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Post by spindrift on Jul 20, 2009 18:13:28 GMT
Everyone has heard of Winchester Cathredal because of that 1966 song. I thought it was high time that I walked around Winchester taking photographs and I started in front of the cathedral. The war memorial faces the Cathedral. Here's that fine window with a little more detail showing. A little history would come in handy here! Winchester used to be a Roman town called Venta Belgarum (the market place of the Belgae).....but that is another story. Let's concentrate on the cathedral for now. Present day Winchester Cathedral stands on the site of the Old Minster and the New Minster which stood side by side. In the mid 7th century AD, Winchester occupied a role at the heart of Wessex - the Kingdom of the West Saxons. Its people had converted to Christianity so King Cenwalh founded a church (around 650AD) on the raised island in the flood plain of the river Itchen which became the Old Minster, the seat (cathedra) of the Bishops of Wessex. This minster contained the shrine of St. Swithun, a bishop of Winchester, who died in 863. His relics attracted pilgrims from far and wide and it is recorded that crutches and other items were hung up in the minster to honour this saint who cured the inflicted. The Old Minster was the most important royal church of Anglo-Saxon England. The palace of the Kings lay immediately in front of it. Kings Egbert (839), Alfred (899), Canute (1035) and Edward the Confessor (1043) were crowned here. As the Kings of Wessex expanded their realm to include all of England, Winchester became the royal capital. Coronations took place here and the royal treasury was located in the city. London was always larger and more wealthy but administration was carried out from Winchester. King Alfred was one of our nation's great men. He was religious, scholarly and a wise ruler. Wessex, under his leadership, was the only one of the Anglo Saxon kingdoms to survive the Danish attacks of the 9th century. King Alfred initiated a programme for the revival of religion and learning. With his encouragement a climate was created in which those with power and wealth were prepared to foster the conditions in which craftsmen and artists would flourish. King Alfred ruled Wessex from 871 until his death in 899. His remains were temporarily buried in the Old Minster but moved to the New Minster, on its completion and consecration in 903, thence to Hyde Abbey at its foundation in 1110. The New Minster was founded by Edward the Elder in 901 close to the north side of the Old Minster. Benedictine monks and nuns lived there under strict rules. Winchester underwent dramatic changes with the Norman Conquest. In 1066 William came to Winchester after the Battle of Hastings. The city surrendered without a fight and became prosperous under the Norman kings. By the command of William the Conqueror, the Old Minster was demolished in 1093 to make way for the present cathedral. When finished the Norman church was immense, 164m in length, the largest church in England or Normandy and a clear statement of Winchester's pre-eminence. William also ordered the construction of a new castle in the south-west of the walled city and enlarged the royal palace in front of the Old and New Minsters. By 1141 Winchester had three castles. Bishop Walkelin began the construction of Winchester Cathedral in 1079. St. Swithun's relics were moved into it along with the remains of the English kings, queens and bishops. The Old Minster was demolished in 1093. The Norman Cathedral still stands today, changed by time but still serving the same purpose as its predecessors 1400 years ago - to glorify God and to welcome pilgrims. Here are pictures that I've taken whilst walking around the outside of the cathedral. thread title modified at Spindrift's request
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Post by bixaorellana on Jul 20, 2009 18:40:02 GMT
Oh Spindrift ~~ this is SUCH a treat!
Wonderful, wonderful pictures, and I love having the historical background. You had a glorious day for your picture-taking session. The spires are so beautiful and timeless against that blue sky. The war memorial is elegantly suited to the space, isn't it?
If you took an interior shot during the day, I think you'd get the stained glass windows brilliantly lit and surrounded by black.
The roses are everything one could hope when thinking of an English summer, and the little arched door looks like the one for The Secret Garden.
This was so enjoyable -- thank you!
note: the very last picture is not showing
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Post by Deleted on Jul 20, 2009 18:41:12 GMT
Wonderful! And it certainly isn't overrun with tourists, which is a relief (written like a true Parisian).
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Post by spindrift on Jul 20, 2009 18:58:24 GMT
On one side of the cathedral is the Cathedral Close. This is where the clerics, judges, teachers and those of importance lived. The Close is guarded by a 14ft high wall made of local flint stones with two large and sturdy oak doors that are closed at 10pm and opened again in the morning. Here is a picture of the flint wall from outside the Close in St.Swithun Street. Now we are about to pass through the archway leading into the Cathedral Close. And once through the Arch, on the right is Cheyney Court. It was in this late 16th century building that the bishop held his court over the Soke. The area of town under the bishop's jurisdiction was known as the Soke. The Arch is known as Priory Gate and dates from the 16th century. This gate has nail-studded doors with a little inset pedestrian gate and is surmounted by a tiny room, originally intended for the cathedral organist. Here we see The Pilgrims' prep School which opened in 1931. Adjacent to the school is the 14th century Pilgrims' Hall, traditionally believed to have been the guest-house where pilgrims to St. Swithun's shrine would have gathered for food and shelter. The flint-rubble walled hall has the oldest surviving hammer-beam roof in England. The Deanery, still fronted by its 13th century vaulted porch, was once the Prior's lodgings and was largely rebuilt in the 17th century after damage during the Civil War. A cul-de-sac called Dome Alley In this vicinity a ghostly limping monk is said to materialize and move across the close towards an arch which forms a roadway to the gardens near the South Transept. He was seen frequently in the post-war years and again in the 1970s, but at other times rarely puts in an appearance more than once a year. ref: Haunted Hampshire by Rupert Matthews
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Post by spindrift on Jul 20, 2009 19:00:46 GMT
I'm so pleased you like this thread....
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Post by lola on Jul 20, 2009 19:20:37 GMT
Just beautiful, Spindrift. Thanks so much.
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Post by spindrift on Jul 20, 2009 21:31:47 GMT
Leaving the Close behind I walk through one of the old oak doors into the open space in front of the cathedral where tourists and locals sit and watch the world go by. I am very close to the War Memorial. I am looking towards Minster Street which is in the heart of the town. There are ancient grave stones dotted all around the grass. Everyone stops to read the inscription on this stone. It tells the story of a young solider in the local militia who drank too much cold beer on a hot day and died as a result. I'm now going to take you down to the river. This river (part of the River Itchen) was diverted from the main stream in Roman times and made to flow just outside the city wall. It used to be wider and deeper in times past. Here I'm looking towards the old Mill. The small bridge takes large buses and other traffic into the centre of town. These gates belong to large houses with gardens sweeping down to the river. I'm sure people used to keep boats moored here. [img src=" i721.photobucket.com/albums/ww213/spindrift_09/Winchester-quickwalkJul09022.jpg"] Someone has a private bridge leading to their house - to be contd.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 20, 2009 21:41:41 GMT
I was starting to worry! It wasn't until this last set that I saw any trace of human beings!
(But the photos are delightful.)
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Post by bixaorellana on Jul 21, 2009 0:39:42 GMT
After the first set, I thought it couldn't possibly get any better ........... but I was wrong!
Not to be flippant, but looking at Winchester it's hard not to think, "They don't build 'em like they used to!" It seems that all of the dwellings you show have been in continuous use since their construction. I'll bet the plumbing retrofits have been hell.
The mixed border in front of the first old house you show is a marvel -- just a gorgeous use of plants.
The grand buildings and your historical explanations are wonderful, but I simply adore that last set, with all the quiet and small spaces people created for their pleasure.
More! More!
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Post by bazfaz on Jul 21, 2009 9:00:58 GMT
That brings back happy memories of my visit there.
Have you got a photo of the pub where we had a drink (and they had just sold the last sausages)?
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Post by tillystar on Jul 21, 2009 9:23:03 GMT
Wow. Your pictures are gorgeous!
I have only ever driven through Winchester and caught a flash of all this. I have always thought it looked like a pretty place, but I had no idea!
I can tell that missing out on that sausage still haunts you Baz!
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Post by spindrift on Jul 21, 2009 10:31:41 GMT
Kerouac - I was out early in the morning the day I was taking pictures! Hence the lack of people. In addition, there's a wrought-iron perimeter fence around most of the cathedral where people cannot walk. Hence the empty spaces. When tourists come to Winchester they seem to walk around the high street and then visit the interior of the cathedral and sit on the grass in front of it. I rarely meet tourists on my usual back-streets Winchester walks. Oh yes...they visit Winchester College which is another hot spot. I would love to take pics of the college buildings but without a Wykehamist to accompany me, I'm not allowed in.
Baz - I couldn't take a good picture of the front of the Wykeham Arms pub simply because, owing to the time of day, the sun wasn't shining on it and the front was in deep shadow. I'll have to return at another time. Btw those sausages are excellent and are served every day. You'd better come and visit me again!
Tilly - if you want a day out in Winch (with LittleStar and/or hubby) I'll escort you around! It would be a pleasure.
There's lots more exciting stuff to come.....the house where Jane Austen died, the Bishop's palace, the lovely old streets and the famous Water Meadows where I was lucky to capture a photo of a young deer.
Bixa - putting these up here I came to realise that, being so familiar with my surroundings, I mostly fail to notice the beauty around me.
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Post by spindrift on Jul 21, 2009 18:19:22 GMT
This is the William Walker pub that is on the corner of Market Street which is parallell to the cathedral. It was William Walker, or Diver Bill, as he was affectionately known , who single-handedly saved the cathedral from collapse as it slowly sank into the ground during the years 1906 -1911. He gallantly shored-up the foundations. To this very day there is flooding beneath the cathedral when the water level rises. All the way up Market Street there are picturesque shops like this one. On sunny days tables and chairs are put out and coffee is served. The Eclipse Inn is notorious for being haunted by the ghost of the unfortunate Lady Alicia Lisle. She became involved in the political turbulance following the Civil War and was sentenced to be burnt at the stake in the Square by the bloodthirsty Judge Jeffries. The people of Winchester made an appeal to King James who decided to be merciful(?) and so she was beheaded instead in front of the Eclipse pub. The Old Vine pub is the nicest possible place to sit and have lunch whilst looking out at the cathedral and the ideal places to observe the bustle of Market Square. A friend of mine seriously thought of buying this charming dwelling but finally decided against it as it didn't have a garden at the back. This is the view of the cathedral from Market Square (and the Old Vine pub).... This is the famous Wykeham Arms pub where I took Baz for wine and sausages (as you know - sold out!). The Wykeham Arms is an institution where the dons of Winchester College form their own exclusive coterie and everyone else has to hover around on the outside! It takes years (even decades) to become a 'regular' at the pub.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 21, 2009 18:24:36 GMT
No photo of the sausages?
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Post by bixaorellana on Jul 21, 2009 18:42:07 GMT
That is disconcerting about the river eating away at the foundations of the cathedral!
Spindrift, you've really made me feel as though I am there. I love seeing all the beautiful buildings from different eras cheek by jowl with each other. And the flowers! There are so many flower boxes and hanging baskets flaunting their colorful cheer. I particularly liked the juxtaposition of two buildings and styles in the 2nd photo in this group. There is Cadogan's being spiffy, but relaxed and welcoming with traditional flower boxes. And right next door is Bang & Olufsen, which has updated its venerable building with a crisp white and no-nonsense charcoal paint job, then completed the feeling of modernity with those perfect globes of greenery.
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Post by tillystar on Jul 21, 2009 18:47:35 GMT
Oh how cruel and heartless to throw up the missing sausages again
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Post by Deleted on Jul 21, 2009 19:15:32 GMT
I mean, really, spindrift is just showing us fabulous photographs of buildings and other architectural delights, but she is missing the important sausages.
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Post by auntieannie on Jul 21, 2009 19:49:50 GMT
thanks for this, Spindrift (it allows me to pass on Exeter and its cathedral)
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Post by Deleted on Jul 21, 2009 19:49:55 GMT
Great pictures spindrift! Thanks for sharing those.
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Post by spindrift on Jul 21, 2009 20:29:30 GMT
The Wykeham sausages are no ordinary sausages! They are made by John Robinson Butchers in the small (but well known) village of Stockbridge which is famous for its chalk river fishing (trout of course!). The Sausages are only offered for sale at the pub in the early evening where they are pounced upon by hungry drinkers (I was going to say boozers).... During cold winter evenings there is nothing quite like quaffing wine in the Wykeham with one's back to one of three (yes 3) roaring log fires. Ah...the bliss of it. There is lots to look at, the walls being covered with ancient (and interesting) prints of battles fought long ago, ships leaving Southampton - not far away, and anchored at faraway ports. Whilst hanging from the ceilings there are varieties of old pint mugs, jugs and the like...with odd items attached to the walls, I am thinking of wooden skis and perhaps old harnesses for bygone oxen. The trusty old Wykeham Arms is known far and wide. Its landlords come and go, even die, but the Wykeham goes on.....thank goodness. Good food is served and the wine cellar is excellent!
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Post by bazfaz on Jul 21, 2009 20:31:29 GMT
I so missed the sausages that I was forced to cook lots tonight: see On the Menu.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 21, 2009 20:46:58 GMT
Damn! I'm not high class at all, so they would never let me in the shop.
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Post by spindrift on Jul 21, 2009 21:18:21 GMT
Ah! Well done! ;D Stockbridge!
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Post by lola on Jul 21, 2009 21:25:59 GMT
Beautiful, Spindrift.
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Post by spindrift on Jul 21, 2009 21:58:20 GMT
Across the road from Wykeham Arms is this charming old house with a Victorian postbox set into the wall and still in use. This is Cornflowers shop that stocks everything pertaining to Winchester College - embroidered cushions with the motto 'Manners Makeyth Man'...CDs of the Quiristers singing in the cathedral and any and all manner of keepsakes including teddy bears. And now we arrive at Kingsgate which is one of the ancient gates of the walled city of Winchester. Above Kingsgate is the tiny church of St. Swithun upon Kingsgate. This is the house where Jane Austen lived from May to July 1817. Previously she, her mother and sisters had lived in the village of Chawton near Alton. She moved to Winchester to be nearer to her doctor. It is probable that she was suffering from Addison's disease. She died, aged 41, on 18th July and was buried in Winchester Cathedral. and on the way to the Watermeadows, for a bit of relaxation, we pass the main forbidding-looking gate of Winchester College.
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Post by spindrift on Jul 22, 2009 13:10:02 GMT
Let's resume our walk to the Water Meadows that are only a 15 minute stroll from the centre of town. Too few people know they exist but perhaps that's a good thing for us locals. Water meadows are an important element of Hampshire's historic landscape and characteristic of the many chalk valley streams. Only about 4% are still well preserved. A water meadow is an area of valley bottom pasture which is deliberately flooded (also known as floated). The water flow is controlled across the meadows from carriers to drains. Nutrients are deposited and in the late winter water protects the grass roots from the frosts, ensuring early spring grass. This allows stock to be grazed earlier in the spring. In the 17th and 18th centuries water meadows became more common and, in Hampshire, became an integral part of the farming cycle. Winchester College own most (if not all) of the water meadows and encourage citizens to walk - with their dogs on leads - around part of the area. It is necessary to have dogs restrained simply because there is a lot of wildlife in the fields. I have observed that most people do not obey this regulation. Looking across the expanse of meadows I can see Winchester College cricket pavilion. I am really thrilled to catch a glimpse of a young deer. John Keats stayed in Winchester in 1819 and daily walked through the cathedral close to the water meadows. The meadows have changed little over the years, the waters of the Itchen are still crystal clear and morning and evenings mists rise from the river. It is said that Keats was inspired to write 'Ode to Autumn' which starts - 'Season of mists and mellow fruitfulness Close bosom friend of the maturing sun Conspiring with him how to load and bless With fruit the vines that round the thatch-eves run....'
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Post by bixaorellana on Jul 22, 2009 14:48:17 GMT
Spindrift, I am bowled over by this section! This is about as beautiful as anything could be. I have read about water meadows, but had no idea they were something controlled by the hand of man. How glorious to have that gently wild area right in your town. I really caught your excitement at seeing the deer in that setting. I am such an admirer of English landscape design, and looking at these views of nature, one can see how the grand masters of that design school were influenced. The "flags" and Queen Anne's lace (or wild carrot?) together are wonderful. Is that a wild fritillary in the photo above the deer? And what is that magnificent cascade of foaming whiteness in the last picture? Everything about that photo is wonderful. Really, I can't single out one photograph, though, as this is such a beautifully cohesive tour through the area.
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Post by lola on Jul 22, 2009 14:57:43 GMT
I asked an elderly man at Haddon Hall what the wild-carroty looking things growing everywhere were, since they had vases of them in the Hall and you just assume everyone knows flower names. (They weren't Queen Anne's Lace. ) He dashed off before I stop him to ask someone and returned with: "Baby's breath. We think."
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Post by bixaorellana on Jul 22, 2009 15:50:28 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Jul 22, 2009 17:14:36 GMT
Really lovely photos, Spindrift. It is almost a shame that England will soon look like Provence due to global warming. (And what will Provence look like?)
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