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Post by Deleted on Apr 6, 2009 9:59:53 GMT
Actually, this is one of the many Indian cities which has modified its name in recent years. Since September 2006, the official name used in India is Puducherry. Pondichéry was a French colony until 1956, actually 4 little specks of unconnected territory: Pondicherry, Karaikal, Yanam and Mahé. Pondicherry and Karaikal are both in Tamil Nadu, in southern India. France was very strict when ceding the territory back to India and to this day, French remains one of the official languages, and the Puducherry Union Territory remains a special administrative district within India, with special institutions and rights. This is not to say that this cannot be changed, but it can only be changed with the approval of the residents and not unilaterally by the Indian government. So far the status quo seems to suit everybody, and the economy and literacy rates are higher than the Indian average. Anyway, I went there a number of years ago because I wanted to see it for myself -- and I wanted to see Auroville, too, but that is worthy of a separate post. The French consulate of Pondicherry is still a relatively important building in the city. There are plenty of other traces of the French influence as well. One of the most amazing aspects of the former colonial zone of Pondicherry ( la ville blanche) is how peaceful and quiet it is compared to a normal Indian city. The police still wear a French-inspired képi. The old lighthouse (more soon)
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Post by Deleted on Apr 6, 2009 13:05:14 GMT
The Indian side of the city ( la ville noire) definitely shows more signs of being inhabited. For some reason, the Pondicherry train station is mostly abandoned, although two or three trains a day leave from there. I think that perhaps the hundreds of buses that go between Pondicherry and Chennai (Madras) have sucked away all of the rail passengers. They can get more convenient trains out of Chennai station. The oceanfront promenade is on the colonial side of town, but a number of people deign to come over to that side for a walk when it isn't too hot. The statue of Jeanne d'Arc is a bit lonely in its dusty garden. Pondicherry also has a botanical garden of sorts. There is a park across from the hospital where the families camp out and prepare food for the person inside. This is common in Indian hospitals since the patients are not always fed. I was intrigued by this bust of Victor Schoelcher. I believe that he was based in Pondicherry for part of his career, but his claim to fame is as one of the principal abolitionists of slavery in the French West Indies, where he remains a major hero. He also was involved in the abolition of corporal punishment in French prisons. I stayed at one of the Sri Aurobindo Ashram guesthouses, which were by far the best kept establishments in the city. This is what the Park Guest House looked like from the street. (It was in the colonial part of town, even though it was a relatively modern building.) Once you get through the front door, it is another oasis from normal Indian life. Its private garden was along the seawall, so there was a pleasant breeze even in the hottest part of the day. Back when I stayed there, the price was a modest 2.75€ a day, but that was more than a decade ago. I just checked the current rate, and now you must shell out 5.93€ a night to stay there. The people of the sect did not try to take over my mind, and I respected the two main rules that I was given: no alcohol and no smoking on the premises. The second rule was super easy since I don't smoke anyway. And the beer was just wonderful at the seafood restaurant located on the pier that can be seen in the photo above. I would gladly return there some day.
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Post by spindrift on Apr 6, 2009 13:41:14 GMT
I like the look of the place and especially like the Park Guest House overlooking the sea.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 6, 2009 14:33:32 GMT
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Post by bazfaz on Apr 6, 2009 20:37:42 GMT
I have always wanted to go to Pondicherry. More so now.
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Post by spindrift on Apr 6, 2009 20:47:58 GMT
Me too. I've never travelled up the East side of India. I believe there are ancient temples built right out onto the sands. This appeals to me.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 6, 2009 21:46:39 GMT
Daniel Ceppi, a Swiss author of graphic novels, prominently featured Pondicherry in one of them. I recognized nearly all of the street scenes that appeared in it, notably the main street of the Indian side of town, and the hospital in the colonial section, with its park full of trees.
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voy
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The Lobstah Lady
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Post by voy on Apr 8, 2009 1:21:22 GMT
to say nothing of the fooooood!! after South India, the old colonial part of Pondicherry was such a relief. and I had a recommendation to a lovely restaurant, on top of a building - with awnings and trellises - and light, french -ish - ly cooked fish. otoh - I hated Auroville.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 8, 2009 5:01:55 GMT
The rooftop restaurant with the trellis is the Hotel Aristo -- a really delightful place. I went there at least twice. It appears in the graphic novel, too.
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Post by hwinpp on Apr 8, 2009 5:07:07 GMT
I've only been to Madras on the east coast. Pondicherry looks ok but I think I'd prefer staying in the black part of town.
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Post by bixaorellana on Apr 8, 2009 5:20:48 GMT
Not eggzackly on the subject, but ......... I love how a baby's cry can be accurately rendered in French due to the -in ending! "Ouiiin" really is how a baby sounds, but you can't write it in English.
I had to do a double-take on picture #5 because it looks so much like a street around here. Really, that's what so striking about the photos of the colonial zone -- except for the tropical foliage, there is no indication of which country it is.
Most interesting. Thanks!
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Post by Deleted on Apr 8, 2009 5:38:20 GMT
Pondicherry looks ok but I think I'd prefer staying in the black part of town. Yes, absolutely -- but Pondicherry is a good place for people to go when they are attracted to India but terrified of being overwhelmed. That is the greatest fear that I have heard expressed by people who have never been there. "Real" travellers are not bothered by the teeming crowds.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 8, 2009 12:33:04 GMT
Sometime in the last six months or so N.Y.Times Travel did a piece on Pondicherry. I read with great interest as I for a long time held a fascination with the place,perhaps the backdrop for a novel or a friend's visit there put this in my head. Anyway,in the Times piece it described how Pondicherry "used" to be and it was reminiscent of your impressions K2. The writer then went on to say how a large portion of the city has since become very trendy with a number of upscale,high end boutiques and cafes.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 8, 2009 12:55:25 GMT
Yes, I was given the link to that article yesterday. Here it is : travel.nytimes.com/2008/03/30/travel/30Pondicherry.htmlThe New York Times seems to decide automatically that its readers will only accept a high end experience if they go somewhere. I have almost choked sometimes when they have one of their 'Frugal Traveler' articles and it marvels at hotel rooms in Paris for only $200 a night and a delicious lunch for a mere $50.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 8, 2009 13:44:29 GMT
I agree,am not a big fan either. Just imagine how many take their word as Gospel. As with food critics,many start off with a keenness that's fresh and then gradually become more and more arrogant and ultimate authorities on all things.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 9, 2009 11:16:54 GMT
to say nothing of the fooooood!! after South India, the old colonial part of Pondicherry was such a relief. and I had a recommendation to a lovely restaurant, on top of a building - with awnings and trellises - and light, french -ish - ly cooked fish. otoh - I hated Auroville. Here is the rooftop restaurant in the graphic novel. The Aristo is in the Indian part of Pondicherry.
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Post by auntieannie on Apr 13, 2009 16:45:33 GMT
I had posted on this thread!
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Post by Deleted on Apr 13, 2009 17:06:31 GMT
When? Where? Have we been deprived of your luscious intellect by a nasty computer virus?
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Post by auntieannie on Apr 13, 2009 19:36:58 GMT
nothing luscious about my intellect, K! no virus either... might just be my chocolate-addled brain.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 13, 2009 19:41:54 GMT
Personally, I am a regular victim of using the preview button and then forgetting to validate my post. Very annoying when you have written something more lengthy than usual.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 16, 2009 20:15:53 GMT
So interesting, now I want to see it too.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 9, 2013 15:08:28 GMT
ha. I wrote that back in 2009. And now I really will be going!
I've been reading up on Pondicherry and I hear that French is still widely spoken there. That will be interesting to see.
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Post by anshjain97 on Jan 9, 2013 15:12:02 GMT
I visites Pondicherry in Nov 2010- certainly didn't hear any French. The closest thing to French were the street signs and some names of restaurnats, such as "Le Cafe", but I strongly doubt that the anyone you'll meet- in hotels, restaurants etc will speak French.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 9, 2013 15:19:46 GMT
Oh really? Well, I wonder why it says that in the travel guide that I'm reading? Makes sense though, after all it's been a long time since the French left the city.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 9, 2013 15:20:04 GMT
Probably the only French speaking people there now are the ones from my neighbourhood in Paris who originate from there returning for a visit and who now have a generation or two of totally French children on their hands!
Nevertheless, I know that the Alliance Française and the Lycée français are very active there.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 9, 2013 15:25:03 GMT
Well, whoever wrote that travel guide has his information all wrong!
btw I'm astonished at just how many Europeans and others have made India their home through settlements/invasions etc. over the centuries. And because of that there is such a diversity and mix of people and cultures and religions.
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Post by anshjain97 on Jan 9, 2013 15:27:20 GMT
Of course, some people at the AF would speak French. But really, Pondicherry being French is a stereotype, nothing more. It's a nice city, with some French architecture and a seaside promenade, but by all accounts, it is firmly Indian. I have a blog post on it here: anshjainblogs.blogspot.in/2010/11/pondicherry-puducherry.htmlEnjoy your trip, Deyana! Are you going to Mahabalipuram as well?
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Post by Deleted on Jan 9, 2013 15:30:33 GMT
I don't know if anybody here has seen "Life of Pi" but it starts in Pondicherry at the botanical gardens! And if you don't know why Pi is called Pi, it's because his real first name is "Piscine Molitor"! (He shortened it to Pi because the nasty children they have in India kept calling him "Pissing.")
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Post by Deleted on Jan 9, 2013 15:31:44 GMT
Thanks, ansh, I'm looking forward to it. Although I admit I'm kinda nervous about it all. The route I will be taking (or hope to take) is on my 'Deyanas's India' thread.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 9, 2013 15:37:04 GMT
That's interesting, Kerouac. There have been quite a few movies shot or partly shot it India, including a James Bond one in Rajasthan I believe.
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