais. You will of course be happy to know that I made friends with other gay people in later years, so I have quite a bit of knowledge about some of the places in the Marais, too! I should probably do a report about all of that stuff some day because it has not been covered at Anyport yet.
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Post by tod2 on Jun 26, 2012 12:47:34 GMT
Day 10 Continued.... I can see why Parisian lunches can take up to 3 hours easily. It's such a relaxing occupation in the middle of the day. The Japanese lunch of pot-stickers, fried rice or something similar, and the noodle vegetable bowls were excellent. It's time to attempt another museum and seeing we were in the area, walked down Rue DE Rivoli to the Orangerie and Monet's Water lillies. Even though this is my 13th trip to Paris I have never been to see the enormous paintings that are glued to the walls of this long building. To appreciate the artists strokes of paint they must be viewed from a distance. Close up and they become a splodge of different colour paints brushed hither and thither. The seating provided is an excellent distance away from the canvas and leaves you sitting immersed in your own interpretation and thoughts. On the whole people spoke in soft tones but every now and then voices would rise and the guard on duty would walk into the room with a "SHhhhhhhhh! Quiet PLEASE!" When we had our fill of water and lillies we ventured under the trees facing Place De La Concorde and the fountains. Finding a shady bench we made some videos on the iPhone for our grandchildren before setting off from Concorde Metro to Hotel DE Ville, and the department store of BHV. I did not come away empty handed after finding 4 crystal/type lamps for a dining table. Now I had to fit two cardboard boxes into my already small suitcase and lug them all over the UK for the next three weeks! What was I thinking.......! Kerouac, I am almost sure the Russian singers must have been in the Concorde metro station - but you will be able to tell by the surroundings. At home I regularly go the the Web cam in the courtyard of Cafe DE La Gare. This theater, dance studio and cafe are through a very simple entrance at 41 Rue Du Temple which runs next to the BHV store. Taking a seat at a table where the camera can see us clearly, we phone my son and ask him to go to his computer and see if he can see us. He can!! We wave madly and blow kisses whilst listening to the stomping feet of the group of Spanish Dancers in the studio next to us. After a having beer and meeting the two pooches, the chilly courtyard is not comfortable so we move inside the restaurant for dinner. I find out that the restaurant is actually called The Studio and has a Mexican theme inside. I order a calamari starter and husband has a sort of potato pancake slice We share some ribs. If you ever go onto the web cam you might see two Labrador-type dogs being petted by children and passersby. We also had a turn at giving them a pat on the head and were told their names but I forget them now. It's been another wonderful day in Paris ! Tomorrow we go exploring little alleys, visit Montmartre and lots more.
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Post by bjd on Jun 26, 2012 13:53:41 GMT
I am sure the Japanese man with the long gray hair is the guy who teaches tango on the banks of the Seine in summertime. Or at least, he did so in 2009.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 26, 2012 14:31:43 GMT
The Studio used to be about the only Mexican restaurant in Paris until suddenly another 300 Mexican and Tex-Mex restaurants opened.
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Post by tod2 on Jun 26, 2012 16:49:33 GMT
bjd - We are slaves to the Quai St Bernard and the amphitheatre where the dancing takes place! This trip we were disappointed as no dancing took place even though we checked on the venue three times! Suppose May is still too chilly. I will be showing our picnic supper there shortly... I will keep my eyes peeled in coming trips for that slim tall grey-haired Japanese man.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 26, 2012 17:11:51 GMT
I'm pretty sure that you filmed the Russians at Châtelet. It looks like the stairs going up to the Place St. Opportune exit.
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Post by tod2 on Jun 27, 2012 15:24:14 GMT
Absolutely right Kerouac- Thanks! - I see we took this photo immediately before going to Rue St Anne. DAY 11 - Saturday 12th May Going through my notes I select a few places of interest for today's activity. This will probably seem totally unexciting to the majority of Paris visitors but I was drawn to something Thirza Vallois said about the 12th Arr. Quote; "Next to the hospital St-Antoine, stands a watchmakers's shop, which has been carrying on the same trade on the same premises since the 18th century. The three bells of the original clock outside the shop still punctuate the rhythm of the neighborhood every quarter of an hour, better still at midday, when they chime the hour and echo the past of Faubourg Saint-Antoine. If you decide to wait for this to happen, you can meanwhile walk into no.27 across the street - a brief excursion into the 11th Arrondissement - and into a lovely courtyard with an unusual Louis XVI building at the back. Another charming courtyard is situated at no.173, together with an interesting Louis XIV staircase" : unquote. Anyway, en route I noticed this blackboard outside Au Baroudeur with the daily selections and noted they served Bavette a l'echalotte, which I have yet to try in Paris. Here is the venue where the bells are: Bijoux Jaclys, 186 Fbg St Antoine, 75012. We arrived and sat and waited...and waited....until the noonday gun would have long gone off on Cape Town's Signal Hill! Undeterred I waltzed into the jewelers shop and found the owner. He then delivered the bad news. He bought the business 2 years ago and because of some reason I didn't fully understand about electricity and wiring, they have been silent ever since. Oh well, can't win 'em all! PS. The clock with the bells showed a different time to the otherside ...and then they were both wrong! Is that good advertising or what... We continued down Fbg Saint Antoine and quite by accident came across the little linen shop that we had bought some excellent dish clothes at, last trip in 2010. Needless to say I bought 10 without hesitation. I tend to make photographic notes about places and things I think may came in handy in the future. I take a shot of this shop so that I can refer them to the dance studio in my building. I think this door is really beautiful. We turn down rue Citeaux and make our way to lunch at Gare de Lyon. Some years ago I came to Le Train Bleu and had dinner with some girl friends. Today I have especially chosen a lunchtime so that the interior can be photographed more easily. The lunch arrives...Veal chop for me and roast lamb for Mr. And of course, the good stuff. The plan is to spend part of the afternoon at the Saint-Vincent Nature Garden. It is only open from April-October on a Monday for 2 hrs (4-6pm) and a Saturday 2-6pm. We take the metro to Blanche and hop the little tourist train up to Place du Tetre. I haven't been here for two years so a little mad tourist environment is OK. I noticed the sketch artists are few and far between. We watch and enjoy the antics of this lady and her old organ. She must be, or have been, an artist with some standing as she was flogging her CD's as well. Next came the turn of this lady. Making our way down the other side of the hill we look down on a group of people playing petanque. This is it - but rats! It's closed for some or another reason. This garden is all that remains of the forest of Montmartre. This little enclosure was laid out in 1985 by the City of Paris Parks and Gardens Dept. The interesting thing is that not one tree or bush has been planted by a gardener. The vegetation runs wild and is untouched by human hands. A large number of insects, small animals and birds find shelter in this miniature forest. I have an idea the garden is by appointment only and on a conducted tour. The phone No. is 01-43-28-47-63 Paris Nature Dept. We walk on...past the famous little vineyard of Montmartre. Down past Lapin Agile. Time to sit and put our feet up and sink a cold one! Back to the apartment for dinner and a well earned rest. Tomorrow we look down some little side roads....and have a picnic dinner.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 27, 2012 16:44:45 GMT
While we are waiting for your videos, I think you should know what really goes on at the Train Bleu.
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