Chartres - July 2011 (by kerouac2)

[Deleted]

I know that I already did a bit of Chartres in the snow, and FrenchMystiqueTour did a great report about biking to Chartres, but even though it isn't a huge city, there is still plenty of stuff to see. And since it's only 100 km from Paris, I thought I'd go and walk around again late in the afternoon last week.

I parked in the huge underground 'Coeur de Ville' parking lot, which really seemed to cover such a huge subterranean area that it must have been as much a feat to build as the cathedral. I popped back above ground next to another striking 'monument' of the city, the former central post office.

The letters 'PTT' always give away the identity. It stood for 'Postes Télégraphe Téléphone.' I suppose those were listed in order of descending importance, because in the 1960's or thereabout, it became 'P&T' for 'Postes & Télécommunications' and now it is just 'La Poste' because the other services branched off into a different private company.

The new life of the building is as the municipal mediatheque. I confess that I am not totally sure of exactly what a mediatheque is, but it sounds very modern.


I walked in the general direction of the cathedral, which is almost impossible not to do in any of these towns centered around a cathedral.

This is not the cathedral.

The cathedral was not the purpose of my visit, so I allowed myself to be drawn into the 'vieille ville' since all of this other stuff is only a few hundred years old. 'Old town' is much older.

It's a hillier town than I thought.





















I have wandered quite far from the cathedral actually.

[tod2]

Aaaaahh, more memories..... thanks Kerouac.

It certainly is a wonderful old town to stroll around in. I remember the ancient old wash houses down on the river in one of the photos. Wow, that outer curved staircase!

I'd like to know, how you know, about the different aspects of a place like Chartres, for instance the vast underground parking? Was this a tip from the hire company or marked on a map?

We picked up our hire car in Chartres to save us driving out of Paris but unfortunately only had time to see the cathedral and stroll the olde town area - it was nice to see the other part of Chartres!

[Deleted]

No, I didn't know about the car park. I just drove around and couldn't find a space so I gave up and went into one of the numerous underground car parks. Luckily, it did not apply Paris parking prices because I paid only 3.30€ for 19:30 to 23:15.

(Anyway, my Paris-Gare du Nord agency would not have known about parking in Chartres!)

[Deleted]

Jeez, how much are they planning to put back together?





I decided to follow the little river for awhile.





Sometimes, a modern building can look pleasant in a place like this.

[Deleted]

I finally started climbing back up to the cathedral.



Watch your step!



Renovating these historic houses must be a bitch, just to keep them from collapsing.



I came across the oldest house in Chartres.





           

Just walking around at random was great.









Not everybody wants delicate lace curtains in their historic home.



Oh! The prison!



As I got close to the cathedral, I could hear some kind of music, not your usual street musician.

It was in fact a full orchestra and chorus.









I glanced into the domain of the museum next to the cathedral.

I don't know what kind of time this clock keeps on the side of the cathedral, but I figure that it must be a doomsday countdown, considering how little time is left.

[tod2]

Kerouac, Your photos show that next to the oldest house in Chartres is a house with a steep pitched roof displaying the most magnificent creeper - I THINK it could be a Madame Galen Trumpet Vine Plant.

What luck to come back to the cathedral and find such a glorious musical concert in full swing! The sun on the front entrance really sets the scene.
Thanks again for the lovely photos of your walk around Chartres.

[fumobici]

This is marvelous. My grandmother loved Chartres and I can see why. It's much more than a lovely cathedral isn't it? I must go someday and see it all for myself.

[Deleted]

That's actually the left side of the cathedral. The front is still covered with scaffolding.

It was about 21:30 by now, and the sun was setting, so I figured I should stick around a bit until dark. Still had some time to kill, though.

There were circles on the pavement making a path to various places. As the daylight diminished, their solar cells made them glow.

An evening of Chartres en Lumières was about to begin.

[Deleted]

Nice photos. I especially like the clock. The garden areas always seem so well groomed in France.

[Deleted]

I am very sorry, but my camera cannot do justice to dim shots at night. But I will make a feeble attempt to show a little bit of what I saw.

I was in back of the cathedral next to the museum, which was one of the first places to begin lighting up. I should mention that each place had its own musical theme, and the music definitely enhanced the experience.

I backed away from the cathedral.









The last thing I saw was also the first thing: the old post office.

[mossie]

Very many thanks for some super pics.

[Deleted]

Thanks, tod2 and mossie!

[Kate Cassidy]

These photos are lovely. My husband and I will be in Paris for two weeks in September, and plan to take a day trip. We thought either Provins or Chartres. Based on this, Chartres looks like the one to choose. Would you agree? (I realize it's all personal, but I value your opinion.) Thanks.

[bixaorellana]

Immensely enjoyable, Kerouac, and some absolutely beautiful pictures.

I love the way you began by saying there was much to see besides the cathedral, then followed that statement up with the remarkable post office building. It's such a strange mix of moderne on the bottom and what I think of as classically French on top.

Too many great pictures to list them all, but amongst others, the red-clad choir facing the cathedral as it's bathed in golden afternoon light, the flowers along the river bank, the lovely shot down the iron footbridge -- all wonderful.

What's the story on the maze, please?

[mich64]

I especially loved your photos of the Tudor buildings with my favourite being the exterior enclosed staircase.
Cheers,
Mich

[Deleted]

Kate, all of these cities have a lot to offer, so I would say it is a toss up. Naturally, I could add three or more cities of similar distance and history, but that would just confuse you more.

Bixa, I don't know about the maze, but I will try to remember to look it up soon.

[Kimby]

Love all the old timbered houses, and the one with the circular staircase the best.
Not sure about the colored lights on the cathedral at night, seems too gimmicky for such a regal edifice.

[Deleted]

Well, it's just a summer gimmick: www.chartresenlumieres.com

[Lynn B]

Gorgeous photos as usual.
I have been told the house immediately above the picture of the circular staircase belongs to Malcolm Miller, the English guide who gives tours of the cathedral.
The maze is maybe meant in some way to celebrate the maze inside the cathedral which people walked or crawled along as a journey of faith.
www.lessons4living.com/chartres_labyrinth.htm

We stayed at the Hotel de la Poste in Chartres with a view on your old post office. We spent one evening sitting on the place outside the cathedral eating a meal and watching gliders high in the sky followed by an organ recital in the cathedral. What a magic night. Your photos take me back.

[Lynette Lloyd]

Excellent Photos and tour.Thank you so much for sharing. There is so much to see here. I think spending the night here is a great idea so that we can see as much as we can.

[Deleted]

I agree that to fully appreciate the "Chartres en Lumières" event, staying overnight is highly advisable.

[gabriele]

Hi Kerouac,
I came here "just to get the link" so I could post in on Thorn Tree...but of course I had to stop and revisit Chartres with you again. It happens often...I reread a post and it's not just revisiting it, it's discovering it all over again...
Thank you...
sfgirl42