(Egypt 4 – Jan 29) I'll try to have a walk past the Oasis cafe, as Mark suggests.
Out hotel in Luxor is the Oasis. A short way down our side street is the Nubian Oasis Hotel. and there is confusion and bad blood between them. We are truly grateful to be where we are because the other hotel had the equivalent of a Western marquee - vast colourful canvas sheets - put over the street exactly where the hotel entrance is.
We naturally went to find out what this meant. It was the anniversary of someone's death and there was to be a memorial service with readings from the Koran and - if we understood correctly - some memorial talk for each year of his life. We are worried in case he lived to a ripe old age and we shan't sleep. But pity the folks who are suffering in the other hotel. As I write this the loudspeakers are blaring...
We walked down to the Nile and went along the Corniche this afternoon. The change was dramatic. Here at our hotel we are in a district where locals live. People greet us. Children ask our names. There are no touts. Five minutes away there are men hustling their taxis, caleches, feluccas and watches. For pity's sake, who buys a Rolex from a street seller in Egypt? As AuntieAnnie knows, it is a criminal offence to wear a fake Rolex in Switzerland.