imec in Rome

[imec]

There are 9 parts to this story/trip report all in this thread. Please be sure to read them in the correct sequence to ensure coherence. Thanks.

As my wedding anniversary nears, I thought I might commemorate the occasion by posting a report (previously posted on another site) of a surprise trip to Rome which I arranged for our 25th, two years ago.

Here is my Rome trip report from the last week of July, 2007.

(Please note, it was originally posted without pictures and wasn’t actually meant to be a photo essay. I’ve added a few pics but to be honest, most of the pics we took were pics of each other – it was after all a trip to celebrate our relationship – sorry)

Part 1

Background:

First let me offer a little bit of background/context for this trip. I arranged this trip as a surprise for my wife to celebrate our 25th wedding anniversary. After many months of secret planning, I only told my wife we were going on a trip 10 days before we left. The really sneaky bit though, is that I told her we were going to Montreal and Quebec city (where we celebrated our honeymoon). This gave her an opportunity to do any last minute shopping, visit the salon, get properly packed etc. without actually giving away the big part of the surprise. Still, she was very surprised and excited about the prospect of visiting Quebec and I was held in high esteem for those ten days for arranging something so romantic .

The secret planning was a lot of fun but was also very nerve wracking. Early on in the process I had to be sure that the time I had chosen would accommodate my wife's busy work schedule. Then there were the months of covert web based research on what to do, where to go, where to eat etc.

I obviously spent a lot of time alone while planning all this and my wife was actually becoming worried about it. I also had to become adept at quickly hiding windows on my laptop whenever I sensed she might get a peak at my screen - I'm sure she thought I was viewing naughty websites! Then there was the sneaking of books (Fodors, Rick Steeves and the Lonely Planet Phrase Book) into the house and keeping them hidden, printing out confirmations for air, hotel, limo, tours etc. and ensuring they were well hidden (but not so well that I couldn't remember where they were) and finally, buying and sneaking in a travel iron as I learned on a travel forum that my hotel didn't provide one. And remember, all this stuff had to be packed at the very last minute without her knowledge!


The Big Day!

When the day finally arrived, I arose early, went for a haircut and got home with half an hour to pack all the secret stuff only to find there was an issue with the heating/air-conditioning system. Spent 15 minutes trying to figure it out (even though I know next to nothing about such matters – that’s just what men do) and then got on the phone to the service company. Anyway, we got a service call scheduled and I managed to get 5 minutes with just me and the bags so I could complete the final packing without giving away the game and we headed off for the airport.

As per prior arrangement, the Air Canada Executive Concierge at the airport (these people are great - one of the few real bonuses of lots of business travel) met me at the curb with a luggage cart (!) and checked in our bags while we went straight to security and into the executive lounge. This bit was essential to ensure that she didn't here the check-in agent proclaim "your bags are checked through to Rome Mr. IMEC".

After a short 2 hour flight, we arrived in Toronto (alas, all seats sold out on the nonstop to Montreal ). As we walked through the domestic terminal, I kept an eye out for a quiet area where we could sit down for a few minutes. Having found a suitable spot, I asked my wife to sit down for a minute and with a grave face, told her there was something I had to tell her and that I needed her to read something. I handed her an envelope with a card on which I wrote some personal remarks and announced the actual destination. Those words now belong to her so I'm not comfortable sharing them but suffice it to say they concluded by stating that we would celebrate my eternal love for her in the Eternal City. O.K., so maybe a bit corny, but I was sincere and she knew it. Her reaction to that moment is both blurry and crystal clear at the same time. We laughed, we cried and she held me tightly for so long, I thought (and half hoped) she would never let go.

We had a wonderful flight to Frankfurt in the front cabin of a brand new 777, had enough time in Frankfurt to shower and change and proceeded to Rome arriving just after lunch. On the Toronto to Frankfurt flight we were fortunate to meet an Italian flight attendant who knew and loved Rome and wrote down a couple of restaurant recommendations which turned out to be great.

[imec]

There are 9 parts to this story/trip report, all in this thread. Please be sure to read them in the correct sequence to ensure coherence. Thanks.

Part 2 - Arrival in Rome:

After a bit of a wait, our bags arrived and we were met just outside the luggage claim area be a friendly representative from RomeCabs who whisked us away to the Rome Cavalieri Hilton on Monte Mario. I knew this was quite a nice hotel, but thought it would be fun to condition Mrs. IMEC to remember that European hotels are not always up to North American standards (hee hee). Well the look on her face when she walked into our Deluxe Executive room with a huge balcony overlooking all of Rome was priceless. We would indeed be comfortable for the next 6 days!

[





One note about the ride to the hotel. Along the freeway, we passed what seemed to be some sort of bus station where someone had graffitied the word BUS on nearly all of about 50 glass panels which ran the length of the structure.This was my first introduction to the infamous graffiti of Rome and frankly I found it hilarious. Graffiti IS everywhere in Rome and you need to try and just accept it. My biggest problem with it was that I couldn't understand most of it. (I did take exception to the actions of the fool who left graffiti on one of the Raphael stanzes at the Vatican (really!).

[imec]

There are 9 parts to this story/trip report all in this thread. Please be sure to read them in the correct sequence to ensure coherence. Thanks.


Part 3 - Day 1:

After unpacking and resting briefly, we had a quick drink in the Executive lounge and caught the Hilton's shuttle bus to Piazza Barberini. We consulted the map and decided we would head toward the Trevi Fountain. We strolled down the little back streets stopping at many of the shops and just generally soaked up the Rome atmosphere. It's really cool how the Trevi fountain just magically appears before you - there are no main approaches to the fountain and you seem to just emerge from and alleyway and there it is. This is the point in many trip reports where the moaning starts about the number of tourists who have the audacity to show up at the fountain at precisely the same time as your visit and then actually hang around there(!). Sorry, my view is if you don't like crowds, then don't go to Rome (or any other major city for that matter). For us, it's the people (locals and visitors alike) who complete the scene and we're just not interested in the sterile, coffee table book view of sites like this - these place were built for people to gather, and gather they do - my advice, gather with them.

We continued our walk and eventually started seeing signs directing us to the Pantheon. (With all the space on travel forums devoted to buses, trams, taxis etc., I was pleasantly surprised to find that many of the major sights are within walking distance of each other). Just as with the Trevi Fountain, you kind of stumble upon the Pantheon - you're walking along a very narrow street, turn a corner and then WOW! there it is, this massive hulk of a building looking every bit as awesome as it did nearly 2000 years ago. This sight was, to me, probably the single most impressive of our visit. Walk up to it and it just gets bigger and better. I'm a big fan of the absurd, so to see this magnificent building and McDonalds sharing the same Piazza was a real treat!

Dinner that evening was very close to the Pantheon at a trattoria recommended by Fodors and reviewed favorably on the Slow Travel site, Antonio al Pantheon. It was a great little place with very friendly service. We shared an antipasto platter and then I had Pappardelle with Black Truffles which was to die for (I smelled truffles as we entered and knew I just had to have them) and Mrs. IMEC had Spaghetti with Cacio e pepe. A nice Chianti Classico accompanied the meal. After a pleasant stroll back to Piazza Barberini we caught a cab back to the hotel.

(I seem to have lost several pics from this evening)

[imec]

There are 9 parts to this story/trip report all in this thread. Please be sure to read them in the correct sequence to ensure coherence. Thanks.

Part 4 - Day 2:

Aside from the morning of our Vatican Museum tour (and our day of departure), we didn't set the alarm and instead enjoyed leisurely mornings in bed followed by coffee (and a glass of Prosecco and fresh orange juice) and a bite to eat in the exec lounge before setting off for what was left of the day. On this day we took the shuttle to Piazza Barberini and then made our way toward the Colosseum and Roman Forum - once again, a pleasant walk, even in the heat.

We stopped for a brief sit down at Trajan's column and then continued on down Via dei Fori Imperiali, marveling at Trajan's 2000 year old “shopping mall” along the way. We spent the afternoon wandering around Palatine Hill and the Roman Forum. Even though neither of us are history buffs, we thoroughly enjoyed this day. Despite the various temples and other buildings in this area being very much in ruin, we found that the whole area came to life when viewed in the context created by Rick Steves tour notes. It is truly moving to wander the same grounds as those famous (infamous?) Roman Emperors - a particular highlight for me being the Temple of Julius Caesar. The heat was blistering but there are several spots in which to grab a bit of shade and fill up the water bottle from a fountain.











After hours of wandering through these fascinating ruins, we figured we'd better get back and have a short rest as we had a big event planned that evening - dinner at La Pergola!!
La Pergola is a rooftop restaurant at the Cavalieri Hilton which has been awarded 3 stars by Michelin (the only 3 star in Rome I believe). I had made the reservation about 2 months prior to ensure we were given one of the best tables. Sure enough, we were seated at a beautiful table right on the edge of the terrace with the most amazing (even better than our own balcony) view of Rome. Mrs. IMEC was a bit confused as to why I suggested she bring a purse when I normally encourage her to not bother. The mystery was solved when, as she was being seated, a small stool was placed next to her chair to accommodate her little bag!

This place is right over the top with respect to luxury and service with such amenities as a water menu and a champagne trolley. The dinner (we both chose the "Gourmet Menu" - a nine course extravaganza showcasing the chef's talent and best available ingredients) was truly amazing and the accompanying wines (chosen by the Sommelier) perfectly matched. The "Grand Dessert" was in fact 7 separate desserts (for each of us!!!) plus a little silver chest with about twelve drawers, in each of which was two petit fours. We arrived at the restaurant at 7:30 and didn't leave until about 11:30 - although the whole event felt like it lasted about an hour and a half. The chef (Heinz Beck) came out to greet us just as we were watching the third (!) fireworks display of the evening. Just when we thought we were done, the waiter delivered a beautiful little cake with a candle and Happy Anniversary in icing! Truly a once in a lifetime experience.

[imec]

There are 9 parts to this story/trip report all in this thread. Please be sure to read them in the correct sequence to ensure coherence. Thanks.


Part 5 - Day 3:


Not completely satisfied with the previous day's immersion into the world of ancient Rome, we headed off to the Colosseum. We had purchased our tickets the day before at Palatine Hill, so we went directly in, feeling awful for the throngs that were not aware of the Palatine ticket office and had spent who knows how long baking in the sun in the ticket line. We had, of course, seen the Colosseum from the outside the day before and had even thought that it may not be all that necessary to spend the time to visit the inside - WRONG! Once we got in, we could not get enough of the place.


As with the Forum, Rick Steves really makes this place come to life and provides loads of information to help you to understand how the building is even more awesome than it appears. If you are going to Rome, please spend the time in this place to really appreciate what an incredible feat of engineering this is and what an extraordinary aspect of Roman culture it represents. We spent the whole afternoon here - far longer than we had anticipated.



We wandered back to Piazza Barberini (we never tired of this walk across Rome) in the late afternoon and caught the shuttle back to the Hilton to clean up and sample the delights of the Cavalieri's executive lounge prior to heading off for dinner.


Following the excesses of the previous evening's dining experience, we were in the mood for something a little simpler. We settled on a little restaurant recommended by a flight attendant on our transatlantic flight - a Tuscan place called Da Mario (on Via della Vite, near the Spanish Steps). We shared a wonderful Antipasto platter which (being a Tuscan place) came with two different preparations of beans which were incredible - we left nary a bean in either bowl. We thought we would share a pasta and then share a secondi, but somewhere between ordering and letting them know who recommended the place, the waiter decided what we would eat.


We had ordered a ravioli stuffed with duck to share but ended up each getting a plate with huge portions of each of the originally ordered pasta plus risotto a la Milanese and some farfalle in a pesto sauce. All of it was fantastic and was washed down with the outstanding house Chianti. We were then treated to giant bowls of the most amazing raspberries ever, topped by fabulous vanilla ice cream (gelato?). A limoncello for each of us rounded out the meal perfectly. Turned out our new found flight attendant friend was well known in the restaurant (the waiter pointed out her picture on the wall!!) and we were given the royal treatment - even being introduced to the owner.


After dinner we walked around a bit and climbed the Spanish Steps. Now I'm not normally one to go for the typical touristy stuff you can find in every tourist destination on earth, but we observed a pencil portrait artist at work at the top of the steps and I absolutely had to get a portrait of my wife. I've seen these guys a million times before and have never been particularly impressed and have lied many times not wanting to hurt the feelings of folks who have proudly showed me their new portraits. This guy was different. We both thought that he was capturing his subjects with a degree of accuracy and sensitivity that we had not seen before by a street artist. Sure enough, it was obvious to others too and soon a line was forming for this one artist while others in the area sat with their pencils still. It was a terrific experience to watch Mrs. IMEC's face come to life on a piece of paper and it seemed like precisely the right thing to be doing on our anniversary trip. So, I'm a tacky tourist - who knew?

[imec]

There are 9 parts to this story/trip report all in this thread. Please be sure to read them in the correct sequence to ensure coherence. Thanks.

Part 6 - Day 4:

Another leisurely morning and some great refreshments in the lounge (think this might have been the day when the tiny, 1 inch tarts with 4 miniature strawberries in each showed up - yum!!) and then we took a cab to St. Peter's. Even though it was around noon, the line for the museums seemed to go on forever so we decided we would try to book a tour for day 6 and spend the afternoon in the Basillica.

I don't know that there's anything I can say about St. Peter's that hasn't been said before. It is truly magnificent - beauty on a scale and of a scope which is surely without equal. We stood on the special spot on the square where Bernini's columns all line up, and then proceeded to security. Was probably about 10-15 minutes to get through the scanner/metal detector line and then headed through the dress code checkpoint and up to the front steps. Everything about this place is big - there are markings on the floor of the front apse which show where other famous churches (e.g. St. Paul's) would end if they were placed in the middle of the church.
There is so much to see here - paintings, mosaics, sculpture - all of it impossibly grand and beautiful. While admiring Bernini's incredible altar, I wished I had brought my iPod loaded up with Christmas carols - it seemed odd not to be hearing them as I usually do while enjoying this view every Christmas eve on TV.

After a thorough tour (aided by Rick Steve's book again - honest I don't work for him or his publisher), we waited in the line (about 1/2 an hour?) to take the lift to the base of the dome. This vantage point offers a great perspective on the size of the building - being able to see how small the people on the floor seem really makes you realize how absolutely enormous the place is.

I then took the 300 odd steps to the top of the dome (Mrs. IMEC stayed back as she was concerned about potential for claustrophobia). It wasn't anywhere near as hard as I thought it would be (even in the 35 degree July heat) and I didn't find it particularly claustrophobic. The views were magnificent, but what I really got a kick out of was what I saw in the stairway on the way down. Now, I'm not suggesting for a minute that it's acceptable to mar this incredible building (or any property that's not yours for that matter) with graffiti, but the reality is, people do and to actually see it is somehow surreal. Even better though was what I found between the inner and outer layers of the dome. There was one spot where I could see a little space where it would appear that workers had abandoned various bits of painting equipment and other debris. Imagine - trash stuffed into the nooks and crannies of Michelangelo's dome!!! I'd love to show him and get his reaction!



The ride back to the hotel produced the only negative experience (but wonderful in it's own bizarre way) of our trip. I should have recognized the signs... the cab driver flirting rather lewdly with a girl on the piazza, the middle front seat folded forward to cover the meter... I thought about asking to see the meter, but decided it would be impolite.

When we got to the hotel, the driver screeched to a halt just as he'd passed the front gate. He "apologized" and asked if we wanted him to back up and drive into the driveway. I told him it was just fine. When he showed me the meter, the fare was more than 50% more than the fare the same distance in the morning and the traffic had been lighter.

Mrs. IMEC exited the cab and I told the driver it was too much and that I was only paying him a similar amount to what I was charged earlier. He objected and proclaimed that this would be a problem for the company. I told him that was all I was paying and he told me to forget the money and go. I got out and offered him the amount (10 Euro) once more. This time he took the 10 Euro bill, tore it up and gave it back to me (still got it - great souvenir!). Price of a trip to St. Peters with tip, 10 Euro. Return trip, great story, free cab ride and a souvenir money couldn't buy, priceless.

For dinner this evening, we once again, followed the recommendation of our Air Canada flight attendant. This time, a Sardinian restaurant, Albino il Sardo in Trastevere. This is a place we would never in a million years have found by ourselves. Up a very quiet back alley just off Piazza Mastai on the very quiet side of Trastevere was this quaint little place with an inviting patio covered by a grape arbor - with not a soul (other than the staff) in sight. It was about 8:15 and feeling comfortable that we had found the right place, informed the waiter we'd be back at 9:00PM. By the time we returned, the place was filling up and by the time we were eating, there was a wait for tables.

Few tourists frequent this place and very little English is spoken or understood. Nevertheless, we were warmly welcomed and we dined well on mixed antipasto and a couple of pastas (one with mushrooms and one with tomato). The house bread is typical Sardinian flatbread - very thin, very crisp with a light bath of olive oil - addictive! The house white was very cheap (6 Euro) and delicious. Limoncello was as good as ever.

Although our food was very good, we couldn't help feeling we had ordered wrong when we saw the parade of dishes being served to the locals - wonderful looking pizzas fresh seafood of all kinds and lots of interesting vegetables and salads. There was nothing else for it, we would have to return.

Just before we left, we struck up a conversation with one of the locals who insisted (it didn't take much insistence) that I try the intriguing looking after dinner libation (BTW - I learned the origin of that word on the Scavi tour) many of them were consuming. It is apparently a traditional Sardinian liqueur, made bay macerating herbs, in particular, Myrtle, in liquor. It is served ice cold (the glass actually frosted up) in small glasses and was fabulous - unfortunately I've been unable to find it back home. otherwise I'd quite happily adopt it as my new after dinner tipple.


Following dinner we had an enjoyable Saturday night stroll through Trastevere and then caught a cab back to Monte Mario.

[imec]

There are 9 parts to this story/trip report all in this thread. Please be sure to read them in the correct sequence to ensure coherence. Thanks.

Part 7 - Day 5:

Now here's a warning. The hard-core tourists among you will be appalled at how we spent most of our Sunday in Rome so you might want to skip ahead to day 6, or at least to tonight's dinner.

After our usual leisurely morning in bed and tour of the executive lounge buffet, we were about to head out when I saw the light and realized that my wife was absolutely right that an afternoon by the lovely pool would be a great way to recharge. Boy, was she right! The Cavalieri Hilton is somewhat of a resort with absolutely gorgeous grounds and a really nice pool (the one indoors is very pretty too, with a fireplace right beside it - must be great on a cool winter's day). The pool attendant found us a nice spot in the garden and set up two loungers for us.

We spent a blissful three hours soaking up the sun, cooling off with dips in the pool, reading and getting reacquainted with my iPod. I'd had the same song playing in my head since our flight here - Hummingbird by Wilco - so this was a chance to replace the soundtrack in my brain. Turns out though that not even the latest Arcade Fire or Tori Amos or even some old stuff I found couldn't get Jeff Tweedy out of my little grey cells. Oh well, Wilco is a great band and Hummingbird a great song (which I hope they do when we see them live next week - edited to add, the concert was cancelled due to illness - rats!) - very Beatlesque in my opinion, could have been an outtake from the white album that Jeff and company reworked - please check it out if you enjoy great modern music.



As we had vowed to do the previous night, we returned to Da Albino il Sardo al Angelletto for Sunday dinner (they're closed Mondays I believe). This night we started with a big bowl of excellent Vongole and followed that with an outstanding pizza with fiori. Then came the small whole grilled (roasted?) fish (could have been Turbot) and a side of roasted potatoes. The fish was succulent and the potatoes were the tastiest I can remember having anywhere - impossibly sweet and savory at once. 3 star restaurants notwithstanding, this was my favorite meal of the trip. We had the refreshing white house wine again and finished up with a couple of Mirto's - each!

[imec]

There are 9 parts to this story/trip report all in this thread. Please be sure to read them in the correct sequence to ensure coherence. Thanks.

Part 8 - Day 6:

Where did the time go? Hard to believe it is our last full day in Rome. Having a booking for a 9:15 tour of the Vatican Museums, we actually got up early enough to sample the breakfast in the lounge - excellent with a variety of cold meats and cheeses, fresh baked breads and pastries plus bacon and the creamiest scrambled eggs I can remember having in a long time.

Our tour was booked with Rome-Museum - not one of those allegedly dodgy "unguided tours" but an actual guided tour. It was not particularly in-depth but lasted about two and a half hours and covered the highlights and, most importantly, let us avoid the line - exactly what we wanted. We toured a number of the courtyards and sculptures, the Raphael rooms, the hall of maps, a room full of fabulous tapestries and finally the Sistine Chapel. The whole thing was incredible - really too much to appreciate properly, kind of like sitting down to table full of caviar, fois gras and truffles and just shoveling it all in - how much of it do you really taste? Having said that, I wouldn't have missed it for anything!

The Sistine Chapel really blew me away - the 3D quality to the work is mesmerizing - and to think the poor guy did such incredible work in undoubtedly the most uncomfortable position imaginable and with only natural light!! I imagine the experience is ruined for some by the size of the crowds and the security personnel's constant clapping and shushing. For me, the crowds seemed to just disappear as I stood in one spot at a time gazing into the magical scenes above while unable to contain myself from laughing at the absurdity of the guards trying to silence hundreds of people enjoying one of the most wondrous sights of their lives "clap, clap, Silencio! Silencio" - utterly preposterous (and yes, I do realize it's a place of worship but there didn't appear to be shortage of such venues locally).



We then had another quick peak inside the basilica (how could you walk past and not go in?) and took a couple more pictures before we set of for lunch and a bit of shopping. Lunch was a couple of slices of Pizza rustica as we walked along a tree lined street. We're pizza aficionado's, loving every form of pizza known to man - thick, thin, round, square, New York, Chicago, California, you name it. Often during the day we grabbed a piece or two of Pizza al Taglia or Pizza Rustica (are they different? We couldn't tell.). On this particular occasion, they folded the pizza and wrapped it in paper, open at one end. What a perfect way to eat pizza while on the move and tasty as all get-out.

With full shopping bags (two leather bags for my wife and a pile of dried pasta, balsamico, limoncello, beans and chocolate) we then headed back to St. Peter's, checked our bags at the free bag check and reported to the office (after receiving permission from the Swiss Guards) for our 3:15 Scavi tour. Had I not frequented a Rome travel forum, I would have known nothing of this opportunity (one of many gems I mined from the travel forums). I can't express how thankful we were to learn about and to be accepted for this special experience.

Touring this little "village of the dead" underneath the basilica was a singular experience. I can't put into words the feeling one gets walking through this little "town" of mausoleums where people place their loved ones so many years ago. And to think that for 1500 years the whole thing was buried in dirt, makes it that much more fascinating. I learned that the word "libation" or "libazione" in Italian, I believe, was derived from the practice of providing food to the dead through a special tube into the mausoleums while the families were picnicking on the site. It was also very interesting to see parts of the foundation of the original church.

The actual "relics of St. Peter" were a bit of a let down as you really can't see anything but a very small plexiglass box with what are said to be what's left of St. Peter's bones inside. To be fair, this part of the tour seemed to be rather moving for the believers. Following the Scavi tour we had a quick peak at the tombs of the popes.

For our final dinner in Rome we followed another Slow Travel recommendation and dined at Osteria ar Galleto (also called Da Giovani) in Piazza Farnesse. This piazza is very quiet in comparison to the nearby Piazza Navonna and Campo di Fiori and the restaurant seemed very popular with the locals.

Once again we arrived without a reservation but we found that most places were o.k. as long as you didn't arrive too much after 8:00PM. We were seated at a nice little table just outside the front door and within about 20 minutes all table were occupied. We shared a plate of Prosciutto and a small plate of Fiori Fritti - in a wonderfully delicate, grease free batter. We decided to skip the pasta this evening and I had Scottadito and Mrs. IMEC had Vittelo al limone - both were o.k. but once again the people around us seemed to have better fare - I'm convinced the right way to dine in Italy is to put yourself in the hands of the waiter/cook and see what comes out. We enjoyed a bottle of Morrelino di Scansano throughout and finished it with some reggiano. To close, we both had Grappa - funny, I'd never enjoyed the stuff until this moment.

We walked back to Piazza Barberini (we considered this the perfect end point for many walks across this part of Rome and I always feel comfortable getting a cab in front of a decent hotel), passing several of our favorite landmarks (Pantheon, Trevi Fountain...) and stopping a couple of times to buy “designer goods” at astonishingly low prices . A final Limoncello on the balcony and we laid our heads down in Rome for one last time.

[imec]

There are 9 parts to this story/trip report all in this thread. Please be sure to read them in the correct sequence to ensure coherence. Thanks.

Part 9 - Arrivederci Roma

The alarm rang far too soon and before long we were in a lovely big Mercedes (RomeCabs) on our way to Leonardo da Vinci Airport. Rome surpassed my every expectation (and of course, Mrs. IMEC had no expectations other than some very good smoked meat sandwiches in Montreal). We'll be back!

A few notes:

Examples of the value of travel forums:


1. We would never have dreamed of drinking water out of a pipe sticking out of a wall.

2. We may not have seen the inside of the Colosseum had I not known of the alternate ticket booth at Palatine hill.

3. Would not have known of the Scavi tour.

4. Pointed me to many other useful sources of information.

5. In general, saved me loads of time by providing a sound collection of knowledge ahead of arrival.


The (potential) downside to travel forums (and too much research in general):

1. Too much knowledge sometimes means trying to pack in too many sights and activities. I suggest make your list, pick out the most important 2 thirds of them and put the remainder on a second list ONLY to be used if everything on the first list is completed. As well, the urge to develop and execute a detailed and rigid itinerary should be suppressed - enjoy your trip, don't make it a challenging project.

2. Some things tend to be overblown - most notably the gypsy thing. I have no doubt there are gypsies (and others) in Rome who make a living picking pockets or running scams of some sort. But any impression that they are everywhere (and that you should "arm" yourself accordingly - all this money belt nonsense for instance) should be immediately banished. The vast majority of visitors to Rome are not victims of these incidents (dog bites man) unfortunately, the exceptions (man bites dog) take front page space on this forum too frequently - yes it happens, no it doesn't happen to everyone. For our part, in the six days we were there (and we were at most of the major tourist spots) we didn't see even the slightest hint of such activity (goofy gladiators, flower sellers, picture takers notwithstanding).

3. Counting on the "norm" and getting burned. For example, my inclination was to book a Vatican tour to avoid the line but initially didn't as it appeared from most reports that the line was gone by around noon or 1:00PM. My experience was dramatically different - huge line. Luckily, I was able to still book a tour and skip the line on our last day. Lesson - have an alternate plan in case your don't experience "the normal situation".


10 things I'll never forget about this trip:

1. Walking around a corner and coming face to face with the Pantheon.

2. Sitting on pieces of marble lying around in the Forum which were cut 2000 years ago.

3. Bus, Bus, Bus, Bus, Bus....

4. Sorry, this one's way too personal (and would probably violate the forum's TOCs) but it has to be on the list.

5. Standing right next to the very spot Julius Caesar was cremated.

6. The cool clear water flowing from a spigot on the sidewalk.

7. Realizing that I'd become so accustomed to it, that I'd just walked past the Trevi fountain without looking at it.

8. Silencio! Silencio!!

9. A street artist capturing the look of the woman I've spent most of my life with after only drawing her right eye.

10. That hug in the Toronto airport.

[bixaorellana]

*sniffle*

BRAVO, Imec! That was really, really beautiful, readable, enjoyable, and touching. Except that I read it on a monitor, I would say, "I couldn't put it down!"

This was such an easy report to follow, also. I do have some questions, but am glad it's stuff you did not address in the body of the story.

When you have time, could you do an explanation of the Colliseum -- maybe with a re-post of one of the pictures so we could refer to it? I'd really like to know what all those nooks and crannies and arches held. Was the big part in the center beneath a floor of some kind?

Well, I can wait on that, as I'm sure there will be lots of comments and interesting questions for you after this wonderful trip you shared with us.

Thanks!

[imec]

In the last picture of the Colosseum, you can see a partial floor made of wood on the far side. The floor covered the whole area when the stadium was actually in use. Beneath the floor was a series of corridors, cages and so on in which various animals (lions, bears etc.) were prepared for the "show". The floor had several "trap doors" which were opened to allow animals which were raised to floor level on primitive elevators to access the floor level to provide additional challenges to the unwitting gladiators (the trap doors were hidden behind screens so the poor guys never knew what was coming next). Good clean fun eh?

A series of small holes near the top of the stadium walls were used to hold long wooden poles which supported a canopy which could be adjusted according to the position of the sun. It was essentially the worlds first "skydome". Absolutely amazing when you consider all this was built nearly 2000 years ago...

[bixaorellana]

I never had any idea it was so elaborate inside, although I guess all those movies are based on something!

Hope this isn't too presumptuous, but -- Mrs. Imec is a raving beauty. Wow! You all are an extremely handsome couple. I imagine the romantic Romans were quite taken with y'all and your very romantic anniversary.

[spindrift]

Imec - I've read half of your wonderful essay. It has given me such pleasure. I'll leave the other half until later so that I can look forward to it.

First of all - you and your lovely wife make a gorgeous couple. She looks far too young to have been married for 25 years! I can imagine how difficult it was for you to keep the trip secret whilst you were arranging it. I can also picture her delight (and that hug) when you told her where you were going! She must have fallen in love with you all over again at that moment.

Your room in the Cavalieri Hilton was superb, especially as it had a view over old Rome. And you had 6 days there so you could really enjoy it. I love your pics of the Forum and the Colosseum. It is amazing to think of what took place in the arena nearly 2,000 years ago!

Thank you for posting this treat!

[lagatta]

I was suitably impressed by the Colosseum but preferred Trajan's Market (several levels of shopping streets devoted to various goods) which provided a closer look at Romans' everyday lives. Did you get to Via Appia outside the city centre?

My Roman friends are always amused by tourists snapping photos of "the typewriter" as Romans call the Vittorio-Emanuele monument, a rather pompous turn-of-the-last-century monument that foreshadows all manner of dubious "art of the regime", whatever the regime. (That is the big white wedding-cake thing).

Pssst, it's "silenzio". "Silencio" in Spanish.

There is utterly no reason to feel that one must be constantly touring when in a city; you did well to simply relax and enjoy yourselves as well. My longest stay in Rome was very different (though it did actually involve a romantic interlude, though in the end this "storia" - a friend of my thesis adviser's - was not to prove a lasting love). I was staying in a little flat - a tiny studio with a HUGE terrasse, in the Gianicolo neighbourhood in the hills above Trastevere, so somewhat outside the touristed areas (except for the view from the Janiculum) but not far from it by bus or downhill on foot. Sure I visited lots of stuff - though my Roman friends, ardent secularists, felt strange visiting ancient churches. But we also enjoyed an espresso or glass of wine, depending on the hour, at cafés, chatted, walked in parks and hung out, and I spent some days simply wandering around the neighbourhood where I was staying and looking at contemporary Roman life, or sunning myself on the rooftop terrace and reading the many books friends had given me, and painting.

I almost never managed to eat the Rio Mare sardines packed in olive oil that I like so much, as Rome is home to many stray cats. One in particular, who was heavily pregnant, got more than one tin. Many people, especially pensioners, feed the stray cats: they are known as gattare (women) and gattari (men).

I miss bidets - just about all dwellings and hotel rooms have them in Italy. Silly how such banal details are memories, but in the heat it is so nice to keep really clean.

Did we have to take our passports on domestic flights then? I always did, as it is the best i.d. (I don't have a driving licence), but you had to make sure la Signora Imec had her documents in order. Did the kids stay with grandparents?

[imec]

lagatta, the Typewriter is truly ridiculous as you say - it's gaudy, incongruous, a multitude of sins. And why did Rome with all its true grandeur need it anyway? Pomposity at its most grotesque.

Yes, the kids stayed with my Mum - or my Mum came and stayed with them - probably a combination of the two.

And, sorry to make you more "homesick", but I thought you'd like this...

[Deleted]

I finally got home and was able to read this fantastic report. I used to go to Rome about 3 times a year, and you saw a number of things that I never did.

I remember writing home when I first visited Rome when I was 17 "there are 10 times more things to see here than in Paris" and I still feel that way.

Can you imagine that I have not been to Rome in about 15 years even though I can fly there free of charge whenever I want?

Your report is making me kick myself.

[Deleted]

Thanks for the report on your wonderful anniversary in Rome, imec. And the perfect place to have it, such a romantic city.

Your wife is so pretty.

[lagatta]

È vero; la signora Imec è molto bella. And imec strapping goodlooking fella.

kerouac, by plane it is a short trip you could do on a weekend. I'd go for a slightly extended weekend, as I don't like just arriving somewhere and turning around - too much like a business trip - but it would be a good trip when you have "un pont".

One of my favourite songs about Rome is "Via Margutta" - yes, there are cats involved, but also young lovers in perillous trysts in wartime. Via Margutta was a traditional artists' colony street.



Via Margutta

Sta cadendo la notte
sopra i tetti di Roma
tra un gatto che ride e un altro che sogna
di fare l'amore.
Sta cadendo la notte
senza fare rumore
sta passando una stella
sui cortili di Roma
e un telefono squilla
nessuno risponde
a una radio che parla
e' vicina la notte
sembra di accarezzarla.

Amore vedessi
com'e' bello il cielo
a via Margutta questa sera
a guardarlo adesso
non sembra vero che sia lo stesso cielo
dei bombardamenti, dei pittori,
dei giovani poeti e dei loro amori
consumati di nascosto
in un caffe'.

Amore vedessi
com'e' bello il cielo
a via Margutta insieme a te
a guardarlo adesso
non sembra vero che sia lo stesso cielo
che ci ha visto soffrire
che ci ha visto partire
che ci ha visto.

Scende piano la notte
sui ricordi di Roma
c'e' una donna che parte
e un uomo che corre
forse vuole fermarla
si suicida la notte
non so come salvarla.

Amore vedessi
com'e' bello il cielo
a via Margutta questa sera
a guardarlo adesso
non sembra vero che sia lo stesso cielo
dell'oscuramento e dei timori
dei giovani semiti e dei loro amori
consumati di nascosto in un caffe'.

Amore sapessi com'era il cielo
a Roma qualche tempo fa
a guardarlo adesso
non sembra vero che sia lo stesso cielo
la stessa citta'
che ci guarda partire volerci bene
che ci guarda lontani
e poi di nuovo insieme
prigionieri di questo cielo
di questa citta'
che ci ha visto soffrire
che ci ha visto partire
che ci ha visto.
Si suicida la notte
non so come salvarla

[lola]

Beautiful, Imec. Thanks!

[hwinpp]

A nice walk down memory lane, Imec.

I went to Rome just once, with my school class. The thing I kick myself for was that a friend and I, sharing one tent, missed the trip to Pompeij. Don't ask why!

[imec]

lagatta, you like cats? We passed by a Roman ruin on the walk back from Trastevere which was also some sort of cat sanctuary...

[auntieannie]

You made my eyes mist up, Imec!

Rome is such a wonderful place; I would like to visit it again soon.

[lagatta]

That is the famous Largo Argentina cat sanctuary. There has been a stray cat colony there for decades, but now there is a team of volunteers including vets who neuter the cats and try to find homes for adoptable ones; the rest are living in the Largo or the shelter (cats with special needs). I took the bus up the hill to my flat in Gianicolo - above Trastevere at that square. There was also a very nice "Tavola calda" there - like a cafeteria or buffet but more pleasant than that would imply; very nice spot for a casual lunch if it is still there and still as pleasant. The Largo is not named for the country of Argentina (as one might think, given that country's huge Italian population), but for the old Roman settlement of Argentoratum, currently the Alsatian city Strasbourg. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Largo_di_Torre_Argentina

The cat sanctuary: www.romancats.com/

There is also a famous theatre facing the square, Teatro Argentina.

You are asking if lagatta likes cats?

Mine is a black tom named Renzo. He had a harrowing adventure late in the autumn - ran away on Halloween and didn't return until the 6th of December, the first bitterly cold day. Was almost starved. 13 years old; never thought I'd see my old pal again.

[Deleted]

Thank you for sharing a very beautiful and touching memory with us. Rome is the perfect place for such a romantic tale and you chose everything well.
I hope you hang on to this to share with your children and grandchildren down the line.
The pictures are simply gorgeous however, the narrative says so much more.
Thanks again.

[livaco]

What a great story, imec, and wonderful pictures.

And congrats on 25 years of marriage! (I will be coming up to the 25 year mark soon.)

[Yvonne]

What a lovely report. Quite a change from Winnipeg, eh?
Yes, you are a good looking, happy looking couple.

[imec]

We spent 5 days in London on the way home to "decompress".