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Post by Deleted on Aug 5, 2010 20:27:06 GMT
Near the end of the last century, I made a road trip in South Africa. I drove about 4000 km in two weeks. It was considered to be a rather dangerous place, because things had changed so fast. I tried to follow some of the precautions in the Lonely Planet guide that I was using, but time went by, I became more confident. This turned out to be a mistake. I don't have all of the photos that I took (more on that later), and I didn't take nearly as many photos as I would now. Notably, I have almost no city scenes -- nothing about downtown Johannesburg, or Pretoria, or Pietersburg (former name), not much of Durban, nothing of Cape Town... a tiny bit of Port Elizabeth. I am really ashamed of myself. I can explain the lack of Johannesburg photos. It had already been "invaded" and mostly "abandoned." In other words, the whites had already fled the downtown area, most of the stores were closed, and some of the big hotels, office buildings and shopping malls were operating as fortresses. It was very odd and sad. The LP guide had instructions (which I followed) about driving with the car all locked and to consider traffic lights as optional if there was any sort of threat, real or imagined. And what I saw downtown pretty much confirmed what was in the guidebook. The old department stores and restaurants were all boarded up, but the sidewalks had become African markets with thousands of people selling their wares in front of the former elegance. No way was I going to stop the car anywhere to take pictures! Considering what a positive imagine South Africa recently showed the world during the World Cup, I now find it strange thatI was so nervous, if not terrified. I stayed for a few days in Berea, an outlying district (suburb?) which was still mixed and reputedly safe for everyone, at least during the day. And it was indeed quite pleasant, except for the big security fence surrounding the hotel and car park. During the course of my stay in South Africa, almost every place I stayed was surrounded by a massive security fence, and it always disturbed my enjoyment of the place. I would say that at the time, Berea was about 30% white and 70% black, but I never felt that there was any sort of danger. Nevertheless, I never went out walking at night. Anyway, after leaving Johannesburg, there was a place I had to see, I am ashamed to say. I wanted to see Sun City. There had been so many news reports about it when it was built, as the gambling resort haven for white South Africans under the old regime. And then, when the country changed, there had been new reports about blacks going to Sun City for the first time, and the reactions to that. I had seen the photos -- so fake and so overdone. This is often the sort of thing that makes you want to see something even more. (to be continued)
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Post by hwinpp on Aug 6, 2010 2:56:58 GMT
While I have mentioned that Namibia holds nothing for me, I loved South Africa.
I too was fascinated by the idea of Sun City and rented a car to go there. Took the ultra modern shuttle train to the casino from the parking lot, didn't gamble but spent the morning there before leaving.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 6, 2010 18:22:09 GMT
I did put a few coins in the slot machines of the casino, but that was not really the purpose of my visit. What was really strange was to see black South Africans visiting Sun City for the first time ever. I noticed that they are completely missing from my photographs, because those are mostly of people "enjoying" Sun City instead of just visiting it. One image is engraved in my mind of a black lady in front of an escalator. It was so obvious that she wanted more than anything in the world to get on the escalator, but she was terrified. Had she even ever seen an escalator, even on television? She would slowly approach it and then jump back. (Images of wary squirrels and sparrows came to my mind.) I really wanted to take her by the arm and help her, but she looked like she might be a shrieker, so I abstained. I will never know if she finally jumped on the escalator. There were plenty of other black people wandering around. Some seemed confident while others were very hesitant still ("Do we really have the right to be here?"). I would very much like to return some day to see that things are now "normal." One of these days... I left Sun City and drove north on some small roads. I quickly discovered in rural South Africa that my preconceptions were all wrong. The main preconception (surprise, surprise) was that black = poor, white = rich. There were people alongside the road selling produce - fruit, vegetables. Some of them were black but many of them were white, dressed in rags, with dilapidated vehicles. It was a real eye opener. I drove to Pietersburg (now Polokwane). Stayed at a Holiday Inn (big fence around hotel, big fence around parking lot across the street). Everything seemed nice and friendly, but it was these fences that always made me think of danger. South African towns look very much like towns in the western United States or Australia (should I add Canada and New Zealand to the list? Probably...). The people were so friendly everywhere, but the black people became so much more friendly the moment they discovered that I did not speak Afrikaans (apparently I looked as though I should) and then the friendliness would increase even more when I was identified as a European rather than a white South African. This disturbed me.
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Post by bixaorellana on Aug 7, 2010 3:16:42 GMT
It scarcely bears mentioning that I absolutely adore the way Sun City looks and would go there in a heartbeat. The scale of the over-the-topness can only be admired.
Kerouac, you actually made me feel the discomfort you experienced. You don't say so, but I get the strong impression that you were slightly embarrassed about being wary. It had to have been weird to have been a white face in that place at that time, especially for you, as you knew first-hand a place and time with cruel lines drawn between the races.
Gad, those last two photos look like a stage set, as though there had never been any life going on there at all.
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Post by hwinpp on Aug 7, 2010 6:05:22 GMT
Did you visit any of the other 'homelands', Jack?
I drove down the Garden Route from Durban and needed a visa for either Trans- or Ciskei, can't remember which one. And in fact you needed it in advance!
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Post by Deleted on Aug 7, 2010 10:39:29 GMT
All of that homeland bullshit was finished by the time I visited South Africa, hw. The homelands had already been reabsorbed into the rest of the country. Anyway, I was rapidly learning how big South Africa was and how long it took to get from point A to point B. I had originally thought that I might have time to go through Kruger Park, but since my time was limited, I just put Kruger on my list for next time. I started heading south again, and my next stop was a place called God's Window. It is an overlook of a fantastic valley. The cliff is a sheer 800 meter drop. In the parking lot, there was a little market selling stuff to tourists. Back away from the cliff, there was a rain forest, which apparently is often shrouded in mist, but not today. Time to hit the road again...
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Post by Deleted on Aug 7, 2010 16:49:39 GMT
I believe I spent a night in Nelspruit, and then I drove through Kawzulu-Natal in the direction of Durban. I was somewhat surprised by the Zulu villages. Having been in other African countries, I had seen tribal villages before, but they were identical, at least on the outside, to how they have been built for hundreds of years. But the Zulu villages had a lot of modern houses, even though many were built in the traditional style. And finally I arrived in Durban, which, in spite of its size, seemed to be a nice normal city without the same warnings as Johannesburg. A large part of the Indian community lives in Durban, but it was not immediately obvious when I visited the beach.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 8, 2010 5:32:13 GMT
From Durban, the plan was to drive to Cape Town following the coast as much as possible, obviously. This was a challenge in the first section, because the roads did not follow the coast at all, and many of them were not paved. When you are driving in a strange country, knowing that you have a section of 100km of unpaved road ahead of you is not reassuring. However, a lot of the roads were lovely. I made it to East London and then to Port Elizabeth, which seemed to be an extremely staid place. But I was always more interested in the "local colour" type places instead of the reproductions of Europe. This part of the country was the only one through which I travelled where there were road signs saying to watch for elephants on the road. I finally did see a couple of elephants, but I was too busy driving to photograph them.
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Post by bjd on Aug 8, 2010 6:40:41 GMT
Thanks for those pictures, Kerouac. I had always heard that S Africa was a beautiful country and this confirms it.
What is the scene in the last photo? Some kind of market? Everybody is white.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 8, 2010 10:50:16 GMT
There were some magnificent stretches of coastal road after Port Elizabeth, as well as some stunning virgin beaches. The area seemed to have far more white people than black, and this caused me to notice once again the extreme poverty of some of the people -- I saw large families living in shacks along the road, and adults and children were all barefoot and more or less dressed in rags. It's amazing how one's eyes are skewed by certain preconceived notions, often picked up in school. Black barefoot African family = normal. White barefoot African family = not normal. Since that trip, I have read quite a few things about white poverty in South Africa, some of which already existed and some which has occurred since certain privileges have dried up, but back then I was really quite ignorant of the situation. That market style scene in the last set of photos was sort of a poor encampment, perhaps of South African gypsies. I just shot the photo because it seemed unusual to set up this stuff in the middle of nowhere, particularly since none of things for sale were of any interest. I spent a night, perhaps at Mossel Bay, which was the first and only town I saw without security fences everywhere. There was a motel run by Germans on a rocky outcrop at water's edge, and it was the first time I didn't have to go through gates in fences to stroll around, go to the parking lot or visit the other nearby commerces. A lot of people were fishing off the rocks. The next day, I had a disagreement with my Lonely Planet book, which insisted that it was not worth going more than 70 km off the main road to see Cape l'Agulhas, the southernmost point of the African continent. "It's just a rocky point, there's nothing to see." Who cares if there's anything to see or not? It's a symbolic place, and it is not meant to be "seen" -- it is meant to be "felt." That's like telling a visitor to NYC not to bother going to the World Trade Center site, because there's nothing to see. Jerks! Cape Town was going to be the end of my road trip and where I was going to return my rental car.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 8, 2010 14:20:59 GMT
The Cape of Good Hope is an unforgettable sight. It is actually not as close to Cape Town as one might think. It's something like a 50 km drive from the city, but it is obviously quite a beautiful drive. As for Cape Town itself, it is a lovely city, dominated by Table Mountain. It was the height of the summer holidays, just before Christmas, and I had to wait about 2 hours to take the cable car to the top. It was well worth the wait, and I would happily do it again. I took lots of pictures of the panorama and also lots of pictures of Cape Town which at last was a delightful, walkable city with fewer security fences. Once I had turned in my rental car, I walked everywhere. The city had a funky Greenwich Village type feeling in some areas, but it also had a modern business district with malls. It was really a delightful city. However, I encountered technical difficulties when I started enquiring about leaving town to get my flight out of Johannesburg. I had planned to take the Trans-Karoo overnight train from Cape Town to Johannesburg, but it was sold out due to the Christmas traffic. All of the other rail possibilities were sold out as well, so I got a ticket on South African Airways to fly back to Johannesburg. However, all of the flights were full as well, and I was on standby status. I therefore made a small change in my plans and decided to fly out of Cape Town a day early (waiting through as many flights as necessary until I squeezed on one). This would oblige me to spend a final night in Johannesburg, which I had not wanted to do for security reasons, particularly without a car. And thus we reach the part where I should have paid attention to the Lonely Planet book's warning. I arrived in Johannesburg quite early in the day. I saw that the main hotels were still operating downtown (later they all closed and rebuilt in Sandton, the 'safe' suburb) and that one of them was just 200m from the drop off point of the airport bus. Well the LP guidebook said "DO NOT TRY TO WALK ANYWHERE in Johannesburg, and to take a taxi even for just two blocks, no exceptions. "Don't worry, taxi drivers are used to this." Well, it was a lovely sunny day, around 11 a.m., and I decided to walk. After about 50 meters, I was greeted by 7 young men with butcher knives and allowed to contribute all of my possessions to their personal welfare fund. Baggage, watch, glasses, camera, passport, plane ticket, money. Hey, I was super lucky, because they left me with a small carry on bag after they squeezed it and felt only clothing in it -- but it also contained the rolls of film that I have presented in this report. Too bad about the Cape Town photos and some of the other photos, though. I'm pretty sure I had some good ones. What happened after that is another story. In any case, I had a fabulous vacation in South Africa. It is definitely one of the most beautiful countries in the world, and I hope to return some day.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 8, 2010 16:10:24 GMT
I'm so glad you dredged this up K. Magnificent thread,great commentary. That last set of pictures of the virgin coastline really sent me...that's my idea of how a beach should be,and the cliffs etc. so beautiful. I wonder if it's still like that. Thanks.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 11, 2010 18:15:39 GMT
Obviously I don't have my own photos of central Johannesburg the way I saw it, but I would like to display a few photos of how it looked when I was there (I hope that things have changed, but I don't know yet).
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Post by hwinpp on Aug 12, 2010 1:45:08 GMT
I stayed in Hillbrow when I was in Jo'burg, it was quite safe then and lively. It was the first time I saw orthodox jews.
Didn't realize I was there before you Jack.
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Post by bixaorellana on Aug 21, 2010 4:52:29 GMT
I feel like a dummy. I knew you'd added to this really interesting and wide-ranging thread, so meant to come back to see it, but then spaced it out.
This was great, though -- finally sitting down and going through it again from the beginning in order to absorb it all.
I have to ask -- what made you decide to tackle so much of an immense country by car? I admire you for doing it, but wow, that's daunting!
It would be interesting to see photos taken now from the same vantage points you show in your pics from that trip.
I absolutely love the sequence of Port Elizabeth, then the very abrupt switch to Africa. The pictures of the southernmost point are greatly appealing, as well. I've only been to the tips of Louisiana and of the US (Key West), but even that was a thrill.
The Cape of Good Hope pictures truly deliver that profound sense of being somewhere singular in the history and geography of the world. They might be my favorites in a thread full of very impressive pictures.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 22, 2010 22:15:39 GMT
I wish that I had been able to keep my last two rolls of film of Cape Town. I guess I'll just have to return some day.
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Post by bixaorellana on Jun 21, 2011 3:12:54 GMT
I was thinking, "Well, why didn't he ask for the film in the camera before surrendering it?" But, okay -- seven menacing guys with big knives? Even Kerouac2 is not that cool!
But seriously, I came back over here to find this thread, thinking it would be great to see after reading Tod's memory lane thread. I'm so glad I did. This is such a good, personal look at a place in a turning point of its history. It's fascinating and moving. It would be so interesting to hear how the places you've visited have changed (or not) in the last decade.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 22, 2011 18:10:09 GMT
Fascinating report, Kerouac. I really like the way you don't leave anything out, it's all there warts and all.
I've learned something new today. I also had the impression that it is only blacks in South Africa who live in poverty, now why would I have that idea? Great pics too, you really are very adventurous.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 22, 2011 18:18:16 GMT
A bit too adventurous on that trip. It would have taken my following just one piece of advice in the Lonely Planet guidebook not to have any problem. It said "Do not try to walk anywhere in downtown Johannesburg. Call any hotel and they will pick you up, even for just a few hundred meters." I think the hotel I had chosen was only about 400 meters from the bus station. What could possibly happen to me in such a short distance?
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Post by Deleted on Jun 22, 2011 18:22:05 GMT
Yeah, I can see that some advice should be followed after all, K! I hope you weren't hurt in that incident, what an awful shock to have that happened though.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 22, 2011 20:05:30 GMT
What shocks people is that I do not suffer from shock when bad things happen. Well, maybe a little, but within 24 hours I was laughing about it (to the horror of my friends).
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Post by lola on Jun 22, 2011 20:57:09 GMT
I'm glad you brought this up, bixa.
Beautiful, K2. Another world. I wonder how cab drivers protect(ed) themselves in J'burg
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Post by Deleted on Jun 22, 2011 21:27:23 GMT
You people are horrible. Now tod2 is going to see this thread and see what a complete idiot I am.
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Post by bixaorellana on Jun 23, 2011 0:31:30 GMT
It would be so interesting to hear how the places you've visited have changed (or not) in the last decade. That ^^^was the reason for reviving it, besides just wanting to look at it again. You're only an idiot if you think lovely lovely Tod would every think you were an idiot.
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Post by tod2 on Jun 23, 2011 12:47:28 GMT
She's right Kerouac! I loved looking through your photos again because I can immediately see how different South Africa is today but if you asked me 'what is different' I couldn't really explain it. You certainly have my admiration for tackling such a long journey in a large strange country!
Deyana - As Kerouac said, there have always been 'poor whites', (as they are referred to here). Today there are more poor white folks than ever as the job opportunities have dried up for any white person applying for the same job as black people except if you are extremely highly qualified - and even then......... Some of the poorest white families have moved to areas where only the African people live. The wealthier blacks (Africans, Indians and Coloured people) have moved into white neighborhoods to the dread of some white folks - and with good reason sometimes. The cultural necessities of slaughtering oxen, goats and sheep are kept up in the backyards of city houses although the laws do not allow it for obvious reasons.
It makes me think of some photos of a block of apartments in Egypt? that I think OnlyMark ??sent in and described that they slaughtered animals right there on the stair landing, washing it down with water afterwards. We have got a bit like that now.
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Post by mich64 on Jun 23, 2011 15:53:25 GMT
How we view, absorb and interpret when we travel is why I visit here. To share the whole experience, it should not have to be edited or politically correct. What you felt and observed as an outsider is quite relevant and educational. The photos are exceptional as is the journey. Cheers, Mich
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Post by Deleted on Jun 23, 2011 23:23:30 GMT
What shocks people is that I do not suffer from shock when bad things happen. Well, maybe a little, but within 24 hours I was laughing about it (to the horror of my friends). I can understand that K. I'm much the same. Nothing affects me for too long. I ponder about it, mull it over and then carry on as usual.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 23, 2011 23:29:40 GMT
I agree with mich. I always pay attention to Kerouac's threads because they are so 'real'. Wouldn't want it any other way.
That is an eye opener of me, Tod, I appreciate you explaining that. Over here we hear very little about what is happening for the every day folk over in South Africa. It's amazing how life can change so much for so many people over time...
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Post by hwinpp on Jun 24, 2011 2:12:55 GMT
Apparently the head of the ANC youth wing has said the government should just nationalize white owned farms because it's been going too slowly.
If they really do it I see a second Zimbabwe on the horizon and a new mass exodus of whites to Australia and the UK.
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Post by tod2 on Jun 24, 2011 9:25:03 GMT
It could happen - anything is possible and not out of the question when it comes to rulers of African states. The one good thing is, Malema is recognised as a bloated blabber-mouth who enjoys the finer things in life including expensive jewelery. A lot of the black population are well aware of this and don't go along with his rantings. I guess there will always be young militant youths that are looking for an easy grasp on other peoples possessions. Where do we run to? Can't go anywhere unless you have big bucks and if its tied up in land like wine farms, and these days numerous Wild Game Farms, what can you do - Be a refugee?
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