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Russia
Sept 26, 2013 5:38:12 GMT
Post by bixaorellana on Sept 26, 2013 5:38:12 GMT
I apologize for taking so long to comment on this monumental, surprising, and absolutely fascinating addition to WaterHazardJack's thread, Questa.
"sleeping with the fishes" ~~ good one! Ditto your remark on the serfs and the conspicuous consumption of the "higher" classes.
Your pictures are great, which is a good thing, as I really have to scrutinize them to take in their singular exoticism. I think my favorite might be the ceramic panel in the metro station, as it seems to sum up so much Russian history and esthetic. But it's all wonderful, from the marzipan churches to the ott palaces to the country villages and very especially to that ride through Siberia -- so big, so empty, so full of history. I really envy you that!
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Russia
Sept 26, 2013 6:40:26 GMT
Post by questa on Sept 26, 2013 6:40:26 GMT
Thank you so much Bixa...the journey gets more beautiful now.
I am having to cull out dozens of already culled pics to bring you the ones that show the trip without you getting bored.
My adult sons used to say, "I don't want to see your holiday snaps, just the best 10." It has left me with a complex that no-one else would appreciate them.
Irkutsk is a gem of a city in more ways than one. The surrounding countryside is full of gemstones, and I bought 6 little gemstone elephants for my collection.
The city is lively and has some great buildings, specially the old timber ones.
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Russia
Sept 26, 2013 8:11:28 GMT
Post by questa on Sept 26, 2013 8:11:28 GMT
Welcome to Irkutsk, a city that, underneath its happy face, has the highest rate of HIV-AIDS and drug addiction in Russia. The railway station Administration buildings Street vendors Getting around is easy Main street It looks comfortable City Square Bridge and ferries cross the river Early morning cleaners Keep things clean and tidy. There is a huge indoor market where everything can be bought. Water, however, comes to the local pump for some. Lots of pretty girls of all ages. Lots of lovely wooden houses, too. This one is a "handyman's delight"-needs a little work! Next stop will be a village of lovely old timber houses being carefully restored to historical accuracy.
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Russia
Sept 26, 2013 19:14:52 GMT
Post by htmb on Sept 26, 2013 19:14:52 GMT
I think many of here can honestly say we want to see much more than your "ten best snaps."
I still continue to enjoy your photos and descriptions very much!
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Russia
Sept 28, 2013 12:52:51 GMT
Post by questa on Sept 28, 2013 12:52:51 GMT
HTMB..thank you for your encouragement.I was a bit concerned everyone was sick of Russia
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Russia
Sept 28, 2013 13:50:29 GMT
Post by questa on Sept 28, 2013 13:50:29 GMT
After leaving Irkutsk we travelled towards Lake Baikal. This old village fortress is in restoration, with hopes that Russian as well as foreign tourists will travel the thousands of Km to see it. It was a genuine fortified post but only this wall is now standing. But the locals are ready to repel the marauding Mongols. Some close-up details. I was impressed by the manner of building these houses. After the logs were closely fitted, both inside and out, the small spaces between the logs were caulked with a mixture of earth and animal dung which hardens like concrete and keeps the draughts out. They have a small chapel and now a larger church...all timber. A school of yesteryear A samovar of tea for the teacher. and water for the kids. hand washing facilities as well. we can go inside The lady is playing a zither type instrument. The animals would have lived in these barns The grass roof aids in insulation. and in winter there was a ski slope to play on.
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Russia
Sept 29, 2013 1:30:07 GMT
Post by Deleted on Sept 29, 2013 1:30:07 GMT
What great looking log houses in the village. I always find that no matter how they look on the outside, log houses always look and feel like cabins on the inside.
I Like the picture of the Asian and European hats, that certainly says a lot. I once rented an apartment in a large house owned by Russians. Very nice people who looked more Asian then European.
You have a great way of taking photos where you capture every day life so very well. I enjoyed viewing these.
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Russia
Sept 29, 2013 7:08:21 GMT
Post by lugg on Sept 29, 2013 7:08:21 GMT
What a fascinating thread from WaterHazardJack's original posts right through to your journey Questa.
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Russia
Sept 29, 2013 7:37:54 GMT
Post by questa on Sept 29, 2013 7:37:54 GMT
Well, here are the last of the Russia photos, and it is beautiful Lake Baikal. This lake is so big it creates its own climate. It holds one sixth of all the fresh water in the world. We went for a bit of a cruise around the shoreline The lake makes its own clouds...it was quite eery Past the school A new tourist hotel and a poorly photographed church! Fishing boats behind log breakwater, the lake can get stormy. Then past the village of real, lived in log houses. I tried my hand at an "arty" photo. We went back to Irkutsk city and said goodbye to the Trans-Siberian Express and took the Trans- Mongolian Express to Ulaan Bataar....but that is another story for another day.
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Russia
Sept 29, 2013 10:54:25 GMT
Post by questa on Sept 29, 2013 10:54:25 GMT
Thank you, Lugg. It is good to see it through different eyes. It is a huge country and I feel that this has been an epic for me!
I think I'll tackle my Iran trip next on the off-chance that not many Anyporters have seen this amazing country. All that stuff we had to learn in Ancient History comes alive.
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Russia
Sept 29, 2013 11:59:17 GMT
Post by htmb on Sept 29, 2013 11:59:17 GMT
This has been a most interesting thread!
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Russia
Sept 30, 2013 3:17:09 GMT
Post by fumobici on Sept 30, 2013 3:17:09 GMT
Indeed it has. What a sumptuous collection of images.
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Russia
Oct 27, 2013 4:03:25 GMT
Post by waterhazardjack on Oct 27, 2013 4:03:25 GMT
Bit of a shock tonight when I stumbled on an old report of mine that has been 'missing' on TT for over a year now, but has magically been 'recovered'...over 4 years old now, but the mechanics don't change too much and these questions about how to navigate the 'Golden Ring' never seem to go out of fashion... RUSSIA REPORT - GOLDEN RING (September 2009)
First of all, many thanks to all contributors on matters Russian but especially Everbrite and Altona whose info I principally relied upon…I’ll try and confine this report to info that may be useful to other travellers in the same region rather than get into travelogue territory…
Spent a week on the Golden Ring, over-nighting in Vladimir (1), Suzdal (2), Kostroma (1) and Rostov Veliky (2) with half-days in Yaroslavl and Sergiev Posad...
Travelled between September 10th - 17th...weather was terrific throughout, sunshine every day averaging 25 degrees or so...can highly recommend this time of year to anyone thinking of venturing into the Russian heartland...
VLADIMIR (Thursday)
Took the Elektrichka (local suburban train) at 14.01 from Moscow's Kurskaya station to Vladimir. Journey takes 3 and a half hours. Allow yourself at least 30 minutes to get your bearings, buy a ticket and find the train as this is a popular service and the queue for tickets can be long. Apparently there are buses that leave as well from nearby but location is difficult to find. From the train station in Vladimir walk up the steep hill past the bus station til you get to the main thoroughfare. The very fine Hotel Vladimir is on the corner on your right. Turn left onto Ulitsa Bolshaya Moskovskaya which has all the main attractions along its kilometre length or so.
Stayed at the friendly budget Hotel Zarya which is approx 15 minutes walk from city centre. Dined out in The Hotel Vladimir later on that evening as they were exceptionally helpful to me when I called earlier despite staying elsewhere. Excellent and reasonably priced food and drink in the outdoor café at the rear. Finished the night in one of the Karaoke bars on the main street where all was in full swing when I arrived at 1am or so...
Although the received wisdom is to afternoon in Vladimir and hurry on to Suzdal that evening I was real glad I stayed over here as it’s far more atmospheric at night, particularly in the park surrounding the 2 cathedrals and overlooking the river where the local populace congregate and socialise in typical Russian alfresco style.
Vlad is the quintessential Russo-Soviet city. An old and historic main street running a kilometre or so in length with most of the historic attractions along it surrounded by Prospekt upon Prospekt and a plethora of Apartmentii housing something like 360,000 ppl. But going by my experience it’s a party place and the locals are very friendly to strangers after sundown when all the day-trippers have left…
Cost of Train - (Moscow - Vladimir) - 260R Hotel Zarya - (Single Room/Ensuite with TV) - 840R (cheaper rooms are also available but sell out earlier). Hotel Vladimir - Good hotel. Cheapest room available was 2000R when I called. Also another impressive hotel halfway down the main street at the same price (2000R).
SUZDAL (Friday/Saturday)
Took the bus to Suzdal from station (adjacent to train station) in Vladimir the next day. Buses every half-hour or so and journey takes approx 1 hour. Don’t get off at the bus station in Suzdal as it is about 2kms from town centre but stay on board until it comes to the intersection in the centre of town opposite Torgovoy centre. (2nd stop, I think). Stayed at the brand new Godzillas hostel which is far down on the riverbank. Print out the directions from the web-site as the location is not obvious. As you walk down there you may think there is nothing further down this dirt track but it’s there alright near the very end. Excellent hostel in the making presided over by the lovely Dezhurnaya Larissa from Ukraine (no English spoken but you’ll be OK). No internet yet when I was there but that will change no doubt. No curfew either, Larissa will admit you no matter how late you come back - 6 and 7am respectively in my case!
You can also stay cheap in St Basil’s monastery close to the bus station if you’d prefer a more authentic experience akin perhaps to a genuine pilgrim…
Excellent nightspot to have some beers and meet the locals is Landsia disco bar on the right-hand side heading north up Ulitsa Lenina. Also there is live music some nights at the basement bar in the south end of the Torgovoy centre. There is a small supermarket on the main street which opens late and has just about all you need.
Suzdal really is a magical place to spend a day or two. The absence of street lighting gives an eerie edge to the evening twilight. I’ve never experienced an atmosphere like this with some of the old cathedrals almost vaporising in the background as the sun declined.
Cost of Bus - (Vladimir - Suzdal) - 48R
Godzillas - (4 bed dorm) - 750R per night. St Basil’s monastery - 900R Hotel Rizopolozhenskaya - 1200R
KOSTROMA (Sunday)
To get to Kostroma you can take the daily direct connection or take the bus to Ivanovo and then change over to the Kostroma service. There are buses every hour or so from Suzdal to Ivanovo and many connections from there to Kostroma so this is not as daunting as it seems. I did it on a Sunday and there was plenty of transport on each leg of the journey - so no worries about getting stuck in infamous Ivanovo! Bus station in Kostroma is long way from centre (approx 4/5kms) so grab a Marshrutka directly outside, most of which go through the centre.
Stayed at the very basic boat hotel Korvet which is in a good location and not quite as dubious as I’ve read here and there. No breakfast but there is a selection of cafes and food stands directly outside.
Kostroma itself is a stately old place in an outstanding riverside location with an impressive city centre for strolling and relaxing; plentiful green areas, popular promenade and many historic buildings.
A good night-time option for non-Russian speakers is the brand new Kino-Teatr on main drag, Ulitsa Sovietskaya where you can drink and dine very reasonably on beer, pizza etc. Also the Kamelot bar nearby is a cheerful late night establishment. A smarter place down by McDonald’s, heading back towards the bus station, is the upstairs Hundertwasser café.
All in all, a friendly town that I found safe day and night and would have liked a little more time to explore in more depth.
Cost of direct Bus - (Suzdal - Kostroma) - 277R Hotel Korvet - (Single Room/Shared Facilities) - 500R Marshrutka - (Bus station - centre) - 10R
YAROSLAVL (Monday afternoon)
Stopped off next at cosmopolitan Yaroslavl en route to Rostov Veliky. Took one of the numerous buses from Kostroma.
Again, the very modern bus station in Yaroslavl is a long way from the centre so cross the boulevard outside and walk down about 200 metres to the first stop for Marshrutka to town. When you see the river and pass a Kreml on your right you’ll figure you’re where you want to be and can hop off at the next stop.
Very compact centre for a city of 650,000 people or so with churches and palaces on every significant street or so it seems. Especially attractive are the 2 riverside embankments which shouldn’t be missed particularly if the weather is good.
If you’re linguistically challenged here then you can dine in one of the restaurants at the riverside boat station where the cruise ships disembark. There are also some good places to relax, eat and drink along Ulitsa Kirova.
Cost of Bus - (Kostroma - Yaroslavl) - 160R Cost of Marshrutka - 15R
ROSTOV VELIKY (Monday/Tuesday)
Caught the second last bus out of Yaroslavl and arrived at Rostov at approx 8pm or so as the light was fading. Hiked down for 25 minutes or so to the Khor’s guest house on the river front where I thought I had a reservation but Mikhail hadn’t checked my follow-on e-mail. However, all was well as I got the last bed. Khor’s is an art gallery with 4 chalets attached run by Mikhail Selishev with his wife and his mother. Charming rustic experience in the lea of the Kremlin and 50 yards from Lake Nero on offer here. Drawback is the early curfew (11am but you can get away with perhaps an hour later). Made the mistake of leaving my chalet door open for a while and provided an a la Carte experience for a grateful mosquito during the night - not so good…
Stayed 2 nights here and a long, languorous day was spent in the shimmering heat visiting the Kremlin, St Jacob’s monastery, plus various outskirts polished off with a boat trip on Lake Nero. You can walk up the shore along a path from RV to the impressive St Jacob’s for approx 25 minutes or so and there is a little open-air café on the right before you reach the monastery. Be careful if you take the last boat at 6pm as it only goes as far as the next stop down the coast and deposits you about 2/3 kms on the far side of town near the very fine Intourist Hotel which is great value for anyone craving a little comfort at the right price.
Organising supplies was a bit of a chore as being a small town things are done in the old Soviet-style here with no supermarket so you have to buy everything separately in various outlets which is still OK as it’s a friendly and helpful town.
Very fine bar/café/restaurant with good service on the corner of Ulitsa Pokrovskaya opposite the West (Main) Gate of the Kremlin. Also Pizza place a little further up looked promising but they were re-decorating the evening I called in.
Cost of Bus - (Yaroslavl - Rostov) - 73.50R Khor’s Guest House - 600R (no breakfast). Kitchen with tea/coffee and laundry facilities available. House of the Vaults - 700R Intourist Hotel - 1750R Boat Trip - 150R
SERGIEV POSAD (Wednesday afternoon)
Left Rostov with the intention of stopping off in Pereslavl-Zalessky en-route to Sergiev Posad but having observed it as we came through on the bus decided not to stop off as the bus station is a long way from the action with no left-luggage facility as far as I could see and also because it seems from breezing through to be a rowdier, shabbier version of Suzdal, perhaps?
Buses and trains from Rostov to Sergiev Posad are not exactly plentiful. There is a direct connection to Perslavl at 10.55. Also daily buses from Kostroma to Moscow stop at Rostov, Perslavl and Sergiev Posad. The Kostroma bus is in RV at 11.45 and 13.15.
At SP station stored my pack and trekked up to the monastery complex. Now even if you‘re “churched-out” in Russia which is all too easily done as you go the rounds, Trinity Monastery will wrap you up in its sanctified embrace. Intended to have a quick look around and battle on swiftly to Moscow but stayed enthralled by the architecture and atmosphere of the Lavra for the afternoon.
Back at Moscow concluded the day by dining and imbibing in the weird and wonderful environs of VDNK (All-Russia Exhibition Centre) near where the bus from SP terminates.
Cost of Buses - (Rostov Veliky - Sergiev Posad) - 256R (Sergiev Posad - Moscow) - 120R
Conclusion
Wonderful way top spend a week in Russia outside of Moscow or St P. Very impressed with the friendliness and hospitality everywhere I went in this region. Great fun socialising with the locals and in some cases never got to bed at all (but that‘s another story entirely!)
The conventional wisdom usually is to spend a half-day in Vladimir and then go to Suzdal that night, take it in the next day and return to Moscow that evening but I found my night in Vlad and 2 in Suzdal to be ideal. So if you have the time I think Vladimir is worth a stopover.
If I was doing this again I would extend to take in Uglich for a day or two and try and stop off in Pereslavl or Alexandrov and perhaps overnight in Yaroslavl. In retrospect, 10 days in this region would have been a killer (perhaps literally!)
On the evidence of this trip, I wouldn’t fancy Medvedev’s chances of trying to impose a ban on outdoor beer sales from stallholders and vendors. Naturally I did my level best to show some solidarity…
Another revolution on the cards perhaps?
Footnote
Btw...when you buy a ticket at the bus stations, the ticket can be bus specific and the next one available which may be different to the one you think!...
So check your tickets...
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