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Post by bixaorellana on Oct 31, 2011 19:56:14 GMT
Greetings, live ones. It's that time of year again, the time when we welcome those who've departed this vale of tears back to our reality for a visit.
This is a huge celebration across Mexico and definitely here in Oaxaca, which is a very traditional place.
We're starting with Friday the 28th, although there's not much to show for that day. You can look here at preparations leading up to the 31st and beyond, but stick around for now as we go through the 28th through November 2. This will take a while, so please come back often as parts are added.
So let's go ~~I'm downtown, alert for photo ops. Here's one in a chocolate mill, although evidence of influence from el norte has crept into this group of figures. This kind of witch is not part of Mexican tradition. Ah, this stationers is more in keeping with the proper spirit, although a little witch has flown in here as well. Not to play the martyr, but I hope you all are appreciating the risks I take in getting these pictures. Downtown can be a dangerous place Kind of a bust so far, although I'm enjoying myself anyway, as it's a beautiful day. Ads for events to take place in the next few days, a jolly sight ~ I'm heading towards El Llano park right now & passing La Iglesia de los Nieves. This is the last of the many food stands snugged up to its side wall. On reaching El Llano, I find that worthwhile Dead-ly photo opportunities are in short supply, although this was rich in photos & other ways, too. Well, tomorrow is another day. On the way to the bus, I nip into the tourist office for a shot of their altar ~
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Post by bixaorellana on Oct 31, 2011 21:36:24 GMT
So it's Saturday. I get out of the colectivo in the southern part of downtown and go north, toward the main square. There is supposed to be an exposition of altars in the old government palace, if the gringa-run calendar online is to be believed. Obviously there are distractions along the way. Such as this! Isn't it the niftiest thing?! An entire business set up on a wheelbarrow ~ A few steps along, I couldn't resist admiring this tidy wagon as well ~ Hmmm. Wonder where they get their meat. Here's a seasonal sight -- freshly dug jícamas for sale. I don't think these are meant for Halloween dress-up, as I've seen these sorts of very elaborate dresses for little girls at other times of the year. This pale-haired thin duo made me do a double-take ~ When I get to the government palace, the guards there inform me that there are no altars yet, but that I should go over to Plaza de la Danza where the giant sand paintings are being made. Just a note about "altars". These are properly called ofrendas -- offerings. They're where the dead are commemorated and welcomed with flowers, fruits of the season and other foods, plus often things they enjoyed in life, such as a favorite brand of cigarettes. A sand painting, called a tapete, which is also the word for a rug or mat, is made for a funeral. It's on the floor in front of where the deceased is laid out. Many tapetes will be made outside the cemeteries during this season. The giant ones I believe are a newer, city sponsored event. Last year at least, they were made by students as part of a competition in the alameda, the square in front of the cathedral, where we have to pass to get to the new venue. Oooo, cool! Even though the day is fairly bright, there's fog coming in over the mountains and the cathedral looms in front of a properly dramatic sky. Continuing along calle Independéncia, we pass another poster advertising a muertos-related event. We pass the gorgeous facade of the church of San Felipe Neri ~ The little boy skeleton is saying to the mommy skeleton, "Oh, Mama -- live people scare me!"
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Post by Deleted on Oct 31, 2011 21:43:18 GMT
Great pictures! Are jicamas some kind of turnip or some kind of beet? (Perhaps turnips and beets are the same thing?)
Yesterday in Pierrefonds, a kid said to his parents, "look there's a live dog!" This made them laugh as though they had just arrived from the town of dead dogs, or maybe just fake dogs.
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Post by fumobici on Oct 31, 2011 21:51:09 GMT
OMG, that is a bewitching set of photos! ;D The colors, the people, the food. I want to be there. Now.
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Post by bixaorellana on Oct 31, 2011 22:14:11 GMT
The papel picado boy and his mother are in the entrance to a small hotel's lovely courtyard. The man at the desk graciously allows me to come in and take pictures of their altar. Continuing west on Independéncia, we come to the steps that lead to the beautiful tree-shaded square outside the churchyard of La Soledad. The square is known for its many ice cream stands. But what's this?! Hell's bells -- the city has typically made a big mess in a place of civic pride right before a major tourist season. Admittedly, bites missing from stairs are a menace, but still ........ *sigh* All of the ice cream stands are dismantled and the little row of tin shops that sell candy, cigarettes and like are all shuttered. Let's continue up to the next level -- the Plaza de la Danza ~ Well they're obviously not ready for the band to inaugurate anything yet, but things are definitely taking shape. In the "damnedifIknow" category ~ There are tons more pictures to show, including more of the tapetes. However, I need to go over to the Panteon de Xoxocotlán to take some pictures. After all, los angelitos -- the little dead children -- arrived back on earth about an hour ago. The Xoxo cemetery's big event is tonight, but I think we'd like to see them setting up, don't you? (Shots of that cemetery at night are in my Days of the Dead report from 2009.)The colonia where I live is part of Xoxocotlán, and the cemetery is within walking distance. So, I'll be back in a little bit and I hope you all will be, too. (Gad, I haven't even unloaded the gala pictures from yesterday, Sunday, off the camera yet!)
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Post by nycgirl on Nov 1, 2011 2:33:25 GMT
Great photos! Sure looks like a fun time to be there. The candies on the dessert cart look very inviting. Love the big, bright sand paintings.
Looking forward to more!
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Post by bixaorellana on Nov 1, 2011 3:03:00 GMT
Thanks, Kerouac. If you'll look at the 3rd picture in reply #1, the white discs are thick slices of jícama jammed onto a stick for easy eating. As far as I know, jícamas are actually in the bean family. Here's a crummy picture of two of the vines growing up a wall in my yard -- the green leaves, not the purple. You can see flowers and the bean pods. Only the root is edible. The rest of the plant is poisonous. This is a nice little description of it, although I question the morning glory connection. The flowers & beans are so totally legume-y. Yesterday in Pierrefonds, a kid said to his parents, "look there's a live dog!" This made them laugh as though they had just arrived from the town of dead dogs, or maybe just fake dogs. I've been thinking about this and what the kid could have meant ever since I read it. Still don't know what it means, but it's a perfect follow-up to the little boy skeleton & his mom. Thanks! Happy to bewitch you this Halloween day, Fumobici! And really and truly -- start making plans to come next year. While I was out this evening being annoyed by my wiggly bored dog and limping slightly from stepping in a hole in the pitch-dark cemetery, I was still thinking how much I love this holiday. Thank you kindly, NYCGirl. I hope you haven't spoken too soon. By the time I'm finished with this thread, you all are going to be begging for mercy!
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Post by bixaorellana on Nov 1, 2011 3:23:10 GMT
So anyway, here we still are at the Plaza de la Danza ~ You can see those previous four pictures are all part of one giant design. Let's rest our eyeballs from the hot tints for a moment and admire the really beautiful church of La Soledad. I have a special fondness for this church and plaza as my first apartment in Oaxaca was almost right next to it. One more bit of that sand painting ~ Huge painting hanging off the wall overlooking the plaza ~ This is a basket of flowers Death has on her head as she dances in another of the tapetes ~ Tools of the trade ~
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Post by bixaorellana on Nov 1, 2011 3:37:47 GMT
Glancing east we see the church of San José beneath a lowering autumn sky. And northward is a better view of the bleachers/steps leading up to Morelos street. Actually, we need to go up there and get an overview of the plaza and the tapetes. And Death is ........... what? Giving birth to a piñata? To the balloon used by David Niven and Cantinflas? These ladies were nice. They're from Puerto Vallarta, here in Oaxaca at a conference. We met at the door of the no-altars palace. One last look ~ And we're off again, heading east toward the wide pedestrian street. That's gonna be some show they'll have here later!
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Post by bixaorellana on Nov 1, 2011 4:53:48 GMT
Now we're walking north, away from the city's main square, on Alcalá street. We should be able to find some artful celebrations of the season here. A look into the museum of contemporary art yields this perfectly understated display ~ La Mano Mágica, an expensive shop with exquisite things, is showcasing Death ~ A tour agency has this rather over-welcoming figure ~ and Carol Channing, too! A peek past Carol at the street ~ This blowsy yet bony bimbo is in front of a really nice jewelry store, one with original designs. Looks as though the tour group outshines the jewelers on the Catrina front, though. Side by side: Upstairs over the pizza joint ~ And now we've arrived at one of my favorite places in the whole city, a place I can't pass without going in -- Amate Books. I believe this gentleman's name is Pedro. Let's take a closer look at his sign ~
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Post by bixaorellana on Nov 1, 2011 5:14:46 GMT
On the other side of the entrance to Amate, this friendly Catrina stands waiting to greet you. Here she's decked out for her special holiday ~ And inside is her consort, the catrín. He only emerges during the days of the dead. The figures are from Michoacán. They're made of tule wicker and iron. Note the copper haberdashery ~ The owners of the bookstore had an exceptionally fine crafts store upstairs in this building, featuring the premier folk artists of Mexico. Here is some of that art, mixed perfectly with bookstore merchandise to celebrate the season of the dead ~
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Post by lola on Nov 1, 2011 5:54:19 GMT
Too amazing, Bixa. Thank you!
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Post by bixaorellana on Nov 1, 2011 6:16:09 GMT
Hope you all enjoyed that interlude as much as I did. We're back outside now and on the side of Santo Domingo church, looking at the Fortín hill and the new roof over the amphitheater. I zoomed this -- it's not that close. There are certain people on this forum who practically demand at least one picture like this in every thread on Mexico ~ Oooo, and while we're doing spiky, here are some good spiky looks which I think might be because of Halloween/DofD ~ Okay, kids -- none of those friendly smiles. Let's see some disaffected brooding and de rigeur arrogance. Good! Good! Going back down Alcalá, back towards the cathedral and main square. I feel I'm seeing more Halloween stuff every year. You can still get "better" t-shirts with classic DofD motifs, though ~ I greatly approve of this kind of sky for this time of year ~ Okay, we're at the bottom of Alcalá where it crosses Independencia, looking west in the direction we went to get to Plaza de la Danza. I hear band music. Oh look -- the parade is coming right toward us! No wonder the poor friar and the death clown(?) are dragging -- their school is blocks and blocks away. The band! The band -- with the kids right behind them! (what's with the facial expressions?)
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Post by bixaorellana on Nov 1, 2011 6:45:36 GMT
And what are you little lads all looking at? That was nice! Time to head home. Crossing from the alameda into the zócalo, I zoom over the crowd listening to the orchestra into the side door of the hotel ~ Now I'm on the slightly meaner streets south of the zócalo. Here's an incense stand set up right in the street ~ Costumes in this store ......... ........ and no, no, no, no -- not already! Feeling like the figure below, I hop on the bus for home. Please stay tuned for what's still lurking in my camera -- Sunday's rural day of the dead market in Zaachila and Sunday night's mad kiddy rumpus. There's the setting up of the Xoxo cemetery this afternoon and I will be stumbling & snapping around the dark old cemetery tonight. And there's still tomorrow and the day after of days of the dead!
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Post by bjd on Nov 1, 2011 12:36:09 GMT
I hadn't realized that the Day of the Dead was such a huge thing in Mexico. And this lasts for days?
Is it that the country likes celebrations and will use any excuse, or is it something more?
Do those Goths only come out for this special occasion?
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Post by bixaorellana on Nov 1, 2011 15:27:11 GMT
Hi BJD ~~ Really glad you asked that question, as I didn't realize people might not know what an important, all-encompassing occasion this is here. To answer your questions, yes, it does go on over a period of days. Some of the rural cemeteries will still be having their special observances in the cemetery days after November 2, All Souls Day. I don't know how much of the extended celebrating comes from Spain and how much was already entrenched in the pre-hispanic culture. Many celebrations of specific saints' days here go on for over a week, culminating in the actual day. Those are usually confined to the towns of which those saints are patrons. Days of the Dead involve specific rituals and beliefs that come directly from pre-hispanic beliefs, although now of course have a Catholic gloss to them. Here's how Spaniards in the 1500s perceived the indigenous beliefs about honoring the dead: "They used to celebrate the feast of the dead, because they offered in their honor to the devil many turkeys, corn, blankets, clothing, food and other things. In particular, every household celebrated a great feast. They incensed the images they had of their dead parents, kinsmen and priests." (Anonymous Manuscript dated 1553)
"Facing north, they fervently prayed to their own kin, entreating them 'Come quickly, for we are waiting for you.' During this feast, offerings of food and drink were made to the dead on their graves." (Telleriano-Remensis Codex)
"After having placed the images on their family altars with great ceremony they offered them tamales and other foods, and they also sang their praises and drank wine in their honor.
"They also used to place images of the dead on grass wreaths. Then at dawn they put these images in their shrines, on top of beds of reed, mace sedge or rush. Once the images were placed there, tamales and gruel, or stew ... Then they offered the images incense from an incense burner ..." SourceThe description is pretty much identical to the way the days of the dead are celebrated now, in our time. When you visit homes or cemeteries and participate in anything related to this holiday, it becomes obvious that it has been kept alive because of profound belief and because of ingrained attitudes toward death. I have a great deal more to add to this thread and, as you see people in the cemetery, especially, you'll really understand how real a part of their lives this is. The main thing is how wonderfully joyful it all feels, even as the days get darker and colder this time of year. About the goths ~~ I've seen very few people doing a goth thing on a regular basis around here, but maybe I lead too sheltered a life.
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Post by bixaorellana on Nov 1, 2011 15:35:11 GMT
pee ess ~~ Here's a link to my report on San Bartolo. A look at the museum there will show how pervasive the theme of death is in Mexican art. And that museum is only art from the state of Oaxaca, but the theme runs throughout the country. The stuff shown in Amate books is mostly from other states, for instance.
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Post by fumobici on Nov 1, 2011 20:15:25 GMT
Wow this is fascinating, I'm really enjoying this. Cannot wait for the next installment.
We've been very, very lucky with some exceptional photo essays of late, from Cambodia to Paris to Pierrefonds, to the Jordanian desert to Oaxaca. The mind fairly reels.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 1, 2011 20:50:26 GMT
It's a pretty interesting planet, fumobici. There's a French expression -- "Adventure starts at the street corner."
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Post by bixaorellana on Nov 1, 2011 20:55:44 GMT
Thank you, Fumobici -- that's wonderful to hear. This forum is very, very, very lucky in its members. If you think about it, what we really are is an online magazine that grows and is updated constantly with brilliant photos and text all contributed by the forum members. Kind of astounding, really. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Well, here is the next installment. This is part one of Sunday, October 30. Charlie & I went to Zaachila to see the traditional market for days of the dead. There weren't all that many people there, but a couple of vendors said there'd be more later in the day, and many, many more on Monday. This was taken from the window of the speeding bus on the way to Zaachila. There were several people in this fairly large field harvesting marigolds. And here we are and here are more marigolds, but no cockscomb, which is also seen in abundance at this time of year. You'll see some later. Marigolds (Tagetes) are extremely important right now, as they're not only used as cut flowers, but their petals are strewn as blankets over graves or used to make a path from the street to the house so that the dead can find the offerings prepared for them. The cook pots hold a horrified fascination for them ~ This market always has many women selling turkeys on the regular Thursday market days. Turkeys are usually the treat meat for special occasion moles. I asked the price, & they're 600 pesos apiece, on the hoof! Everywhere there are bundles of flowers large and small for sale. And bread of the dead -- pan de yema (yolk) -- everywhere ~ There's Charlie waiting for me to snap yet another picture. ~~ Let's wander & shop. Because I could not stop for Death, he kindly stopped for me -- literally. I tried to snap this guy's tattoo on the fly & missed, so he patiently posed long enough for me to get the picture. Vendors have to snatch a bite to eat when they can.
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Post by bixaorellana on Nov 1, 2011 22:03:27 GMT
We're still here under the huge awning strung across the street to the steps of the main square and bell tower. This is where I bought some mole negro especial ~ I got some chocolate here. The chocolate is mixed with hot water or sometimes milk, and frothed before serving alongside pan de yema. Don't you love her little paper pop-up altar? Wandering back around the main section. It's all outdoors & not nearly as big as the regular Thursday market here. On the left, you can see the regular food section is doing a thriving business. Something else I bought -- a liter of mezcal de tobalá. It was decanted from the container the vendor's leaning on. I tasted the passion fruit mezcal, but found it wimpy, although she said it would really sneak up on you. Don't need that! And on the subject of beverages, I had to try this to see how the tepache I make compares with it. She dips the perfectly cooled brew out of the clay pot, then adds chile powder and salt. You can also have it with hard liquor in it & tricked out with chopped fresh jalapeños and onions. I'll try that another day. The little gourds are jicaras. As soon as I stopped at the table, the lovely vendor gave me a sample of the tepache in a teeny one. The smaller plastic cup in the foreground is mine. It was excellent!
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Post by bixaorellana on Nov 1, 2011 22:14:13 GMT
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Post by bixaorellana on Nov 1, 2011 22:23:39 GMT
We're just about ready to mosey over to the bus. Looking out from the ice cream stands aisle to the sunny market section beyond ~ Pecans are in season ~ Packing up purchases for the trip home ~ Stores have put tables out on the street featuring seasonal items ~ And what's this, across the street from the bus stop? Why, it's a jicara tree! I was hustling home from that market in order to get to the pre-school's Days of the Dead gala close to my house. Pics up as soon as possible, plus yesterday's photos of the graveyard in Xoxo being fixed up. Right now, in real time, I'm supposed to go over to Oaxaca's municipal cemetery. So, more of all kinds of things later.
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Post by nycgirl on Nov 2, 2011 14:10:54 GMT
Oooh, the breads, desserts, and refreshing beverages look so delicious! The big, fluffy marigolds also look good enough to eat. Thank you for this marvelous tour. Can't wait for the next stop.
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Post by mickthecactus on Nov 2, 2011 14:11:03 GMT
I've been away from the office a fair bit in the last few days and only just caught up with this - quite remarkable (a comment which hardly does it justice). Thanks so much Bixa (I learn so much on here).
Oh, and thanks for the spikies - guess that was aimed at me... ;D
Looking forward to more....
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Post by mich64 on Nov 2, 2011 18:29:48 GMT
Bixa, wonderful essay! I love the bookstore, I would spend a lot of my time there! Vendors are so neat and tidy and the street are always kept so clean, it looks like a fabulous place to vacation as those two blonde ladies might be doing. They do such a great job with the makeup and costumes as well.
That tepache looks delicious, I know it is not a tomato based drink but the picture reminds me of our cesar drink here in Canada, which has a base of clamato juice, vodka, tabasco sauce, worchestire sauce, celery salt and garnished with either, hot peppers, limes, a spiced green bean or a simple celery stick. It just looks different than when I have seen other pictures of tepache where it looks more like iced tea. It does look delicious!
Thanks Bixa, Cheers, Mich
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Post by cheerypeabrain on Nov 2, 2011 20:09:21 GMT
Stunning report Bixa dear, you manage to give a real flavour of the festival with your photographs, and the narative manages to answer my questions before I've asked them! I really enjoyed this...
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Post by bixaorellana on Nov 3, 2011 0:19:12 GMT
Oh, dear ladies and kind gentleman ~~ thank you all so much! Also thank you for your patience as I drag this thread out.
Next up is the second half of Sunday, & the pre-school's event. Believe it or not, that was fun.
The next day was October 31 & I went to the my local cemetery & took scads of pictures.
Yesterday I rested from all this fun, although if you all visit here, that's a wonderful day to be out and about. The Oaxaca municipal cemetery has their big do that night, distributing hot chocolate & sweet bread to the crowd.
I chose to go there today instead to see all the families visiting and the aftermath of last night.
Anyway ...................... all will be revealed!
NYCGirl, I piggied my way through that market, for sure!
Mick, would I aim a spike at you?! ;D
Mich, people who come here for vacation love it & return again and again. I've had Ceasars made by a real Canadian person, and yes, they're killer!
Cheery, is that a nice way of saying I don't let anyone get a word in edgewise? ;D
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Post by bixaorellana on Nov 3, 2011 5:19:28 GMT
Okay, for purposes of this thread, it's now late Sunday afternoon, October 30. I've returned from Zaachila & taken the dog for a walk, then hustled over to the pre-school a mile or so from my house. There's hardly anyone here yet, as all the parents & kids are wending their way toward the school in a comparsa -- a parade of costumers. Now, before we look at the pictures, have you all seen the hilarious article Don Cuevas posted? I have howled over it repeatedly and chuckled anew over it while at this Mexican kiddy event. The contrast between these kids and their parents and that of the "nondenominational potato prints" crowd is vast and amusing. The children have decorated the classroom windows for the event. What did you do at school today? Teacher passed out skulls to color! There's a big covered space in the middle of the school complex that's about as wide as a two-car garage, but longer. A few more decorations for doors, windows, and classrooms ~
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Post by bixaorellana on Nov 3, 2011 5:35:15 GMT
It's getting pretty dark ~ This will be the last half-way decent photo in this section, as I won't be able to use flash. It's a double oleander ~ Hey ~~ I hear a band in the distance! .............. They're here! They're here! (One of those great missed pictures happened here -- two children dressed as a dead bride and groom riding in a little cart pulled by a goat. Too dark ) Phew ~~ you can't believe how many people are crowding in! The kids are in the middle of the basketball court area. They're cute and everyone wants a picture. They dance like fiends to the music of the band. A band! Did you all have live music for your kindergarten parties? Dance, dance, dance!
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