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Post by bjd on Dec 11, 2009 22:47:50 GMT
In answer to Lagatta´s question about safety in Bogota -- I´m not really qualified to judge but I think the reputation for danger is pretty much overdone, at least as it is now. I do think it was much worse 5 or 10 years ago, but there have been huge improvements in security, there are lots of policemen and soldiers on the street, not looking especially threatening but just there. The streets downtown were packed today. My husband and I took a bus from where we are staying, in a fancy area with relatives by marriage, and went to the old section of the city. Sure, it´s South America so downtown you see people selling things on the streets, selling time on cell phones, shoeshine guys. But fewer beggars than in France. Last night we went out for a walk. It´s dark around 6 since we are close to the equator, but I think it is safer here than in Quito. 80 km of streets were closed to traffic and open to bikes and pedestrians last night from 6 till midnight so that people could go out to enjoy the Christmas lights on the buildings. There were tons of people everywhere and all the restaurants were full too. So obvioulsy, there are parts of the city where you don´t go at night, but lots of areas with people on the streets. Young couples with children, young women on their own -- just outside. Of course, there are still problems but I think there have been huge steps made to improve security. And people are friendly and smiling so that of course makes a good impression.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 11, 2009 22:51:44 GMT
I saw a report about Medellin a few months ago, which is definitely one of the "bogeyman" cities of Western culture, and it apparently pioneered the closing of streets for bicycles in Colombia a few years ago. The report made it seem like a lovely and lively city, and it was a relief to see something positive after so many years of the propaganda about it being the death capital of the world or some such.
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Post by bixaorellana on Dec 12, 2009 14:44:38 GMT
It sounds like a lovely city, Bjd. I'm so glad you all are having a good time.
As I've said before, having lived in Oaxaca in 2006, I got to see up close how lazy journalists churn out the same un-researched stuff over and over that hardens into a stereotyped image of a place.
Coming from the US, what I love about living here, and what seems to be prevalent in many other places in the world, is the whole expansiveness and safety of having >>life<< out in the streets. It's so civilized to have things open when people get off from work.
Bjd, how much longer will you be in Bogatá? I believe you said in another thread that you'd be moving on to the Caribbean coast.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 12, 2009 16:06:07 GMT
Yes, so good to hear. Have always wondered. Reminiscent of here in many ways from your description. Have a lovely time. Thanks for touching base with us.
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Post by lagatta on Dec 12, 2009 16:49:11 GMT
I'm very heartened to hear that. Friends of mine (some of them South American, and from other "Global South" countries originally) did have problems in Bogotá, but since I hadn't heard any of those scare stories in recent years, it did give me the idea that things might have improved. Yes, I knew about Medellin. The bicycle initiative was an important step in people "taking back" their city from the drug lords.
We are of course a bit schizophrenic as we live much like our cousins in New Orleans during the warm weather (and it was clement until last week this year!) but people tend to hunker down more in the winter. Fortunately in our central neighbourhoods (not just "downtown" but all the pre-2nd-world-war city), many people do walk everywhere and it is possible to do the daily shopping on foot).
I love el paseo (la passeggiata in Italian), the evening stroll for families and friends.
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Post by bjd on Dec 13, 2009 13:58:03 GMT
Hi everyone. We are still in bogota - will be leaving for Cartagena on the Caribbean coast tomorrow. We have been in the old historical centre of bogota twice now. The oldest part is really nice -- houses painted in bright colours - it reminds me of the old area of Valparaiso, chile, but without the sea view and not as hilly. but really pleasant. We also tend to spend time just walking around the commercial areas where there are always loads of people shinng shoes, selling cell phone time, with several phones attached to their clothes. Everything is open late because people work much longer hours here than in France -- the work week is 48 hours, and of course all those little jobs like shining shoes or selling lottery tickets don´t have fixed work days. If you don´t work, you don´t eat.
Both my husband and I were thinking how unfair life is when there are such large inequalities in society.
Unfortnately we don´t have time to go to Medellin, which is supposed to be a really pleasant place. but we did go to the Botero Museum here yesterday - great stuff and the museum is free so lots of locals in there too, not just tourists.
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Post by bixaorellana on Dec 13, 2009 14:25:40 GMT
Hello, Bjd! I am so much enjoying this report of Bogotá. As discussed above, the city suffers from contemporary bad press. However, my own image of it was shaped by the depiction of it as the home of Fernanda in 100 Years of Solitude -- an austere, gloomy place. (I don't think it is named, only implied.) Now, since you're leaving for the coast, I will imagine you on your way to Macondo.
You make such a good point about how much people work in the 2nd and 3rd worlds. Even though you know Latin America and Africa, you must now be seeing it anew because of arriving from France. What always strikes me is all the hard, invisible work people do -- the little corner stores sending someone to the market for meat, the tamales ladies cooking at four in the morning, etc.
It's so good of you to take the time to tell about your trip. More, more, please!
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Post by Deleted on Dec 13, 2009 21:37:12 GMT
Read this early this morning bjd,and just now getting back to.... I love, above all, reading about people's trips as they are in progress. You are there right now (or you were...). That immediacy of posting from where one is comes through and is so special. getting up close and personal,your impressions ,the colors, right there. So generous of you yes,to take the time out to do this. Thanks.
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Post by bjd on Dec 16, 2009 19:14:32 GMT
I'll stay on the same thread even though I'm no longer in Bogota. We got to Cartagena on Monday afternoon - getting off the plane was like walking into a sauna- about 35° and humid. It's an extremely picturesque city - lots of painted houses and colonial architecture, wooden balconies and tropical flowers in full bloom. Evey street corner has someone selling cut up watermelon, papayas, mangoes, oranges, mandarin juice - you name it. Not too much street food other than arepas, which are floury things with cheese. We also went to the beach this morning and there too are people selling everything from hats, to sunglasses, necklaces, offering massages -- it´s a bit of a pain, but at least they are not insistent. Tomorrow morning we are leaving to go further east, towards Parque Tayrona, for those who look at maps.
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Post by bixaorellana on Dec 16, 2009 19:26:24 GMT
Oooo ~~ brightly colored houses, wooden balconies and lots flowers ......... a dream of the tropics! Although the mugginess might be uncomfortable, you'll be thrilled at its effect on the skin. This sounds wonderful, Bjd -- so lively. If you don't mind, I'll share my map googling here: Colombia and Parque Tayrona.
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Post by imec on Dec 17, 2009 3:13:45 GMT
Sounds like a great time bjd - have fun!
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Post by Deleted on Dec 17, 2009 4:39:08 GMT
Does sound wonderful BJD. Enjoy! keep us posted,thanks!
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Post by onlyMark on Jan 29, 2019 13:10:32 GMT
Just to revive this, I leave tomorrow for three weeks in Colombia. It's not the first time I've been but I will travel around more places than before. I will land in Bogotá in a couple of days and don't expect to regularly post until my return. Just in case you miss me. I will be travelling light and won't take my best camera with me so photos may be few and far between. In fact the object won't be to prioritise photos to prepare a report but I will keep my eye open if I see anything unusual and of interest.
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Post by bjd on Jan 29, 2019 14:04:30 GMT
Have a good time, Mark.
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Post by onlyMark on Jan 29, 2019 14:30:46 GMT
I hope to, thanks.
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Post by bixaorellana on Jan 29, 2019 15:17:54 GMT
Nice! Have a great time and of course we're hoping for some kind of report from you, pictures or not. Is it okay to ask if this is some kind of fact-finding mission?
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Post by onlyMark on Jan 29, 2019 19:00:42 GMT
No, just a holiday. I know what you're thinking though. But there will be no news on where we might end up until at least late Spring.
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Post by mich64 on Jan 29, 2019 19:14:25 GMT
Hope you have a wonderful holiday!
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Post by onlyMark on Jan 30, 2019 22:40:57 GMT
Now spending the night in Sao Paolo. Unfortunately no time for a look round.
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Post by bixaorellana on Jan 31, 2019 0:52:10 GMT
I know what you're thinking though. The ultimate in hacking!
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Post by kerouac2 on Jan 31, 2019 4:46:02 GMT
Now spending the night in Sao Paolo. Unfortunately no time for a look round. You're not really missing much.
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Post by onlyMark on Feb 15, 2019 17:47:51 GMT
Back in Bogota after a trip around parts of the country. Back home in a few days.
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