Czech Republic
Mar 13, 2013 0:30:55 GMT
Post by waterhazardjack on Mar 13, 2013 0:30:55 GMT
A WALK THROUGH THE HEART OF THE CESKY RAJ
This is a summary of a trip I made in the summer of 2011. Special thanks to Wildroo, Jeroen, Jeremy, Greg28 etc who have posted encouraging Czech material on the once-great ThornTree Forum, in the past...apologies in advance for the length of this post but some of the information might prove useful for other travellers in this region...
Arrived mid-July from Prague at approx 4pm in the afternoon in the pretty town of Jicin and checked out the Tourist Office in the square. Prices were a little more than I expected so I thought before I committed myself to something central I’d trek out to the Ramcajs Campsite with attached motel. Here I was offered a room at 190Kc which I decided to take due to proximity to trails to the Prachov Rocks. The motel is as ramshackle as you’ll get and new Czech-Australian owner Sheree has a job on her hands to get the place into shape. But they’re a friendly bunch and the food and drink are fine.
Struck out for the Rocks at 6pm or so that first evening along the yellow trail from the motel which should have had me there in an hour or so but it’s a confusing trail and not well defined in quite a few places so I decided to abandon after a very frustrating hour in case of insufficient time and light and also with the intention of completing a comprehensive hike through the park the following day.
The next morning the weather was dull and wet and overall forecast not good either. I lingered for an hour or so to see if it would clear up before deciding to give it a go. To further complicate matters, I got the bus and train times from Jicin to Turnov mixed up with those to Trutnov when reconnoitring for information the previous evening (not like me!) and ended up not leaving Jicin til 1.30 in the afternoon which was very late to be embarking on a hike of this length.
There’s no need to go all the way into Turnov as Turnov Mesto outside the town makes a better starting point to access the park’s red trail and save time. First landmark after only a kilometre or two is the viewing point at Hlavatice which gives a fine panorama over the rest of northern Bohemia. From here it’s not far to the ancient fortification of Valdstejn Castle. I hadn’t intended to make a stop and lose what I thought would be valuable time so early in the hike but I was glad afterwards I had as it’s an atmospheric old place in a very unlikely setting and you can see a lot in 30 minutes or so.
After this it was on to the first Rock City formation, the magnificent Hrubaskalske Skalni which are to your left and easily accessible from the trail at various intervals. It’s worth checking out the various viewing points as they all have something a little different to offer. After this spirit boosting elixir it was on to Hruba Skala itself and a brief refreshment stop at the hotel and its fine panoramic terrace.
I was just getting comfortable over a drink when the rain started coming down again at 4.40pm so it was decision time as to whether to take a train back from HS station or head on down the trail. As usual, foolishness won out and I was up and away again in 5 minutes, heading into the wooded valley that leads to Troitsky Most which was signposted for 8 kms. The rain really started belting down and made it tough going but I slogged it out and got there at 6pm exactly.
Disappointingly they were just locking up as I arrived but it was worth it to get the views across the Park and enjoy the various vistas over these magnificent and gloomy towers. Purchased some ice-cream in the inn at the bottom of the Castle and gulped when I saw the next leg to the Prachov Rocks was going to be another 13kms at 6pm in the evening.
However, the rain eased off and most of the hike from here on is through pretty villages and open countryside so a good contrast to what went before and not arduous at all. To keep morale intact I’d promised myself a beer at the Turisticka Chata in the Rock City and when I arrived there at 7.50pm and saw some other patrons sipping on theirs outside on the verandah, I felt quite elated but that was til I found out they had closed at 7pm and these were the last remaining customers.
So, after a swig of water it was on to the second rock formation of the trip and this one is quite a contrast to the first one at Hruba Skala. Effectively, arriving on the red trail from Troitsky Most deposits you on the floor of the city where the various chati and food stalls are and then you have to climb your way out of it via several hundred steps and viewing points.
Having accomplished this I made it to the village of Prachov at 9pm or so and then the remaining 7/8kms downhill back to Jicin had me back in the door of the motel at 9.50pm.
TO SUMMARISE: When I visited the Tourist Office the following day they guessed I had covered 50kms which came as a shock to me but they studied it while I was walking around town and informed me when I came back it couldn’t be less than 45kms in their estimation.
The red trail takes you through all the main highlights mentioned above and is very well marked over the entire 45-50kms. At some points in open countryside you’ll have to take an educated guess but common sense will keep you right. The entire hike took me 7 and a half hours with no real food or drink stops as time was of the essence for me due to late start so all grub was consumed on the hoof.
There are food and drink outlets at Valdstejn, Hruba Skala, Troitsky Most and Prachovskie Skalni plus other villages south of TM.
I went to Turnov from Jicin on the train and I’d say this route is the most picturesque on your way up there. Bear in mind that the train station is a little hard to find in Jicin due to new development so leave yourself some emergency time to find it.
Jicin is a very quiet town at night but there is a new Turko-German eaterie on the western side of the main square where you can get food and a beer til 1am or so.
This is a summary of a trip I made in the summer of 2011. Special thanks to Wildroo, Jeroen, Jeremy, Greg28 etc who have posted encouraging Czech material on the once-great ThornTree Forum, in the past...apologies in advance for the length of this post but some of the information might prove useful for other travellers in this region...
Arrived mid-July from Prague at approx 4pm in the afternoon in the pretty town of Jicin and checked out the Tourist Office in the square. Prices were a little more than I expected so I thought before I committed myself to something central I’d trek out to the Ramcajs Campsite with attached motel. Here I was offered a room at 190Kc which I decided to take due to proximity to trails to the Prachov Rocks. The motel is as ramshackle as you’ll get and new Czech-Australian owner Sheree has a job on her hands to get the place into shape. But they’re a friendly bunch and the food and drink are fine.
Struck out for the Rocks at 6pm or so that first evening along the yellow trail from the motel which should have had me there in an hour or so but it’s a confusing trail and not well defined in quite a few places so I decided to abandon after a very frustrating hour in case of insufficient time and light and also with the intention of completing a comprehensive hike through the park the following day.
The next morning the weather was dull and wet and overall forecast not good either. I lingered for an hour or so to see if it would clear up before deciding to give it a go. To further complicate matters, I got the bus and train times from Jicin to Turnov mixed up with those to Trutnov when reconnoitring for information the previous evening (not like me!) and ended up not leaving Jicin til 1.30 in the afternoon which was very late to be embarking on a hike of this length.
There’s no need to go all the way into Turnov as Turnov Mesto outside the town makes a better starting point to access the park’s red trail and save time. First landmark after only a kilometre or two is the viewing point at Hlavatice which gives a fine panorama over the rest of northern Bohemia. From here it’s not far to the ancient fortification of Valdstejn Castle. I hadn’t intended to make a stop and lose what I thought would be valuable time so early in the hike but I was glad afterwards I had as it’s an atmospheric old place in a very unlikely setting and you can see a lot in 30 minutes or so.
After this it was on to the first Rock City formation, the magnificent Hrubaskalske Skalni which are to your left and easily accessible from the trail at various intervals. It’s worth checking out the various viewing points as they all have something a little different to offer. After this spirit boosting elixir it was on to Hruba Skala itself and a brief refreshment stop at the hotel and its fine panoramic terrace.
I was just getting comfortable over a drink when the rain started coming down again at 4.40pm so it was decision time as to whether to take a train back from HS station or head on down the trail. As usual, foolishness won out and I was up and away again in 5 minutes, heading into the wooded valley that leads to Troitsky Most which was signposted for 8 kms. The rain really started belting down and made it tough going but I slogged it out and got there at 6pm exactly.
Disappointingly they were just locking up as I arrived but it was worth it to get the views across the Park and enjoy the various vistas over these magnificent and gloomy towers. Purchased some ice-cream in the inn at the bottom of the Castle and gulped when I saw the next leg to the Prachov Rocks was going to be another 13kms at 6pm in the evening.
However, the rain eased off and most of the hike from here on is through pretty villages and open countryside so a good contrast to what went before and not arduous at all. To keep morale intact I’d promised myself a beer at the Turisticka Chata in the Rock City and when I arrived there at 7.50pm and saw some other patrons sipping on theirs outside on the verandah, I felt quite elated but that was til I found out they had closed at 7pm and these were the last remaining customers.
So, after a swig of water it was on to the second rock formation of the trip and this one is quite a contrast to the first one at Hruba Skala. Effectively, arriving on the red trail from Troitsky Most deposits you on the floor of the city where the various chati and food stalls are and then you have to climb your way out of it via several hundred steps and viewing points.
Having accomplished this I made it to the village of Prachov at 9pm or so and then the remaining 7/8kms downhill back to Jicin had me back in the door of the motel at 9.50pm.
TO SUMMARISE: When I visited the Tourist Office the following day they guessed I had covered 50kms which came as a shock to me but they studied it while I was walking around town and informed me when I came back it couldn’t be less than 45kms in their estimation.
The red trail takes you through all the main highlights mentioned above and is very well marked over the entire 45-50kms. At some points in open countryside you’ll have to take an educated guess but common sense will keep you right. The entire hike took me 7 and a half hours with no real food or drink stops as time was of the essence for me due to late start so all grub was consumed on the hoof.
There are food and drink outlets at Valdstejn, Hruba Skala, Troitsky Most and Prachovskie Skalni plus other villages south of TM.
I went to Turnov from Jicin on the train and I’d say this route is the most picturesque on your way up there. Bear in mind that the train station is a little hard to find in Jicin due to new development so leave yourself some emergency time to find it.
Jicin is a very quiet town at night but there is a new Turko-German eaterie on the western side of the main square where you can get food and a beer til 1am or so.