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Post by Jazz on Oct 30, 2011 17:27:55 GMT
'If you are lucky enough to have lived in Paris as a young man, then wherever you go for the rest of your life, it stays with you, for Paris is a moveable feast’. Ernest Hemingway, 1950. Each day I felt these words. This beautiful market was a part of my life and I visited it most days, it was only a ten minute walk from my apartment. Often I began the day there with a café crème, immersing myself in its’ vibrancy and sensuality, loving the hustle and bustle… the people. My first visit was with the lovely Bjd, who in just one day, gave me a remarkable feel for my new neighborhood which I grew to love, the 12th arrondissement. These photos are simply to give a sense of the market. We begin with Sabah, a fantastic shop for spices, dried fruits and condiments, cheap, fresh, wonderful, The market is a fascinating mélange of three markets in one, delicious food in the open stalls in the streets and square, a flea market and, the very old covered market, Marche Beauveau. continues...
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Post by bixaorellana on Oct 30, 2011 18:10:19 GMT
Oh, Jazz! Really, that's almost all I can say right now -- oh, Jazz!
This is a glorious thread already. If I couldn't read, I'd still deeply enjoy the super photos. The first one is absolutely stellar and I also particularly like the one with the fruits and stores bracketed by the older man and woman -- brilliant.
Can't wait to see more.
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Post by Jazz on Oct 30, 2011 18:47:58 GMT
The flea market, [/center Be aware that the vendors do not always return the next day, so if you love something, buy it! To this moment I regret not buying the gorgeous 1920's alligator bag for 60E, it had a shoulder strap and could have carried my laptop. The old covered market, Marche Beauveau, continues...
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Post by mich64 on Oct 30, 2011 19:07:41 GMT
Oh Jazz, I am very excited to see everything! All of those treasures... Loved the hats, the flowers, the vegetables, all the people. I cannot wait to see more. Cheers, Mich
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Post by bjd on Oct 30, 2011 19:14:41 GMT
Thanks for these photos, Jazz -- nice to see you enjoyed it all. Too bad for the alligator (crocodile?) briefcase.
Mich -- this is just less than 10 minutes walk from your hotel near the Gare de Lyon. Aligre is a great market, and one of the cheapest in Paris.
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Post by mich64 on Oct 30, 2011 19:18:32 GMT
And I did not get to go! I am very disappointed that I missed this. Well, I guess I will just have to take my sister next September. Until then, I have the lovely Jazz to show what I missed out on. Cheers! Mich
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Post by Jazz on Oct 30, 2011 19:42:37 GMT
Of course, one needs to rest and savour the smells, the tastes, the gorgeous flowers, the people…the sumptuousness is overwhelming. There are many great cafes, modestly priced, each with a different feel. Fabulous people watching! Not to be missed is le Baron Rouge! Open from 10AM-2PM and 4-10PM. Superbe! They offer an extensive wine selection (dirt cheap to expensive) and fresh oysters by the half dozen of about 6 grades. (starting at 5.95E for 6.) (also other food) You will enjoy yourself inside but to be outside is unforgettable and, very companionable... leaning on the huge wine barrels with a glass of white wine and some oysters. Wherever you may be in Paris, there will be a great food market nearby and there is no need to trot across the city. But, my heart is with Marche Aligre. Some reading: www.wineterroirs.com/2004/08/paris_wine_bars.htmlafoodiefroggy.canalblog.com/archives/2007/02/21/4081006.htmlwww.bonjourparis.com/story/marche-daligre-paris-market-12th/marchedaligre.free.fr/info.htm
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Post by nycgirl on Oct 31, 2011 2:57:17 GMT
Charming! I wish I had had a chance to visit this market. And I've heard good things about Baron Rouge. There's always next time. In the meantime, I'm glad I can live vicariously through your photos.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 31, 2011 5:57:28 GMT
Sensational report, Jazz. It is always great to see how others capture sights that I consider familiar, and you have done a splendid job -- particularly your shots of the people, since each person will always be more unique than "another artichoke". No offense to the artichokes of the world...
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Post by frenchmystiquetour on Oct 31, 2011 9:32:12 GMT
I was just with some tours customers there yesterday during the market and they loved it. Took them to some of the places I showed you in the 20th and they loved that too. I'll be waiting for more of your vacation photos and stories.
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Post by bjd on Oct 31, 2011 10:25:51 GMT
Just don't make the area of Aligre too well-known, FMT.
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Post by tod2 on Oct 31, 2011 12:05:38 GMT
Aah Jazz, thanks for the wonderful photo reminder of my one and only visit to Marche Aligre`!! I bought all our veg &, meat and fish there while we rented an apartment last year.
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Post by Jazz on Oct 31, 2011 17:16:32 GMT
Thanks everyone! Your kind remarks are above and beyond the call of duty, god knows these are not the finest photos. But, this market was a special portion of my trip and it is seldom written about. Don’t worry Bjd, I doubt it will be overrun by the touristas. It really is a fine working class market, perhaps 2% of the people seem to be tourists? (yes, I mourn the loss of my alligator bag) Anyway, I always felt at home, tremendously stimulated and immersed myself in the aliveness and sensuality. I love that it is open 6 days a week. The Bastille market is also good. Although its only a ten minute walk away, it's packed with tourists. And, open only two days a week. Oh, Jazz! Really, that's almost all I can say right now -- oh, Jazz!.... . Bixa, I started laughing the moment I read this deliciously non committal comment. ;D (ie: ‘wtf am I going to say diplomatically about these lousy photos?’…) But, you rose to the occasion and I thank you ….the first shot and the one of the old couple are my favorites as well. I love the older man.
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Post by sojoh on Nov 1, 2011 21:02:48 GMT
Jazz, I really liked seeing all of your photos from an area of Paris that I haven't had the opportunity to explore yet. The picture of the chandelier caught my eye and I had to look at it a couple of times to be sure that it really is made out of wine glasses.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 1, 2011 21:10:49 GMT
Sojoh, that's just like the chandeliers in the Rotonde de la Villette.
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Post by Jazz on Nov 1, 2011 21:17:01 GMT
Jazz, I really liked seeing all of your photos from an area of Paris that I haven't had the opportunity to explore yet. The picture of the chandelier caught my eye and I had to look at it a couple of times to be sure that it really is made out of wine glasses. Thanks, sojoh. A trip to Marche Aligre is worth your time. I've been to many Paris makets, but this one is exceptional.
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Post by sojoh on Nov 2, 2011 8:44:46 GMT
Kerouac, Then the Rotonde de la Villette is another place that I have to go. I haven't been there either.
Jazz, After seeing your photos, I'll be sure to get to Marche Aligre. Are you going to share some reports about the places that you ate while in Paris? From reading your thread on food, it seems as if we're attracted to the same kind of places and I'm curious to know where you went.
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Post by patricklondon on Nov 2, 2011 15:40:26 GMT
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Post by Jazz on Nov 2, 2011 18:04:03 GMT
Lucky you Patrick, to have had a regular home exchange! (hmmm… can I do this?…) Your photo certainly captures the after hours mood of the market. I would find the nocturnal silence and emptiness odd, but then each morning it burst reassuringly into noisy bustling life again.
Sojoh, I will mention some of my meals, cafes, restaurants soon in the budget eating thread
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Post by lagatta on Nov 2, 2011 18:45:38 GMT
Yes, I'm very familiar with this area too. It is a great market, and cheaper than Bastille.
Looking forward to "les bonnes adresses".
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Post by bjd on Nov 2, 2011 18:49:02 GMT
Speaking of "les bonnes adresses" -- La Table d'Aligre which has often been recommended was a total disappointment. Jazz and I went and both agreed the food was lousy -- overcooked roast veal and dry couscous.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 2, 2011 19:31:46 GMT
I have heard that numerous times but have never eaten there. It was an extremely reliable address 10 years ago, but 10 years is a long time.
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