Pau

[bjd]

When I left Toulouse, some friends got together and gave me a gift voucher for a nursery. Unfortunately, the closest one for that nursery chain to where I live now is in Pau, about 120 km away. So we went yesterday. Although the weather wasn't very nice, it was the only day this week that no rain is forecast. The problem is that the nicest views from Pau are of the Pyrenees mountains, which are very close by. There is even a promenade from which to have a view but all we could see were clouds.

It was also a Monday (lots of closed shops) and not very warm, so the pictures are of middling interest but I thought I would post them since I haven't posted anything for a long time. We stayed only in the centre of the old part of the city to take the photos. The shopping centre and mall were on the outskirts and of no interest whatsoever since the exact same kind of place can be seen at the entrance to any French city.

Pau is especially known as the birthplace of King Henry IV, who converted from Protestantism to be king of France. He was supposed to have said, "Paris is worth a mass." It is the departmental capital and quite pleasant, very green and, allegedly, with a great view of the Pyrenees.

There is a funicular from the main area of the old city and the train station, which is along the river.

[bjd]

The castle where Henry was born in 1553.




As well as the houses just across the street.

[bjd]

Place Clémenceau with pink umbrellas overhead because October is the month for activities for breast cancer prevention and the symbols are pink.

And some general shots of streets in the centre, most of which are pedestrianized. I'm sure it can be lively in warm weather.

[bjd]

[bjd]

And a few shops and windows

[bixaorellana]

Well! Your friends not only did something nice for you, it turned out to be something nice for anyport as well.

How big is the modern city of Pau? From the giant church and the history, it was obviously a big deal back in its heyday. The views are lovely even with the mountains being hidden. I see one guy strolling around in shorts, but other people are dressed fairly warmly. Is it already cold there because of the high altitude?

As you said, it's probably livelier and more interesting on a warmer day when the businesses are open, but I get the feeling you won't be making that 120 km drive over there again very soon. But the important thing: what did you get at the nursery?

[kerouac2]

I really need to return to Pau one of these days. Last time was on a road trip with my mother. I remember that we stopped to eat at a restaurant on Place Clémenceau. There was a line of people waiting for a seat, but when they saw my mother, they seated us immediately. Naturally, I did not get a chance to explore the city at all.

I have some friends who live just outside of Pau. They have been begging me to visit them for years, so maybe it will finally happen.

I didn't even know there was a funicular in Pau since I was driving.

[bjd]

The city population is 78,000 people, with lots of small places nearby that are included in the metropolitan area. Pau is the main city of the department, with the prefecture, university, law courts, etc.

It is not high -- average about 200m above sea level. It was kind of cold because the temperature suddenly dropped this week. Even though there are people in parkas, it was 18° and pleasant when the sun appeared. You don't see much from the pictures, but there are lots of palm trees and other warm climate plants there.

Kerouac, if you take the train, the funicular is just opposite the train station, it's free and runs every 3 minutes. Even a place to put bikes! We were driving too and managed to park on the road opposite the train station. Just took the funicular down for the pleasure of it.

Bixa, at the nursery I bought a flowering cherry tree (just pink flowers in spring and no fruit), some old fashioned roses, raspberry and currant bushes, a dark purple iris, and some pegs to put in the ground to attach stakes to build a shelter for firewood. If I had known I would get a discount I would have bought some flower bulbs. I did check out the perennials but there weren't any I wanted at this time of year.

[bixaorellana]

It seems it would be a pleasant place to live for people who weren't crazy about big cities, but didn't want small town life either, especially with the nice climate.

That's a really impressive haul of plants, even without the bulbs, and all things that will be mainstays of your long-term garden. I adore the old fashioned roses and the flowering cherry will be something to look forward to every year. I imagine you've also scoped out the plant-buying possibilities closer to home, too.

[bjd]

Yes, Bixa - most of what I have planted in the gardencomes from a nursery here in town. As well as a few things I dug out of my Toulouse garden: some peonies and irises. I spent 4 hours digging today! Had to dig out an old rosebush that wasn't doing much -- I am always surprised at how deep their roots are.

Yes, I agree that Pau might be pleasant to live in.

[lugg]

I had no idea you had moved from Toulouse Bjd, whereabouts are you now ? Pau looks a lovely place to visit and maybe a place to combine with my next visit to the Aude as it is certainly not too far. Happy gardening Bjd ; its always hard leaving one behind but exciting starting work on another and I'm guessing that your voucher was very welcome despite having to travel so far to spend it.

Breast cancer awareness month seems to cut across many countries both in Europe and elsewhere which (I think) is a ray of hope / positivity and so I think the image with the pink umbrellas is just fab.

[bjd]

Lugg -- In April we moved to the Atlantic coast, 40 km north of Bayonne/Biarritz, but a bit inland so it wouldn't be dead in winter. We have been coming here for years and decided to make the move permanent. But we bought the house we are in now 3 years ago, so I'm not starting from scratch in the garden. That was 3 years ago, along with lots of work on the house. Neither are finished although the garden is probably further along.

[lagatta]

Is where you live within the (French) Basque country? I imagine that there is considerably more rain than in Toulouse, but that has the positive effect of making things greener; more over I'd think that climate change might make Toulouse terribly hot.

This is a post from another blog; I hope it is ok to post them here, obviously while crediting the authors: adamandmollygo.wordpress.com/2013/12/16/a-drive-through-southwestern-france/ as there are some splendid photos.

We have planted old-fashioned roses that are rustic even in considerably colder zones in Québec.

[bjd]

No Lagatta. The Basque country stops at the Adour River (more or less). We are in the Landes. Even though Pau is the capital of Pyrénées Atlantiques (home of Bayonne/St Jean-Pied-de-Port, etc) there is nothing Basque about it.

It still gets hot here in summer, but not as bad as in Toulouse where they had 40° several times this summer. And indeed, it's greener here. The rain clouds stop at the Adour too -- the mountains just behind the coast seem to affect the rainfall so it's consistently greener and rainier there than here.

[fumobici]

Pau looks lovely, a good size, and oh so French. Thanks.

[lugg]

Oct 23, 2019 19:04:04 GMT bjd said:

40 km north of Bayonne/Biarritz, but a bit inland so it wouldn't be dead in winter.

That sounds perfect bjd. It is an area that I have never visited so I really enjoyed seeing Pau and hope to see more of your local area if you get chance; if and when you have a respite from the renovations / garden makeover etc.

[bjd]

I'll see what I can do. Tomorrow I'm going to Bayonne where they had a street art festival last weekend. I was going to take my camera. I did a thread on this town some years ago but can't find it.

[lugg]

Here you go

anyportinastorm.proboards.com/thread/6118/bayonne