|
Post by spindrift on Mar 3, 2009 8:02:17 GMT
Of all the treks in Nepal the Everest (Khumbu) region is said to be the most spectacular. Five years ago I walked for two weeks around the various Sherpa villages mostly on the main route to Everest Base Camp. I didn't chose the longer Base Camp trek simply because I thought I wouldn't have the stamina to do it! but as it turned out, it was well within my capabilities but we had no time to attempt it. For this reason I hope to return to the Khumbu for another mind-blowing trek. Apart from a 9 day walk up from Giri, the only other way to start the Everest trek is to fly into Lukla airstrip (2860m) which Sir Edmund Hilary had built after his famous 1953 conquest of the great mountain. Because of the effect of high altitude on the body it is necessary to stay 'down' at this height for two nights before following the route up to Namche Bazaar (3800m). The photos below show the villages of Khumjung and Kunde (max altitude 3850m). Khumjung is where Hilary built a school for the local people and Kunde boasts a small hospital,staffed by foreign doctors, which treats the locals, climbers and trekkers. Views high up on the Khumbu route are mostly like this: On our way into Khumjung village we passed this house. These chortens welcome us to the village. We stayed in this tea-house. I remember it had one lavatory upstairs with a notice on the door that warned 'Only for Urination'. There was shack in the field outside for other purposes. Here is view of the Stupa and a long Mani wall leading to Hilary's school.
|
|
|
Post by spindrift on Mar 3, 2009 8:18:00 GMT
Most villages in this area are well-off due to the many trekkers who visit...the houses here are built of stone and many are painted blue which is a lucky colour. At such high altitude I was surprised to see potatoes being grown, along with buckwheat. It is so bitterly cold in winter that the potatoes are stored in large holes dug into the fields and covered with earth. Here are some village scenes. Notice the yaks that are used for transportation and food. I have taken this picture looking down on Hilary's school. More chortens... Here is a picture of Ama Dablam, towering over the village and my favourite mountain. And inside the local gompa (monastery) is the Buddha (for all Sherpa people are Buddhist). Also inside the gompa is this glass containing what purports to be a Yeti's head! Believe that if you will..... Mr Yak with sacred threads in his ears that have been blessed by a lama (a holy man).
|
|
|
Post by Deleted on Mar 3, 2009 8:46:10 GMT
I think those pictures are the best yet, spindrift. The Himalaya give the impression that the Alps are foothills in comparison.
The satellite dish on top of the Hidden Village Lodge reminds one that there is almost no such thing as isolation anymore. That is both good and bad.
|
|
|
Post by bazfaz on Mar 3, 2009 8:49:27 GMT
You have been to amazing places. I love seeing your photos.
|
|
|
Post by spindrift on Mar 3, 2009 10:47:16 GMT
Thank you for your compliments. I seek to distance myself from 'civilization' but as you say, Kerouac, it's next to impossible these days to find an area where there are no electronic communications. The nearest I came to it was in the Kingdom of Lo, Upper Mustang, two years ago which is 5 days walk from the nearest telephone/internet connection (at Jomsom). Unfortunately my Sherpa friend has told me that since last year there is a weak internet connection at Lo Manthang now.
|
|
|
Post by Jazz on Mar 3, 2009 12:21:56 GMT
These are wonderful photos, yet again. I think you could put together a remarkable book. I am fascinated by the Stupa and the chortens. And, of course, the yak looks very festive with her earrings!
There is a photography book, The Monasteries of the Himalayas, Suzanne Held, 1987, published by Ferloni-Speiss. It's beautiful and I think you would enjoy it.
|
|
|
Post by Deleted on Mar 3, 2009 12:45:34 GMT
Stunning photos! I too loved the stupa. In one of the pictures there are flower pots with something growing in them on the roof. And of course the ever ubiquitas potato!
|
|
|
Post by spindrift on Mar 3, 2009 14:25:01 GMT
I'll try and find that book on Amazon, Jazz. Nowadays it's rare to be allowed to take photos inside the monasteries. In addition my camera isn't good enough for indoor photography. I must update it soon.
Casimira - do you know that inside the stupas, chortens and Buddha images there are relics from great saints, sacred texts and verses and mantras from the sutras? These edifices are regarded as holy and should be circumnavigated clockwise and if just passing - they should be passed on the left.
The Bon (religion of Nepal/Tibet) circumnavigate anti-clockwise and pass on the right.
|
|
|
Post by Deleted on Mar 5, 2009 4:12:42 GMT
Mr. C. has been fascinated by stupas. He has an extensive Buddhist book collection. One of them is PSYCHO-COSMIC SYMBOLISM OF THE BUDDHIST STUPA by Lama Anagarika Govinda I've perused it and it is indeed fascinating. He;s always wanted to build one.
|
|
|
Post by bixaorellana on Mar 5, 2009 5:46:29 GMT
Spindrift ~~ you are so good to share these astounding pictures! I could look at them all day -- so beautiful, so magnificent.
Some questions, please: what is a mani wall? And on the picture w/the mani wall, the rocks it's made of seem to be giant carved letters. In the first village scene, what are the conical constructions with white writing on them?
Thank you so much for this series!
|
|
|
Post by spindrift on Mar 5, 2009 9:00:51 GMT
A mani wall is made when the faithfull (in this case Buddhists) either make mani stones themselves (or have others make them) and place the stones in a certain location where other devotees then add to them (over many years). It brings great merit to the giver when a stone is made and placed. A Sanskrit or Tibetan Buddhist mantra will be inscribed on the stone such as 'Om Mani Padme Hum'. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mani_stoneThe location for a collection of stones may be chosen because something special has happened at that place. Maybe a holy man gave a teaching there, maybe an event took place that was considered to be special or scared. For instance in April 07 I was travelling in the high mountains of Upper Mustang and we saw the amazing phenonomen of a small rainbow circling the midday sun. This was an auspicious sign and we started a cairn of stones at the place...so every time the Sherpas pass by, they will add stones to our pile. Here is a large river stone that has been inscribed with a sacred mantra. The constant flow of water takes the words and meaning of mantra and distributes compassion to all the living beings that will come into contact with the water everywhere along the course of the river even into the sea....and in the sea itself.
|
|
|
Post by spindrift on Mar 5, 2009 9:11:31 GMT
The white conical constructions are chortens. A chorten or stupa is a reliquary containing Buddhist relics. Chortens are found all over the Nepal/Tibet Himalayas. Since ancient times they have been built on mountain passes, at places where travellers turn from one side of the mountain to the other, at entrances and exits to villages. Chortens are also built before approaching a big stupa. They are made in a prescribed manner and I'll try and find a good description in one of my books. A chorten or stupa will contain the relics of holy men - some or all of their cremated remains, sacred scriptures, mantras, anything holy...and those passing these structures will venerate and show respect when walking by.
|
|
|
Post by BigIain on Mar 5, 2009 18:04:21 GMT
What wonderful images, Spindrift. If you ever do re-visit to do the Everest Base camp trek, let me know.
|
|
|
Post by spindrift on Mar 6, 2009 9:11:59 GMT
Iain - you should do a trek in the Nepal Himalayas. The experience opens the mind, in so many ways, to undreamed of possibilities.
I'm vaguely toying with the idea of walking up the Langtang Valley for a second time...but I'd do it during the monsoon season (our summer) just to see the wildlife and FLOWERS...no need to go to high altitude on this trek; in any case the tops of the peaks might not be visible due to the clouds. The whole region is carpeted with flowers. I've walked that route during April when forests of rhododendrons and magnolias were in flower. I'll do a thread on Langtang.
|
|
|
Post by rikita on Mar 7, 2009 10:24:06 GMT
so beautiful... i am jealous... wanna go there too...
|
|
|
Post by Deleted on Apr 6, 2010 5:23:30 GMT
Before trudging out into the urban jungle, I took a few moments to admire these photos again -- a breath of really fresh air!
|
|
|
Post by spindrift on Apr 6, 2010 8:34:26 GMT
Once I have restored order to my new pc I'll be able to post more pictures.
|
|