San Martín Tilcajete ~ where the wild things are

[bixaorellana]

As you know, Lent is the six-week period leading up to Easter in the Christian calendar, traditionally observed as a solemn period of fasting and contemplation. That is surely the reason that the pagan festival of carnival got co-opted as a useful precursor to Lent, carnival being a last chance for indulgence before the lean times. Carnival has its different manifestations around the world, with those of Rio De Janeiro, Venice, and New Orleans being among the particularly well-known ones.

But a tiny town in Mexico's state of Oaxaca is no slouch when it comes to pulling out all the stops for carnival. You could even say that this town is particularly suited to the creation of fantasy, as their claim to fame is the creation of alebrijes -- creatures from a fever dream, brilliantly carved of wood and intricately painted in extravaganzas of design and color.

More of that later. Right now we're off to see the exuberant grease-smeared devils at the town carnival. I set off on the 14 mile trip from Oaxaca with
Kate, a freelance photographer. This was my second time seeing San Martín's carnival, and her first, along with her first visit to Oaxaca.

We scored with devil sightings as soon as we hit town, so let's start with a gallery of red devils ~

[questa]

OH, WOW! They look scary, specially the horned men.I'm glad we got a look before it gets crowded. Musing on these (and previous collections you have shown us) I have some questions.

1 Do the Oaxacans really like dressing up or is it a bit of a chore?

2 How many days in the year are dress up days or nights?

3 Are the younger kids scared of these creatures?

4 Has there been any studies done re nightmares, phobias etc in older kids. associated with the costumes.
(Could be the dressing up/creepy outfits are an outlet for anxieties)

5 What have the men used to get that red shiny skin, so good for photos.

I can't wait to see more.

[bixaorellana]

Good questions, Questa! Oh, I think they must like it, because it's done with enthusiasm.
The only real dress-up time in the city are the days of the dead, but various towns around the state have festivals honoring their saints or something else, and then there are often traditional dances featuring their specific time-honored costumes. This goes on all over the country.
I saw a little boy get scared at this carnival last year by a demon. But as you can see by the very young age of some of the boys above, they can't wait to join in.
I've never heard of any such studies, or indeed any attendant traumas. Dressing up in outlandish costumes goes back to the dawn of time, so you'd have to go to anthropological sources for theories on the reasons.
I believe that red stuff is diesel oil, but I don't really know.
And thanks!

Naturally there are some alebrije tables, along with a pastry table ~





There is a lull in the demon activity, so we set off to the dusty side streets ~



There are alebrije workshops all over town and signs inviting you to visit them ~



We went into a friendly workshop. It was Kate's first exposure & she was enthralled, but I got caught up in the not-yet-painted ones ~



I asked a young man there when he started with alebrijes. He said he learned to sand at age six and began carving at age twelve ~

[bixaorellana]

More wandering. I stick my nose into an open doorway, my eye caught by this fierce masked figure practicing his moves ~



Even though they were deep into their preparations, the kind guys invited us in and even offered to show us alebrijes.
We declined, but were very pleased to be allowed to stay and even take pictures ~







You gotta love it!

[bixaorellana]

I meander on down the deserted street ~





Colorín ~





A parking lot -- a beautiful parking lot ~



What one finds in a San Martín parking lot ~



The parking lot is across the street from this workshop complex ~





The large gate between those two colorful walls is lackadaisically guarded by this fantastic-looking but very real beast, a xoloitzcuintle ~





You can see that neither the xolo nor the nice yellow dog wanted any part of these beasts ~

[kerouac2]

Even more fantastic than usual, Bixa. You keep making these earth shaking reports and all of Oaxaca begins to rumble.

Oaxaca rocked by 7.2-magnitude quake

[questa]

The colours, the colours! Bixa you have caught me again. Why we stick with drab, non-colours here in Oz when with our light and landscape we could create such pizzazz as this.

[kerouac2]

I cannot help noticing some similarities with the mudmen of New Guinea. It's interesting that half a planet away, different cultures have the same idea.

[bixaorellana]

I am allowed to wander around the complex. I haven't been here in years and it's grown so much I don't recognize it ~





Even the plants in San Martín are fantasy plants ~





Inside there is an altar ...



... and work rooms plus some beautiful galleries ~











The pieces in the garden are drying until they reach the point where they can be painted. There is also a controlled drying room.

[bixaorellana]

Thanks to you both!

Kerouac, I didn't see the mud men connection until you mentioned it. There was only a small group of the mud-encrusted ones, and they all had the very sleek, elaborate masks you see in the pictures.

Questa, I definitely thought of you when I snapped that big bougainvillea against the orange wall. You are so right that Australia has the light and the scope to really take off with color. What would happen if you introduced it in your neighborhood?

[questa]

Firing squad and last cigarette, probably.

I have a narrow strip of garden at the front of my flat. My 4 neighbours have a few dainty flowers in pots but mine has 6 brilliant bougainvilleas currently ablaze with colour and flaunting it. Tomorrow...photos.

[cheerypeabrain]

Wow...the colours leap off the page Bixa, vibrant and exciting...I think that Questa asked all the questions that leap to mind. People all over the world celebrate in similar ways don't they? seeing your Devil Men reminds me of the times I've been happily terrified by Morris Dancers...or chased by a Cyberman. Your photographs are excellent (as always) 12th pic in post #3 belongs in a gallery....

P.S. Do the girls get to play too?

[mossie]

What Cheery said. It is all so colourful and vibrant. Not sure about the girls, all the devils appear to be topless, and very frightening.

[bixaorellana]

Feb 17, 2018 9:02:56 GMT questa said:

Firing squad and last cigarette, probably.

Ha! Good one, Questa.

Feb 17, 2018 10:14:58 GMT cheerypeabrain said:

Do the girls get to play too?

They do, although I think fewer participate. Once the group dancing started at the end, I saw more women, but it was hard to tell for sure when they were covered by big masks and costumes.

Feb 17, 2018 12:20:53 GMT mossie said:

It is all so colourful and vibrant.

Thank you, Mossie. The devils seem to be all men, maybe because of the topless aspect, or maybe because it just seems such a guy thing.  

Leaving the fascinating workshop complex, we head off on this shady path ~



But quickly have to step aside for these local residents ~



We come across a couple of seriously equipped photographers endlessly posing these poor guys in the hot sun ~



Back at the center court, the devils are whooping it up ~











Yikes! Kate got well and truly swiped by a devil ~



The MC is trying to whip up enthusiasm in the still skimpy crowd of onlookers ~



His only taker is this drunk, the same one who blearily greeted us when we first entered town ~

[bixaorellana]

He's getting "the eye" ~



She stands by her man ~





He assigned me a number ~



Who is he waving to?



Aww. It's this little guy. He first cranked up to cry, then became merely dubious ~



The scary creature wheedled a fist bump from the little boy, then prudently retired as his new friend turned dubious again ~



For a dead eagle warrior, he sure is friendly ~



Hey, hey-ey baby, I wanna know-ow-ow if you'll be my girl ~

[bixaorellana]

Here comes the band!



They were followed by many monsters and also by a large contingent of local security ~



And we're back at the court. The contestants are supposed to be signing up, but there's a lot of pinwheeling on the floor ~





Not all of the maskers are young people ~





Somebody drew the short straw ~



One of the prizes and a basket of throws ~



More throws. These are limas ~



"Hold still -- I've almost got it."

[kerouac2]

Considering the wild costumes and disguises, it looks like it should be a day of fun and yet some of the locals, especially that old woman, look far too serious.

[bixaorellana]

That angled late afternoon sun was fierce. It was a bitch for getting a good picture, so I wound up standing by the speakers for a while in an attempt to get some decent shots. The volume plus the dust and the squinting were headache-inducing. As for that lady looking grim -- the loudmouth drunk sat down next to her. She is nobly pretending he isn't there.

I love this guy ~







I'm pretty sure the frizzy-haired one on the left is a woman ~





Whooping it up ~

[bixaorellana]

Coming through! Excuse us -- coming through!



Already a stilt walker, but still too little to sign himself up ~



Now this is what is meant by "presence" ~



The ersatz bride & groom ~



Awww. Not even a bridesmaid ~



A certain innate nobility ~





Looks like these costumes are recycled from Muertos ~





Oooo! A big four-footed prize ~



And lesser four-footed prizes ~

[bixaorellana]

They swing and they sway, but this is where we packed it in for the day ~

[bixaorellana]

Grinding my teeth in frustration because I found out that Lila Downs was in attendance & I didn't see her! It's been interesting following what my fellow foreigners are saying online about this carnival, ranging from they missed seeing anything to others posting pictures of stuff I would have loved to see.

[bixaorellana]

Oaxaca’s alebrijes get international protection against plagiarism <--click

San Martin Tilcajete is one of the places named in the article, as is Arrazola. The Arrazola report has been ravaged by the photobucket and tinypic hosting sites, but there's enough left to make it worthwhile, imho ~ anyportinastorm.proboards.com/thread/2605/arrazola-cuna-de-los-alebrijes