A church, some chow, & plumed chamacos ~ Santa Ana Zegache

[bixaorellana]

This past Sunday Charlie & I headed south out of town to what was billed as a culinary event in the small town of Santa Ana Zegache, a trip of about an hour through the beautiful countryside.

Upon arrival we were directed to the church, since the event was taking place on its grounds. We ascended some steps, as the church grounds are above street level, then stopped in our tracks ~







Due to the usual lack of prior research, this glorious sight was a complete surprise. It's one of the churches renovated under the patronage of Rudolfo Morales.
More information on that at the end of this thread. For now let's take our first look inside the church ~



I am completely knocked out by the sheer number of colonial-era furnishings in such great condition ~





There is no lily-gilding like Mexican church lily-gilding!



I'm eager to see more in here, but for now we can hear music so head outside.

[bixaorellana]

At the side of the church ~



Walking past the band ~



And now under the big top ~



Early warning signs of Danza de la Pluma ~



The food and beverage stands went all the way around the edges of the tent ~



Whole lotta cooking going on ~

[fumobici]

That church facade is fantastic! I want to know everything about the food, I am beguiled.

[bjd]

I agree about the church facade -- the beige sides emphasize the centre colours but it doesn't look overwhelming.

[lugg]

Thank you Bixa, wonderful start. I think if someone asked me to describe Mexico with the first thoughts that pop into my head it would likely be 1. colourful 2. food or 3 celebrations. Think this report will embed those first thoughts further.

[bixaorellana]

Thanks, all!
Fumobici, it has to be said that I didn't like anything I ate -- really, it was not good at all. Charlie said she liked the stuff she had, so all was not lost. At any rate, the day felt like a Mexican interpretation of an English church fête, so we were quite happy, as indeed was everyone there.

Here's the story on this stuff: www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2018/03/21/595368434/in-oaxaca-mexico-a-locally-made-soda-takes-aim-at-coca-colas-supremacy
Charlie got a very small glass mostly full of ice cubes with an inadequate amount of cola syrup and flat water. I tasted it. Flat, weak RC cola.



There were some fun things on sale ~



The air was positively shimmering with heat ~



Looks as though there is fun in store for the night ~



These pictures were taken as Charlie & I were walking around town with a view to going to the cemetery ~

There was more than one graffito expressing someones poor opinion of Natha Hernández ~



A classic image of a small Mexican town with the road to the cemetery to the right.
That's all you'll see of it, as it was at this point we wisely abandoned that endeavor so as not to court heatstroke ~

[bixaorellana]

I had abandoned my picture-taking of the church earlier, but wander back over there again ~



It appears the danzantes are using the church as a staging area ~









These two girls represent the two aspects of a single historical person: Doña Marina / Malinche ~

   

I follow the kids to the doorway ~



There the noble pre-columbian dancers cluster in that unmistakable posture of people looking at a cell phone ~



Some of the boys are so young that I have no doubt these are their toys ~

[mich64]

I enjoyed this, all the colors makes me feel happy!

[kerouac2]

It looks like a very fun day, even if the food was not great. I also like the fact that it does not appear to have been crowded. As much fun as events are in downtown Oaxaca, the crowds make it a bit more challenging.

[bixaorellana]

Thank you, Mich ~ it was a happy and colorful day.

Back inside [the church to record the elaborate, very old ornamentation ~











By the time you walk past the extravaganza on the side walls, the main altar is almost a letdown ~





I wonder when the very anachronistic Saint Thérèse of Lisieux sneaked into this setting. She's undoubtedly a more cheery sight than whatever was there before ~

[bixaorellana]

Sorry, Kerouac -- didn't see your comment while I was posting. Yes, it was just the right amount of people to feel jolly and successful. But do remember that you visited Oaxaca at a time when it is guaranteed to be overrun by people.

Time to wind this up. Let's go back to the big tent ~



Charlie & I grabbed ourselves large beverages and sat back to cool off and finally see the dancers perform ~







Time to find some transportation back home. 'Bye Santa Ana and thanks for a great day ~

In the OP I said I'd add some information about the painted churches of the Oaxaca valleys. Here is some historical background information: www.oaxacanotes.com/Colonial_Architecture_—_Oaxaca_City,_Oaxaca

This tells about the Santa Ana Zegache church: tomzap.com/zegache.html

A glimpse of another painted church in San Antonino (Reply #1): anyportinastorm.proboards.com/thread/4267/san-antonino-bust-fun-sort

And the Wedgewood splendor of Ocotlán's church: anyportinastorm.proboards.com/thread/4281?page=1#85839

The pictures of the interiors of San Antonino's and Ocotlán's churches, while impressive in their ways, will reveal why I was so knocked out by the sheer amount of colonial baroque splendor still extant in Santa Ana's church.

[kerouac2]

One thing that is a bit surprising in churches in Mexico, Italy and quite a few other places is that after all of the craftsmanship put into the statues and other decorations over the centuries, it seems to have been totally accepted to throw in some plastic or plaster dolls in the 20th century, clearly to give the local seamstresses a chance to make some fancy costumes for them.

[bjd]

Except for the restored and painted facade, I see that the sides of the church are of brick and stone. They almost look as though they could be in Toulouse!

I guess the locals are used to the heat but it must be hard to dance with those costumes on when it is hot.

I know the story of Malinche -- she is the subject of one of the first novels I read in Spanish.

[bixaorellana]

Aug 29, 2019 4:13:09 GMT kerouac2 said:

it seems to have been totally accepted to throw in some plastic or plaster dolls in the 20th century

Piety does not automatically guarantee good taste!
I imagine that over the years various church ladies said, "Oh, I want to make something pretty for the church", and no one had the heart to turn them down. In the grand scheme of things, that does seem appropriate.

Aug 29, 2019 5:23:38 GMT bjd said:

I see that the sides of the church are of brick and stone. They almost look as though they could be in Toulouse!

What a good eye you have, Bjd! I went back to look after reading your comment, and indeed see what you mean.

Aug 29, 2019 5:23:38 GMT bjd said:

I know the story of Malinche -- she is the subject of one of the first novels I read in Spanish.

I read a novelized biography of her in the fairly recent past & wish I could remember the title, as it was pretty good. In attempting to look it up, I came across this tv series, which I'd very much like to see. (If I find it, I'll pass it along) The actress playing Malinche is from Guatemala: remezcla.com/film/news-new-mexican-series-malinche/

[bjd]

The novel I read was Malinche by Laura Esquivel.

[rikita]

malinche was also the topic of some of my university classes, though i don't remember anymore what books we might have read ...

[bixaorellana]

Well, I have been racking my brain trying to remember the book I read. I had it in my mind that it was a library book & was vainly trying to envision it. Finally it came to me, and it's a book I own and highly recommend, as it wonderfully covers the time of the conquest up to 1525 and all the principals are believably brought to life.

It is Night of Sorrows, by Frances Sherwood: www.fantasticfiction.com/s/frances-sherwood/night-of-sorrows.htm

[lugg]

Just caught up - invigorating viewing seeing all the colour and the photos that just absolutely illustrate/ capture the movement in the dancing. Thanks for the wonderful thread but also for the link to the book.