|
Post by Deleted on Apr 4, 2011 19:50:57 GMT
Anybody familiar with a map of Paris knows that it is pretty much egg-shaped, because it has grown out in circles over the years. One of the "oddities" of the city is the ring of the boulevards des Maréchaux, so named because each boulevard bears the name of a Maréchal of Napoléons 'First Empire.' These were -- believe it or not -- seven star generals. I should also point out the tragic detail that Paris was apparently not big enough, because the First Empire had 26 maréchaux, but only 19 got their names on one of the boulevards circling Paris. Anyway, the names are not important, unless you want to appear on a French quiz show some day, where the question regularly arises. (“Give the name of 5 maréchaux of the 1st empire.”) What is important is that the boulevards were created in the 1920's after the military fortifications built in 1840 were dismantled. The actual city limits are on average about 150 meters further out and are occupied by the périphérique expressway, creating a new obstacle to protect Paris from outsiders. Thankfully, large parts of it are finally being buried. Sorry, back to the subject. I wanted to follow the T3 tramway line from its starting point to its terminus – but even more than that because it is currently being extended around half of the city. This is replacing the bus line that was circling the city – irregular and overcrowded. The tramway offers much more space and greater speed. (The cities of the world were so stupid in the 30’s, 40’s and 50’s to close down almost every tramway line in surrender to the reign of the automobile!). It is very expensive to build now and creates a huge mess, as you will see a bit farther on. So, the T3 begins at the Seine, at the same place where I left you on the Unrecognizable Paris thread, in front of the France Télévisions headquarters. The bridge there is called the Pont de Garigliano, and that is the name of the first tram station. There is not much to see at first, but there will be in a few years, because there is a huge empty area (former industrial zone), where the new Ministry of Defense is going to be consolidated, instead of being spread over about a dozen different sites. The media like to call it the “French Pentagon” which gets patriotic politicians screaming instantly. The first major thing along the route is the Porte de Versailles, the location of the principal exhibition center of Paris for trade shows, the former principal sports arena. The Palais des Sports is now used mostly for high budget musicals that need to seat 3000+ people). A bigger sports arena, the Palais Omnisports at Bercy replaced it about 20 years ago. In any case, since last year, a connection with the T2 tramway line that wanders to Porte de Versailles from La Défense, following mostly a converted abandoned commuter train line. The name of the current spectacle at the Palais des Sports by the popular French comedienne Florence Foresti probably surprises a certain number of English speaking passersby. More coming soon… too much more…
|
|
|
Post by bjd on Apr 4, 2011 19:58:10 GMT
Toulouse lost its street cars in the 1950s-60s too. Now they are building some new lines, but not where the old ones ran.
It's nice that they have put grass under the streetcar tracks in Paris. They did that in Bordeaux too.
|
|
|
Post by Deleted on Apr 4, 2011 20:09:40 GMT
I kept hopping on and off the T3, but just after Porte de Versailles, I encountered this huge church in classic 1930's style. I decided that it required an inspection. Actually, it did not seem unpleasant, even though there was nothing historic or fabulously artistic about it. What was strange was that the church was abandoned, although not really. Off on one side, a little room had been built and a mass was in progress for the small number of faithful. I guess they feel less lonely in a smaller space. If the church had been too expensive to heat, it would have made perfect sense, but the big part where I was was perfectly well heated on this cold day. There was a book to thank the more efficient saints for their interventions. Okay, that was enough religion for the moment, so back out onto the street. Here is a major engineering school. One thing that the tramway makes noticeable is "wires in the sky." Every single wire is buried in Paris except for the tramway wires.
|
|
|
Post by bixaorellana on Apr 4, 2011 23:40:08 GMT
Oh, Kerouac -- this is so interesting! You spoke truly when you pointed out the bone-headed short-sightedness of cities which removed a popular and efficient form of transportation in the last century.
That tram line looks densely populated. Imagine the pollution and noise if those were buses puffing up the inclines.
I'm glad you felt compelled to click away in the church. The interior could have been built yesterday, except for the floors and that wonderful deco design.
I had to laugh at the intentions book. It's officially for St. Antoine, and one person's handwriting, plus my inability to read French, makes it look as though Tony is being addressed.
But back to design details. Was the engineering school built back in the '20s? It looks to be a beautiful example of that era and sports that very elegant 20s type font. And was the former sports arena from that time period as well?
|
|
|
Post by hwinpp on Apr 5, 2011 1:52:55 GMT
I know that line!
Used to use it to get from the expo grounds to Chinatown in the 13th, correct?
|
|
|
Post by Deleted on Apr 5, 2011 5:10:45 GMT
Bixa, in the intentions book, the Tony in question is a different person from St. Anthony since the request is to "protect Tony, who is ill, to recover his health." More poignant, a little lower on the page is "happy birthday to my brother Jean whom I have not seen for 30 years."
Both the church and the engineering school were built in the 20's and 30's, like just about everything on the "outside" of the Maréchaux. More about that later. However, the Palais des Sports is much more recent. It was built in 1960 in the Buckminster Fuller style.
HW, yes, that is the tram line that goes to Chinatown. My report will pass through there.
|
|
|
Post by tod2 on Apr 5, 2011 14:19:52 GMT
This is a wonderful insight into the parts of Paris I much prefer to visit - I LOVE the Tramways!
|
|
|
Post by bixaorellana on Apr 5, 2011 15:43:36 GMT
Thanks, Kerouac. That is a poignant entry you translated, making me wonder if even non-religious people might not make use of the notebook, simply because they have to verbalize something private and painful.
Also thanks for the info on the sports arena. I did see the dome, but wondered if it had been grafted onto an older structure.
Looking forward to more of this ride, please.
|
|
|
Post by mich64 on Apr 5, 2011 17:52:36 GMT
I too like the grass on the lines, I was not sure that it was grass or a patina of sorts if the base had been metal. I did not know that all lines were buried in Paris, but once I thought about it, I could not remember seeing any! Being this is T3 tram, is there a T1 and T2, if so what directions or areas are they in? Very interesting report and I want to ride one when we come to Paris. There is a Tram line in Toronto that I have never rode on either, should do that as well some time in my life.
Thank you Kerouac for giving your time to show us so many interesting facts about Paris. It is generous of you and appreciated. Cheers, Mich
|
|
|
Post by bjd on Apr 5, 2011 18:06:44 GMT
Mich, there are several streetcar lines in Toronto. I always make a point of taking them since I can't do so at home.
|
|
|
Post by Deleted on Apr 5, 2011 18:09:30 GMT
Back on the tram for a few more stops. It must be admitted that the outer ring of Paris is not the most picturesque. Out in this area were all factories, warehouses and empty lots 40 or 50 years ago. When other things started being built, many of the rules that hold sway in central Paris were abandoned, for example, according to the rules from 1884, "no buildings over 20 meters tall." But in 1967, the rules were changed to allow 31 meters in the center and 37 meters in the periphery. We will see major exceptions later. Hey, a Picard frozen food supermarket at this stop! At Porte de Vanves, it is time to go under the Montparnasse train tracks. Oh, I didn’t know this was here – the Concorde pornographic supermarket. It’s pretty discreet from the outside, but I’m sure its fans know exactly where it is. One of the main attractions of the outer rim is the endless string of the former “HBM” housing projects. These were all built on the outside of the boulevards des maréchaux, to fill in the blank area where the old fortifications were demolished. HBM means Habitations Bon Marché (cheap housing). In modern times, the official term has become HLM (Habitations à loyer modéré = moderate rent housing). They are reserved for people whose revenue qualifies for assisted housing. In Paris, it is common to be on the waiting list for 5 or 10 years. Actually, they look pretty damn good now, because just about all of them have now been renovated at great expense. 20 years ago, most of them looked sort of crappy. Nevertheless, everybody who lives on the outer rim feels cut off from “real Paris” – except for the people now living along the tramway line section. This was a gigantic step in helping them feel less isolated.
|
|
|
Post by mich64 on Apr 5, 2011 18:31:59 GMT
Kerouac the renovated moderate rent housing buildings are indeed lovely.
bjd, thank you for letting me know there is more that one tram line in Toronto, we will have fun finding the others. I have been to the city many many times but only 2 times for fun, all the other times just for doctor appointments or hospital stays so I know one area of the city very well and am just now beginning to enjoy other parts. Cheers, Mich
|
|
|
Post by Deleted on Apr 5, 2011 18:46:49 GMT
You can see some of the modifications that have been made to the buildings. Here are obviously some elevators that were added. In the old days, poor people did not need elevators. They were happy just to have a WC inside their flat instead of on the landing. And bathrooms! For the first time ever, poor people had bathrooms! Probably, some of these buildings – depending on when they were built – 1920, 1930, 1940 – had some elevators already. But here’s an example of just putting more light in the dingy stairwell. There are hundreds and hundreds of these buildings ringing Paris, in all of the glory (?) of mostly 1930’s architecture. Bricks were very popular obviously, and frankly over the years the style has grown on me.
|
|
|
Post by Deleted on Apr 5, 2011 20:15:22 GMT
The next major place along the way is Porte d'Orléans. This is considered to be the major southern exit of the city. It is therefore a major traffic jam area. Just past Porte d'Orléans is the Cité Universitaire, which some readers may remember from another report. (I plan to provide a few links at the end of this report for anybody interested in some of the things along the way.) Across from the Cité Universitaire is the Parc Montsouris, one of the large parks of Paris. I have completely ignored it in other reports, so I made a point of entering it this time. An important thing to note is that it is the location of the Paris meteorological station, so when you read or see the temperature and weather in Paris, this is where it comes from. This is the tower where everything is measured. On our way from the 14th to the 13th arrondissement.
|
|
tallyhotravel
member
Offline
It is my goal to live many lives in one lifetime.
|
Post by tallyhotravel on Apr 5, 2011 23:45:42 GMT
Absolutely fascinating kerouac! To use a colloquialism from the Deep South region of the US, I could just hug your neck for all the knowledge you share here and on other forums!
|
|
|
Post by lagatta on Apr 6, 2011 1:26:19 GMT
I love those old HBM. I'd far rather live in them than the more recent HLM, whether the postwar ones or the more modern developments (though in fairness, there are some good ones). I'm most familiar with those stretches above Ménilmontant, though I've also been on the edge of town near Parc Montsouris.
kerouac, you did another look at even earlier social housing in a post a while back. It was most impressive at the turn of the last century (the dateline for these earlier ones) for working-class people to have electricity, running water, and proper baths and toilets.
|
|
|
Post by bjd on Apr 6, 2011 11:30:24 GMT
I like those 1930s style buildings too. There are quite a few of them in the 12th that you see from the Promenade Plantée.
Mich, the other streetcar lines in Toronto run east-west along the main streets south of Bloor: College, Queen, King. And I think there is a streetcar line along St Clair Ave too.
|
|
|
Post by Deleted on Apr 6, 2011 19:47:55 GMT
Just a bit farther from Cité Universitaire is the Stade Charléty, a pretty big stadium. It's amazing how far inside you can see from out on the street. But this stadium depresses me. It was renovated a few years ago at great expense, but it has absolutely no use. No team for any sport is based there, although it was hoped that a major rugby team would use it. The last big event that took place there was a political rally for the Socialist Party during the presidential elections of 2007. Before that, you have to go back to the European track & field championships of 1999. What a total waste! It is used for minor sports from time to time. There was a baseball game there for the first time in 30 years in 2007. It also hosted the frisbee championship in 2008. Big deal. Strangely enough, it is the location of the French Olympic Committee. As we continue, we are approaching Porte d'Italie, the other southern exit of the city. In fact, the Autoroute du Soleil -- the A6 -- starts with two forks coming out of Paris on the way to Marseille. The A6a leaves from Porte d'Orléans and the A6b leaves from Porte d'Italie. You may notice that there are a few exceptions to the Paris height law in the area. Nobody really cared about this part of Paris in the 1970's. A bit of frenzied new construction is also in progress in a few empty zones. But what is this that I have suddenly found? Is it the most hideous square in all of Paris? I think that there is a very good chance that it might be. I absolutely must visit it completely! I really need to see the monument! It is obviously up this path. Let's begin with some of the people honoring the mothers. I absolutely do not know why they are not happy about it. Here's a mother. Mothers are for comforting their sons, okay, I'll go along with that. Granny seems a bit more detached, but perhaps she has run out of comfort juice over the years. Rejoice in obese babies! Forgive your teenage children for having done something unspecified but clearly horrible. Teach your dear little girl to read.... ... because she's not going anywhere with no feet! I am really not completely sure that the onlookers totally approved of what the French mothers are doing. Why don't they dispose of this park and put something good here? The sign makes it appear that everything is normal and that there is nothing to worry about. No way!
|
|
|
Post by bixaorellana on Apr 6, 2011 20:46:12 GMT
I love this thread! Yes, absolutely agree with LaGatta and Bjd about the attractiveness of the HBMs. I particularly admire the restrained but recognizable architectural references to the well-known Hausmanian style.
And gad, yes about the stadium's non use being a disgrace. How do you say "public boondoggle" in French?
Your captions for the mothers' park are a hoot. I don't know that grand-mère is so much detached as she is hissing, "Sheesh -- cut the cord already!" Perhaps the onlookers are those who did not have such loving mothers, and are casting jaundiced looks.
Okay, I have questions, please, some of which may be stupid.
First, do the stops named Porte d' this or that take one to train stations going in the direction of those ports? Or, are they more an aid to orientation?
And the trams themselves ........... The overhead lines look standard, but the cars themselves are so sleek and modern. Do they travel much faster than older, more traditional trolleys/streetcars?
Please ignore my questions if you're planning on covering them later on, in context.
Thanks for this!
|
|
|
Post by fumobici on Apr 6, 2011 20:53:03 GMT
I was slightly devastated to learn that Paul Bigot isn't the original source for the word. That statuary has the same saccherine creepy social realist feel as the hideous remains of Mussolini's public art still littering various parks and squares in Italy.
No matter, wonderful reportage! Hope there's more forthcoming.
|
|
|
Post by Deleted on Apr 6, 2011 20:56:59 GMT
Onward to Place d'Italie... The Kellerman international center is of interest to lots of people around the world, because this is where thousands of young people are housed during educational exchanges, generally of high school age. During the summer, I think it operates as a hostel, but in any case it doesn't look too shabby in case you know any young people who are planning on going there some day. Just across the street, I appreciated how direct the names of places used to be in the old days. In modern times, such a place might be called "Shady Maples" instead of "Building #4 for cheap dwellings for big families." Oh my god, here is another abomination! Some sort of horrible globe embedded in a square. If it were just ugly, that would be one thing, but why is everything so distorted with the wavy lines and a weird Alaska trying to bite Siberia? Let's try to ignore it and just look at the road sign and the entrance into Paris by avenue d'Italie. Starting from here, the tramway is beginning to enter Chinatown. One of the reasons that all of the towers (exempted from the Paris rules for some reason) filled with Asians is that they were built at the same moment that tens of thousands of boat people arrived in France in the 1970's. Add to that that fact that most Parisians did not want to live in an apartment tower... The circumflex accents on this graffitti would tend to imply that the person who wrote it is of Vietnamese origin.... Only the Vietnamese use circumflex accents on those words. Let's quickly pass through the Massena 13 shopping mall. Here is where Asians buy their favorite Greek food. (WTF?)
|
|
|
Post by Deleted on Apr 6, 2011 21:23:29 GMT
Bixa, every exit of Paris is called a "Porte" from the old days of walled cities, even if Paris did not really have walls around it. Frankly, I don't know exactly what the demolished fortifications were like and if they gave the impression of exiting a gate.
I'm glad you are enjoying this -- there is much more coming.
|
|
tallyhotravel
member
Offline
It is my goal to live many lives in one lifetime.
|
Post by tallyhotravel on Apr 6, 2011 23:22:46 GMT
<<Hey, a Picard frozen food supermarket at this stop!>>
Enlighten me a bit on Picard, svp. One was located around the corner from the apt where I stayed last May, but I never went inside. What makes the frozen foods they sell different from frozen foods stocked at the regular grocery store? Who shops there - people who don't cook but buy frozen meals instead?
|
|
|
Post by bjd on Apr 7, 2011 7:55:54 GMT
Picard is a huge chain of frozen food. Their stuff is generally good -- whether it's prepared stuff, fish, vegetables, etc. People generally cook in France, although many use frozen stuff to go faster.
I go to Picard because it's the only place I can find frozen fruit when I need it. I buy some other stuff too, although rarely entire prepared dishes. Their ice cream is good too.
|
|
|
Post by bjd on Apr 7, 2011 7:58:17 GMT
I forgot. re: Porte. Paris in fact had several walls, which over time were demolished as the city grew and new ones went up. The names for the various "portes", or gates, which used to be closed at night, came from the roads leading to the places at the end. Hence Porte d'Italie, was the road that led to Italy, Porte d'Orléans to the city of Orléans, Porte de Vincennes, to the town of Vincennes, etc.
|
|
|
Post by tod2 on Apr 7, 2011 9:39:18 GMT
Enjoying the ride immensely Kerouac as you are pointing out so many things we had no idea about when we caught the tram at Porte d'Ivry-Massena, traveling first in one direction and then taking it in the opposite way. It was just for the hell of it then but on future trips to Paris I am going to make sure I ride on all three T's!
The 'mothers' statues in the park look as if their features are slowly erroding away which makes me wonder what material was used and whether they were cast in a mould or carved?
|
|
|
Post by Deleted on Apr 7, 2011 10:40:17 GMT
<<Hey, a Picard frozen food supermarket at this stop!>> Enlighten me a bit on Picard, svp. One was located around the corner from the apt where I stayed last May, but I never went inside. What makes the frozen foods they sell different from frozen foods stocked at the regular grocery store? Who shops there - people who don't cook but buy frozen meals instead? I often buy vegetables that I don't want to take the time to clean myself, such as Brussels sprouts, asparagus or cauliflower -- not to mention the fact that everything is "in season" at all times. The price of the New Zealand leg of lamb is also unbeatable.
|
|
|
Post by Deleted on Apr 7, 2011 18:21:05 GMT
Of course, when the local Asians get tired of Greek goodies, more traditional fare is available just a few steps away. I glanced at the ParisGel frozen food supermarket which I have not yet visited, and today was not to be my day of discovery either, because it actually closes for lunch time, the way every French shop used to do 50 years ago. But this is 2011! 6.50€ for a bag of 15 kilos of cabbage is a pretty good price for Paris, but I'm not sure if I could use it all efficiently. (Many of these stores sell most of their stuff to restaurants.) ParisGel is owned by Paris Store, one of the two Asian food giants in France. The other one is Tang Frères, owned by Laotian immigrants and the most powerful Asian importer in the Paris area (I have read that it is the biggest customer of Air France Cargo.). I must commend Paris Store for opening supermarkets all over France, though, while Tang just remains concentrated in the Paris metropolitan area. Okay, the name "Paris Store" is pretty stupid, let's face it, for a store specialized in Asian food, but for Asian immigrants it probably sounds very appealing and chic. We are not visiting Chinatown on this report. Some of you may remember that I have already "done" Chinatown on another report, although I do believe that it deserves a return visit before long. Back to the tramway... Oh my god! Chinatown is where the tramway line suddenly ends! What happens next?
|
|
|
Post by Deleted on Apr 7, 2011 18:53:39 GMT
Well, next year, the T3 line is going to be extended all the way to Porte de la Chapelle where I live. Yay! You would not believe what a monumental project this is, but I do, because I saw the original tramway line being built -- cutting down century old trees, ripping up the roadway and the sidewalks.... it is a horrible mess. Before they can even think about laying track, they have do things like dig up all of the old pipes and electric lines and reroute them. So as we start the next part of this report, think about the neighbors of the lines, who have been living in this hell for almost two years already before they even start seeing anything that looks like a new sidewallk or bike lane being put in, not to mention the elusive rails. Right after the current line ends, you can see this impressive building which is a residence for Paris firemen. The firemen of Paris are part of the military, unlike firemen anywhere else in France. That is the reason that they are part of the military parade on the Champs Elysées on July 14th (and they also receive the most applause). I was surprised to see that the building was completely closed for total renovation. Meanwhile, it was pretty clear that this trip was going to take me through some complicated territory, even though I could see some real progress on the future sidewalks and bike lanes.
|
|
|
Post by mich64 on Apr 7, 2011 19:08:59 GMT
This report has been really interesting Kerouac and I am learning many different things. The recent portion was informative about the amount of details that have to take place in extending the lines. One forgets all the utilities that are underground that would have to be rerouted, redirected to facilitate this endeavour. For the neighbourhood, the conditions would be frustrating but the reward will not only be the Tram line but it refurbishes the area a bit as well I would think.
The information about why the firemen are on parade makes sense now, we always wondered why we would see them involved on the news. Mich
|
|