Normandy, high and low, in one day

[breeze]

One day in May we drove diagonally through Normandy, starting from about as far southeast as you can go and still be in lower Normandy and ending up nearly at the northwest corner in upper Normandy. We went from Mortagne-au-Perche to Ouvrille-la-Riviere

We planned the day’s drive to take in as many scenic routes and villages as possible.

In the morning we gassed up and euroed up at Mortagne-au-Perche. Then we headed north on country roads. After a certain point we could tell we weren’t in the Perche anymore. It was still pretty, but different.

Our first stop was Gacé, an attractive town full of pink brick, a color which is rare in the parts of France we’ve visited in recent years.

[breeze]

This town was the home of a charming young umbrella–seller who left Gacé behind in her teens. After a few years of being the toast of Paris, she died young.



Alphonsine Plessis, the Dame aux Camellias, is the town’s claim to fame. We strolled around and took photos. There wasn’t much else to do that early in the day. The town wasn’t exactly bustling, but it looked comfortable, maybe even prosperous.

[breeze]

The next stop, Le Sap, was architecturally and wisterially interesting, but not prosperous or busy. We drove all around the little town and the mairie was the most interesting part. Again, there was that unusual pinkish brick.

[breeze]

Still in Le Sap.

[breeze]

Our next planned stop was Bernay, but as we approached Broglie E suggested we see what was there and I’m glad we did. Broglie makes a feature of the river running through it. There’s a charming jardin aquatique, nicely planted within sound of rushing water and with a view of homes and gardens on the other side of the river.

[breeze]

On to Bernay, and after that the next stop was Beaumont-le-Roger. We walked up to the priory ruins on the hillside. Some restoration or stabilization was going on. There’s a sign warning about vipers but nothing about wearing a hardhat, which seemed to be called for.

[breeze]

We stopped at Le Neuborg and got in a traffic jam and then got lost. We needed the assistance of the tourist office to find our way out of town, which must be discouraging to someone whose job is to be a town booster, but the woman was nice about it. Maybe we weren't the first.

On we went, through the forest of Brotonne. Down by the Seine, we waited for the bac at Herteauville and took our little river cruise across the Seine, along with a woman and baby on a bike. Cutest hat on the baby. I really wanted a photo of the baby but the ferry trip is short and by the time we landed I still hadn’t worked out anything less primitive than “OK photo bébé?”

[breeze]

We didn’t have time to do my planned route near Jumieges, so we went straight to Duclair and then via scenic routes with many mistakes to Ouville-la-Riviere. Because we were running late, when we bumbled off the planned scenic route we didn’t try very hard to get back on, but nearly all the roads were pretty anyway.

Somewhere in there, at Yainville, we drove by a Christofle outlet (fine silver). I guess we weren't on the sleepy back roads of lower Normandy anymore.

Our B&B for the night was at Ouville-la-Riviere, the Manoir de Tessy, which turned out to be an architectural gem itself. I think the date over the front door is 1584. Its 16 th century dovecote is one of the finest I can remember seeing. They’ve planted an arboretum so there are many young ornamental trees.

[htmb]

With every picture you post, Breeze, I think to myself, "I want to go there!" You have been to some lovely little towns. I'm enjoying this new series.

It makes it very hard to be an armchair traveler!!!!

[breeze]

htmb, you're already planning your next trip, aren't you? How long will you have?

I have the impression that France as a whole is pretty photogenic. It's not that E and I happened upon outstandingly photogenic towns. Of course I admit that I only show the best photos.

[htmb]

I've been planning my next trip since the day I returned from my last trip.

I'm not sure how long I'll have, Breeze. Still trying to decide. At minimum five or six weeks.

[mossie]

Thanks for this little rural tour, France does offer a wide range of scenic areas, a gift to photographers.

[lola]

Lovely photos, breeze. Thank you! Architectural and natural beauty all around. What a good idea for a tour. How was the driving?

I never realized Camille/Alphonsine was an umbrella seller. My daughter and I will be seeing her opera next month at Covent Garden. Another chance to shed tears in her memory.

Funny about the viper sign.

[breeze]

lola, I'm glad you liked the photos. There's very little traffic on the D roads. I think the worst stretch that day was through Duclair (and downtown Le Neuborg) and that was partly due to our timing.

The reason for this drive was to visit two special gardens at Varengeville-sur-Mer and see beautiful little Veules-les-Roses on the coast. In that area we also had the luck to come across an unheralded garden of wild plants--all the roadside and forest plants identified.

[lola]

Nice. I am a plant ID person, too. I love seeing how many trees and other wild plants France has in common with us in Missouri USA.

[tod2]

Breeze, I just love your photos and narrative! I love France and only wish I could see more but at our age a lot of planning is needed so as not to make it a journey of stress and regret.

[Deleted]

One of the best things additional advantage of visiting these little towns is that it is almost always easy to stop and park. In bigger towns, you often pass by extraordinary things but there is no place to stop the car.

[breeze]

Tod, from Paris you could take some day trips by car. I believe there might be a super planner and reliable driver available to you.

But I agree that everyone should first see what they really want to, and Paris still holds a lot of fascination for you.

At one time I think I'd mentioned on anyport the needle museum near L'Aigle and you said you'd be interested. We, two people with very little interest in pins and needles, did go and found the museum fascinating. But I'm pretty sure it wouldn't be worth your while to drive from Paris to see just that.

[Deleted]

What a wonderful report Breeze!!

I had to double check what season of the year and now see the verdant springtime in all it's glory.

A 1500's B&B!! WOW!!
Were there historical elements in evidence? If so, which I well imagine there was, might you embelish on this?

Wisterial indeed!!!!

I noticed the glaring absence of people or cars.
Was it really that quiet??

Thanks for the sharing of your journey.

[breeze]

Casimira, even though I was paying attention to that very thing in the building we stayed in, I don't think I can answer your question. The parts of the building we saw, which were only our two rooms and bath and the dining room, were modern.

The only thing in the building that struck me as ancient was the central staircase. The thick steps were very worn, so the wear had to come from centuries of use. Also, the tread-riser ratio was way off, making it awkward to go up or down, so I assume this staircase was original.

At the time I took these pictures, the towns really were fairly free of people. Never car free, though. We visited some gorgeous gardens over the next three days and they were packed, so that must be where all the people got to.









When we were there they had a small gite (rented by the week), and I see by their website that they are working on a 6-person gite.

[bixaorellana]

SO glad this thread was revived, as I completely missed it the first time around.

Breeze, I love architectural photos and you really delivered with these, along with some wonderful scenery and plant pictures.