Montmartre: Fête des Vendanges 2012 and 2013 (by kerouac2)

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This week was the 79th Fête des Vendanges in Montmartre. It is the 3rd biggest event in Paris after the Fête de la Musique and the Nuit Blanche in terms of the numbers of visitors, although in my opinion I think it will probably slip into 4th place if it has not done so already, behind Chinese New Year.

The vendanges are the annual grape harvests throughout France with different dates everywhere depending on the latitude, altitude and the year's weather. Paris has one "real" vineyard left (there are numerous miniature ones for show in some of the public parks) which still produces a few bottles of wine. The wine is sold for charity and nobody really cares about the (infamously terrible) quality of Clos Montmartre vintages. The festival, unlike the other big events of Paris, is not organised by the city of Paris but only by the municipal council and mayor of the 18th arrondissement, so it is really a local event. All profits from the events go to the social services of the 18th arrondissements, so probably this event finances those strange spectacles that are put on in my mother's nursing home, as well as the Christmas chocolates and other goodies.

The regions of France are also invited to present (and sell) their products, and they also provide music and dancing. The schools of the 18th arrondissement always have "tasting initiation" sessions this week so that some of the children can taste items that they will never get at home or at McDonald's. One day is devoted entirely to chocolate, so that is obviously a great success.

I thought it was only fitting to begin my visit this year at the vineyard on rue Saint Vincent. It is not open to the public, but at least it is fully visible from the street due to the slopes of Montmartre.

It is right across the street from the Lapin Agile restaurant and cabaret.





It is a very bucolic part of Montmartre.

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It did not take long to climb up to where the fête was in progress.







Parisians avoid this area like poison during peak season but it is nice at this time of year.





I was given some nice molten chocolate for a start.



Then I moved on to the cheese and wine. This area was all free thanks to a corporate sponsor.















Even the tourists traps look appealing now.

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I then looked at a few of the 160 regional food stands.







music from time to time, of course















I really wanted some oysters but I was on my way to a dinner invitation...







Giant mushrooms were grilling... mmmm

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I was getting hungry, my stomach having been triggered by the wine I had consumed.

















If there had not been a line, I would have had some snails. A dozen for 6€.



Time to go back downhill to meet the other friends for dinner. I was the last to arrive...

[bjd]

I walked through last year in the afternoon with FMT. It was raining and I wasn't really impressed enough to go back this year.

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Saturday afternoon, I decided to try to see the parade as soon as I was free of my usual chores. The only problems were that it was raining (but I had an umbrella, so that was not a real problem) and I had no idea where to find the parade. I knew that it started at Jules Joffrin at 15:00 and that it ended at the Halle Saint Pierre at 18:00, but what path would it take? That certainly was not a distance that could last 3 hours, even walking slowly.

I used my instincts at 16:00 and arrived on rue Caulaincourt at exactly the same time as the festivities.

There were women pretending to be beauty queens.



But mostly, there were all of the various confréries in their finery.









I enjoy amateur parades because people just have fun and don't worry about being organised.









Naturally, there were also about a half dozen marching bands.

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Some people look like they were born for this type of event.

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[photobucket height=480 width=640]http://s450.photobucket.com/albums/qq228/kerouac2/Paris%2018/?action=view¤t=46a010f1.pbw[/photobucket]

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The rain had stopped and the sun came out!







The police were on hand to protect us.





Wine was provided for the spectators. Yay!

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Everybody seemed so happy to be there. Good for them! (I was happy, too.)

Oh, here's Michou, one of the biggest celebrities of Montmartre. At age 81, he runs the principal drag queen cabaret show in Paris and has done so since the 1960's. His finely brushed blond hair and his blue jackets are his trademark. Naturally, he has been awarded the Légion d'Honneur for his service to French culture. Apart from that, he and his long time companion Erwann are big supporters of Nicolas Sarkozy and appeared at his side at one of the main campaign events in 2007. I can't help but think that this sort of supporter would not be welcome in quite a few other countries, but no problem in France.

We arrived in rue des Abbesses, the most popular street of Montmartre.

[lola]

This is wonderful, Kerouac.

I wonder how many bottles the Montmartre vineyard yields? And what's chocolate a l'ancienne? Whatever it is, I'm in favor of it.

Love a parade! Love this one especially. Are some of the confreries from outside Paris? They somehow look like it, in a contented sort of way. I might choose mine based on costume. The strawberry guys for instance might envy the ones with sweeping velvet cloaks.

[Deleted]

I think that about one thousand 70 cl bottles a year is the maximum production. It is made in the cellars of the mairie of the 18th arrondissement!

And, yes, a number of the confréries are from out of town -- for example, the pictured one for the "dragées de Verdun" -- Verdun is the principal city that produces sugar coated almonds (dragées), which are a traditional gift to the guests at weddings and baptisms.

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No amateur parade is complete without its taek-wan-do teams.

[mossie]

A great pity it rained on the parade. at least the sun came out later to cheer things up.
People looked as if they were enjoying themselves, whatever.

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We were nearing the end of the route, just below Sacré Coeur.

















We have almost arrived at the arrival point.



Okay, here is the video of the people in action.

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A few more groups approached the Halle Saint Pierre.







The representatives of the Republic of Montmartre awaited them.



















more music!







The official participants disappeared in here, probably to get soused.

Later, I returned for another event...

[patricklondon]

Looks like some serious effort went into the event, and great fun as a result. I hate to think how half-hearted some things organised by our local borough councils might be.

Kerouac, I wonder if there's some rule that such events always have to include a large man with an exuberant moustache and some sort of percussion instrument? I once came across, quite by chance, an official mass walk around central Paris on a Sunday morning (some sort of health promotion thing, I imagine) with roads closed and thousands of people taking part: and there were regional groups there with their food stalls and so on - and a group of Savoyards, complete with several large men with large moustaches, with non-stop handbells to ring people on their way.

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I decided to return to see the fireworks that evening. In the past when I have gone for that, I have been at the top of the butte Montmartre right in front of Sacré Coeur. This time I decided to find out what it looked like from the bottom, with Sacré Coeur as a backdrop.

People were streaming to the area, as they always do on a Saturday night, with or without fireworks.



I got a place right up against the fence.



Zoomed in to see how it looked, but this is my backup camera with the less efficient zoom.



The crowd continued to build.



And the show began.













Fireworks photos are like potato chips. You can't take just one.











And here are the fireworks in action with the accompanying music.

Sunday it was raining too much to see the final activities, of which the high point is the "non-marriage vows" at Place des Abbesses. The participants individually promise to never marry each other in a very official ceremony, and this is followed by a big ball for the non-newlyweds and everybody else. Maybe next year...

[LouisXIV]

Another reason to return to Paris, thanks, great photos.

[lugg]

Fabulous K2 , really enjoyed reading this . How lovely that all continued with a sense of enjoyment despite the rain.


Did you notice which product the smalll group in red and yellow were supporting ( #12), I wondered if it was honey / bees ? I smiled at the health and safety conscious rakes and spades and envied you the free wine. I would not have been able to resist some of the foods on offer. Finally spectacular fireworks

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I know that the group in black and yellow were supposed to be bees, but I did not see any sign for them. Since every group appears to be autonomous, they are organised as much or as little as they want. I kind of hope that it stays they was because if it every becomes too official, it won't be as much fun.

[lugg]

Did you notice which product the smalll group in red and yellow were supporting


Yikes - must drink more of my am tea before I post

At least you still understood the qu K2 ;D

[mossie]

A wonderful fun event, many thanks Kerouac for bringing it to us.
Like Patrick I dread to think what a similar event here would be like. The politically correct prats and the elfin safety brigade would stifle it.

[bixaorellana]

Oh gosh, this looks like so much fun! Wonderful pictures, Kerouac -- you really captured the zest of the occasion. Your people portraits are outsanding & the fireworks are woweee.

But the oysters ~~ what beauties! *desire* The mushrooms are also gorgeous.

You say this was the 79th Fête des Vendanges, but isn't it probable that this was a festival before it became official? Whatever, it's a joyous report. Thanks!

[nycgirl]

How fun! I would've loved the free cheese and wine tasting, free stuff tastes better. I also would've been tempted by the escargot. Such reasonable prices.

The fireworks are spectacular. Well done capturing them.

[Deleted]

I didn't take full advantage of this year's fête, but here are a few photos of the food stands, etc.





I still find the twilight view from the top of Montmartre a bit magical.



I ate and drank nothing, but the urge was definitely ignited.





















And in spite of all of the touristy crap, Montmartre is still charming, in my opinion.









Here is the infamous new Starbucks, trying to be discreet.









There was a half moon last night.



Going back down the hill, the little restaurants remain appealing. Most of them are not tourist traps.



I stayed around for the fireworks, so here they are.

Due to the music accompanying the fireworks, YouTube tells me that the video may not be available in all countries.

[woody77]

Nice! I wish I knew more about these events before they happened. I would have loved to have seen the parade or gone to the food stands.

[kerouac2]

When I see that some of these reports are 10 years old and in many cases I have not even returned since back then (living less than 2km from the event!), it frightens me.