Alacaudete in brief
Oct 1, 2011 22:24:54 GMT
Post by onlymark on Oct 1, 2011 22:24:54 GMT
In southern Spain, in roughly the centre of Andalucía, is a town of just 12000 inhabitants nestled in the olive groves that are a feature of this area. Alcaudete.
It has a long and often violent history from Roman times through conquest and reconquest up to the Spanish Civil War of the 20th Century.
The reason I’m focussing on this town a little is because it is the largest close to a house I have in the area, a cortijo.
It’s not a tourist town even though it has its own attractions. It’s not set up with tourist facilities even though in recent years there have been a few alterations like better signage at the few major sites.
It is in essence a working town with no pretensions but just so happens to have a couple of interesting things to see as a bit of a sideline. A no nonsense town which is reflected in its architecture, its lack of frills and the bells and whistles that seem to cheapen some places.
If you are a tourist then there are places to stay and things to eat, the people are friendly enough, but if you don’t visit then you get the impression you won’t be missed. Life will go on as normal.
The town is roughly central between Cordoba, Granada and Jaen so was always going to be of interest to invading hoards and traders.
After the Romans built a small fortification there, the Visigoths took over the town followed by looting from Arab rebels trying to decide who was the strongest faction. Eventually in 912AD Abd-ar-Rahman took over the town and a period of peace developed. Eventually though, after the town changed hands between Muslim and Christian several times, it remained in Christian hands from the 14th Century.
During all these comings and goings the castle was added to by various peoples, the encircling walls getting larger to encompass the growing town but as time passed and no more threats appeared the walls and the castle fell into disrepair.
In the Civil War (1936-1939), Alcaudete was located in the Republican area and was almost on the front line resulting in numerous air raids.
Anyway, first we’ll have a walk up the streets to the castle. Just in front of the castle is the Church of Santa Maria we’ll see in a minute.
A quick view of some of the old town defensive wall –
And the castle itself –
No frilly bits on any of that, is there? You can see from the initial look at the streets and buildings they don’t spend too much time prettifying things up. The castle itself is ‘businesslike’ to put it mildly.
As you near the top you get a bit of a view of the surrounding countryside –
My kids asked me once if I could guess how many olives there were in the area. Not trees – but olives. I declined to guess.
Every town must have its social housing and this is Alcaudete’s –
A remnant of the summer festivities –
As you get closer to the castle there are a few information boards giving some scant information. Like this one showing a representation of what the place must have looked like on being built, or added to, it wasn’t clear –
Another bit of information –
After walking all the way round to find the entrance, I did so –
However, as these things seem to be here, it was locked with no opening times.
This is actually the third or fourth time I’ve been here, each time calling first at a small tourist information office who assure me it’s open. It never is. This time, as once before, after my visit I returned to the office to be told if I waited, someone would come. They never do.
A peek through the gate railings though assure me the ammunition for the ballistas is still in readiness –
The keep is still there as well, looking to me somewhat like and ancient version of SpongeBob Squarepants either just having sucked a lemon or showing a moue of disapproval at something –
Anyway, I take solace in a panorama of its redoubtable walls showing not a twiddly bit anywhere –
On the way down I pass by what would have been some very protected houses cut into the hillside. Now in ruins but probably occupied until fairly recently –
A nice feature lamppost as I swing round from the castle to the church –
The side of the church at the foot of the castle –
Slip round to the front –
Find, as I expected, it is also closed but see some scant information –
The later edition of the belfry –
Now, should I take the short cut, or the longer way to the town centre?
The short cut –
Not very attractive. So it’s the slightly longer but nicer street –
See the old bloke on the right? Bit of a fixture he is. Just nearly opposite him is a cafe I regularly call at for breakfast. He’s nearly always there until the sun forces him to toddle off back down the hill.
A bit further down –
Past the indoor market that since being renovated still doesn’t seem too popular –
Past where the short cut would have brought me out –
Have a bit of an aimless wander round –
Slip inside a church that is actually open –
Notice they are doing up one of the side streets and putting some new cobbles down –
Through the arch that separates the newer part of the town from the medieval one leading up to the castle –
And into the town square of the oldest part of the town. See if you can spot how they’ve seamlessly incorporated new building into the old –
So as I walk out of the town I pass by what must be the most basic church facade I’ve come across. Hidden down the backstreets (I spotted it from the castle) and probably only really known to the locals. There was no name, no service times and no information at all. It makes me wonder what it would be like inside (if the door was ever open). Another example of the utilitarian approach to life here–
Just outside of town there are areas of beauty. One is the Laguna de Salobral –
Well known in the area for the migrating birds using it as a stop off but it doesn’t always have water.
It’s just at the side of the Via Verde del Aciete (The Olive Oil Greenway) which is one of the cycling tracks around Spain built on disused railway lines –
www.viasverdes.com/GreenWays/Itineraries
Just round the corner a little, hidden away and overgrown, is a remnant of the Spanish Civil War. What was known as a blockhouse. Basically a central reinforced building set into the hill where a number of soldiers stayed. Radiating away from the central point and connected by tunnels are several gun emplacements overlooking a strategic road, this one overlooking the road from Alcaudete to the west.
The soldiers would man the guns, being relieved from time to time and guard and monitor traffic on the road.
The central building housing supplies and soldiers had lost its roof –
But it’s a veritable rabbit warren of passages and alcoves, nooks and crannies –
But your intrepid and fearless reporter got to grips with the situation, jumped down into the building and decided to see where the passages led –
Well, they led to the obvious places – gun emplacements.
The view from emerging into one –
From the outside –
What they would have looked out on –
Anyway, a brief tour of the town and surroundings.
Alcaudete is part of the Route of the Caliphate detailing 800 years or so of the Moors in the area –
www.andalusia-web.com/route_2.htm
Also, “The routes of Al Andalus” which are mountain biking routes following old Arab trading roads from Granada and one of the routes of the reconquest when Christian forces retook the areas for the final time eventually pushing out the ruler, Boabdil (Abu Abdallah Muhammad XII), from Granada in 1492.
Slight digression to finish off – when Boabdil left Granada to the south for the last time he reached a rise where his last view of the city would be. The place, now on the main dual carriageway from Granada to the coast at Motril I’ve driven down many a time is called “El ultimo suspiro del Moro” – ‘The last sigh of the Moor’.). Boabdil burst into tears apparently and his mother said to him “Thou dost weep like a woman for what thou couldst not defend as a man.”
Not a lot of sympathy there then.
It has a long and often violent history from Roman times through conquest and reconquest up to the Spanish Civil War of the 20th Century.
The reason I’m focussing on this town a little is because it is the largest close to a house I have in the area, a cortijo.
It’s not a tourist town even though it has its own attractions. It’s not set up with tourist facilities even though in recent years there have been a few alterations like better signage at the few major sites.
It is in essence a working town with no pretensions but just so happens to have a couple of interesting things to see as a bit of a sideline. A no nonsense town which is reflected in its architecture, its lack of frills and the bells and whistles that seem to cheapen some places.
If you are a tourist then there are places to stay and things to eat, the people are friendly enough, but if you don’t visit then you get the impression you won’t be missed. Life will go on as normal.
The town is roughly central between Cordoba, Granada and Jaen so was always going to be of interest to invading hoards and traders.
After the Romans built a small fortification there, the Visigoths took over the town followed by looting from Arab rebels trying to decide who was the strongest faction. Eventually in 912AD Abd-ar-Rahman took over the town and a period of peace developed. Eventually though, after the town changed hands between Muslim and Christian several times, it remained in Christian hands from the 14th Century.
During all these comings and goings the castle was added to by various peoples, the encircling walls getting larger to encompass the growing town but as time passed and no more threats appeared the walls and the castle fell into disrepair.
In the Civil War (1936-1939), Alcaudete was located in the Republican area and was almost on the front line resulting in numerous air raids.
Anyway, first we’ll have a walk up the streets to the castle. Just in front of the castle is the Church of Santa Maria we’ll see in a minute.
A quick view of some of the old town defensive wall –
And the castle itself –
No frilly bits on any of that, is there? You can see from the initial look at the streets and buildings they don’t spend too much time prettifying things up. The castle itself is ‘businesslike’ to put it mildly.
As you near the top you get a bit of a view of the surrounding countryside –
My kids asked me once if I could guess how many olives there were in the area. Not trees – but olives. I declined to guess.
Every town must have its social housing and this is Alcaudete’s –
A remnant of the summer festivities –
As you get closer to the castle there are a few information boards giving some scant information. Like this one showing a representation of what the place must have looked like on being built, or added to, it wasn’t clear –
Another bit of information –
After walking all the way round to find the entrance, I did so –
However, as these things seem to be here, it was locked with no opening times.
This is actually the third or fourth time I’ve been here, each time calling first at a small tourist information office who assure me it’s open. It never is. This time, as once before, after my visit I returned to the office to be told if I waited, someone would come. They never do.
A peek through the gate railings though assure me the ammunition for the ballistas is still in readiness –
The keep is still there as well, looking to me somewhat like and ancient version of SpongeBob Squarepants either just having sucked a lemon or showing a moue of disapproval at something –
Anyway, I take solace in a panorama of its redoubtable walls showing not a twiddly bit anywhere –
On the way down I pass by what would have been some very protected houses cut into the hillside. Now in ruins but probably occupied until fairly recently –
A nice feature lamppost as I swing round from the castle to the church –
The side of the church at the foot of the castle –
Slip round to the front –
Find, as I expected, it is also closed but see some scant information –
The later edition of the belfry –
Now, should I take the short cut, or the longer way to the town centre?
The short cut –
Not very attractive. So it’s the slightly longer but nicer street –
See the old bloke on the right? Bit of a fixture he is. Just nearly opposite him is a cafe I regularly call at for breakfast. He’s nearly always there until the sun forces him to toddle off back down the hill.
A bit further down –
Past the indoor market that since being renovated still doesn’t seem too popular –
Past where the short cut would have brought me out –
Have a bit of an aimless wander round –
Slip inside a church that is actually open –
Notice they are doing up one of the side streets and putting some new cobbles down –
Through the arch that separates the newer part of the town from the medieval one leading up to the castle –
And into the town square of the oldest part of the town. See if you can spot how they’ve seamlessly incorporated new building into the old –
So as I walk out of the town I pass by what must be the most basic church facade I’ve come across. Hidden down the backstreets (I spotted it from the castle) and probably only really known to the locals. There was no name, no service times and no information at all. It makes me wonder what it would be like inside (if the door was ever open). Another example of the utilitarian approach to life here–
Just outside of town there are areas of beauty. One is the Laguna de Salobral –
Well known in the area for the migrating birds using it as a stop off but it doesn’t always have water.
It’s just at the side of the Via Verde del Aciete (The Olive Oil Greenway) which is one of the cycling tracks around Spain built on disused railway lines –
www.viasverdes.com/GreenWays/Itineraries
Just round the corner a little, hidden away and overgrown, is a remnant of the Spanish Civil War. What was known as a blockhouse. Basically a central reinforced building set into the hill where a number of soldiers stayed. Radiating away from the central point and connected by tunnels are several gun emplacements overlooking a strategic road, this one overlooking the road from Alcaudete to the west.
The soldiers would man the guns, being relieved from time to time and guard and monitor traffic on the road.
The central building housing supplies and soldiers had lost its roof –
But it’s a veritable rabbit warren of passages and alcoves, nooks and crannies –
But your intrepid and fearless reporter got to grips with the situation, jumped down into the building and decided to see where the passages led –
Well, they led to the obvious places – gun emplacements.
The view from emerging into one –
From the outside –
What they would have looked out on –
Anyway, a brief tour of the town and surroundings.
Alcaudete is part of the Route of the Caliphate detailing 800 years or so of the Moors in the area –
www.andalusia-web.com/route_2.htm
Also, “The routes of Al Andalus” which are mountain biking routes following old Arab trading roads from Granada and one of the routes of the reconquest when Christian forces retook the areas for the final time eventually pushing out the ruler, Boabdil (Abu Abdallah Muhammad XII), from Granada in 1492.
Slight digression to finish off – when Boabdil left Granada to the south for the last time he reached a rise where his last view of the city would be. The place, now on the main dual carriageway from Granada to the coast at Motril I’ve driven down many a time is called “El ultimo suspiro del Moro” – ‘The last sigh of the Moor’.). Boabdil burst into tears apparently and his mother said to him “Thou dost weep like a woman for what thou couldst not defend as a man.”
Not a lot of sympathy there then.