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Post by bixaorellana on Sept 18, 2019 22:38:51 GMT
Rather than start off with quotes and links about a city whose beauty is reason enough for it to exist, I'll plunge right in with pictures and the source of the title quote. I arrived on a rainy afternoon in May of this year. Disembarking from the crowded vaporetto which transported me from the railroad station to the Rialto Bridge, I attempted to capture the crush of tourists on the bridge ~ I wended my way through the bewildering squares and tiny streets of Venice. At one point I backtracked thinking the directive to turn left couldn't possibly be correct. It was, though -- it turned out that I had to ascend the steps of a church, then descend them from the side in order to reach the street I needed. The square of Santa Maria Formosa in the Castello district was my objective. Here I huddled from the rain under the green awning to await my contact ~ Having fallen instantly under Venice's spell, I dumped my luggage in my apartment near the square & set out into the drizzle to see what I could see. The echoes of the long-ago alliance with Byzantium were everywhere in evidence. Oh, what the heck -- here's a lengthy history link. In Venice, it's almost impossible not to want to take a picture at the sight of any canal ~ The city seems not so much to be crumbling, but rather melting ~
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Post by bixaorellana on Sept 19, 2019 0:29:30 GMT
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Post by bixaorellana on Sept 19, 2019 3:34:48 GMT
Even though my objective was St. Mark's, I came upon it unawares, since the phone directions treat Venice's narrow alleys and arcades as regular streets. Thus it was that I popped out of a narrow space darkened by ancient looming buildings on either side to be astounded by a vision of impossible beauty ~ This is what I first beheld of this proud basilica which seems to float in Venice's watery air. And this is only the side ~ Around the front and into the square ~ Much more to be explored over there to right and to the left on another day, but for now more pictures of the square. You'll see some of these pictures again in a separate thread on St. Mark's basilica and square -- I have to do something with the 83 I took. I make no apologies for the excess. Of all the exquisite, timeless sights I saw in Italy, the thing that completely took my breath away was St. Mark's. Looking across to San Giorgio Maggiore on its own island ~
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Post by lagatta on Sept 19, 2019 11:01:19 GMT
Lovely, and you were fortunate to get there when there wasn't a huge crowd.
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Post by kerouac2 on Sept 19, 2019 12:35:31 GMT
Magnificent scenery. I always worry about the future of building sitting in water, though. Considering how many ancient buildings I have seen sitting in water just about everywhere in the world, I know I am being irrational.
I still have not been to Venice although I have been promising myself that I will get there sooner or later for the last 30 years or so. One thing that I decided long ago was then when I go it will be in the winter. Bixa didn't have this problem since there was plenty of rain when she was there, but I have been told by dozens of people that the canals stink in the summer heat -- and there are also the crowds. I hope that it is not flooding whenever I finally go, but I'm sure that the acqua alta has a certain charm, too, as long as it is moderate.
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Post by fumobici on Sept 19, 2019 15:04:52 GMT
So far, so good. I look forward to much more of this.
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Post by lugg on Sept 19, 2019 18:33:07 GMT
Beautiful images Bixa ; I too am looking forward to seeing more.
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Post by bixaorellana on Sept 19, 2019 21:49:53 GMT
Thanks for the supportive words, you all! Kerouac, the stinky canal question comes up all the time on Italian travel discussion groups. Apparently it is something that has happened in the past, but rarely. As it happened, I arrived just a couple of days after some flooding, so it's all a roll of the dice. As far as summer heat -- I got there on May 19 and left on the 24th and there wasn't a single hot day. Really, there were no uncomfortably hot days anywhere until I got to Rome (June 5 to 11). Addressing both LaGatta & Kerouac re: crowds -- Yes, tourists and lots of them. Even so, I would go back at the same time of year again because I just adored Venice. It's extremely commercial and the background sound is that of spinner suitcases on pavement, but none of it takes away one whit from the magic that is Venice. Really, I consider all my photographs to be failures because none truly captures the enchantment of all that magnificent architecture impossibly suspended in that light which exists nowhere else. It appears that Venice loved me back, as it graciously named a street after me ~ And speaking of streets, I'll now lead you to my apartment there, which was just off Campo Maria Formosa, shown in the 2nd through 6th pictures in the OP. I happily resided in Castello, the largest of Venice’s six sestiere/neighborhoods ~ The space surrounding the church is very large, with stores, cafes, and all kinds of temporary things ~ The present church dates from 1492 and is built on the site of one from the 7th century ~ To get to my apartment, we go through that little street straight ahead, to the left of Hotel Scandinavia. Incidentally, should any Anyport members be going to Venice & wishing for information on the lovely place I stayed, just let me know. The stores were shuttered when I took this picture at night, but in the day sparkle with acres of Murano glass and other treasures. Turn left ~ It's narrow here! Yes, I was mildly alarmed when I saw the place on Google Street View, but it was perfect & I loved it ~ A little ways down from my place was the tourist-draw Libreria Acqua Alta with its patio sporting booksteps so you can look over the wall into a canal ~
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Post by lagatta on Sept 19, 2019 23:28:25 GMT
Splendid. Looking forward to more.
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Post by bixaorellana on Sept 20, 2019 1:04:07 GMT
Ah, so kind, Huckle! I think everyone who has been to Venice identifies with my frustration on the pictures. I sort of felt like those Victorians trying to capture fairies on film in the garden. A shame about the theft, but it seems it did not sour you on the city, nor did the nosebleed charge for an espresso. If that was in pre-crowd days, what could they be charging now?! I thought 10€ for a (big) beer in a tourist trap cafe in Rome was bad, and that was this year. I am jealous of your being able to enjoy it without the throngs. Be prepared to have me badger you for travel insights to those other places one of these days, as I am tempted to follow in your footsteps. Thank you, LaGatta. There will be more and more!
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Post by fumobici on Sept 20, 2019 2:25:29 GMT
I still remember sitting exhausted at a cafe in St. Marks and watching the waiter write the charge of 13.50 E for my no frills espresso on the paper table cloth. I laughed and so did he, but I paid. The crowds of now were not present. The most I've ever paid for a coffee in Italy is two and a half euro so I guess that tells you the kind of places I frequent there! I am usually a little annoyed if it's over one. I think if you go before May and the cruise season opening, you'll see it significantly more quiet. After the daytrippers leave in the early evening is even better, it can actually be pretty serene if not ever serenissima.
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Post by bixaorellana on Sept 20, 2019 5:42:32 GMT
Another way to get serenity is to wander around in the rain. I like rain, although my camera doesn't, and if ever a city might look even better on a rainy day, that city would be Venice. Here are a few shots as I scampered from pillar to post between showers. There will be more of this sort of thing as the thread ambles on. This is the facade of the deconsecrated church, Santa Maria dei Derelitti which makes me think of audition shots for the cowardly lion ~ Peeping around at part of the Basilica di Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari ~ Admiring the Scuola Grande di San Marco, with Santi Giovanni e Paolo church on its right ~ And now pressed against it, sheltering from the rain ~ I must say, there is a fine view from this aspect ~ Inside, a velvet rope hinders the visitor from proceeding much past the doorway. There are sights one might expect ... .... and sights one would not. I would have loved to have seen this from the front, as I imagine it's some sort of trompe-l'œil effect ~
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Post by bjd on Sept 20, 2019 9:23:16 GMT
Great pics, Bixa. It's probably impossible to take lousy pictures in Venice, at least from the subject's point of view. Everything seems picturesque. I think the rain doesn't pose problems since it's a city built on water and the umbrellas add colour.
I last went to Venice in 1984, in November. It was foggy but that just created an interesting atmosphere. As far as smelly canals go, I think it has been cleaned up a lot since my first visit in 1970 when gray plastic bags of garbage floated on the canals. Don't remember much smell though and it was July.
Looking forward to more.
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Post by bixaorellana on Sept 20, 2019 17:32:44 GMT
Thanks, Bjd and good point about how atmospheric Venice is. You were just a teen student back in 1970, weren't you? Even though the city has been a tourist destination for centuries, I imagine that aspect was much less intense than it is now. Even fourteen years later, it must have been pleasantly uncrowded compared to now.
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Post by lugg on Sept 20, 2019 18:31:22 GMT
Just stunning Bixa , reading this ...it makes me realise just how much I missed ; maybe because when I visited I stayed on the Lido Venezia and maybe my memory is failing me because it was years ago certainly before digital photography. One thing I do remember was the behind the scenes tour of the Doges palace which was my stand out experience.
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Post by bixaorellana on Sept 21, 2019 5:19:19 GMT
Thank you, Lugg! Funnily enough, going through my pictures and looking stuff up is making me realize how much I missed, too. For me, Venice was such a longed for experience which delivered so dazzlingly, that I need more than one visit to take it in better or just to enjoy it again. Your Doges palace tour sounds like such an exceptional experience -- wow!
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Post by mickthecactus on Sept 21, 2019 9:01:08 GMT
I was 16 when I went to Venice with school. It was the first time I had pizza which I thought the most wonderful food ever.
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Post by bixaorellana on Sept 21, 2019 13:56:53 GMT
Thank you so much, Huckle! And thank you for those recommendations. I'm glad to be reminded of Bread & Tulips, which has been on a semi-forgotten list of must-sees for a while. Bruno Ganz is a plus! And I owe it to Vittorio Gassman to finally see him in something other than the risible Bitter Rice. Catherine Deneuve is a plus! I am in awe of your encyclopedic knowledge of good cinema. What a fabulous school trip, Mick! I think I might have been even a couple of years older than 16 the first time I had pizza. It wasn't always a universal food!
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Post by cheerypeabrain on Sept 21, 2019 18:13:52 GMT
How you manage to get such atmospheric shots of alleyways, nooks and crannies amazes me. I havent been to Venice but it does look amazing...my favourite image has to be the cat but the architecture is stunning...love the warmth of the brick and the squashed up mush mash of styles of architecture, windows and doors especially. Canals? There are canals ?
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Post by kerouac2 on Sept 21, 2019 19:44:42 GMT
Everything looks perfect, obviously. Strangely enough, I am wondering if I would get tired of the water everywhere. I actually get tired of the canals in Amsterdam.
One of the best things about Bread and Tulips is that it takes place away from the touristy areas. I have absolutely nothing against the touristy areas and will rush there when I finally go, but it was a relief to see more of a "real" city in that movie.
And that makes me wonder if the canals now stink less because the population of Venice has declined so radically due to tourism. Not saying that Venetians were responsible for the stink, but just the fact that so many fewer people live there makes it obvious that there would be less pollution.
The population was 154,000 in the 1930's and it is now down to 60,000 (+ 20 million tourists).
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Post by bixaorellana on Sept 22, 2019 0:25:08 GMT
Awww ~ thank you, Cheery! Some atmospheric shots are the result of getting lost and others of "wonder what's down this way". When I first got to Florence I was thrilled because everything looked straight out of Renaissance paintings. In Venice, somehow that thrill did not abate in the least. You would love it. And when you just aren't feeling culture-vultureish, there's always tons of fun shopping to do. I suppose it's impossible to objectively address whether or not you would tire of the canals in Venice, Kerouac, but I will say the feeling of the Venetian canals is light years apart from the ones in Amsterdam. Even though everything about the engineering of Amsterdam so that people might live there is astounding, it manages to impress because of the weight of practicality and yes, history. Venice just feels much older and as though it sprang there from an enchantment. You feel you might see a figure from the past rounding the next corner. The reason the word magical is used ad nauseam to describe it is because it's so apt. Your logic re: less stink appears faulty. All those extra tourists have to be making an impact on the drainage system.
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Post by lagatta on Sept 22, 2019 1:31:59 GMT
Yes,20 million tourists would make a far greater imprint, especially as compared with the somehwhat larger number of pre-war inhabitants, at a time when people consumed and polluted far less. I discovered Venice with a friend of a friend, who had to leave it in haste at 17 as he was in a resistance network and there was a death warrant out for him. I can't even imagine how he made it to Switzerland. Remember, all of Italy was fascist, and what was friendly neighbour Austria had been incorporated into Nazi Germany and no longer existed as a separate country. After the war he had a successful career as a lawyer and did much to defend both injured and poisoned workers and local people affected by the pollution of the laguna.
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Post by bixaorellana on Sept 22, 2019 2:48:08 GMT
Dramatic story! What an impressive man.
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Post by bixaorellana on Sept 22, 2019 3:00:50 GMT
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Post by bixaorellana on Sept 22, 2019 17:53:47 GMT
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Post by kerouac2 on Sept 22, 2019 18:13:30 GMT
I wondered what you would see of the Biennale since I knew it was on when you were there.
As for stinky canals, I was thinking more along the lines of older Venetians having the habit of tossing buckets of garbage into the canal from their windows. Tourists would not behave the same, I hope.
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Post by lugg on Sept 22, 2019 18:43:53 GMT
This is a real treat Bixa - a veritable feast for the eyes. I am really enjoying seeing so many different aspects of Venice, every part you post is such a surprise and delight .
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Post by lagatta on Sept 23, 2019 1:29:56 GMT
Those grey tabbies are called Soriani, supposedly of Syrian origin and common in Venice. I do trust that the ginger cat was wearing a harness, not a collar that would have hanged him. I am so glad to have balconies!
As for my friend, he was very impressive and impeccably dressed as one would imagine a Venetian barrister. But he fought a losing battle against the pigeons, who destroyed one of his beautiful white shirts as he was showing me around Venice! Had a great sense of humour. Hard to imagine him as a terrified 17-year-old with a death warrant who had to cross fascist territory to unsure and precarious haven in Switzerland.
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Post by lagatta on Sept 23, 2019 1:37:06 GMT
The impressive height of the housing in the ghetto was due to the impossibility of expanding its territory. I hope that there are lifts nowadays. People of all ages and health conditions had to somehow climb or be carried to the top levels. And waste - human waste, and waste from cooking - had to be evacuated somehow.
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Post by bixaorellana on Sept 23, 2019 5:15:30 GMT
I wondered what you would see of the Biennale since I knew it was on when you were there. You can see parts of it all over town, but I was more into soaking up Venice than I was in chasing down the Biennale. That said, I enjoyed every bit of it I did see. I am really enjoying seeing so many different aspects of Venice Thank you so much, Lugg. Seeing lots of pictures like this makes it seem that I really covered the city, but truly, there is so much more to see. I am dying to go back! Those grey tabbies are called Soriani, supposedly of Syrian origin and common in Venice. That's a wonderful factoid! There is a large Mexican supermarket chain named Soriana, but presumably named that because the founders were from Soria, Spain. The impressive height of the housing in the ghetto was due to the impossibility of expanding its territory. Thanks for that information. I had read it, then forgot to include it in with the ghetto section.
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