Amsterdam

[ninchursanga]

All right. Some time ago I got inspired by my own Boston thread and thought I should also compile a travel thread about other places.

So here we are, I'll collect all my information and knowledge about Amsterdam; one of my homes away from home.
It has much more to offer than red-light district and coffee shops!

[bixaorellana]

Can't wait ~~ thanks, Nincursanga!

[tod2]

Me too! Any hands-on information would be great - I know we are only spending 3 nights in Amsterdam and three in Lisse, but it's a first time for me and so this is really going to be appreciated Nincursanga!

[Deleted]

I'll queue up for the info as well. I thought I knew Amsterdam rather well about 20 years ago, but in recent times I have hardly been there at all and usually only for a day.

[lagatta]

I've been travelling to Amsterdam at least once a year in the last decade, but not really for tourism. I've never been in a coffeeshop (in the marijuana sense) and only passed by the edges of the Red Light District, simply because it is in a central area (there are also interesting art exhibitions and concerts at the Oude Kerk). en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oude_Kerk

Tod, I'm sure you'd like the Tropenmuseum, which was once one of those places glorifying the colonial empire, and is now a very interesting and innovative anthropology museum with a wide variety of exhibitions. www.tropenmuseum.nl It also has a very nice café and restaurant. It is set in Oosterpark, one of the two big east-end parks (the other is Flevopark). Until recent years, that neighbourhood was pretty much off the tourist radar, except for the museum, but now there is a large StayOkay hostel nearby. Dappermarkt is the cheaper and more cosmopolitan of the street markets. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dappermarkt while the largest and most famous street market is Albertcuypmarkt, just south of the city centre in De Pijp en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Albert_Cuyp_Market

Of course there is also the Bloemenmarkt (floating flower market) - worth seeing as a tourist attraction, but you'll find your bouquets for a far better price at the other two markets I mentioned, where Amsterdamers shop.

The most beautiful urban park is Vondelpark, in the posh Oud Zuid neighbourhood. Watch out for the bicycles on the paths! en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vondelpark It is located very close by Museumplein, where the Rijksmuseum and the Van Gogh Museum are located.

[tod2]

Thank You Lagatta! I will make a note of ALL those hot tips!
Have you ever been for a dinner tour that starts with a 'starter course' at one restaurant, go for a walking tour before climbing aboard a boat to the next dinner venue, then ending off with pud somewhere else. About a three hour tour.
I am sorely tempted even though it is a major touristy thing to do. All at night.

[lagatta]

No, because when I'm there I'm working and doing research. When I go out for supper, it is most typically in the neighbourhood where I'm staying. And we have great fun.

I have NOTHING against major touristy things - they can be great fun. However, in terms of major touristy things, I'd MUCH prefer canal cruises. You really get a sense of the history and the beauty of the city that way. I've also done a bateau-mouche with a friend from here when in Paris - but NOT the one with the overpriced dinner. We saw the illuminations of historic buildings from the Seine. Then a late supper at a nearby small restaurant. Do you ride bicycles? That is another extremely typical thing to do - for Amsterdamers, it is simply how they get around, commute to work, shop for daily groceries (families might well drive out to a very large discount centre a couple of times a month for staples, or more if it is a large household).

Lots of people who are far from young - including many much older than you or me - stay in shape and do chores cycling there. But you do need a bit of preparation. The Netherlands and Denmark have the lowest rates of cycling injuries in the world, but in Amsterdam there are some accidents that almost always involve tourists - in particular cycle - tram collisions. These are fortunately rare, but tourists, of course, may simply not be used to a compact city with 14 or so tramlines and how to cross them safely (ALWAYS at right angles).

Amsterdam is a very compact city - if you are a good walker, you can do all the central parts on foot, if not in a hurry, with rests. If not so good, LOTS of tram lines, accessible to all, with announcements of stops visually and orally, to accomodate hearing and sight-disabled people, and are easy to board for people of all ages, or with small children.

Of course if you are the type to like pub crawls, the suppercrawl could be fun, but I'm much more housecat in my behaviour - if I'm having supper somewhere, I really don't want to move. At most having pud elsewhere if there is a special place for sweets (I'm not much for sweets actually - perhaps a real gelato) and above all, outstanding coffee or tea.

There are some special bakeries that do wonderful Dutch treats such as apple cake (I like that because it isn't very sweet - I'm fonder of savouries). You'll probably find Dutch Boerenworst rather bland though...

But it is your trip and could be a gas, just not my cup of tea.

Hope to also hear back from our friend ninchursanga, who lives in a city that is actually very close to mine, in the global sense. We are slightly closer to Boston than to Toronto, though alas the transport links are DREADFUL between the metropoli of New England and New France. Far better 60 years ago with a good train link - now the choice for those who don't drive is a horrible, slow, non-direct bus journey or a ridiculously overpriced flight (often more expensive than Mtl-Paris!!!)

[tod2]

Once again I am so grateful for all these good tips on Amsterdam!
The dinner thing is part of an hour canal cruise - looking at the buildings by lightbeam but I do think we get off and eat.
Definitely no biking for us whilst there - but I am hoping to drum up the courage to tackle a Velib when we get to Paris. Of course choosing a dead straight bike path to the next Velib station!!

[lagatta]

You also have to choose a route where there are safe, separated cycle paths, or very quiet streets, if you are unused to city cycling. For the nervous, I'd choose Amsterdam over Paris as the former has a "mature" cycling culture where most everyone cycles at times, including the drivers you encounter, and all (if they grew up in the Netherlands) have taken cycling training as part of their schooling. Paris has made extraordinary progress in becoming more friendly to cyclists, pedestrians and improving public transport - in particular reserved bus lanes and the new tramlines, but it has a long way to go to be as cyclist-friendly as Amsterdam, or Copenhagen.

I find "dinner" greatly increases the cost of canal cruises and usually is not worth it in terms of quality. Definitely do a canal cruise.

I believe that you are staying right near Centraal Station?

What do you like in terms of food? And any special interests? I believe a few of the most visited museums are still mostly closed for renovations/restructuring - most of the Rijksmuseum, and the Maritime Museum, but do check on this by looking at current online guides. And is there anything you are interested in picking up in the shops or markets?

[ninchursanga]

There's another Amsterdam expert here, how cool is that! This already looks like it's going to be a useful thread.
lagatta, if you go there frequently, do you know the city guides by Moleskine? They are little empty city guides that you fill with your own notes and I love them for places I go to frequently.

tod2, when are you going to Amsterdam? It may motivate me to speed up a bit and start writing.

Kerouac, big cities are always rapidly changing, I think. In the few years that I've moved away from there, Amsterdam has already changed.

[tod2]

ninchursanga, we fly into Frankfurt on 26 April and take the direct train to Amsterdam. After three nights we take the bus/train? to Lisse for three nights. Yesterday I booked our Thalys from Schipol to Gare de Nord for 2nd May.

I am keeping an eye on this thread very closely until then ;D

Lagatta we are staying at the DoubleTree by Hilton Hotel Amsterdam Centraal Station.
We are not picky eaters but hope to try the local food wherever and whenever we can. A great fall-back is Chinese food and eat it wherever I am! - mainly because it's always cheap and delicious.

Kerouac posted a Velib bike map and I have been checking out the stations on PagesJaunes, as well as the most direct route to the next velib station along a dedicated bike track.(not even buses!)
Not quite found the perfect one but have several 'maybe's'.

[ninchursanga]

If you're staying near Centraal Station I hope you don't mind construction work. They are building a new metro line and also did an overhaul of the entire area in, around and beyond Centraal Station.
The advantage is, that it'll be easy-peasy to get there from the airport and you've got all the tram/bus lines on your doorstep.

Last summer I compiled a long list for acquaintances who went there but just found out that I've deleted that mail. What a bugger, I could've copy and pasted in here. Well, I'll just start all over again.

[tod2]

Thanks for the tip-off about the construction - actually we don't mind at all. Just happy to be on holiday!! YAY! I think the hotel will more than make up for any inconvenience.

[Deleted]

I feel that I must plan a trip to Amsterdam soon although my next trip is planned to Mons, Belgium for obscure reasons that may become more evident a bit later.

[ninchursanga]

Alright, instead of putting everything, I'll post bit by bit and extend the thread.

De Gildeis a volunteer organisation that does walking tours. All the volunteers are retirees and all are highly educated. Meaning, your tour-guide will be a historian, or a sociologist and incredibly knowledgeable.
I've taken a tour with them and when I told the lady I've lived there for so long, she instantly adjusted her 'tour talk' and it was amazing what little details and stories she was able to tell!

The also offer tours in English and are very accommodating to the group (maybe to a lesser degree during tourist season)

www.gildeamsterdam.nl/stadswandelingen/algemene-informatie

There's a little link for English and you can make reservation over the net. Some of the tours have special topics like "Maritime Amsterdam" or "Jewish Amsterdam" - all are interesting.

A less known museum is 't Schip (the ship) which is dedicated to Amsterdam's very own architectural style called "de Amsterdamse school". The museum offers tours in English and the interesting thing here is that it's not devoted to grand architecture of the big canals but it's about how the working class lived.
www.hetschip.nl/

[ninchursanga]

Esnoga is the Portugese Synagogue of Amsterdam and dates back to the 17th century. It's open to visitors and well worth a visit. The site offers a lot of information about other Jewish landmarks in the city as well and also about all activities that are going on at the synagogue.
www.portugesesynagoge.nl/

While you are in the area you could also explore the "Plantagebuurt" - which calls itself the nicest neighbourhood of the Netherlands.
www.deplantageamsterdam.nl

The Hortus Botanicus is nice to visit on a rainy day, the temperature in the tropical glass house is always nice and the adjacent cafe is nice as well to take a break.

The Hermitage Amsterdam is a relatively new museum. I haven't been there but it's supposed to be very good. If it's just half as good than the real Hermitage, it must be worth a visit.

The Maritime Museum is at the periphery of the Plantagebuurt and also not bad. You'll learn all about the past of the seafarers.

Just a few steps away is the Nemo, the science centre makes a good excursion if you have kids with you. Or just climb up to the rooftop and enjoy the view! The building looks like a green sinking ship and has become a bit of a landmark. Funny enough, the architect didn't have a sinking ship in mind when he designed it. The building is supposed to mirror the tunnel, which runs underneath and cuts through the water to the North part of Amsterdam.

From the Nemo it's just a short walk to get behind Central Station where a new music venue, het muziekgebouw, was built less than a decade ago. It has some sleek, nice, modern architecture and good shows.
www.het-muziektheater.nl
The Dutch Opera and the National Ballet perform there and also the Dutch Dance Theatre. All of which have good shows. It's also worth checking to see if international artists perform.

You can buy tickets at the ticket office of the Amsterdam Uitburo at the Leidsesquare. It's a small shop next to the "Stadsschouwburg" which is the main theatre on the square.
The wonderful thing about that little ticketshop, tucked into the corner of the theatre's building is that the offer last minute tickets for events, 50% off and also can advice tourists. They also sell tickets for BoomChicago, which is an English stand-up comedy club.
www.lastminuteticketshop.nl/(Dutch only, but if you let me know when you go I could have a look what's going on)

[ninchursanga]

I AMsterdam is the cities 'corporate identity', designed to market the city to tourists.
www.iamsterdam.com/nl/visiting

The site contains all the information and more than you ever wanted or needed to know. If you want to know anything about the obvious museums like the Van Gogh Museum, Rijksmuseum or the Anne Frank Museum - it's all on here.
There is also a city pass available but I'd suggest you carefully plan ahead and calculate the budget to see if it's really worth it. It may sound attractive for instance that public transport is included, but Amsterdam is not a big city. It is very condensed and very walkable. You may find yourself never using public transport!

[ninchursanga]

Visiting in June and always wanted to know what's hidden behind those grande canal houses?
Then jot down Open Garden Days onto your to-do-list.
www.opentuinendagen.nl

For three days about 30 gardens will be open to the public. It's a must see, cause you'd never guess what beauty is hidden behind the canal houses.
Funny enough a lot of people think about this. But when you walk through the big canals, try to circle a block of houses that sits between two big canals. You'll notice that those blocks are huge, and there's no way this could all be stone and houses. They all have inner courtyards and many incredibly nice gardens, well hidden.

Not there in June but still want to take a 'peek'? The internet will have to do.
1. Go to www.google.nl
2. Search for images
3. Enter "grachtentuinen amsterdam"
Voila, this will yield a few pictures of what's hidden behind the canal houses.

[ninchursanga]

Do you like markets? Shop like a local at the Albert Cuypmarket, which is the biggest one in town, situated in "de Pijp", a neighbourhood that has undergone some serious gentrification and is very trendy now.
When the hustle and bustle of the market has tired you, there are many side streets with curious little shops, nice cafes - from rustic to uber trendy - as well as restaurants and bars.
www.albertcuypmarkt.nl

Less touristy but still busy is the "Dappermarkt", in the east part of town (remember Plantagebuurt? It's not far away from there). The market doesn't have its own internet site, but it's worth to have a look if you want to have the local market shopping experience.
The Dapperstraat (Dapperstreet) where the market is held every day, has been completely transformed. Nothing is left of the original buildings. They were all torn down and the area was re-designed.
One of Holland's most accomplished music bands "the Nits" has made a song about "Dapperstreet", with melancholic lyrics.

give me the sombre city highroads
the clouds are framed by attic windows
those are the words I long to hear
but when I walk I keep my tears from falling
and if you don't know where to go
you're lost in a dead end street

the houses fall down every day
but maybe someday I'll keep this house from falling
this is the street where I was living
this is the square where I was fighting
nobody fears the ball and chain
I feel the tears my memory lane is falling
and still I don't know where to go
I'm lost in a misty town
no poetry in dead end street

they tear all the houses down
when you walk in Dapperstreet
when you live in Dapperstreet
now it rains on broken windows
the streets are always wet
through all the empty alleys wind blows
you're never coming back
when you live in Dapperstreet

give me the sombre city highroads
the clouds are framed by attic windows
those are the words I long to hear
but when I walk I keep my tears from falling
and if you don't know where to go
you're lost in a misty town
no poetry in dead end street

they tear all the houses down
when you walk in Dapperstreet
when you live in Dapperstreet
now it rains on broken windows
the streets are always wet
through all the empty alleys wind blows
you're never coming back
when you live in Dapperstreet

city crime one grey morning
blissfuly happy I'm walking
city crime one grey morning
blissfuly happy I'm walking
city crime one grey morning
blissfuly happy I'm walking
suddenly happy in Dapperstreet

The lyrics were taken from a well-known poem "Domweg gelukkig in de Dapperstraat" - written by J.C. Bloem. One of the housing corporations has painted the poem on one of the new buildings just off the Dapperstraat.
So if you walk around the neighbourhood and come accross this building, you know that it is!

[ninchursanga]

More markets can be found throughout the city.
The "Noordermarkt" and the "Nieuwmarkt" host the city's farmer's market, all biological, artisan, and whatsoever. The markets are named after the squares where they where hold, or I should better say vice versa. The squares were named after the markets.
- the Noordermarkt btw. is worth a visit on monday's when it hosts a big second hand clothing market.
Also on monday mornings, the Westerstraat transforms into a huge market for textile materials. A heaven for anyone who sews! And good prices, too!

Of course there is also the Bloemenmarkt, the flower's market, located at the "Singel". Honestly I don't know anyone who goes there, except tourists. Never, ever have I known anyone who would even buy flowers there, except expats and tourists. But when you are in the area, it may be nice to walk through. Personally, I wouldn't send anyone there. But that's just imho.

If you are in for the curious, alternative then the market at Waterlooplein maybe yours. It's also very close to the Esnoga Synagogue and the Rembrandthuis (Rembrandt's house). Although also a bit of a tourist trap, it is still a place where locals also go to get some stuff.

At Spui there is a daily book market, although most books sold are in Dutch.

[ninchursanga]

The Amsterdam Museum is one of my favourites, cause it will teach you a lot about the city's history and always has different exhibitions centred around a theme.
www.amsterdammuseum.nl

For those who are interested in Amsterdam's history and want to get more serious, a nice read is "Amsterdam" by Dutch journalist/writer Geert Mak. The original title actually translates to 'a brief history of Amsterdam'.
www.amazon.com/Amsterdam-Geert-Mak/dp/0674003314
His other books are also worth reading, sadly his best seller "My father's century" hasn't been translated. But the book about "jouwerd" (an Island in Time) will be a nice read if you want to learn more about how drastically Holland has transformed.
I can't vouch for the translations though, cause I read in them in the original language.

[tod2]

Gosh, what a superb amount of information Ninchursanga - Thanks! I will print it out so I can refer to it on my Amsterdam visit

[ninchursanga]

Clubing is of course also possible. The nightlife and venues are ever changing, and I'm not that much up-to-date anymore. But I'll pass on whatever I know.

The "Paradiso" and the "Melkweg" are the most established and well-known ones. Paradiso used to be a church, the acoustics are not superb but it has more charm than any of the other venues. My favourite there as the thursday night's "Noodlanding" (Emergency Landing) when they play nice alternative, classic hits and the whole hall is just one big dance-floor.
www.paradiso.nl
www.melkweg.nl

For the lovers of modern dance club (music) there is "the Escape" - a long time favourite of the city's party folks.
www.escape.nl

"Hotel Arena" is not just - as the name suggests - a hotel, but also a restaurant, bar and club. It's been around for ages, but changed drastically. I'm not 100% sure but I think the building once was an orphanage. In the past it was referred to as "the Sleepin" and offered the cities cheapest accommodation: huge dorms where a bunk bed cost the budget traveller roughly 15 Euros. The cafe served as a neighbourhood joint and the dance hall hosted alternative dance parties and sometimes concerts.
Then the city's football club "Ajax" built a new, huge stadium and named it ....Arena. The SleepIn's official names has been Arena for a number of years, and they sued the stadium over the use of the name.
It was all settled with a large sum of money and from then on the alternative, low cost SleepIn slowly changed into a posh venue.
After they lost their old customers, the new ones came and they are still very popular!

"Vakzuid" is located in the old Olympic Stadium in the South of Amsterdam. For tourists it may be a bit out of the way, but hey, Amsterdam's really not that big.
If you're into modern dance clubs, this ranges among the Hotel Arena and the Escape.
www.vakzuid.nl

"Trouw" is another fairly new addition. It is situated in the old building of the newspaper "Trouw". It has an industrial setting and also hosts a restaurant.
www.trouwamsterdam.nl

The "Westergasfabriek" is a successful transformation of a former gas factory, situated in the "Westerpark" in the - you may guess it - west part of Amsterdam. The whole area of Amsterdam West wasn't very attractive but there's been a lot of gentrification going on. The whole area of the former factory hosts now all kind of venues, shops, restaurants, etc.
www.westergasfabriek.nl

[ninchursanga]

tod2, you better refill your cartridge - I'm not done yet ;D

[Deleted]

Great stuff, ninchursanga! I'm really amazed that Paradiso and Melkweg are still around after 40 years! Most clubs in most cities have a lifespan of about 5 years.

[ninchursanga]

Nice, I found my other list of links on the old computer. Once I'm done with all my mid-terms I'll add some more stuff, mainly restaurants and cafes.

[lagatta]

Of course I studied social history and am involved in urbanistic stuff, so I've been to Het Schip - that is a museum about how the working class lived but especially about the new social housing schemes from a century ago - a very specific Amsterdam style, different from the German Bauhaus or the "Hof" developments in Vienna. If you are interested in social history, Amsterdam has one of the largest social history libraries in the world, the International Institute of Social History www.iisg.nl That is in the same neighbourhood as Dappermarkt and Tropenmuseum, but on new dockland developments (it was a big warehouse, which has the capacity for all those heavy old books and other "documents"). The newest StayOkay hostel is in that area, and hires out bicycles. If you want to stay in a "real" hotel in that area, there is a quality one right by Tropenmuseum and Oosterpark. (I forget the exact name but it is easy to google).

The Portuguese synagogue is right across the street from the Jewish Historical Museum, which is also made up in part of former synagogues www.jhm.nl I find its interest depends greatly on what temporary exhibitions are showing, as most of the permanent exhibitions are stuff like objects from synagogues - I don't have a lot of interest in the ritual objects of any religion, but others might. There is a kosher café, if anyone reading keeps kosher.

In the little square behind the Portuguese synagogue (opposite the Jewish Historical Museum) don't miss the statue of a burly dokwerker - this docker represents the workers who took part in the first political strike against the Nazi roundups of Jews (and there were few Jewish workers among the dock and transport workers - most were in the press, garment, casual workers at and around the ghetto market, or the most skilled and best off in the diamond trades). Obviously, many of the strikers were murdered or jailed by the Gestapo.

Also in the neighbourhood, the Resistance Museum www.verzetsmuseum.org/museum/en/museum (The Dutch site, without the /en , is much more extensive of course).

Oh dear, I clicked on the website of the adjacent Plancius café, and it says it is closed. That is a pity - I loved that place. Hope it is just undergoing renovations...

[amboseli]

Good info on Amsterdam, thanks! I sometimes just take the train in my village north of Antwerp to spend a day in Amsterdam and have lunch with a friend. Love the city, especially Amsterdam Zuid neighbourhood.

[patricklondon]

Another suggestion: you can make yourself a sort of circular tour of the city centre by tram, taking the 5 one way and the 16 or 24 the other, changing at Central Station and the Concertgebouw. One way to rest the feet.

I'd also suggest trying out the City Lit series of anthologies about different cities. I haven't read the Amsterdam one, but the one on Berlin was excellent:
www.oxygenbooks.co.uk/amsterdam.htm

[tod2]

Fantastic stuff here! Problem is I'm only there for three days! At least it will impart an overall flavour of Amsterdam and leave loads to come back for

Patrick: I really like that idea of a circular tour by tram! Thanks for the tip.