Another final trip......perhaps

[mossie]

Yes, I have made yet another visit and returned safe and sound but very weary, too much walking. I was staying at my normal place Ibis Styles Buttes Chaumont and had what is perhaps the best single room.



The Ibis people refurbished the little garden which is on the roof of the Restaurant Le Laumiere on the ground floor. The well at the bottome of the shot allows light into the side windows of the restaurant and contains a water feature and a bit of greenery on the far wall to afford a reasonable view for patrons.

But this trip I wanted to do a bit of the Left Bank for a change, and headed for St Sulpice, perhaps the smartest Parisian church



There is a marvellous fountain opposite the entrance



But at the side of the steps up to the entrance a refugee had obviously taken up residence and was advertising his services in front of his belongings, no doubt he was busy near by.



But moving inside the church one is obviously struck by the riches endowed on it. One cannot hear the word of the Lord from a grander place



The contrast with this modernistic sculpture of heavens door is striking



Having explored the church it was coffee time and I found a cafe just outside. Luckily I sat under the big awning on the terrasse as a heavy rain shower passed over. Then continuing to explore the area immediately came upon another fancy piece of modernism. Had the shower been that heavy ?



This is right across from the famous Deux Magots, does that really mean two dog ends?



I had a quick look in the church of St Germain de Pres, but it is being done up and seemed poor and plain. Leaving it I found this charming artist with her back to the church, sketching the surroundings



Wandering towards the river spotted this little car, in which one can have a personalised sightseeing tour.



and some exotic shops



Some pretty little frogs adorned a courtyard



But I was heading for my lunch back in the Marais and crossed the Seine at the end of Notre Dame



I took the opportunity to sit in the gardens at the end of the Island and take in the views



As we might unkindly say "Nice arse, shame about the face", sorry, I can't help being taken by a good figure.



Graffiti is everywhere



I'll give it a rest now and bore you with some more later

[htmb]

I've always liked that fountain.
That's an odd sculpture inside the church. I'm not sure I approve.

Mossie, did you walk all the way from Saint-Sulpice to your lunch in the Marais? That's a hike!

[mich64]

I agree htmb! if you walked from Saint-Sulpice to the Marais, that is quite a long walk!

Saint-Sulpice is one of my favourites to visit Mossie. It was wonderful to see current photographs.

I look forward to enjoying more photos of your trip!

[Deleted]

The fountain with the breaking slabs is at Place du Québec and represents the winter ice breaking up on the St. Lawrence River.

As for Les Deux Magots, a magot used to be a Chinese figurine. Two of these used to grace the entrance of the previous establishment at that location, which sold silk underwear. In modern times, magot (singular only) is slang for the loot from a heist. You would hear the word a lot in those old black-en-white French gangster movies.

Mossie, your photos always convey your love of walking around the city and disovering things along the way. Your new camera did a good job!

[bixaorellana]

I'll say, a good job indeed ~ you can almost walk through the monitor & be where Mossie was! Dazzling photos, Mossie -- the water in that fountain ~ wow! I walked some of that same area this summer, so your pictures are a double treat. I have to agree with you about St Germain de Pres, but I'm not sorry I visited it.
Awaiting more "boredom".

[mossie]

Thanks for all the kind words, I am still feeling rather shattered from all the walking, even though it was broken up by frequent rests on benches or coffee stops. There was also odd rain showers which I dodged in bars or cafes, here is a shot of Ave Laumiere one evening



and for atmosphere, here is dawn from my bedroom window



Of course a visit to the bassin de la Villette was a given



Where this optimist was attempting to fish, right next to an area barricaded off, I guess for the swimmers



I was surprised to notice that the Eiffel Tower even intrudes here



The safety boat was attending to a rower who seemed to have forgotten how to row



looking up to the Crimee pont levant I thought the building in the distance gave the impression of a great cruise liner in dock, but my telephoto lens put me right



I was on my way to pick up Metro 7 at Riquet for my traditional visit to Galeries Lafayette



That included a lengthy coffee stop, and now it is tea time.

[Deleted]

The Christmas tree should be arriving any minute now!

That big building on the canal is the Grands Moulins de Pantin, now a huge office complex for BNP Paribas.

[htmb]

The colors in your photos are terrific, Mossie, especially in the last picture. I am dying to know what camera you purchased (I'd actually sent you an email about it, but I see now it was while you were on your trip). Looking forward to more pictures.

[mossie]

Thanks for putting me straight on that building Kerouac, don't supposed many employees are too impressed by having to travel out to Pantin.

Any way, back to my wanderings, which included a meal at one of my favourites, l'Elephant du Nil. It didn't let me down, with another little family shot. Junior is getting his grub first! But looking closer I realised it was not a conventional family, there was grandma, mum and baby, but what I first assumed to be dad had earrings and was female. Oh well, that's life as they say



The waitress brightened my day



I noted the place includes a "stairway to heaven"



I remember being told the origin of "plaster of Paris" being because an early Louis around 1300, had decreed that all the timber buildings had to be plastered over with the gypsum, of which there was a plentiful supply in the hills of Montmartre and Belleville. This was an attempt to fireproof the city which had suffered a series of fires in the closely packed timber buildings of the time. A great pity that London did not follow suit as witness the Great Fire of 1666. I noticed this example of a timber building which had moved a bit and cracked the plaster facing. Note how it is scored to represent stonework, but that is just a con trick.



I am fixated on Belleville and decided on a stroll down the rue de Belleville, starting at the sensible end at Place des Fetes. Getting off the bus I see an event at the Regard on the ancient water supply to the city. On asking I was told it was part of a city wide event to open up municipal buildings. this building is where the water could be inspected to ensure it was pure and flowing easily. the belleville hills had many good springs in days gone by.



Walking on down the hill I pass through this greengrocer's shop straddling the path with some of it in the road, would not be allowed here.



I was heading for St Jean Baptiste where I could have another sit down



There were plenty of chairs to pick from



At least this time I managed to get a decent shot of the pulpit



Rested, I carried on rambling downhill and spotted this courtyard entrance



I don't know the significance of this plaque over the arch



But I was in street art territory and ran into the zoo



Not a tiger by the tail, but worse



I have what the elephant is having (or perhaps not!)



If you are going in for street art in strange places it may be best to be taking something stronger



There is a short stretch of the rue de Belleville where you get a classic view of the Eiffel



Here it is again



I'm getting carried away, so will give you all a rest now.

[lagatta]

Mossie, I can't guarantee that, but I've already seen those bas-reliefs of working-class family (note Father with hammer and craftsman's apron) in early French social housing. I get the idea that is means it is a place where families with limited means can bring up happy and healthy children, though if this is the case that family might also warrant some lessons on birth control...

If I recall, Kerouac explained that those places had plumbing, sanitary facilities and electricity (at least for lights) before most working-class or rural Frenchpeople could hope for them.

I really like what I see of your hotel, though I do hope I can find something reasonably priced with a wee kitchenette... or a studio rental.

[fumobici]

You've got a great touch for finding and framing shots Mossie, well done. I'm not sure quite why but your Paris photo essays make me miss the place more than most do.

[patricklondon]

Sept 21, 2016 18:59:06 GMT mossie said:

I don't know the significance of this plaque over the arch

I'm guessing here, but I'm suspecting that the building was meant as model apartments for model families in an attempt to encourage respectability among the lower orders - industrious father, studious son, caring mother and adorable daughters, something like that.

Fascinating photos. I enjoy a walk around Belleville too. About time I went again.

[mossie]

I'll try and wrap this up, but no promises. It is a couple of years since I tried the ascent of the mountain in the parc des Buttes Chaumont, so was determined to give it a go. The weather was none too kind as this shot of Sacre Coeur from the temple of Sybille shows.



While there I spotted this in the centre of the temple. Wrong Peter unfortunately.



and another bench end just below



From the top I spotted a huge exercise class



returning to ground level, the parc was as busy as ever



When I had entered I spotted one of the little green men sweeping up th leaves the lazy way



and a vegetable bed





With this desperate notice



On a previous visit I had seen a heron, and watched it fly off round behind the island, so decided to search for it. When I first spotted it I thought it might be a model to fool people as it sat so still.



But then it moved and started preening



For anyone interested it lives around, here, between the two prominent rocks in the centre on the far shore. About the most secluded and inaccessible place.



My Belleville stroll finished in rue Desnoyez, and I struck perhaps the most pornographic painting I saw



One of the resident? artists was hard at work



There is a wide selection to choose from



There was this young lady with her two buckets, one for paste and one for posters, pasting up flyers for the forthcoming Portes Ouvertes de Menilmontant which is at the end of this month



Normal residents have to endure the everchanging scenery



Even the humble traffic cones don't escape the artists spray cans



In another street someone was putting eight fingers up to their neighbour across the street



I passed by the nicely cleaned up Republique one damp evening and on that note will say goodbye.

[Deleted]

Beautiful report, as always. The kraken has been appearing all over Paris recently.

[bixaorellana]

Sorry for the late reply. Wifi issues meant I could only see the top portion of your latest pictures. I can see them all now & it was really worth the wait. Thanks for the wonderful walk around and all those fabulous shots. Ditto on what others have said about the fabulous framing, super candids, surprising street views, etc. Just beautiful!

[tod2]

What a lovely stroll through so much familiar territory for me ! Wonderful. I was so pleased you found the Jardin du Regard de la Lanterne - It's a strange but fascinating construction.
Unfortunately I did not get to Belleville this trip - actually did not make it to many places I was hoping to visit.
Your walking is pretty good Mossie - I hope to do just as well when I'm your age but can see I definitely will need that hip replacement. Something not right with my right knee either.
Still you have given me encouragement that all is not lost if one strolls awhile and sits taking in the scenery even longer!

[lugg]

Another super report Mossie , love your photos and your humour as always. I really hope I have half as much energy as you in another 20 years or so.

[Jazz]

Mossie, all of your threads are special. This one I selected because I love the first photograph of the simple, beautiful garden of your hotel in the 19th arrondissement and one day I'll stay there. All of your posts could be considered a celebration of life and vitality. Your Paris threads are especially meaningful to me. Fresh and unique.

I do laugh at the title, 'another final trip...perhaps'___then we read more and more glorious threads.

To read all of Mossie's threads, anyportinastorm.proboards.com/user/270/recent_threads

[lagatta]

Oh Jazz, I'm so happy to hear from you! Yes, I hope to stay there too. I have several friends not far from there. We will have to ask Mossie which is the magic room. It is a busy area, and one is better off on the courtyard than on the street side.

Hope all is well in Toronto.

[Jazz]

Dear Marie, lovely to hear from you as well. Things here in Toronto are good. In my own life, somewhat more chaotic, as usual. My life as I know it, is not calm. Not now and probably never.

Yes, we'll have to ask Mossie about the 'best' room. Since he first mentioned the hotel, I want to go. I'd heard about it before (hither and yon) but loved his first person thoughts. It just seems to be a perfect base for a visit to Paris.

[lagatta]

Yes, generally that is the area of Paris where I feel most at home, and several friends live nearby. I'm no longer of an age to "crash" on someone's sofa, and of course they have small dwellings, some with children, another with a roommate, though he is a boomer too - just so expensive there even in such "modest" areas. I haven't taken the tram ringing most of Paris yet, and am more than a bit of a public transport geek.

[mossie]

What I call the 'best' room is room 12. It is close to the lift so that may bother you, but is on the quieter garden side. When booking I simply specify the premier etage and get one of the rooms on the street side, these were the smaller single rooms in the good old days, but nowadays have a king size bed which practically fills the room. The windows are double glazed so the traffic on rue Petit doesn't bother me and my hearing is not too good, many years spent around noisy planes, asphalt plants and compressor guns have not improved my ears. I have stayed there well over 20 times over the years, and it has become a habit, I do not have to think about the journey, simply ensure I have the tickets. The staff are good and the place is basic and unpretentious, which suits me, so if, as I hope to go again, I will return. I will reserve judgement to see how I weather this winter and then decide.

[lagatta]

I definitely do NOT want a king-sized bed, even if I find romance, which I am not seeking.

A lift doesn't bother me in the slightest. I like that view on the courtyard, although or rather become it is a normal courtyard. Do those rooms have a wee fridge? That and a decent desk where I can work on my laptop are the only other specific requirements.

I want to remind everyone of a thread started by K2 about rue Petit as one of the most Jewish streets, though it is also very multi-culti in general. anyportinastorm.proboards.com/thread/5603/new-jewish-areas-paris

[lagatta]

Dec 18, 2018 23:54:19 GMT Jazz said:

Mossie, all of your threads are special. This one I selected because I love the first photograph of the simple, beautiful garden of your hotel in the 19th arrondissement and one day I'll stay there. All of your posts could be considered a celebration of life and vitality. Your Paris threads are especially meaningful to me. Fresh and unique.

I do laugh at the title, 'another final trip...perhaps'___then we read more and more glorious threads.

To read all of Mossie's threads, anyportinastorm.proboards.com/user/270/recent_threads

I have a friend in Paris who is older than Mossie and who was in the Resistance in Normandy as a very young man. He worked on transporting Jewish people and antifascists to Britain and other places.

[lagatta]

I must credit Heather Stimmler Hall from Secrets of Paris with this splendid initiative: www.plantespourtous.co/ Plantes pour tous, selling affordable houseplants to Parisians (and people in other French cities). www.secretsofparis.com/heathers-secret-blog/inexpensive-houseplants-by-plantes-pour-tous.html