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Post by Jazz on May 18, 2010 4:23:30 GMT
This is simply a glimpse of two of the champagne houses, but it was a rich and sensual day and I will never forget it. I had wanted to do this trip for a long time and decided to take a tour. It was expensive as opposed to doing it alone, but I knew that I would probably get lost and I was in the mood to share the experience. The night before I had been out until 2AM. Four hours of sleep later, I caught the metro, got off at the wrong stop, panicked, but eventually found the bus. The day was grey and drizzling in Paris. Somehow I couldn't imagine walking in the vinyards with an umbrella. I was one of the three people awake and was eager to see this part of the French countryside. The countryside was rather flat and boring, northern Ontario looked spectacular compared to this. We then arrived at the caves of Piper-Heidsieck in Reims. There was a lovely building near the entrance and I was filled with anticipation. We entered, descended a level, and then waited tediously, 4 people x4 people to jump into a little 'cart' to take us on the tour. Finally I sat myself in the cart and off we went. Does Disney hold shares here? As we twirled around, we saw many fake plasticenne bunches of grapes and cupids. Oh my god. Finally it ended and the only good thing was that we (voraciously, blind with boredom) downed 2-3 glasses of champagne. You must remember that we are all non-French, it was 10-30-11:30AM and in North American parlance we were "drinking in the morning’. We exited into a beautiful day and journeyed onwards to the cathedral of Reims, dignified, exquisite and soaring into the sky. We tottered in and bravely listened to our guide droning on. Remember, most of us had little sleep, no breakfast and 3 glasses of champagne. He then uttered the magic words, "Lunch Break". Looking about the main square, I saw the chosen cafe. Given that it looked onto the cathedral, I knew that this would be expensive, but I was a tad hungry, somewhat drunk and it was a day of days, exquisite with a turquoise sky and hot yellow sun. Within 5 minutes I was seated on the patio of the old café, basking in the sun. Lunch was simple and delicious......Pate de foie gras, une salade verte, tarte tatin, un coupe de champagne et un café. The most beautiful time was about to unfold. We drove for abour an hour to the caves of the house of Moet and Chandon at Epernay. We stopped often and spent time in the vinyards, rich and satisfying. The acres and acres of vines were breathtaking. to be continued... |
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Post by fumobici on May 18, 2010 6:22:25 GMT
The vineyards look so lush compared to typical Californian or Italian vineyards. I got drug around to a lot of Napa and Sonoma wineries when I was a kid and even though I couldn't taste the product, there is always some almost tangible magic at any outstanding winery.
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Post by Jazz on May 18, 2010 8:46:02 GMT
L’Avenue de Champagne is the most prestigious street in the town of Epernay and is a part of the Royal road. The avenue began to flourish in the early 18th century with the increasing desire for champagne. Some of the greatest champagne houses are located there, Moet & Chandon, Perrier-Jouet, Pol Roger…’ 'Residents say that this avenue is the most expensive in the world, more so than the Champs-Élysées in Paris, because of the millions of bottles of champagne stored in the kilometres of chalk cellars beneath it.’ We drove slowly and soon arrived at our destination, Moet & Chandon. It has existed since 1743 and the original building has changed little. It was one of the smaller mansions on the avenue and had a welcoming small courtyard. Perhaps we were dreading a repetition of the morning's "ditzing", but the quiet dignity and beauty of the exterior put us at ease. We were shown into a tasting room, given a brief introduction to the house and graciously offered a glass of champagne. The next two hours were spent in the caves. We walked and walked and walked, deeper and deeper, an unforgettable tour of how champagne is made, in each of the various stages. The stone cellars were magnificent! I recall looking back at the miles of arched stone ceilings and thinking how much it looked like a cathedral. (perhaps the result of the 3 glasses in the morning, followed by a glass at lunch?) The details do not matter, the essential memory does.........rich and beautiful. |
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Post by Jazz on May 18, 2010 11:04:14 GMT
The vineyards look so lush compared to typical Californian or Italian vineyards. I got drug around to a lot of Napa and Sonoma wineries when I was a kid and even though I couldn't taste the product, there is always some almost tangible magic at any outstanding winery. There really is a kind of magic, fumobici. These vineyards were incredibly lush (was there mid september) but I'm surprised about the California vineyards. I have seen some recent photos and they look wonderful, maybe it's because you haven't been there since you were 'drugged around'  as a little boy? These aren't mine, but here are some photos of the same area later in the fall, |
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Post by bixaorellana on May 18, 2010 13:53:53 GMT
This is so interesting, Jazz, and so extremely beautiful.
One practicality you made real was the vastness of the storage areas. Vast, yet fairly small in comparison to the market's desire for the product. Seeing the cellars and the vineyards brought home the fact that champagne, time-honored and world-renowned though it may be, is still something which can't be hurried nor made in any larger quantity. Really, factoring in the vagaries of weather and the skills of all the workers involved, it can still be considered an "artisanal" product.
Your photos are wonderful and you make the trip come alive, even the uncomfortable buzz of too-early drinking on an empty stomach. I love the way you caught the golden light of early autumn.
That brings me to a question. This is all so green and burgeoning and fits in with photos that I've seen of vineyards in other places. However, Fumobici's characterization of other vineyards as less lush also fits. Wouldn't mid-September feature the culmination of summer's growth before the fading of autumn set in?
Whatever ~~ this is a gorgeous visit you gave us, beautifully presented.
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Post by greyghost1 on May 18, 2010 16:34:36 GMT
How lovely to 'see' two more houses. And to see it when it is green. We wnet in March and saw lots of brown twig bushes.
We also took a tour and we visited Mercier via a tram. Not near as interesting IMO as walking the cellars.
We enjoyed Tattinger...an excellent tour and guide.
Thanks for the view.
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Post by lola on May 19, 2010 1:23:47 GMT
Wonderful, Jazz. It really takes me there. Vendange time, I guess, and the shirtless guys were temp workers? I had no idea they could fill a cave so full.
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Post by Jazz on May 19, 2010 9:54:19 GMT
Thanks you all. Bixa, I think that mid-September would be the optimum harvest time, but this would vary with different years and climates. This particular September it was very warm and sunny with highs of 24-26. As we walked through the cellars of Moet & Chandon, we kept walking down and down. What is below the surface is amazing. I read somewhere that below street level, there are 110km of these cellars in Epernay. Greyghost, I agree that it is much more intriguing to walk the cellars. Probably two houses is all that it’s good to visit in one day. It sounds like you very much enjoyed Tattinger. The whole vineyard experience would be so different in March, one day I hope you see them in leaf. Lola, not sure if the shirtless guys were temps, it was very hot and this was at a stop in the fields of a small champagne house. This is an excellent site that I found and within it you can access the websites of all the houses in Champagne. There is one page that is all about champagne in art ie: one page of the art page is devoted to photos of vintage postcards. www.maisons-champagne.com/traduction/english/limach_gb.htmmmm…Greyghost, did you have a ‘snack’ at the Caveau Bacchus at Mercier? |
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Post by greyghost1 on May 19, 2010 15:52:06 GMT
Jzz, Oh My! That's a stunner....and no, guess we missed it...maybe it would add to the cost of a tour |
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Post by Deleted on May 20, 2010 10:02:54 GMT
This is a real treat Jazz,the photos are stunning and really do transport one there...I had no idea of the extent of this production. And all so beautiful,from the lush,lush vegetation to the gorgeous old buildings and structures. Clearly,all still done in old world style.
Thank you for this. How long ago was this Jazz?
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Post by Deleted on May 21, 2010 18:31:58 GMT
Since I am not a fan of champagne, it never crossed my mind to visit the cellars. However, the last time that my brother and sister-in-law visited, she wanted to see a cellar, so we went to Tattinger in Reims.
The tour was very interesting and I'm glad that I went, but I would not return spontaneously; once was enough for me, although I wouldn't mind accompanying other first timers.
I was much happier the day I went on the Chartreuse tour in the south of France.
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Post by bixaorellana on May 22, 2010 16:13:50 GMT
Jazz, do you have any photos of Reims, or are you perhaps saving them for a different thread?
Isn't it the cathedral in Reims that has the Chagall windows?
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Post by imec on May 22, 2010 16:18:10 GMT
Oh I missed this! Real nice Jazz! (and to my mind, Champagne is a most civilized morning beverage)
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Post by Deleted on May 22, 2010 16:50:36 GMT
Isn't it the cathedral in Reims that has the Chagall windows? Reims has three, Metz has three. |
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Post by fumobici on May 22, 2010 17:35:21 GMT
Go Metz!
Sorry.
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Post by Deleted on May 22, 2010 18:20:02 GMT
Actually, there is a church (not a cathedral) elsewhere in France with no fewer than 8 Chagall windows.
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Post by fumobici on May 22, 2010 20:00:07 GMT
According to wikipedia, All Saints' Church, Tudeley, UK has 12.
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Post by Jazz on May 23, 2010 14:54:05 GMT
Oh I missed this! Real nice Jazz! (and to my mind, Champagne is a most civilized morning beverage)and to my mind, as well Casimira, I was there in 2005. We spent little time in Reims, the cathedral and then lunch, so I just have these few photos, |
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Post by bixaorellana on May 23, 2010 15:05:33 GMT
That first shot is really wonderful. Were you kneeling to get that angle? It's most effective.
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Post by gusm on May 26, 2010 4:25:04 GMT
Jazz - great post. I am going to Mancy/Epernay/Reims in, lets see, 36 days. After seeing your photos, I am even more anxious.
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Post by Jazz on May 27, 2010 20:07:39 GMT
Gusm, I think that you will find a day of Champagne very pleasurable. First the lush vineyards, then the cool and refreshing cellars, with a reviving glass of champagne. I noticed in the book thread that you are reading, The Widow Clicquot, by Tilar Mazzeo…it’s a great read. The house of Veuve-Clicquot is where I would like to go next. After I came home, I discovered that it houses a rather remarkable historical library, with books of their business transactions and original labels for each year since the beginning, 1793. Mme. Clicquot’s country house is tempting, but only for special VIP visitors (pas moi), Manoir de Verzy, The library, with a painting of the foxy lady herself, And, the champagne bottle I have and love the most, which was only issued in one year, it seems 'hand painted' in real life. Enjoy your trip. |
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Post by gusm on Jun 3, 2010 4:18:31 GMT
Jazz -thanks for the further inspiration! I have read that Clicquot has an extensive library/records centre. This will be my third trip to the area, but this time I get to spend more time outside of Reims, plus two stages of the TdF!! This is going to be a long month...
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Post by bixaorellana on Nov 5, 2013 19:00:40 GMT
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as a little boy? These aren't mine, but here are some photos of the same area later in the fall,
