HIKING IN THE ALLGAU - July 2012
Mar 20, 2013 1:46:23 GMT
Post by waterhazardjack on Mar 20, 2013 1:46:23 GMT
For some reason, the Allgau region in the south-western pocket of Bavaria tends to be ‘Terra Incognita’ to outsiders, despite being one of the finest areas of outstanding natural beauty in all of Germany and a firm favourite with local tourists. Visitors to this and other fora will seldom come across a report or even a query in relation to Oberstdorf or any of its other pretty towns and villages, but will notice several items regarding day-trips from Munich that cover Fuessen, Garmisch-Partenkirchen, Berchtesgaden and others. One would have thought that with Ryanair flying to Memmingen now that would change, but so far, it doesn’t appear to be the case in any major way…
Arriving at Memmingen, it’s a short bus ride from the airport to the adjacent train and bus stations. From here, I decided to hop on another bus to the nearby village of Ottobeuren which boasts one of the finest abbeys and basilicas in the country. The bus drops you off in the centre and it’s a short hike up to the monastery. There is also a museum, extensive library and upstairs is the KaiserSaal which incurs a small extra charge and features many fine statues of various historical figures.
Back to Memmingen and the train ride south to Oberstdorf is a joy through some spectacular Alpine countryside. Arriving there, I managed to get a bus quickly out to the HI Hostel in the suburb of Kornau which is approx 4kms from town but a steep enough hike in its own right. The HI Hostel is typical of its ilk in Germany but distinguished by the friendliness and helpfulness of its staff. They squeezed me in immediately for evening meal and the half-pension deal is indeed a real bargain.
Oberstdorf itself is a picturesque Alpine town but not too exciting at night. I managed to find a friendly bar called Judith’s Weinstube on the far side of town where I was well looked after on both nights of my stay. Last bus to/from the hostel is approx 9.30pm so after that, it’s either walk down to town or taxi there and back…
Before I left Ireland I spent some time checking out various web-sites plus other guidebooks. My original plan was to attempt a substantial day-hike based around cable-caring up the Nebelhorn and taking it from there. But when I arrived in Kornau and got my bearings, I decided to go for Plan B and base my day around exploring the nearby Breitachklamm and heading into the Kleinwalsertal Valley, using some of the local advice I ascertained in the hostel and bar.
So...left the hostel the following morning and hiked down for approx one hour to the Breitachklamm entrance. Made my way through the impressive gorge which is a visually thrilling experience of maybe 30 minutes duration and then trekked on, east of the river through beautiful countryside, to the Waldhaus for a tasty and satisfying brunch. Well-fortified, I motored on to the bridge over the river and then the steep hike up to the town of Reizlern, arriving approx 4 hours after leaving Kornau.
At Reizlern, where the views along the Kleinwasertal are stupendous, I went into the Tourist Office for advice on the various routes and as it was now after 14.30, I decided to take the Kanzelwandbahn for a thrilling ride up the steep mountainside, up to the summit. Then, at 15.00 exactly, I departed the summit and hiked down by the Alpine lake and across on the lower route beneath the Fellhorn ridge for an hour, as far as the Bergrestaurant where I stopped for a coffee break at 4pm. At this point, having studied the map, I thought it would be more interesting to keep going north towards the Schlappolt Alm rather than descend immediately but in retrospect, this may have been a mistake as from that point on, the descent was by road only and intensely steep and hard on the thighs. At various points, I had no choice but to trot slowly rather than walk, due to the risk of falling over, either frontwards or backwards!
After 90 minutes or so, I came to the junction of various routes at the Fellhornbahn intermediate station and was then able to head north again towards the Freibergersee Lake where I reached the Strand Cafe at 18.40pm for a well deserved 30 minute food break. And then back on the track again through the forest to the Salach River, as the evening sun graciously declined, where I took the route that skirts Oberstdorf as far as the Schlechten Bruecke and, from there, the final stiff 20 minutes back up to Kornau and the hostel at 20.30 approx.
All in all, a great 10 hour day which was a compromise between all the suggestions I received and my own studies and decisions made on the route.
The next day, I checked out of the hostel and headed to the nearby town of Immenstadt. It was early afternoon before I could set-off hiking, having checked-in to the Goldener Adler Hotel, great value at €30 for the night, on the main square. The Tourist Office as closed between 12.30 and 14.00 which was a bit of a nuisance so I decided to chance on without a proper map. I reached the trail heads by the cemetery at 13.30 and after consulting the signage, decided to strike out for the Kemptner NatuerfreundeHaus summit which I thought was an acceptable compromise, due to the late start.
Unfortunately, the previous day's descent was still in my legs and thighs and it was a murderous first hour ascending on the road in high temperatures. However, I persevered and after approx 75 minutes climbing, I found myself at a trail junction in a clearing with magnificent views all around, and a further 15 minutes took me to the NatuerfreundeHaus for a liquid break at just after 15.00. From here it looked like I could hike along the plateau for quite a while but after a brief and pleasant interlude through the cover of the forest, it was another savage descent all the way to Grosser Alpsee with an essential coffee/rest break at the Starkatsgund Alm around 16.30.
So after another difficult 2 hour descent, I was able to grab some food at a camp along the lake, around 18.15 or so. From here it was a boring and slightly tricky walk along the very busy road to Buehl where I was able to relax for a while on the busy marina before resuming and taking the Strandweg back to Immenstadt which I reached at 20.00.
I made an attempt to keep going here and go out the northern side of Immenstadt towards Stein but it was taking me too long to exit the town and I abandoned at 20.30 and adjourned to a restaurant for a well-deserved meal.
Another great day but with an earlier start and any kind of map, I could have chose a better route, maybe the Steineberg route, although I think the Mittagbahn cable car wasn't running and also the Hornweg walking route was closed for repairs, so a map would have been essential.
On the way back to Munich, I stopped off for a couple of hours and had a walk around the pleasant Swabian town of Kempten which is a nice enough place to break the journey, although the train station is quite a way from the centre...hopefully this report might whet the appetites of some as an introduction to hiking in Oberstdorf and its environs in the mighty Allgau...
SOME COSTS:
Bus Memmingen Airport to town - €3.00
Large Locker at Memmingen Station - €3.00
Bus Memingen - Ottobeuren - €3.00
Ottobeuren Abbey Museum & Kaisersaal - €4.00
Bayern-Ticket Single (Memmingen-Oberstdorf) - €22.00
Bus Oberstdorf - Kornau - €1.50
BreitachKlamm Gorge Entrance - €3.50
Bergbahn Kanzelwand - €18.00
Train Oberstdorf - Immenstadt - €5.50
Hotel Goldener Adler (Immenstadt) - €30.00 (bed only - 36.00 with b'f)
Bayern-Ticket Single (Oberstdorf-Munich) - €22.00
* The costs of the HI Hostel in Kornau are explained on its web-site...there is an extra charge for over-26s and also another for non-HI members...half and full-pension deals are available and are very good value...there is no bar but alcohol is available at reception...
Arriving at Memmingen, it’s a short bus ride from the airport to the adjacent train and bus stations. From here, I decided to hop on another bus to the nearby village of Ottobeuren which boasts one of the finest abbeys and basilicas in the country. The bus drops you off in the centre and it’s a short hike up to the monastery. There is also a museum, extensive library and upstairs is the KaiserSaal which incurs a small extra charge and features many fine statues of various historical figures.
Back to Memmingen and the train ride south to Oberstdorf is a joy through some spectacular Alpine countryside. Arriving there, I managed to get a bus quickly out to the HI Hostel in the suburb of Kornau which is approx 4kms from town but a steep enough hike in its own right. The HI Hostel is typical of its ilk in Germany but distinguished by the friendliness and helpfulness of its staff. They squeezed me in immediately for evening meal and the half-pension deal is indeed a real bargain.
Oberstdorf itself is a picturesque Alpine town but not too exciting at night. I managed to find a friendly bar called Judith’s Weinstube on the far side of town where I was well looked after on both nights of my stay. Last bus to/from the hostel is approx 9.30pm so after that, it’s either walk down to town or taxi there and back…
Before I left Ireland I spent some time checking out various web-sites plus other guidebooks. My original plan was to attempt a substantial day-hike based around cable-caring up the Nebelhorn and taking it from there. But when I arrived in Kornau and got my bearings, I decided to go for Plan B and base my day around exploring the nearby Breitachklamm and heading into the Kleinwalsertal Valley, using some of the local advice I ascertained in the hostel and bar.
So...left the hostel the following morning and hiked down for approx one hour to the Breitachklamm entrance. Made my way through the impressive gorge which is a visually thrilling experience of maybe 30 minutes duration and then trekked on, east of the river through beautiful countryside, to the Waldhaus for a tasty and satisfying brunch. Well-fortified, I motored on to the bridge over the river and then the steep hike up to the town of Reizlern, arriving approx 4 hours after leaving Kornau.
At Reizlern, where the views along the Kleinwasertal are stupendous, I went into the Tourist Office for advice on the various routes and as it was now after 14.30, I decided to take the Kanzelwandbahn for a thrilling ride up the steep mountainside, up to the summit. Then, at 15.00 exactly, I departed the summit and hiked down by the Alpine lake and across on the lower route beneath the Fellhorn ridge for an hour, as far as the Bergrestaurant where I stopped for a coffee break at 4pm. At this point, having studied the map, I thought it would be more interesting to keep going north towards the Schlappolt Alm rather than descend immediately but in retrospect, this may have been a mistake as from that point on, the descent was by road only and intensely steep and hard on the thighs. At various points, I had no choice but to trot slowly rather than walk, due to the risk of falling over, either frontwards or backwards!
After 90 minutes or so, I came to the junction of various routes at the Fellhornbahn intermediate station and was then able to head north again towards the Freibergersee Lake where I reached the Strand Cafe at 18.40pm for a well deserved 30 minute food break. And then back on the track again through the forest to the Salach River, as the evening sun graciously declined, where I took the route that skirts Oberstdorf as far as the Schlechten Bruecke and, from there, the final stiff 20 minutes back up to Kornau and the hostel at 20.30 approx.
All in all, a great 10 hour day which was a compromise between all the suggestions I received and my own studies and decisions made on the route.
The next day, I checked out of the hostel and headed to the nearby town of Immenstadt. It was early afternoon before I could set-off hiking, having checked-in to the Goldener Adler Hotel, great value at €30 for the night, on the main square. The Tourist Office as closed between 12.30 and 14.00 which was a bit of a nuisance so I decided to chance on without a proper map. I reached the trail heads by the cemetery at 13.30 and after consulting the signage, decided to strike out for the Kemptner NatuerfreundeHaus summit which I thought was an acceptable compromise, due to the late start.
Unfortunately, the previous day's descent was still in my legs and thighs and it was a murderous first hour ascending on the road in high temperatures. However, I persevered and after approx 75 minutes climbing, I found myself at a trail junction in a clearing with magnificent views all around, and a further 15 minutes took me to the NatuerfreundeHaus for a liquid break at just after 15.00. From here it looked like I could hike along the plateau for quite a while but after a brief and pleasant interlude through the cover of the forest, it was another savage descent all the way to Grosser Alpsee with an essential coffee/rest break at the Starkatsgund Alm around 16.30.
So after another difficult 2 hour descent, I was able to grab some food at a camp along the lake, around 18.15 or so. From here it was a boring and slightly tricky walk along the very busy road to Buehl where I was able to relax for a while on the busy marina before resuming and taking the Strandweg back to Immenstadt which I reached at 20.00.
I made an attempt to keep going here and go out the northern side of Immenstadt towards Stein but it was taking me too long to exit the town and I abandoned at 20.30 and adjourned to a restaurant for a well-deserved meal.
Another great day but with an earlier start and any kind of map, I could have chose a better route, maybe the Steineberg route, although I think the Mittagbahn cable car wasn't running and also the Hornweg walking route was closed for repairs, so a map would have been essential.
On the way back to Munich, I stopped off for a couple of hours and had a walk around the pleasant Swabian town of Kempten which is a nice enough place to break the journey, although the train station is quite a way from the centre...hopefully this report might whet the appetites of some as an introduction to hiking in Oberstdorf and its environs in the mighty Allgau...
SOME COSTS:
Bus Memmingen Airport to town - €3.00
Large Locker at Memmingen Station - €3.00
Bus Memingen - Ottobeuren - €3.00
Ottobeuren Abbey Museum & Kaisersaal - €4.00
Bayern-Ticket Single (Memmingen-Oberstdorf) - €22.00
Bus Oberstdorf - Kornau - €1.50
BreitachKlamm Gorge Entrance - €3.50
Bergbahn Kanzelwand - €18.00
Train Oberstdorf - Immenstadt - €5.50
Hotel Goldener Adler (Immenstadt) - €30.00 (bed only - 36.00 with b'f)
Bayern-Ticket Single (Oberstdorf-Munich) - €22.00
* The costs of the HI Hostel in Kornau are explained on its web-site...there is an extra charge for over-26s and also another for non-HI members...half and full-pension deals are available and are very good value...there is no bar but alcohol is available at reception...
