|
Post by bixaorellana on Jun 19, 2014 5:32:03 GMT
The Etlas are a group of villages north of the city of Oaxaca which come under the umbrella of the municipality Villa de Etla. This thread will only cover a small portion of the area for now. In 1998 I lived in San Sebastian Etla, way up on the side of a mountain. Before that, the first Day of the Dead festivities I ever attended were held in San Agustín Etla. I've always felt this area is the prettiest part of the valleys, and spending the day there recently only confirmed that. I met up with two friends in downtown Oaxaca & we set off to see the paper factory and the arts center in San Agustín and the weekly market in Villa de Etla. We visited the paper factory first, one of Franciso Toledo's projects. It's located in the barrio Vista Hermosa (Lovely View) in San Agustín, and seldom was a place so perfectly named. Before exploring the site, we simply stood and marveled at the views, the fresh clean air alive with birdsong, and the symphony of running water to be heard all around us. mango giant KalanchoeFinally we decided to go in and take a look at the main building, which was once a hydroelectric power plant ~We wandered out the back, where sheets of handmade paper were drying in the sun, next to a rack of fiber made from the mother-in-law's tongue plant. My companions wanted to see what was up the path beyond the rack of fiber. They were dressed for hiking, but since I was dressed for something official I'd had to do before meeting them, I didn't want to go through the mud. They set off & I stayed to wander around and take pictures. I'm going to bed now, but please stay tuned as there is much more to show.
|
|
|
Post by bixaorellana on Jun 19, 2014 15:01:17 GMT
|
|
|
Post by bixaorellana on Jun 19, 2014 15:23:58 GMT
The main building is on a bluff overlooking a stream, so I descended the steps and rounded the stone retaining wall to arrive at the hobbit-like paper making building ~ Picking up the frame loaded with pulp, pressing it down on a drying sheet, then pulling away the frame ~ The gorgeous kites and prints made with the paper produced here ~The elephant motif was duplicated on a variety of objects, including a large panel of etched glass up at the Arts Center ~And outside to go back up the steps. The red brick structure is the rotting vat. The building just beyond it another charming workspace where paper jewelry and kites are assembled.
|
|
|
Post by bixaorellana on Jun 19, 2014 15:44:05 GMT
Exiting the little building past some of the conduit from the old hydroelectric plant ~ This is where I meet my companions so we can proceed to San Agustín's magnificent Arts Center. But before we go, here is some more information on the paper factory and a youtube look at the site. (not my video) ~
|
|
|
Post by Deleted on Jun 19, 2014 16:37:32 GMT
My two favourites so far are the scorpion floor tiles and the vines serving as a window screen.
|
|
|
Post by lagatta on Jun 20, 2014 3:06:30 GMT
That is lovely, bixa.
|
|
|
Post by bixaorellana on Jun 20, 2014 4:20:26 GMT
Kerouac, I think those vines want to eat the window.
I went into the ladies room of a ritzy restaurant here & was charmed by the floor tiles with their bat motif designed by Maestro Toledo. They were most effective in that tiny room.
Thank you so much, LaGatta. I had company so am behind on making this report. I hope you'll return for the Arts Center and the visit to Etla.
|
|
|
Post by bixaorellana on Jun 20, 2014 5:09:17 GMT
My companions returned from their hike & announced that the path led directly & quickly up to the Arts Center. So I took off my sandals in order to squish through the mud and we proceeded through the jungly vegetation up the hill to The Arts CenterThe Center is properly known as El Centro de las Artes San Agustín Etla, or "CASA". The building was a spinning and weaving factory founded in 1883 by José Zorrilla Trápaga for manufacturing raw cotton yarns, blankets, and denim fabrics. It was abandoned sometime in the 1980s and purchased by Francisco Toledo in 2000 in order to create the first eco-arts center in Latin America. CASA opened its doors on March 21, 2006. ( source of preceding information)There were two shows at the center, one a silver exhibition upstairs that many people had raved about and downstairs was " Scissor, Paper, Stone". The truth was that I was more eager to explore the brilliantly designed areas around the main building, as you will see. But let's go inside, turn around & look back out ~
|
|
|
Post by bixaorellana on Jun 20, 2014 5:21:49 GMT
|
|
|
Post by htmb on Jun 20, 2014 5:42:48 GMT
Bixa, this is a real feast for the eyes. A wonderful report! I'm looking forward to seeing more. The vegetation, buildings, paper making. All fascinating!!!
|
|
|
Post by bixaorellana on Jun 20, 2014 5:49:24 GMT
|
|
|
Post by bixaorellana on Jun 20, 2014 5:52:51 GMT
Thank you, Htmb! I didn't see your reply until I posted. Your nature photos are so fabulous, I would love to see how you'd render the views here. You'd also probably be able to identify the many raptors wheeling overhead.
|
|
|
Post by Deleted on Jun 20, 2014 6:13:56 GMT
It does look like a wonderful place. Even though those steps don't look dangerous under most circumstances, I imagine they can do a lot more damage than traditional stairs if you happen to fall down.
|
|
|
Post by bjd on Jun 20, 2014 7:26:55 GMT
This is lovely -- much simpler in design and colour that most of what you show us in Mexico. That exhibition space in particular is really nice because it doesn't distract from what is shown.
|
|
|
Post by bixaorellana on Jun 20, 2014 16:26:24 GMT
It is lovely, and the feeling there is so calming and pleasant that an R x could be written for a person to visit on a weekday morning in lieu of a bottle of anti-depressants. Kerouac, I wasn't even tempted by those steps. For one thing, they remind me of the scary African rocks in one of the Exorcist sequels and for another thing, I'm lazy. The blocky stairs are probably catnip to little kids, though. Bjd, the main building is a great example of utilitarian architecture of that period, and certainly Claudina Morales Lopez, the architect who designed the current space, did a brilliant job. It would be interesting to know what is original and what's contemporary. What continually struck me was how perfectly integrated all the various parts were, beautifully showcasing themselves and the surrounding countryside. For instance, in the photos above you can see how the church steeple seems deliberately framed by the old furnace(?) and the buildings which may or may not be original to the site. But enough of my telling about it, let me show you ....... This is the building that was my objective in descending the steps by the flowery wall. The gentle green amid the shadows was tempting after the sunny yellow of the space above ~I could see that there was fretwork running all around the eaves & which added to the romantic aspect of the house. But what's this? Rude boys!The gallery runs all the way around, to finally butt up to the wall of the adjacent church grounds ~Gorgeous views in all directions ~The green building houses offices and a small gift shop. Apparently I was too blissed out to remember to photograph the interior. The items in the shop are all quite elegant and artistic, with commensurate prices.
|
|
|
Post by bixaorellana on Jun 20, 2014 16:40:22 GMT
The musical sound of running water, either natural or channeled, is everywhere, as on the side of this building ... ... or providing a home for these finny friends ~We're going to leave this area briefly in order to go see the church, but will be back for more of the magnificent arts center. Here is the green building seen from below ~
|
|
|
Post by Deleted on Jun 20, 2014 17:08:21 GMT
Going back to the big industrial art gallery, I think that one of the best things about places like this is that the artworks are almost often given huge spaces for people to be able to appreciate them properly.
I have been to too many galleries where things are all crammed together just because there is no other way to do it.
|
|
|
Post by tod2 on Jun 20, 2014 17:58:37 GMT
Oh wow Bixa, this is just fab! Have to go back and look at everything again and again. How lucky you are to have a wealth of art on your doorstep! Lovely, lovely bright clear and well composed photos!
|
|
|
Post by fumobici on Jun 20, 2014 20:06:32 GMT
I can feel something magical in these photos and in this place.
|
|
|
Post by bixaorellana on Jun 20, 2014 20:35:44 GMT
So true about having ample space for viewing art, Kerouac In the case of the Arts Center, the surroundings seem to recede, making for the perfect contemplative mood. Thanks so much, Tod! San Agustín is far enough from town not be be exactly on the doorstep, but that makes it all the more a treasure. Not advertising for anyone, but in looking up info for this report, I found a surprising number of very interesting airb&b listings. I have to confess that I was so seduced by the outside space that I didn't really pay enough attention to the art on exhibit, despite all of it being excellent. There was also wonderful photography, including some by the fabulous Graciela Iturbide. You might remember her, Tod, as being the maker of the famous iguana woman picture. And -- full disclosure -- I completely forgot about the silver exhibit until a few minutes before I'd arranged to meet up with my friends again. At that time, I ran upstairs, but found it too stuffy and sedate after the glories outside. I did note that there were dazzling things to be seen, though, so should probably go back out to see them. Now let's go see The ChurchWater here, too ~A view from the door of the church ~This might be the inspiration for the carpenter gothic touches we saw on the green building next door ~
|
|
|
Post by bixaorellana on Jun 20, 2014 20:56:01 GMT
Missed your post as I was making mine, Fumobici, but thank you SO much! There's always that worry that what one sees doesn't come across the monitor to others, so your thoughtful comment was most reassuring. Speaking of reassuring, those of you allergic to holy water should know there are only a few more church pictures and then we'll trot back to the Arts Center.
|
|
|
Post by bixaorellana on Jun 20, 2014 21:16:45 GMT
After the careful ordering we see in the rest of the church, this grouping in an alcove is particularly disconcerting ~This casket of the interred Christ was at the entrance to the alcove ~Tried to get a picture of the face, but got a nice noitcelfer instead ~Wandering around the edges, I found homely details and a man quietly working in a sunny side room. Incidentally, the time was really 2:17. In common with many other villages around here, San Agustín appears to be blithely ignoring daylight savings time.Time to get out of here and catch a bit more of the Arts Center.
'Bye y'all!
|
|
|
Post by htmb on Jun 20, 2014 21:52:22 GMT
I can feel something magical in these photos and in this place. I agree completely!!!
|
|
|
Post by bixaorellana on Jun 22, 2014 0:27:54 GMT
|
|
|
Post by bixaorellana on Jun 22, 2014 0:39:40 GMT
A work in progress and a waterfall ~Alas, it's time to meet up with my companions, then get on to the next stop before the rain starts ~
|
|
|
Post by htmb on Jun 22, 2014 10:17:45 GMT
Bixa, how far is this area from where you live now? Your photos and descriptions are wonderful. What a beautiful, peaceful place! Forgive me if I missed this detail, but is it somewhat isolated from more populated areas?
|
|
|
Post by bixaorellana on Jun 22, 2014 16:43:36 GMT
Thank you, Htmb! San Agustín is @14 miles north of the city. Here is a map. You may need to click on the minus in the lower right side to get a better idea. This area has grown enormously in the last ten years, but as you can see, still retains a lovely rural feel, despite some well-populated pockets. My landlords live north of the city and tell me that tons of gringos have moved out there. When I was googling info for this report, I was amazed at how many b&bs/houses/apts. were offered for tourist stays. I'm covering Etla in the next section of this report, and part of that will be how surprised I was at its growth.
|
|
|
Post by Deleted on Jun 22, 2014 20:17:31 GMT
Looking at the photos again, I am finding them more and more fabulous, especially when there is the contrast of the ochre walls and floor tiles and the blue skies, one of the most beautiful combinations ever invented.
|
|
|
Post by htmb on Jun 22, 2014 21:04:19 GMT
While I also love the colorful photos, the first picture in black and white is an absolute knockout, too!
|
|
|
Post by mossie on Jun 23, 2014 14:35:59 GMT
What a super colourful thread, thanks very much Bixa.
By the way "Rude boys", I don't think they are rude, just boastful. I only need one hand.
|
|