Kruger Revisited

[tod2]

Difficulty obtaining visas for Europe always creates an excuse to have a short break in Kruger National Park as it's only approx. 4hrs drive from Johannesburg........home of all visas!

We were last here in November 2011 with friends from England.
In January an almighty cyclone hit the East coast at Mozambique causing rivers in Kruger to disgorge millions of tons of water throughout the park. Here is our February impressions after the storm.

A very early start as it's a long long way....but hey!Look at this sunrise!


First encounters with dangerous road conditions started when we went across this low bridge.


The same bridge viewed from another angle - we could see the storm drains, although quite large, could not cope and the soil around them washed away.


Next - the long high bridge over the Sabie river in quite an entangled state. This is where two rivers meet, the Sand & Sabie rivers. Near Skukuza Camp.




Water did this??


img191.imageshack.us/img191/1586/img1118z.jpg[/img]





It's not the width of the Mississippi or Amazon rivers but it is pretty wide all the same.


I thought this was sand deposited on top of the tar - until I saw where the tar had landed up...




It's 4pm in the afternoon and at last we arrive at our camp - Lower Sabie. Because of the closed roads we had to drive from Malelane Gate, up the main tar road( the H3) to Skukuza, then across the Sabie river and down the H4-1 main tar road to camp.


No time is lost in grabbing a bottle of the 'good stuff' and a wine glass, and heading to the nearby Sunset Dam to relax and unwind.


Next morning revealed more storm damage at the Causeway bridge across the Sabie.


This link will show vehicles crossing the same causeway during the storm: It's worth clicking on a few more for some frightening scenes!
www.timeslive.co.za/scitech/2012/01/19/kruger-national-park-now-80-functional





This cute baby elephant wasn't bothered about anything as he mock charged us and trumpted loudly!


And yes, it's marula time again as was evident in the elephant poo everywhere.


And the trees at camp.



Water water everywhere.



After 2 nights we moved north and a new restcamp at Orpen Gate.
This is the same camp where the Honey Badger came calling every night ......and he and his mates are still causing havoc!









We spotted many Bee-Eaters - they are so beautiful!

[tod2]

There were some very pretty little veld flowers here and there.


















Near to Orpen gate on a dusty side road (S140) is Rabelais Hut. Named after the French satirist, this small one hut museum is left entirely up to the individual to lock-up by shutting the door when you have had a look around. There is no protection from wild animals whilst emerging from one's vehicle - so don't dilly-dally about!










The photos are mostly dedicated to the Orpen family who donated 7 farms to make up a large section of Kruger Park.




Kruger has so many unusual trees - You just have to photograph a few!






Early one morning we were so lucky to come across an entire pack of Wild Dogs! They are not easy to find in the park.






I absolutely love their unusual colouring!


They decided to have a liedown in the road.




More wild flowers...








This mother monkey was taking her baby's cleanliness to heart!




Vulture babies in the nest.




The vegetation was changing and becoming more tropical as we changed camps for the last time. Satara Rest camp is nearer to Mozambique but on the same latitude as Orpen.




We were butted right up against the perimeter fence.

[tod2]

And just when we almost gave up on ever seeing The BIG Five, we literally fell over this lioness - who never flinched at the closeness she was to us.












Yet another Carmine Bee-eater.












A type of tree orchid I suspect...


Early mornings in the park made the thousands upon thousands of spider webs shimmer like gold in the early sunlight.






Don't know the name of this one..


We felt quite sorry for this turtle with an obvious growth on the one eye.
















The fish pond at Skukuza....






This little Scops owl has been living in this tree for at least 15years! He had a mate but naughty children threw stones at it oneday and killed it. (some peoples kids need a good whipping).


A few more photos to come........

[Deleted]

All I can say at the moment is MAGNIFICENT! -- but I'll get back with some more comments later.

[mich64]

So many wonderful photos Tod! The lioness is so elegant and the wild pack of dogs do have an unusual coloring, very nice! Not to partial to the spiders, but nice pictures of them.

How even children would be so ignorant enough to throw rocks at an animal is beyond my comprehension. I just can not imagine it happening and when I do it makes me angry and sad.

The damage to the parks infrastructure was quite significant. It is not just the fast moving water that does all that damage, it is what it drags along with it that bends or breaks everything in its path.

How fortunate you are to have such a beautiful park this close to your home.

Cheers!

[Deleted]

I love all of the photos of the flowers which my mind wants to call "spring flowers" even though I know they are "late summer blooms." I already knew that you were our #1 bird photographer, but I would also like to crown you as our #1 anal inspection photographer.

I think I my favourite photo is of the dead tree in the lake at sunset. Are those huge nests in it or something else?

And some of those other trees look they have had very difficult lives.

[bixaorellana]

This is an enormous treat, Tod! You have such an eye. Really, even the devastation is beautiful in the photographs.

Mar 14, 2012 14:04:27 GMT tod2 said:

this lioness - who never flinched at the closeness she was to us.

Really? In her second picture, she's obviously looking at y'all & wondering, "Shall I have fries with that?"

I had no idea there were wild dogs like the ones you show. That picture of three of them with their radar ears all cocked in the same direction is great. Well, all of them are.

It's great to see the wildflowers along with the wildlife. Can't wait to see what else you have to show.

[nycgirl]

Sensational photos! I especially love the ones of the gorgeous bee eaters, the regal lioness, and those twisted, spooky-looking tress. And that baby elephant is adorable. I would have been so delighted if a baby elephant fake-charged my car!

Poor owl, he must be lonely without his girl. That is so sad and outrageous that those stupid kids killed a helpless little owl.

The destructive power of floods is pretty incredible. I hope no one was hurt.

Can't wait to see more of this!

[tod2]

Big thank you all! Kerouac, I am delighted and accept my crown gracefully as the #1 Anal Inspection photographer......now, I have to be on the lookout for more arses!
I think a lot of those 'flowers' are actually weeds but who cares - they brightened up a few spaces along the roads.
The dead tree in the middle of Sunset Dam has old "Sociable Weaver " nests. They keep adding to them when it's breeding time so the mass increases all the time.

Mich, I hope you like the next lot as well!

Bixa, I was driving along a dirt road - 20km speed - arm out the window, when I slowly drew up next to this rock and looked sideways at the lioness, only a few feet away! This is all I said to Mr.Tod "Oh, there's a lion next to me"! She must have been stuffed after eating something (although no blood sticking to her fur around the mouth) because all she wanted to do is snooze and eventually turned her back on us.

Nycgirl - Apparently there were no fatalities or animals hurt. Hard to believe if you watched some of those UTube videos! My that water was raging

I will carry on tomorrow.

[fumobici]

This photo thread is a delight. Thank you soooo much!

[tod2]

More havoc caused by the cyclone was evident as we moved northwards and called in at Olifants Rest Camp. The Olifants river is pretty big and from this damaged causeway must have been a sight for sore eyes.


Pretty far across too!








This was the fence between our hut and the hyena that strolled past while this steak was on the coals!



Two Secretary birds spotted, quite far into the grass unfortunately.








A Red-backed Shrike - quite a pretty little bird and in abundance too.


Feeding time at the zoo.....err sorry , meant Kruger Park! Mama Waterbuck and calf.


Junior having a quick slurp.


Dad Waterbuck having a lie down.


Oi, I think there's a bird in my eye!


Charlie, it's me Oxie the Oxpecker, remember?!


Now hold still, this won't hurt a bit!


Woodland Kingfisher


This one came to have a bath ina small birdbath someone had placed near the fence outside our hut.




Also hanging out at our hut everyday was this Hornbill.


So many yellow flowers...
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Just as we were leaving the park on Sunday an opportunity to see elephants having a bath.








A pride of lions lying in the morning sun.




One of them entered the cave-like entrance under the palm - could she be having a litter or had a small cub inside?


And finally, the ONE and ONLY rhino we saw the entire week we were in the park! What a beauty.




That evening a wonderful dinner in the Bull Ring Balalaika Hotel, Sandton, where the menu is listed in stocks and shares!
View from our room:


Thats all she wrote.......

[bjd]

Lovely pics, Tod. I like those pale yellow flowers with the dark centres, and the bee-eaters which have such great colours.

Are floods like those you mention common? Other than destroying man-made infrastructure, do they benefit wildlife and vegetation by supplying large amounts of water?

[mickthecactus]

Abolutely stunning tod - thanks so much.

[tod2]

Thank you both!

To answer your question bjd - No not common at all. The last cyclone hit the Mozambique coastline in 2000 and caused terrible flooding. I am not sure but think that was something to do with an El Nino.
This cyclone ( I don't even know if it had a name?) seemed to come out of the blue.
The water that remains is certainly welcome. The waterholes are all full and so it the natural water table of the land. Kruger Park suffers terrible droughts but the animals all have man-made drinking holes scattered throughout the park. Problem is the vegetation dies and there is little to eat.
Even elephants have been known to strip bark off trees for food.

[Deleted]

This just keeps getting better and better.

I did read in the articles that this is considered to be a good thing for Kruger rather than a catastrophe. Places without water got plenty of water and lots of stuff got washed away that needed to be washed away. I am certain that the vegetation will be absolutely spectacular next spring.

The animals will be fat on the lush grass or the fat prey.

[bixaorellana]

Just wonderful, Tod!

Even though the twisted railing pictures were impressive, the pictures of Oliphants really bring home the force of the cyclone.

Love how you show the beauty of both the large and magnificent and the small and exquisite. Your pictures of flowers or giant animals are equally enjoyable. And we already knew your bird pictures are fabulous -- what a treat to get more of them. Your captions are great, really fun. The photo of the oxpecker on the African buffalo (?) is charming.

I'm glad you had the close encounter with the lioness, & even gladder you could type about it with both arms! The pride pictures are stupendous. What are those oddly shaped rocks near them in their first pic, please?

In lean times, do more animals move into the refuge, or are they kept out to maintain balance in the park?

[nycgirl]

Yay, more photos! It's so cool you got to see a rhino. They must be a rare find, huh? Have you ever spotted a leopard before?

I'd love to go to Kruger one day and your accommodations look very pleasant. How much did you pay per night?

Thank you so much for sharing these wonderful images! You're so lucky to live near such a wonderful park, and we're lucky to be able to live vicariously through you.

[onlymark]

I got so fed up over the years not seeing rhinos that I specifically visited a rhino park in Botswana so I could get a good view of them.
Leopards a difficult thing to catch sight of as well.
It'd be better if they could change their spots.

[Deleted]

I saw rhinos on my safari in Kenya, more than once.

[bjd]

I saw rhinos in Kenya too -- no leopards though.

How lucky you are, Tod, to be able to see elephants, lions and other wild animals like that just by driving a few hours!

[onlymark]

Mar 18, 2012 16:26:14 GMT kerouac2 said:

I saw rhinos on my safari in Kenya, more than once.

Yes, they were a lot more common between the wars.

[tod2]

I believe 3 rhinos were slaughtered in the week we were there! Here is some interesting news:
tinyurl.com/7oatzfb

[lugg]

Fantastic photos Tod. Your ellie pics really illustrated to me what I had read about how to tell the difference between African and Asian ( Indian) ellies as in the shapes of the ears resembling the respective countries.
The last link to the slaughter of Rhinos is so awful