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Post by tod2 on Nov 4, 2012 18:28:50 GMT
Thank you so much Mich. I have much better photos of hippos. When I'm done with this report I will find some really great ones among our stash and put them here for you!
Organizing: If you want certain camps and are not prepared to take pot luck, then booking anything from 6 months ahead , sometimes even more, is essential. We have taken supplies in many different versions. Some raw meat, some pre-cooked frozen dinners, and a bit of canned stuff. I am fussy about veg so bring salad stuff and potatoes. I even bring some of my own cutlery like sharp knives etc.
We barbecued most nights and this trip brought way too many steaks - I ended up stewing some and making a sort of casserole! Actually Mark might recognize the dish 'scouse' - it was something like that and I renamed it "Scouse a la Kruger" ;D
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Post by tod2 on Nov 4, 2012 18:35:15 GMT
Nycboy - I brought that lamb from Woolworths Food Store here in our city. They are always juicy and tender and that rack cost us about R75-00 and lasted for two meals. Dinner that night and some for lunch the next day. We may have had some Boerewors on the side as well. Usually do. If you try it please ask for some with lots of coriander. Tastes way better. Just done a quick conversion of your price - R250-00 ! Holy shit!
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Post by nycboy on Nov 4, 2012 19:16:55 GMT
Great, thank you, I'm excited to have some for relatively cheap. Thinking about how to do it on the braai without it getting too tough. Did you just grill it or sear it than move it off the direct heat to cook through?
So much thought to go into preparing our own food on this trip, I feel like we should either go all-in or not bother at all.
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Post by htmb on Nov 4, 2012 19:47:26 GMT
Tod, I'm curious to know the size of the vehicle you were driving. Also, were you able to make pit stops along the way from camp to camp? I remember you saying something about not being able to get out of your car for safety reasons. How many hours per day do you estimate your were confined (for lack of a better word) to your vehicle?
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Post by tod2 on Nov 5, 2012 4:55:34 GMT
Nycboy - I'm not sure how many days you are in the park but if I was in your shoes I would definitely not bother to bring groceries for the reason one needs a 'cooler' box continually topped up with ice to keep perishables fresh. Next, another container with condiments like olive oil, seasonings etc. Way too much bother unless you are in accommodation that provides your own fridge etc., but even then you are not in once place long enough to make it worthwhile, am I right? I recall you wanted an overnight Hide, then were in tents, then a hut with the bare minimum.
I have done a rack starting off searing it then putting it in foil then back on the fire - this one was just done over the coals. (You saw I wrapped the bones to stop them burning). What I have seen a lot for "one nighter's" that have come to neighboring chalets, is they visit the camp store, buy want they want for dinner that night, barbecue it and leave early the next morning with no packing up of foodstuffs. We on the other hand were in each camp for a minimum of 4-5 nights. We saw different folks next to us everyday! Big camps like Letaba, Skukuza, Satara and Lower Sabie, have large supermarket supplies with a more varied selection but you definitely won't find a rack of lamb!!
Htmb - to answer your question: We take our 4X4 BMW X5. True, one cannot exit your vehicle while in the park outside the camp gates. The distances between toilet stops is very long in TIME. You can be 10km from the nearest picnic stop or campsite but can only drive there at 40 (dirt rd) or 50km an hour(tar rd). I look at the map and select a little loop which is a small rd off a bigger one, and switch off the engine,( to hear if another vehicle is coming) look around carefully and make a hasty exit within the confines of my open vehicle door and pee as quick as I can. Funny you have asked this question because I posed the same one to a tour guide taking people on a game drive. He laughed and said "Every tree is a lavatory"! I have never ever seen a tourist exit one of these high vehicles to take a pee - well we wouldn't would we if he was doing his job properly! He did say he once had a group of Japanese tourists and during the trip a man shouted "I want... I want....!, then quickly pulled off his trousers and stuck his butt over the side. Poor thing had Gippo Guts. That's because of the water - it seems to have a high chalk build up and upsets one's stomach. Stick to the bottled stuff. The time we are confined is anything from 2-4 hrs at a time. I try very hard to stretch legs at every opportunity like picnic spots and other camps along the way.
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Post by tod2 on Nov 5, 2012 9:18:08 GMT
We make and early start and are on the road to our next camp for the next three nights , Bateleur, (named after the acrobat of the skies, the mighty Bateleur Eagle). There is lots to see during our time there. Photos are in no particular order on any particular day. Those gorgeous Nyalas locking horns in a playful tangle. Early morning shower time at the friendly neighborhood waterhole. And a bit further down the road, another opportunity to catch an early morning cool down. Clearing alien vegetation in the park. Off the main H1-6 is a short dirt road to Olifantsbadpan. There was nothing there, not even water, only this old elephant skull. It is on this main tarred road H1-6 that you will go across the Tropic of Capricorn. An artificial rock marks the spot but according to Tracks4Africa, the actual Tropic line is 3km further south! On the main H1-6 we pass this enormous baobab just coming into leaf but through binoculars I can't make out any flowers. The tree is a landmark on the side of a small hill called "Bowker's Kop". Miles Robert Bowker often hunted in the Lowveld. One of his favourite campsites was near two large baobab trees at the foot of the hill that now bears his name. During the 1980's elephants destroyed one of the trees. The Bowker family erected a marble plaque here in the 1950's but one cannot see it, unfortunately. It reads:"Near this baobab tree a party of hunters from the Rand had their camp in 1888. Their names were Robert Bowker, who's name is carved into this tree. Alec Bowker and Charlie White his cousins. The others were Fred and Harry Barber, the founders of Barberton, and Miller with his ox wagon who provided the transport." We manage to get a photo of this dear little "bambi" called a Steenbok. They don't stay around for long. A fascinating fact is that the Common Duiker and Steenbok are the only two antelope that are not strict vegetarians. Obiviously they are not hunters but will scavenge meat if they can. More later......
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Post by tod2 on Nov 5, 2012 12:51:23 GMT
Another dry river bed showing the animals tracks criss-crossing it. Mopani camp proved to be a good toilet stop as we neared the Shipandani Overnight Hide on the Tsendze River and the Pioneer Dam Hide. This is Shipandani. the view The R52 dirt road to Bateleur skirts both sides of the Mashokwe River and one can take the route via Red Rocks. Here you are permitted to exit your vehicle but not to wander further than the cleared view point. Here we are! Home sweet home for the next three nights. Cost: R3,744-00 This is the reservation office - looks like their game drive vehicle is already to head off into the bush. The units are not on top of each other and pathways make strolling around more pleasurable. Here we are in the late afternoon sun. There's going to be a wonderful sunset this evening. The process begins....... The open veld is set on fire by the dying rays of the sun. Tomorrow hopefully some animals!
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Post by nycgirl on Nov 6, 2012 3:41:04 GMT
Terrific photos and videos! It's amazing that you've been so many times and still have brand new experiences, like seeing elephants dust bathing, or hearing a lion roar. I can see why safariing in Kruger can be habit-forming.
Those Nyala are so beautiful. That steenbok is adorable. In the second photo, he looks like he's smiling.
Stunning sunsets! I can't believe I get to see those same sunsets in 7 more weeks. I can't wait!
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Post by Deleted on Nov 6, 2012 6:52:04 GMT
The steenbok looks like it was so pleased to pose for a photo. I imagine that horn locking animals must get their horns (temporarily) stuck from time to time, and I would assume that this must put them into a frenzy until they get loose, no?
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Post by tod2 on Nov 6, 2012 8:18:31 GMT
Grateful thanks for the comments! Nycgirl I will keep my fingers crossed that you are able to get some good sunsets. There's one little problem with time though. The sun sets so late - well after you have to be back in camp, so the solution is to find a vantage point within the camp itself. As was done in this last sunset.
Kerouac, I am going to put up a photo that initially I wouldn't be bothered with, just to show you what can happen in a deadly rutting.
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Post by tod2 on Nov 6, 2012 14:41:02 GMT
The unit we occupy is really for 4 people and whether or not you bring two others is up to you but the cost is the same. The double bed is not all that comfortable compared to sleeping on a king size, but we have the option of the other room with two singles but no air con or TV. The TV is something we have never had in any previous camp and is very limited to South African channels mostly. We never buy a newspaper, listen to the radio or watch TV when in Kruger. It's like going to re-hab I guess ;D At around 6am I am greeted by dozens of birds hopping on and off the branches of the nearby shrubs. They didn't put the birdbath there for nothing, as birds dip their beaks for a morning drink. Very excited at the various species I dash back inside to grab a camera. Here are a few shots: A Bennett's Woodpecker, which is distinguishable from the other three similar woodpeckers by his white face a red hat and only a red flash on the cheek. A Crested Barbet sits on the birdbath. The Go- Away Bird or named the Grey Lourie - Not a pretty colour but has the strangest call. It goes like this "kweh-h-h'or-go-way-y-y-y" They are fruit eating birds. The exact opposite in colouring is the very bright and shiny Burchell's Starling - recognizable by the black eye-patch. Very common throughout Kruger The Red-billed Hornbill. Not to be outdone a Yellow-billed Hornbill joins the party. With the second camera my OH captures this stunning little bird - The African Paradise Fly-Catcher. Some camps warn you about pesky monkeys, others a sly old badger, and at Bateleur the pests are little Tree Squirrels. They were wonderful to observe running from one tree to another. This morning they joined the birds in a breakfast feast of breadcrumbs and nuts. Yeh, I know - don't feed the animals - In the camp itself I totally ignore this request (except for monkeys) and get some camera time as the birds land for tit bits. We are still out the gate quite early - here one of the staff does the honors. Bateleur has two dams, Rooibosrand Dam and Silvervis Dam. Another road, also open to the general visitors to the park, takes one up to the Tshanga Lookout. Here you may alight from your vehicle and have breakfast or lunch on these natural furnishings! Another troop of baboons is foraging near the road luckily for us. We think this little fellow was newly born and very unsteady still. More stuff to come....
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Post by htmb on Nov 6, 2012 14:50:28 GMT
Tod, your photos of the fabulous birds are wonderful, and the video of the baby baboon is priceless!
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Post by nycboy on Nov 7, 2012 1:03:10 GMT
I've only had a brief glance at the pictures thus far today but they are beautiful, love the birds.
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Post by nycboy on Nov 7, 2012 1:38:55 GMT
The view from Shipandani is much better than the impression I had from perusing the net.
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Post by nycgirl on Nov 7, 2012 5:09:23 GMT
Aww, the baby baboon is so cute! He looks like he's only days old. In the video he seems very eager to be up and at 'em, but his little body doesn't have any strength yet.
Those birds are so incredibly lovely.
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Post by mossie on Nov 7, 2012 8:09:12 GMT
Not only do you give us some wonderful animal shots, there are some magnificent birds. And I'd never heard of most of them. Thanks a million.
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Post by tod2 on Nov 7, 2012 9:21:32 GMT
The weather has cooled considerably in the past three days and evidence of rainfall is reflected by the new leaves on the Mopani bushes. Not far into our morning we spot a Bateleur. This is just what we wanted as our check-in clerk at the camp has no idea what one looks like.......really? When we get back we have great delight in showing him the bird that bears the camps name "Bateleur"! Along a dirt road we get a tip-off from a passing vehicle about an albino monkey. We are lucky and it is still in view and find it's only a baby. The rest of the troop scamper across the road leaving it behind with it's mother. Poor little thing has wet fur from the rain. This elephant intrigues us as we watch how it digs for water in the dry river bed. And evidently found some... One of my favorite birds in Kruger are the Kingfishers. Snapped this one as it waited for a movement in the water. This is the Giant Kingfisher. From the vantage point of a high bridge we zoom up on this hippo and all it's scars. In all our many visits we have yet to see a giraffe lying down..... To get up, which it did, it swings it's head and long neck back and forth finally getting to its feet on a forward movement. An amusing bird is this male Red-crested Korhaan when it calls for a mate.. Doesn't it blend so well into the bush! I took the opportunity of popping into Letaba camp to show Nycgirl and Boy, what the campsite looked like if they are calling there. Tall Lala Palms are everywhere giving the camp a tropical look. Naturally it's virtually empty at this time of the year - no school holidays till Xmas. These tented units are part of the camping area. Notice the pale pinky-mauve carpet caused by the petals falling off the Tree Wistaria. We saw little buck lapping up the petals as the trees were blooming everywhere. Next - I find the illusive Baobab flower!
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Post by bjd on Nov 7, 2012 10:52:32 GMT
It's such a pleasure (filled with envy!) to look at your photographs, Tod. The birds are so colourful and spectacular, compared with the boring city birds we have here in France.
And scrolling down the page, I was going to admire the smile on your little Steenbok, only to discover that it has been mentioned several times.
Despite the fact that I really like giraffes, I must admit that they seem terribly badly designed -- I mean, having to wave its huge neck back and forth to be able to get up. And having to spread its forelegs to be able to drink. It looks like something out of a Gary Larsen cartoon where God screws up when he is designing animals.
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Post by tod2 on Nov 7, 2012 10:59:41 GMT
Mossie & Nycboy - So glad you are enjoying the birds. They were quite hard to find sometimes! My quest today was to motor down to Olifants Camp and beyond until we came to Balule Campsite. This is where I was told the flowering Baobab was. Arriving at the gate we were greeted by a rather suspicious and surley camp security guard. I explained that all I wanted was to photograph the baobab tree. Reluctantly he let us in - whew! Here is the tree standing near the fence. The flowers are descibed as large (12cm diameter) snow-white, waxy, crumpled petals with a central column consisting of fused stamens through which the style protrudes and hang upside down, appearing during October/November. The fallen flowers soon turn brown reminding me of Gardenia petals. Some of the baobab fruit was already developing. These will ripen in April/May. When we leave I hand the guard an ice cold coke and he suddenly becomes extremely friendly and waves us a cheery goodbye! Heading back we cruise past this big tusker enjoying the new leaves. Count yourself extremely lucky if you catch a glimpse of a Blackbacked Jackal, let alone get a shot with a camera. They move swiftly hardly stopping as they sniff out rodents and small game. Our stay at Bateleur has come to an end and we move to Orpen Gate Camp just for one night as we finally move right down to the lower end of Kruger. Cost: R652-00 This camp has the pesky badger which we have only ever managed to photograph once. At the entrance gate I snapped this little pattern of Africa made with stones. Adjacent to Orpen are two other accommodation sites - The Maroela Caravan Camp and the Tamboti Tented Camp. I have never bothered to go and see them until now. This is Tamboti. The permanent tents are far apart and deep into the shrubbery and Timbavati River's edge.. Water is beginning to appear now from the rains - We see this family of elephants heading towards us, so we stop, turn off the engine and film them enjoying a drink and a splash.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 7, 2012 11:24:38 GMT
It can only be your report that set this off, but I dreamed of elephants the other night -- one of them tried to spray me with its trunk. But the dream didn't seem to take place in Africa as the countryside wherever I was seemed totally familiar.
I don't know what I expected baobab flowers to look like, but that isn't it! Are they always the same colour or do different varieties of baobab have variations?
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Post by tod2 on Nov 7, 2012 12:35:01 GMT
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Post by tod2 on Nov 7, 2012 13:42:33 GMT
bjd - I don't go off-line when posting so missed your earlier comment and for which I thank you!
Yes indeed, the birds are rather special and we encountered many groups togged up in their birding outfits. These comprised of special shirts, jackets and pants that had numerous pockets, binoculars of a special kind (some with tripods) , hats, bird guide books with additional note books and so on.
I have more bird photos to come.
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Post by tod2 on Nov 7, 2012 13:55:44 GMT
Kerouac, I am glad you have had an encounter with elephants.......so much better than sheep ;D ;D ;D
The baobab flower is only white. The fruit pulp contains ascorbic acid (hence the Afrikaans name for the tree is "Kremetart" - Creme of Tartar) The fruit is eaten by primates. There is only one variety of baobab . Some trees are hollow and a tree with a circumference of 30metres should be more that 4,000 years old!
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Post by nycboy on Nov 7, 2012 15:20:44 GMT
Love the in-flight shot of the heron
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Post by htmb on Nov 7, 2012 16:36:17 GMT
Love the in-flight shot of the heron I think all your pictures are fabulous, but I especially like the in-flight shot of the heron, too! Wonderful report, tod, and what an experience it must be for you and your husband to explore.
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Post by tod2 on Nov 7, 2012 16:46:25 GMT
nycboy - I would like to know what kind of lens you are bringing. Obviously for us, the big guns are easy for one camera, and a second closer lens for the second camera. Hence the different shades of photos as each camera is set up differently.
When we travel abroad we do not take a big lens as it is far too heavy. Unfortunately if you want the shot in Kruger ( as it has to be from within your vehicle) this is absolutely necessary.
If I can give one word of photographic advice - Make one person the photographer, and one person the driver. The driver has to manouevre the vehicle into the exact requirements of the photographer without being screamed or shouted at! If this happens all "favours" are to be withheld ;D
htmb - Why thank you ma'am- that's great praise indeed!
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Post by Deleted on Nov 7, 2012 18:20:13 GMT
Hmmm, I'll have to wait a while for the last set of photos to show up -- about half of them are just displaying red crosses to me at the moment.
The Goliath heron is fantastic.
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Post by nycgirl on Nov 7, 2012 19:29:12 GMT
So much great stuff to talk about, where to start?! First off, let me say that I'm very surprised the check-in clerk at Bateleur couldn't describe a Bateleur! Maybe he knows it by a different name? Anyway, I'm glad you showed him your gorgeous photos, so he knows now. Lots of cute babies! The scruffy little wet monkey and the little zebra are adorable. It's funny how a giraffe gets up. Imagine if we needed to build up momentum every time we wanted to stand. Glad you got to see your flowering Baobob tree, it is very pretty. Good job talking your way into the camp. Great photos of the lions. They are such magnificent beasts, even if they are lazy bags of bones most of the time. The hyena you photoed has a cute, puppy-like face. Is it a youngster, maybe? Thanks for showing the camps. Unfortunately, we won't be staying at Letaba, although I was interested. We'll be staying at 4 camps over 7 nights, so we didn't have time to add another. It looks very nice. We will stay at Tamboti, though, which I'm very excited about. I read that they have a resident honey badger, so I'm gonna keep my eyes open for him. Thanks for this, these posts will give me a lot to daydream about at work today.
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Post by nycboy on Nov 8, 2012 3:04:55 GMT
nycboy - I would like to know what kind of lens you are bringing. Obviously for us, the big guns are easy for one camera, and a second closer lens for the second camera. Hence the different shades of photos as each camera is set up differently. When we travel abroad we do not take a big lens as it is far too heavy. Unfortunately if you want the shot in Kruger ( as it has to be from within your vehicle) this is absolutely necessary. If I can give one word of photographic advice - Make one person the photographer, and one person the driver. The driver has to manouevre the vehicle into the exact requirements of the photographer without being screamed or shouted at! If this happens all "favours" are to be withheld ;D I picked up a Tamron 70-300mm with vibration control to go on my Canon 550D (think that's what it is abroad, it's a T2i here). It's a crop body so that puts me at 480mm on the long end. For a budget lens I'm impressed with the quality of the images it produces, the reviews have it performing better than the 70-300mm EF Canon which costs twice as much. What are you using? It must be pretty good to get you in so close and clear and if it's heavy like you say. Unfortunately the A-team would have been me shooting and dad driving but now it'll be me shooting AND driving as my wife doesn't have a license and, quite frankly, my mom is scaring the hell out of me behind the wheel in her old age! Alas, I really do like multi-tasking and I'm looking forward to the challenge. Wish I had two SLR setups for this trip but the second camera will have to be a p+s we'll keep handy for the close and impatient things we come upon. As much as I enjoy photography I'm just as inclined to put the camera down and enjoy the moment. I guess what I mean to say is the trip is what I'm there for, I don't like when documenting the trip gets in the way of enjoying it. My wife likes documenting.
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Post by tod2 on Nov 8, 2012 4:56:35 GMT
Well I've always been extremely impressed with the photos you have posted! Thanks for the camera information. This trip we took our Canon 7D with a Canon100-400mm lens /stabilized, and the second was a Canon 5D mark11 with a Canon24-70mm lens- not stabilized. Both are L lenses. We always use something on the window to steady the camera even more. Your mom will do just great in Kruger. Everybody drives like it were "Miss Daisy" ;D With the speed limit at 50km on tar and 40 on dirt, that's a good start but that does not mean you must drive at that speed! You will find a lot of folks driving at 20km an hour especially on dirt. The stressful part is trying to get a photo when there are a lot of vehicles at a "crime scene" This needs a bit of patience, reversing, turning, going forward, facing the wrong way etc etc. Remember, in Kruger you can do just about anything - like parking across the road, face the traffic the wrong way(stationary). I try to park so there's at least a small space for other traffic to pass through but don't be surprised if you are held up for 20min or so because the whole road is blocked with vehicles!
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