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Post by kerouac2 on Jul 7, 2020 20:50:04 GMT
My last report about Bordeaux dates from 2014, so it was high time to drop in again for a visit. Bordeaux is only 2 hours and 4 minutes from Paris now that the TGV line has been extended, which has created a huge commuter boom for business people who do not need to commute 5 days a week. Since last Sunday, Bordeaux has joined the list of major French cities with Green mayors, so that will be an additional draw, although it will take a bit of time to see what sort of changes takes place. Leaving the station, I saw that the rather run down hotel where I had stayed last time is now the Ibis (red), right next to the Ibis Budget (blue) that was already there. But I had booked at the Ibis Styles (green) which is a whole extra block away but still fully visible as you leave the station. Anyway, all of that is of no importance since there are at least 20 other hotels right there. I checked in a bit before noon with no problem, since I assume the hotel is far from full. I did not see any other customers at the time, but I have seen a number of them since then, so I guess they're doing all right. Better than being closed. Plexiglas and gel everywhere, but breakfast tomorrow will be the real test. I am under the impression that the breakfast buffet is already back while such things were forbidden in the early days of deconfinement. I'll find out tomorrow morning since breakfast is included in the rate. I dumped my stuff in the room and started to walk towards the centre, even though the tram runs right in front of the hotel. I needed to walk. Within half a block, I saw that there was a crummy little orthodox church. I wonder if the congregation is 90 years old or if there are young orthodox immigrants in the city. Following the rails along the Garonne, I got a major case of olfactory recall from all of the pink mimosas lining the boulevard. It didn't take me long to make a little side trip "inland" towards this spire. The spire was a vestige that stood alone, but it was in front of some old church. So many old churches in France! I stepped in the church for just a moment. They could have blocked off 95% of the seats and there still would be enough room for the faithful.
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Post by kerouac2 on Jul 7, 2020 21:14:16 GMT
There was a minor flea market in progress on the square next to the church. I make a point of not looking at anything to avoid temptation. Bordeaux is practically back to normal. It was almost covid-free during the bad times. The buildings of southern France always interest me -- so different from the north. time to start walking back to the river Bordeaux really has a lot of arches everywhere, more than Paris. And then I was at the fanciest bridge in the city, the Pont de Pierre, 1810-1822 with 17 arches. Nobody pays attention to these indications along the Garonne. Total chaos by the pedestrians, the joggers, the bicycles, the scooters… looking back at the Pont de Pierre green city?
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Post by mich64 on Jul 8, 2020 0:06:26 GMT
Enjoying your report! I am interested to know what differences you encounter with the breakfast buffet offerings. It amazes me how some areas are not affected by COVID19 while others have been heavily affected. It looks like a lovely city to walk around.
I did not know there were 3 levels of IBIS hotels, is that relatively new?
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Post by fumobici on Jul 8, 2020 1:21:10 GMT
For a boring bourgeois city, it's still looking good. I'm surprised Greenpeace would risk docking in France after Mitterrand's state-sponsored terror bombing of the Rainbow Warrior!
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Post by lagatta on Jul 8, 2020 1:29:04 GMT
Both you and I must remember that the event was a long time ago. Yes, that was a very black mark on Mitterand's presidency. Bordeaux is also beginning to acknowledge the role it played in the slave trade, like Liverpool and other cities.
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Post by bixaorellana on Jul 8, 2020 2:36:46 GMT
Very pretty so far. Is that medieval looking building in the middle of the picture just above Greenpeace an old gate to the city?
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Post by kerouac2 on Jul 8, 2020 4:01:57 GMT
I imagine that a number of those arches along the Garonne were gates to separate the city from the port, which was probably the area to which nice people do not go.
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Post by kerouac2 on Jul 8, 2020 4:10:40 GMT
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Post by kerouac2 on Jul 8, 2020 4:47:10 GMT
I actually had a specific destination on this walk, just beyond the Chaban-Delmas bridge. i.postimg.cc/Gm9PWsjw/P1030868.jpgi.postimg.cc/XN8wXgH6/P1030871.jpgi.postimg.cc/761S31q7/P1030870.jpgYouth everywhere need places like this to test the solidity of their bones. i.postimg.cc/Bny54Qh8/P1030872.jpgBrand new during my previous visit, all of the old hangars converted to shops and restaurants are now in full swing. i.postimg.cc/QCX10BMz/P1030873.jpgi.postimg.cc/J0PJg1Dz/P1030874.jpgi.postimg.cc/1t1pV71s/P1030875.jpgi.postimg.cc/yNZmd45L/P1030876.jpgI reached my destination - the Cité du Vin, Bordeaux's newest museum. i.postimg.cc/XJWCYZ9v/P1030877.jpgI confess I was more interested in the architecture than the subject of wine. i.postimg.cc/xT1LmbhJ/P1030879.jpgEverybody is given an interactive control to activate all of the displays. i.postimg.cc/qMDyxvHm/P1030880.jpgi.postimg.cc/mgcMXWbT/P1030881.jpgi.postimg.cc/Vk3t2Z6n/P1030882.jpgi.postimg.cc/W4gZVmFK/P1030883.jpgThis display did interest me, allowing one to appreciate all of 'notes' in fine wines -- fruits, herbs, spices… i.postimg.cc/gjkL3fSF/P1030885.jpgIt was a bit awkward with the obligatory masks, but it was possible to pull them down for a moment. i.postimg.cc/LXVZYHV3/P1030886.jpgi.postimg.cc/pTkpVs20/P1030887.jpgThis display of table rules was absolutely fascinating. They are considered to be a total art, which I find ridiculous. i.postimg.cc/7YhThrJS/P1030889.jpgAll of the items on the tables weren't really there but were projections that kept changing according to the era. i.postimg.cc/SNPYz1c3/P1030890.jpgThe pages on the fake books would turn, too. i.postimg.cc/g0VxQY1b/P1030891.jpgI accept all of these rules for a state dinner but absolutely not for receiving friends or family. i.postimg.cc/xdDk6kxP/P1030892.jpgI completely ignored some of the displays, but I can think of some people who would have loved everything. i.postimg.cc/G2b41W18/P1030893.jpg
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Post by bixaorellana on Jul 8, 2020 15:08:44 GMT
What an interesting city! It still looks very industrialized even with all the hangar conversions. I like the way you show your walk to the museum, with the mix of utilitarian, trendy newness, and the fancy older buildings.
Those museum buildings are huge! What is that long row of bottles with objects inside them -- the first one has a little plant?
Incidentally, that photograph of the statue seen through the struts of the ferris wheel is magnificent!
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Post by kerouac2 on Jul 8, 2020 18:03:36 GMT
The audioguide in that section explained the invention of wine bottles after using clay jugs and amphorae for centuries, but I didn't feel like listening to it.
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Post by lagatta on Jul 9, 2020 0:04:09 GMT
Actually, I'm very intereted in wines, but not the attendant snobbery. I loved the narrative of the slave woman, who seemed to endure and overcome most horrific circumstances.
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Post by kerouac2 on Jul 9, 2020 4:48:23 GMT
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Post by kerouac2 on Jul 9, 2020 4:53:38 GMT
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Post by bjd on Jul 9, 2020 8:59:49 GMT
Nice to see that you returned to Bordeaux. The spire separated from its church is St Michel and the flea market is on every day. It's a bit like Aligre in Paris: some secondhand stuff, some new discounted things. Last time I was there a guy was selling mid-century modern furniture at high prices.
I find the walk + bike path along the Garonne really pleasant, especially in nice weather when it's a pleasure to look at the river.
And the "pink mimosas" are albizzias.
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Post by kerouac2 on Jul 9, 2020 10:34:01 GMT
And the "pink mimosas" are albizzias. I never remember the real name, but in the Deep South everybody called them mimosa. However, I had a mother who would always say "that's not real mimosa! Real mimosa is yellow." Of course nobody listened to her on that point.
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Post by bjd on Jul 9, 2020 10:45:29 GMT
It looks like we are all correct: albizzias are part of the mimosa family. Their leaves are similar too.
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Post by kerouac2 on Jul 9, 2020 10:48:25 GMT
At this time of year, the sun doesn't set until almost 22:00, but I was determined to stay out at least once at the end of the day. But frankly, I am pooped by then in terms of tourism. It was evening picnic time along the Garonne. I forgot to post these two pictures earlier, so I will put them here rather than backtracking and sneaking them back in the correct spot. Anyway, the Pont de Pierre completely changes colour in the final rays of the sun. I don't know where they shoot the 14th of July fireworks in Bordeaux, but I would be very surprised if they did not do it over the Garonne. And that ended my first day of activity in Bordeaux. This is the anonymous Bourse tram stop. The area is too beautiful to put shelters, ticket machines, rubbish bins or more than 2 benches.
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Post by htmb on Jul 9, 2020 15:14:05 GMT
This thread is a real treat, Kerouac! So insanely jealous glad you are able to get out and travel a bit. Do the trains and train stations seem less crowded at all?
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Post by lagatta on Jul 9, 2020 15:27:59 GMT
Bordeaux must be north of Montréal then. Obviously Paris is, but I didn't think Bordeaux was.
They seem to be at pretty much the same latitude...
It is a beautiful city, but I get the idea that it would be rather staid. I am impressed by the very high quality public transport.
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Post by kerouac2 on Jul 9, 2020 15:30:46 GMT
Travel seems back to normal except for the obligation wear a mask in the stations and on the trains. The SNCF has gone back to selling 100% of the seats on trains. On my train to Bordeaux, clearly 100% of the seats were occupied. On the train back to Paris, it was at least 90% full, but of course who wants to go to Paris from the rest of France? Yuck! Since domestic tourism is the thing this year and there are 67 million people in France, some places are booked more than they ever were before. My hotel last night put out a "complet" sign (but I don't know if 100% of the rooms were available or just 50% or 75%). On the news this morning, there was a report about Corsica and the fact that no rental cars are available -- they are sold out. The rental companies did not anticipate the demand from French visitors since about half of the people going to Corsica in the summer are usually from other European countries.
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Post by tod2 on Jul 9, 2020 16:13:25 GMT
That was wonderful Kerouac! The best was the second to last photo. Oh my what a sensational pic!! That needs to be enlarged and framed for sure.
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Post by kerouac2 on Jul 9, 2020 17:54:41 GMT
I had a new mission the next morning, besides seeing anything that might appear along the way. I took the tram again to the Cité du Vin station, because it looked like it might be close to my destination. What a mistake! However, I was sure to see new things. The first thing was a modern new covered market. i.postimg.cc/HkQmjsGP/P1030932.jpgI just peeked in through the door and saw that they were just selling the usual stuff. No big deal. i.postimg.cc/3J0Y5Fth/P1030933.jpgI knew that my destination was somewhere along this basin. In fact, I could see it in the distance from time to time. i.postimg.cc/Vky1Y0hC/P1030934.jpgi.postimg.cc/6qgK485F/P1030935.jpgi.postimg.cc/y6bsbbXn/P1030936.jpgi.postimg.cc/q7wdXbvs/P1030937.jpgFences forced me to turn away from the water. Uh-oh. i.postimg.cc/jjtbf0tq/P1030938.jpgAh, but here at last was the far end of the German submarine base. Unfortunately, it was the wrong end. i.postimg.cc/mktRrYRQ/P1030939.jpgThis is one of the most indestructible buildings in the world. Allied artillery barely scratched it. i.postimg.cc/FRKXPyY2/P1030940.jpgGo right? Go left? This was one of the rare occasions that I pulled out my phone to consult the GPS. Thank god, except for the closed drawbridge. i.postimg.cc/3Rb5zkpW/P1030941.jpgOnce the dinky little sailboat had finished blocking traffic, I was able to get through, along with 50 cars. i.postimg.cc/NF8d7C16/P1030942.jpgThis was still a major hike in the wilds, but it won't be the wilds for long in view of all of the construction underway. i.postimg.cc/XN91bqTr/P1030943.jpgWill a tram line be coming here? At the very least there will be a bus line. i.postimg.cc/SNrZn5Qq/P1030945.jpgI found this sign slightly cruel for users of the food bank since it also showed the fast food they craved if they had any money. i.postimg.cc/N0ybPj6f/P1030946.jpgAnd after my long hike (more than an hour), I finally was at my destination. i.postimg.cc/dVV5rBDC/P1030947.jpgPerhaps I should go to the flying trapeze school instead? i.postimg.cc/FHCDZLJB/P1030948.jpgNo, I had already bought my ticket for this place. i.postimg.cc/jjCk0XbT/P1030949.jpgThere will be a full report in the Museum Zone thread sooner or later, but I will try to whet your curiosity with my little video.
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Post by kerouac2 on Jul 9, 2020 18:21:00 GMT
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Post by kerouac2 on Jul 9, 2020 18:49:27 GMT
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Post by bjd on Jul 9, 2020 18:50:07 GMT
I saw a video about that light show a few weeks ago. Good use for a place that can't serve many other purposes. Years ago we went to a photo exhibit there -- photos in black and white by Robert Capa. It was an extremely effective location for his pictures, many of which were about war.
Lagatta, Bordeaux is no longer staid. It was up to about 25 years ago, but now it's really quite interesting and lively.
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Post by Biddy on Jul 9, 2020 20:41:36 GMT
Just wondering how was the buffet breakfast at Ibis?
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Post by kerouac2 on Jul 10, 2020 4:57:22 GMT
The buffet was almost completely normal. Even better in certain details -- no need to pick up a tray and fish around for silverware in a bin. Everything was already on the tables, and each tray also had a set of little wooden tongs for picking up croissants, chocolatines and rolls or for serving cold cuts and cheese. Glasses of juice had been poured in advance so that nobody would have to use the juice dispenser. We were still allowed to push all of the buttons on the coffee machine, though.
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Post by bjd on Jul 10, 2020 5:22:45 GMT
Bordeaux must be north of Montréal then. Obviously Paris is, but I didn't think Bordeaux was. They seem to be at pretty much the same latitude... It is a beautiful city, but I get the idea that it would be rather staid. I am impressed by the very high quality public transport. I just looked, Bordeaux and Montreal are at the same latitude. If you want to explain why it's light later in Bordeaux in summer, there is the question of how far west it is in its time zone.
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Post by kerouac2 on Jul 10, 2020 5:25:18 GMT
Also, even with summer time, France is an hour ahead of what it should normally be since the Greenwich meridian runs right through France but we are at GMT+1 anyway.
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