Baptism of Christ

[onlymark]

"Then Jesus came from Galilee to John at the Jordan to be baptized by him (Matthew 3:13)".

Amongst religious scholars there seems to be a consensus that during the life of Jesus two events certainly occurred. One was the crucifixion, but previous to that was his baptism.
There was debate over the location of this baptism but in recent years and due to certain discoveries a site on the east bank of the River Jordan, in Jordan, is deemed to be the correct place. This is called "Bethany beyond the Jordan".
Rumours had abounded as to its exact position. Scholars poured over biblical texts and other accounts and sources of information to try and pin it down. The collective memory of local Bedouins pointed out a possible location but there was a snag. It was a military area immediately at the border between Jordan and Israel – the River itself is the border so this was in reality to be expected.

What has come to be known as The Baptism Site was a militarized zone, full of mines. Jordan and Israel signed a peace treaty in 1994 and this allowed for a de-mining of the area.
While on a personal trip to Mount Nebo, HRH Prince Ghazi bin Muhammad met the archaeologist and monk Father Piccirillo, Father Piccirillo explained to Prince Ghazi about the significance of the Baptism Site, and the possibility of looking for it now that the peace treaty had been signed. Prince Ghazi arranged with the military for them to visit the site. On their visit, they found mosaic patterns and ruins of a church. It was enough for Prince Ghazi to order further investigation.

On one site near the river Jordan, mosaic remains were found; then marble remains; then more remains. In total, the remains of five different churches, built at separate times, were found.
Old pilgrims' accounts show how closely their descriptions matched with what was discovered –
Antoninus of Piacenze (A.D 570) said: "By the side of the Jordan, where the Lord was baptized, at the place where the water returned to its bed, marble steps descend into the water."
Remains of the marble steps were found during the excavations.
Various other accounts were authenticated with relevant discoveries at the site as to location and composition of the layout.


This is the location. The blue is the top of the Dead Sea, Jericho is to the west and Amman to the east –




Simple enough for me to get to, about 45 minutes away, but I’d not yet been as I had little interest to be honest. However, in recent days we’ve had two friends from Germany staying with us – and both are priests – so guess what the theme has been of where I’ve been taking them?
So we went.

[onlymark]

The system is you pull in at a car park next to which is a ticket booth. Pay 12 JD (approx 12 Euro) each and you have the option of a free audio guide. Then, as the site is still officially in the military zone, you use a shuttle bus for 3 or 4 km to get to near the actual place itself. The group of you on the bus are guided round to various points and about an hour later are herded back on the same bus to return to the car park.
Initially there is a reasonably pleasant walk down some paths –






The first thing you come to is –




This is where the churches were that were mentioned in contemporary writings. This is also allegedly the actual physical location that Jesus was baptised –




In reality –






Obvious to note that as of now there is no water there.
A woman from the group I was with saw this site and asked the guide where the water was. He just shrugged his shoulders –

[onlymark]

We walked around the other side where the wooden roof area is that covers the remains of what was once one of the churches –






After a few minutes here and satiated with photos we moved a hundred metres or so further down the path. We passed by this building which we’ll look inside at shortly. It is a new Greek Orthodox church –










All of a sudden, a little further down the path, the Jordan river appeared. For all its hyped story it is now just not quite so impressive. Blame humans for siphoning off most of it upstream. By the way, apart from some springs, this is the main source of replenishment of the Dead Sea.




I noticed quite a few people on the other side. My friends asked me if the river is still the border between Jordan and Israel. I confirmed it was and pointed to the Israeli flag not more than a few metres away across the other side –

[onlymark]

On our side of the river we were but a poor few compared to the other side –














Numerous people were filling up water bottles from the river to take home and baptise their offspring. At least I presume that was the case as I doubt there is much benefit to be gained from drinking it.
On site is also a font that can be used for your own ceremonies –

[onlymark]

I made my way back to the aforementioned church and had a wander in. Quite colourful and I’m sure someone of knowledge can enlighten us as to the stories behind the murals. For me, I just admired the use of colour and the artistry –




















A return walk back around a slightly different path brought me to a view of the river with the church in the background –




And that was about it. Back to the shuttle bus, back to the car park and on to see the next thing.

[bjd]

Would those people taking a dip on the Israeli side be evangelical Christians?

[bixaorellana]

This is fascinating, Mark. It never occurred to me that there might be an actual spot pinpointed for the baptism of Jesus.

It's hardly surprising to find a church and other things commemorating the event there, but also rather disappointing. I loved that scene in The Last Temptation of Christ that showed the baptism -- wild land with women ululating. It seemed so much more accurate for the time and circumstances than any painting or Hollywood representation.

If one were a believer, or even someone with a respect for history, I'd think it would feel so much more profound to simply gaze on an empty, endlessly flowing stream than upon man-made monuments.

Question: do you have any idea if the river bed was already dry when the ancient churches were built?

Love the picture with the doves and the last one of the river with the church in the background is absolutely wonderful.

[mossie]

Very interesting Mark. I never knew if there was any truth in the Bible story, but there has to be. The church is fascinating, those eastern type Christians certainly go in for vivid decoration and allegory.
I once visited the Monastery of St Catherine on Mount Sinai where they had some magnificent icons, that is a Greek Orthodox type church.
Being disrespectful for a moment, when I was in Habbaniyah in Iraq I visited John the Baptist in his hut/workshop. He sold me a gold chain for my mother.

[onlymark]

bjd, I have absolutely no idea, sorry. I'm not even sure which religions or factions of religions are baptised and who isn't.

bixa, the churches were built on higher ground and the steps of the baptism site and associated pillars below water level would have been built first and then the channel opened up to the river to fill that area. I doubt the river has ever been dry and has always flowed for many millions of years when the tectonic plates that border the Jordan valley began to separate to form the valley itself. The valley is the northern part of the Great Rift Valley that stretches from central/east Africa all the way north.
Not to get too much into this but originally there was no valley cum Great Rift valley. Then the plates began to shift and separate, the right (eastern) side moving not only away from the western side but also upwards (northwards).
This caused what we know now as the Red Sea and at one time there was water stretching from there all the way north through the Dead Sea and to the Sea of Galilee situated near the very north of Jordan. Over time the southern end into the Red Sea was blocked by rising land, the great lake formed in the Jordan valley began to dry out forming separate lakes and eventually leaving just two, the Sea of Galilee and the Dead Sea. The area of the Dead Sea began to sink several hundred metres and with no outflow and little inflow and with the minerals in the area it became as now, up to a third percentage of salt. The Sea of Galilee is fresh water but still about 200m below sea level (Dead Sea over 400m below sea level).
The Jordan River initially feeds the Sea of Galilee, then flows through it to the Dead Sea - but obviously Israel, as they use that lake for a lot of their fresh water needs, would probably like no water to flow out.

You had a short question, I gave you a long answer, and possibly not all of it relevant

[Deleted]

The church is nice but the rest of the things to see are certainly underwhelming, particularly the dry baptismal place. I agree with Bixa that it is probably a moving experience for believers.

It would be interesting to see what sort of infrastructure the Israelis have installed on the other side to attract tourists the faithful. "If you build it, they will come" -- if you've seen the movie.

[onlymark]

mossie, at St Catherine did you see the "original" burning bush as well? It's stuck in a corner somewhere.
('original', yeah, right.)

[onlymark]

I've seen the movie k2. Also a religious experience.

[mossie]

Aha Mark. O ye of little faith. Of course we were shown the original "burning bush", looking just as fresh as the day When it guided Moses to the spot ;D

[bixaorellana]

Nov 14, 2012 19:48:13 GMT onlyMark said:

I gave you a long answer, and possibly not all of it relevant

Yes, relevant! Belated thanks for that answer, too. I came back to look at this thread after reading Mossie's Mount Sinai thread & being surprised at the height of that mountain. Obviously you've been providing that kind of geographical info all along, but I wasn't paying sufficient attention.