Idling in Italy

[bixaorellana]

Hello to all. I will be off to mainland Italy at the end of this month and of course I'm very excited!

I've been mining all the Anyporter's threads on tItaly and researching as much as I can. Still, I'm sure many of you must have some hot tips to pass along, so bring it on, please!

I'll fly into & out of Rome and am allotting 5 to 7 days to each city, with the hope of day trips from some of them.
The map shows the cities and the sequence in which I'll visit them.
Rome is not counted as #1 since I will spend my time there at the end of the trip.

(for those not into maps: Arrive Rome > 1, Florence > 2, Genoa > 3, Verona > 4. Venice > 5. Bologna > 6. Naples > 7. Rome)

[lagatta]

I'd definitely suggest a day trip to Perugia (and perhaps other Umbrian towns) which is in-between Florence and Rome and a modest railway journey from either. I studies there and Fumobici also knows the area. The towns have retained much of their medieval aspect. If you want to stop in Assisi, best to do it early in the morning when it is not overflowing with pilgrims, though it is still not the high season, and the religious tourism is far less lugubrious than at some of the "healing" shrines. Perugia and Assisi were rivals in the Middle Ages, but now Assisi is a suburb of Perugia and there are plenty of local trains and buses.

[bixaorellana]

LaGatta, I very regretfully took Perugia off my original itinerary. Even as a day trip, it's pushing past the limits of the amount of time I want to spend getting to a day trip. There comes a time in itinerary making when one must accept that not everything will be seen in a given trip.

[mich64]

Well this looks fabulous!

If I understand correctly you will be in Italy for over a month? That is wonderful!

I could try to answer questions regarding Venice but have not had the opportunity to visit the other stops on your itinerary.

Really looking forward to following your adventures.

We depart on the 23rd for Paris.

[lagatta]

I don't blame you, bixa. My last (working) trip to Italy was far more local; working in Perugia, travelling between Rome and Florence; returning home via Frankfurt (one of those strange agendas).

By the way, where are you staying in Rome? (hotel, rental flat or other lodging, neighbourhood).

[bixaorellana]

Oh Mich ~ I didn't realize you all were leaving so soon! One of these days we just have to wind up in the same place at the same time. How long will you all be in Paris?
I will probably come up with some questions, but in the meantimei if you feel like it and you have time, I would like to hear about using the vaporettos.

Thanks, LaGatta. Yes, I imagine your work trips aren't always the way you would lay things out. How cool would it be if you got a last minute gig & we were both in the same Italian city?!

When I land in Rome (6:35 pm), I'll go straight to a hotel I've booked right next to the train station. I'll spend that night & the next there before heading to Florence. All my other stops will be in rental apartments. The apt. in Rome is very very very close to a rather famous landmark. Copy & paste this to see. I'm quite close to the restaurant Il Giubileo near the lower left corner. https://i.postimg.cc/yNycgNDQ/my-neighborhood-in-rome.jpg

[fumobici]

I'll most likely be in Italy again next month. Still not sure when yet. It'd be fun if we could meet up somewhere. I'll be based again in Anghiari. I'll have a car if that might help.

I was looking at rooms in that area of Rome, if I get a flight in and out of Rome I'll probably schedule a few days there. The rooms near Termini are sure convenient but I'd like to stay in another neighborhood for a change.

[bixaorellana]

Oh, that would be so cool if we could meet up. I was thinking you never go to Italy this time of year, so it would be a nice, unexpected treat.

There were tons of apt. options in Naples & I took forever deciding on a place there, so much so that I skipped over it to look for a spot in Rome. I was shocked at how many choices had already dried up for my dates in Rome.

[bjd]

This looks like a great trip, Bixa. Somehow I thought you would be going in September?

Maybe I shouldn't mention another forum, but on Thorn Tree there are a couple of people who are very knowledgeable about Italy: particularly Clementis-fur-cap on Venice, a Brit called Mike on the area around Orvieto. There have been a few recent threads there with lots of information about vaporetti and other subjects.

[lagatta]

The area around Termini used to be very dodgy, but it has considerably changed over the last decades. I could say "for the better" in terms of safety, but of course that also means gentrification and loss of cheap places to live.

Bixa, I am familiar with that area as I know or knew people who lived there - It was a bit funny because they were of Jewish descent. I have no idea if the mother is still alive - she'd be in her 80s, but the daughter is a documentary filmmaker. www.imdb.com/title/tt1548595/?ref_=nm_flmg_dr_1

Are you planning to meet Frankie? Francisco/Francesco...

[kerouac2]

Apr 14, 2019 6:49:00 GMT bjd said:

This looks like a great trip, Bixa. Somehow I thought you would be going in September?

Maybe I shouldn't mention another forum, but on Thorn Tree there are a couple of people who are very knowledgeable about Italy: particularly Clementis-fur-cap on Venice, a Brit called Mike on the area around Orvieto. There have been a few recent threads there with lots of information about vaporetti and other subjects.

Bjd, most of the "senior" members of Anyport (not naming any names!) come from the Thorn Tree and I think that most of us have warm and fuzzy memories of those times but also major regrets about what happened. Anyport would not exist without the Thorn Tree. And of course certain members (not naming any names!) are still there regularly, even if it is mostly to regret the lack of activity compared to when it was the premier travel site.

I will always be happy if anybody can revive traffic on the Thorn Tree instead of the despicable Trip Advisor, current king of travel.

[lagatta]

Another good site for Italy, and especially for homestays, is Slow Travel. In theory I belong to it, though I haven't visited it in a long time. In theory I also belong to Thorn Tree.

[kerouac2]

Slow Travel pretty much banned me years ago because they thought I was too harsh. Every post I made became subject to prior moderation, so I just walked away.

[lagatta]

Yes, it was very cliquish. I'd use it read only. One problem is that many of the participants own various types of short-term rentals, mostly pricy ones.

[mich64]

Apr 14, 2019 3:02:37 GMT bixaorellana said:

I would like to hear about using the vaporettos.

I can tell you I was very apprehensive about them while planning our holiday, only due to my balance issues, but was pleasantly surprised! Actually was an easy and pretty sturdy way to get around. My husband and friends just made sure I either had them to hold on to or a rail or post. You will have no issues I am sure. Everyone seemed to watch out for each other. We had a few beautiful journeys back to the stop nearest our hotel in the evening and the ride out to the island of Murano was a spectacular experience. Murano was probably my favorite place and I think the journey to and from was part of the reason.

Do you have accommodations there yet? Once you do I suggest using google earth and go over the route again and again, even recording the stores or restaurants on the corners of the alleys you need to get there. Doing the research made it so much easier for me.

[bixaorellana]

Oh, thank you Mich! I don't have balance issues, but am fairly clumsy so you have reassured me. I do want to see Murano and Burano & whatever else I can get to in the time there.

Yes, all my accommodations are set up for the whole trip now. And you are so right about google earth! I will be thrilled if I can find the place the first time. I love that feature of clicking on the little icons of restaurants, stores, etc. on the map and getting to see reviews and pictures of those places, too.

[lagatta]

The vaporettos are marine buses; they have to be accessible to people of all ages and at least most disabilities. I was far more thrilled by them than the overpriced, touristy gondole.

[mich64]

Apr 14, 2019 21:58:27 GMT lagatta said:

I was far more thrilled by them than the overpriced, touristy gondole.

I totally agree Lagatta. I like the term "marine bus", quite appropriate. Like city buses, they are very busy during peak times so we put some thought into our scheduling.

[lagatta]

The are city buses! Just water-bound ones. There are a few such buses in Amsterdam, but nothing like in Venice, as of course Amsterdam has many tramlines, bicycles (including cargo bicycles) and some limited motor vehicle traffic. In Venice practically nothing but pedestrian (and adaptations for disabled people) traffic is allowed, not even bicycles except perhaps for small children. As we've seen it is far too crowded now. It could be complicated to visit there for people who have trouble walking.

Bixa, have you checked out any of the restaurants near the Holy See rental? Supermarkets? Markets etc?

[kerouac2]

Paris is considering a vaporetto type service to replace those crummy (and overpriced) batobus services. They would also extend quite a bit into the suburbs.

Meanwhile, I still need to find the best meet-up city to drop in on Bixa. Any ideas?

[bixaorellana]

Apr 15, 2019 11:40:20 GMT lagatta said:

Bixa, have you checked out any of the restaurants near the Holy See rental? Supermarkets? Markets etc?

Oh yes, LaGatta, although so far nothing has called out to me. The restaurant near me with the highest reviews is an all-raw place. Do I really want to go all the way to Rome for that? There is not much right on my block, although nearby there is a whole commercial area with three supermarkets, restaurants, etc.
I realize I amuse easily, but the fact that there are SO many places on the Google Rome map marked "Catholic Church" really makes me laugh.

Apr 15, 2019 13:06:35 GMT kerouac2 said:

I still need to find the best meet-up city to drop in on Bixa.

If you play your cards right, you could easily hit two cities -- part of my stay in one place & then on to another. Which cities do you know in Italy besides Rome?

[lagatta]

Yes, I forget the name of the commercial area, but it is very well known - think it is Prati, via Cola di Rienzo and others - there is all kinds of shopping, including supermarkets.

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Prati

Yecch, all raw. I wouldn't even want to eat a salmon tartare when travelling. And that is a dish I like.

Yep, Catholic churches are neck-and-neck with pizzerias.

[bixaorellana]

It's not Prati. I will be staying almost due south of St. Peter's Basilica & the closest shopping area is west & a little south of where I'll be.

This market shouldn't be that much of a hike from my apartment. I think it's a giant tourist draw, but I guess someone staying in the very shadow of the Vatican can't complain about that.

[lagatta]

That is a VERY expensive market. Perhaps your shopping area is Monti? I haven't done more than a couple days' stay in Rome for quite a while.

Obviously you should visit that market as it is very pretty, but I'm sure you'll also find more practical shopping nearby.

[fumobici]

Il Campo de' Fiori is a pretty long haul from St. Peters with a big bag of groceries. One I'd love to do every day. Once you cross the Tiber on Ponte Principe there are at least four obvious different ways to walk to the Campo, one as lovely as the next. It's touristy and not the cheapest but get there early and there is much there to inspire an evening cooking dinner. There are, besides the touristy crap, some pretty serious food vendors there and some nice bars in the surrounding area to recover from shopping in. Even in that neighborhood a good panino and a spremuta or glass of honest house wine shouldn't be a lot of money.

I was forced to delay my trip until June 7th, and I'll be flying into Florence rather than Rome as it is just much easier. See Verona for me, I was planning to go there a couple of years back but couldn't find a hotel room under 200 EU in the centro on short notice so I just changed my plans. And Naples too! I've got to go see it but in the meantime a photo report would help

[bixaorellana]

I'm shattered over your change of plans, Fumobici, as it would have been really great if we could have met. Of course I will definitely subject everyone here to oodles of pictures of everything I see.
Aside: Next trip, do look into airbnb rather than hotels, even for a short stay. You'll pay so much less for so much more.
Also, even though you don't get the exact address of your chosen temporary abode until after you've booked, details such as this are provided to help you make up your mind:
Nearby landmarks -- Pantheon 1.0 mi / Via Cola di Rienzo 1.1 mi / Basilica di San Giovanni in Laterano 1.1 mi / Villa Doria Pamphili 1.3 mi / Basilica of Our Lady in Trastevere 1.3 mi


Re: big bag/expensive groceries ~ My stay in Rome on the last leg of the trip will only be for six nights, so I doubt I'll be spending time whipping up any big meals.