|
Post by lagatta on Sept 5, 2021 13:43:37 GMT
I agree, but I'll have to think about it as he could also be the vengeful type. I'll have more opportunity to talk to - friendly and helpful - health professionals when I begin outpatient physiotherapy - including cycling, of course.
|
|
|
Post by lugg on Sept 7, 2021 18:18:31 GMT
My study has several of what I call the feckin little black bastard flies. I have checked the pot plants , the most likely source , but they seem ok. They seem to know how irritating they are as they bomb me even as I write this.
|
|
|
Post by kerouac2 on Sept 7, 2021 18:33:08 GMT
I have gnat problems in the kitchen in the summer from time to time. Luckily, this summer was so rotten that the problem was greatly reduced this year.
|
|
|
Post by htmb on Sept 7, 2021 19:09:58 GMT
I’ve been taking care of my daughter’s plants, which are now looking pretty good except for the little fruit fly looking things that continue to hover on the edges of her pots. Annoying little critters, I agree!
|
|
|
Post by mickthecactus on Sept 7, 2021 19:19:49 GMT
You all need a Drosera, one of the fly catching plants. So easy to look after but so effective in hoovering up flies.
|
|
|
Post by tod2 on Sept 8, 2021 5:16:42 GMT
Mick, would Drosera attract house flies as well?
|
|
|
Post by mickthecactus on Sept 8, 2021 6:19:15 GMT
Mick, would Drosera attract house flies as well? Yes it can catch them although they tend to flit about the house rather than congregate in one area but well worth trying.
|
|
|
Post by bixaorellana on Sept 8, 2021 13:56:03 GMT
They seem to know how irritating they are as they bomb me even as I write this. Those hateful little gnats are the bane of my existence because along with the bombing, they bite. I read that they're attracted to carbon dioxide, so if we could hold our breath long enough, they'd leave us alone.
|
|
|
Post by cheerypeabrain on Sept 8, 2021 14:04:59 GMT
Jeff bought a chain fly screen for the back door which helped a bit ...but he the bought a zapper...an electric current/ultraviolet thing as seen on restaurant kitchens and take aways bzzzt...works a treat. Entertaining too... in a macabre sort o way
|
|
|
Post by kerouac2 on Sept 8, 2021 14:25:52 GMT
The ultraviolet zappers are the highlight of many Asian restaurants.
|
|
|
Post by tod2 on Sept 8, 2021 15:56:45 GMT
Jeff bought a chain fly screen for the back door which helped a bit Sadly I've stuck mine away in a cupboard somewhere...maybe even the garage shelf simply because the only function it has, is to make that zap sizzling sound when an insect flies onto the bars inside. It does not attract flies or mosquitos ( well mine does not) It only punishes them for being foolhardy and flying into the electric bars. Many a time I have had to coax the flies toward the machine only to see them buzz around and fly off.
|
|
|
Post by mickthecactus on Sept 8, 2021 16:31:40 GMT
Here’s my Drosera and you can see all the flies it’s caught.
|
|
|
Post by lugg on Sept 8, 2021 20:51:51 GMT
Those hateful little gnats are the bane of my existence because along with the bombing, they bite. I read that they're attracted to carbon dioxide, so if we could hold our breath long enough, they'd leave us alone. Haha Cheery your zapper sounds ultimately satisfying Here’s my Drosera and you can see all the flies it’s caught. Useful and lovely too - I am now on a mission to find one
|
|
|
Post by mickthecactus on Sept 8, 2021 21:14:12 GMT
So easy to look after. Just needs good light and you need to stand it permanently in rainwater. The flies provide all the nutrients it needs.
|
|
|
Post by questa on Sept 8, 2021 23:07:07 GMT
Rainwater...hmmm...not native to Oz then, is it!
|
|
|
Post by mickthecactus on Sept 9, 2021 8:01:33 GMT
|
|
|
Post by Kimby on Sept 9, 2021 14:13:52 GMT
I can’t get good information on how to prepare my teak table for re-oiling. Are there any handy folks on here that can help?
I have a good oil - Behlen Teak Oil - that I used 2 years ago. The table surface is fine, just looking a little dry. Can I skip sanding? I assume I should clean it first. But how?
Murphy’s Oil Soap? Or will that leave a residue? Mineral spirits? I don’t need to strip the existing surface.
I just want to do it right. Anyone got any advice?
|
|
|
Post by tod2 on Sept 9, 2021 16:11:13 GMT
Kimby - Are there no Antique dealers/Restorers near you.? I find they have the most amazing knowledge about all kinds of wood. Especially very old wood. What about a specialist paint and hardware shop?
Mr.Tod reminded me of how we renewed our kitchen table - Not teak just Yellowood.
He first scoured it with Methylated spirits and fine steel wool. Then set it alight. Then sand papered it with the grain and a fine paper. Then painted on a wood nourisher. After a second sand paper we sealed it with a wood preservative.
|
|
|
Post by casimira on Sept 9, 2021 16:14:12 GMT
That is an amazing plant Mick!! Mother Nature never fails to astound me.
Kimby, if you Google teak oil there are several links that come up including how to use it.
|
|
|
Post by mich64 on Sept 9, 2021 17:17:02 GMT
I just want to do it right. Anyone got any advice? We did our dining room table earlier this year and we used mineral spirit to remove any residue and oils and then used fine steel wood. So not as much work as sanding entails.
|
|
|
Post by mickthecactus on Sept 9, 2021 17:19:41 GMT
One of the difficulties of growing cacti from seed is that the seed compost attracts tiny flies called Sciarid flies. They lay their eggs in the compost and the maggots eat the seed roots. I put the Drosera amongst the seed pots and it hoovers up all the Sciarids.
Great plant and totally green. No chemicals. I introduced Kew Gardens to this method.
|
|
|
Post by onlyMark on Sept 9, 2021 20:19:16 GMT
Kimby, you can buy specific teak cleaner if you want. Best apply it with a scrubbing brush and/or one of those normal dish sponge scrubbers. The two sided ones with a rough side and a smooth side. After that see how it looks and maybe a very light and fine sanding. There is also specific teak protector fluid instead of oil - which I've used on garden furniture some years ago. The oil tended to discolour after a year or two.
|
|
|
Post by questa on Sept 10, 2021 1:22:57 GMT
I am always amazed at the amount of expertise we have on this forum. The last few posts alone are an example. Remembering Mark's sewing skills as well.
|
|
|
Post by Kimby on Sept 11, 2021 3:49:45 GMT
Thanks for the suggestions. Does anybody know if Murphy’s oil soap leaves a residue? I’m not trying to remove an old finish, just moisturize the surface with a reapplication of teak oil,
|
|
|
Post by whatagain on Sept 11, 2021 7:28:56 GMT
My pet peeves are that i have priblems with my car, my laptop died, one of my creditcard was canceled, my smartphone behaves weirdly.
Gosh, nothing important.
|
|
|
Post by tod2 on Sept 11, 2021 8:32:58 GMT
That sounds just awful What! Enough to give you grey hair...
|
|
|
Post by Kimby on Sept 17, 2021 0:22:19 GMT
Mich, is your table teak or some other wood?
Mark, I already HAVE Murphy’s Oil Soap and Mineral Spirits. Are either of those good for prepping the table?
The surface is in very good shape, doesn’t need sanding, color is even, it just looks dry to me. I just want to give it a drink of the same oil I used with great results 2 years ago. Long enough to forget how I prepped the first time…
|
|
|
Post by bixaorellana on Sept 17, 2021 2:40:51 GMT
I can’t get good information on how to prepare my teak table for re-oiling. Are there any handy folks on here that can help? I have a good oil - Behlen Teak Oil - that I used 2 years ago. The table surface is fine, just looking a little dry. Can I skip sanding? I assume I should clean it first. But how? Murphy’s Oil Soap? Or will that leave a residue? Mineral spirits? I don’t need to strip the existing surface. I just want to do it right. Anyone got any advice? Kimby, since you don't say whether the table is an indoor or outdoor one, but do say that its only problem is looking a little dry, I'm assuming it's an interior table in good condition. Here is my advice, which is based on having owned a good bit of teak furniture (indoor) & my gazillions of hours of oiling teak rails on a boat ~ Just make sure the table is nice and clean. I would make a weak solution of ammonia and water -- use at least 97% water in proportion to the ammonia. Wet a soft cloth, preferably white, in the solution & wring it out. Wipe the table well, checking to see if the cloth is looking dirty. Once you're satisfied that there is no residual grease or anything on the table, use a fresh cloth wet with just water & well wrung out. Wipe the table until you feel there is no cleaning solution left on it. After the table is nice and dry, go ahead & apply the teak oil according to instructions.
|
|
|
Post by Kimby on Sept 17, 2021 3:44:06 GMT
Thank you, bixa! That’s exactly what I was looking for to prepare my indoor dining table for a fresh layer of oil.
|
|
|
Post by onlyMark on Sept 17, 2021 5:15:40 GMT
Mark, I already HAVE Murphy’s Oil Soap and Mineral Spirits. Are either of those good for prepping the table? No idea, sorry. Never used them but I think Bixa's idea is a good way.
|
|