Auvergne - take 1

[Deleted]

Auvergne is a strange place for me to go, because it is perhaps the region of France where I feel the least comfortable. Everything about it seems alien to me -- the people, the architecture and the landscape. The landscape is indeed different from the rest of France because it is a volcanic zone, even though there has been no eruption for 8000 years.

This is not my photograph, but it will give you an idea of the area.

All of the villages and towns are built out of volcanic rock in a style that would not look out of place in a vampire movie. For example, here is the center of Riom, a town near Clermont Ferrand.

[Deleted]

[Deleted]

Actually, the people of Auvergne reputedly did not much like their region either in the 19th and early 20th century, because they deserted the region en masse. To complete their connection with Hades, the traditional profession of the people of Auvergne was to sell coal. Luckily for them, this profession was coupled with the café industry. Until around 1960, it was not uncommon to see the words « café - charbon » on the front of cafés, because they sold as much coal as they did coffee.

Oh, here is the prison of Riom.

Even though the towns of Auvergne mostly give me the creeps, here is another town along a river. I tried to imagine that it is probably nice in the summer.

The villages are all set up the same. Here is one village with the various sides of the village square.

the church


the school


the town hall (and ‘postal agency’)


the foyer rural (activity center)


oh yes, and the old town fountain…


in the center, a cross, perhaps to ward off evil volcanic spirits

Oh, I’m not saying that they don’t try hard, but the architecture of these village chapels and churches doesn’t indicate to me much knowledge of spirituality.

But there is an aspect of Auvergne that I consider to be quite lovely. I will talk about it in ‘take 2’.

[bixaorellana]

Wow, those people like their BIG crosses! Perhaps there is a vampirish element there, and all the cafés are to make sure everyone is eating enough garlic.

You could definitely use any one of those pictures, sans signs in French, to stump people in a "where is this" game.

Do you suppose the stumpy design of the churches is because of earthquakes? It is a volcanic zone, after all. The tower on that church in reply #1 is more pointy roof than tower.

That last photo in reply #1 -- was the the art nouveau detailing added much later?

I like the prison -- it's properly grim.

This is truly interesting. What was the food like? (lots of blood pudding? ha ha)

[Don Cuevas]

K2, he first photo of the landscape is very similar to that around Pátzcuaro, Michoacán, Meexico, the area where we live. A look at Google Earth shows this very well. In particular, the terrain between the west side of Lake Pátzcuaro and the city of Uruapan (Capital Mundial del Aguacate) looks a lot like that of the Auvergne.

The towns are not at all similar.

[hwinpp]

I quite liked the Auvergne, St. Etienne not so much though.

Funny, I just checked on a map and St. Etienne isn't even in the Auvergne. I think I've overnighted at Puy de Dome and I think it was quite nice.

[spindrift]

I have a friend who was born in the Auvergne. We call her La Belle Catherine. I meet up with her when I visit Ste. Foy de Longas near Bergerac. She has a very 'spiritual' bent but in a way I have not previously encountered. She tries to persuade me to visit the Auvergne because she thinks I'd like the area. Indeed she is right and I'm sure I would. I feel 'called' to volcanic areas although I've only visited such places in Kenya in the Rift Valley. I imagine the Auvergne region is 'deep' and 'spiritual' it its own way and I'm betting it would be very difficult for outsiders to begin to understand it. I'm looking forward to going there and seeing for myself.

[auntieannie]

some of these villages wouldn't really be out of place in the Jura region of Switzerland, I think.

[bixaorellana]

What are the last names like in the region? Are there lots of them which seem to have different roots than the rest of the country? Also, is there a dialect spoken in the region?

[Deleted]

The family names are just like other typical French names. I checked and "Martin" is #1 -- just like in the rest of France (not to mention Spain and Great Britain). Faure, Roche, Roux, Boyer, Brun, Bernard, Bonnet, Giraud, Robert...

Just about every region of France used to have its own dialect, mostly all gone now. Auvergnat villagers do have a very strong accent with rolling RRRRR's, however.

The most famous company to be based in Auvergne is Michelin.... more vulcanization!

[gertie]

I take it that is some sort of black basaltic rock, and not just dirty from smog? I think I should quite like to visit on a lovely summer day, but some of those streets look as though they would be quite dark and disquieting of an evening, particularly with a chill wind. I can just imagine settling down by a grand fireplace in one of those dark stone buildings and telling scary tales! What a wonderful place!

[Deleted]

The Michelin Man was definitely creepier looking in 1898, and his friends even more so.

[Jazz]

The Auvergne is different from most of France that I have seen photos of and it has a Germanic feel to me. But, I like it. Austere and beautiful. I wonder why you feel uncomfortable there. I love the photo of the naked branches against the sky in the small quiet square. (the third one in #1.)

[Deleted]

[bixaorellana]

;D Yep, I think you proved your point.

[Deleted]

You may now move along to Auvergne - take 2.

[frenchmystiquetour]

My wife and I are laughing hysterically right now. She has to hold her breath between pictures to keep from choking.

[frenchmystiquetour]

Try googling some pictures of a place called La Grand-Combe in the Gard region. We voted it the ugliest town in France. I think it outdoes Riom. Even the vampires stay away.

[Deleted]

On another site, I found a reason to dredge up this old report and realised that it was just as colourless as my recent report about Brest.