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Post by nycgirl on May 30, 2013 14:11:26 GMT
This is a continuation of my trip which began in Cape Town and Namibia. We arrived in Kruger National Park in the late afternoon after driving through Botswana the day before. The first animals we laid eyes on were the ubiquitous impalas. Although they are so common that they quickly grow wearisome, they do have pretty, dainty little faces. They also have impressive athleticism. They can leap distances of up to 33 feet (10 meters) and soar as high as 10 feet (3 meters) in the air. Later in the trip, we witnessed a herd of impala executing balletic leaps in the air. Whether they did it to escape a predator or were just goofing off, it was cool to see. Here they are showing the “M” on their rears. As Tod has mentioned before, these markings, along with their position on the food chain, earned them the nickname “McDonald’s of the bush.” We drove on and few minutes later, to my absolute delight, a herd of elephants emerged from the trees and stepped into the road right in front of us. One of them walked right up to the car and stared at us, causing my heart to skip a beat. Even though he was a young one, I had seen enough footage of elephants flipping cars over to be concerned. He, however, only tentatively touched the hood of the car with his trunk and moved on. The herd had little babies with them. This little guy was the smallest of them all. Soon after we spotted our first rhino! Unfortunately, I didn’t get a good look at its face. One disadvantage to traveling to Kruger in January, which is summer in South Africa, is the foliage is so lush that the animals are easily obscured. White rhinos, like this one, can especially be hard to photograph because they walk with their heads down. Black rhinos, on the other hand, walk with their heads held high. That little blue blur over his head is the woodland kingfisher, an absolutely gorgeous bird. We'll see more of him later. Next we saw some kudus. We had fleeting glimpses of them in Namibia, but these kudus were less skittish, so we were able to take lots of photos. They are such stately animals. We came across another herd of elephants strolling across the road, taking their time. We came to find out that they often do that and don’t much care if they hold up traffic. If you’re an elephant, people will wait. We pulled over and watched them for awhile. It was so heartwarming seeing the baby elephants romp with each other. It was getting late and we needed to head back to camp before the gate closing time. On the way, though, we were amazed to see a group of wild dogs trotting down the road toward us. They were one of the animals my husband and I most wanted to see, but we never expected to see them right away. Wild dogs are the most efficient hunter in all of Africa, possibly the world. They have a whopping 80 % success rate, far better than the king of the jungle’s 30 %. These guys, though, had only caught pieces of trash, which they were carrying away with them for some reason. They seemed like they had important business to attend to as they trotted away at a brisk pace. In seconds, those saucer-like ears and pretty mottled coats disappeared from view. We reluctantly headed for camp, pausing for a herd of water buffalo on the way. We checked into our accommodations and grabbed a bite to eat. That night, although we were tired and our bungalow was cozy, my husband and I took a walk around the perimeter fence and listened to the strange and eerie sounds of the bush. Our safari trip was off to a fantastic start.
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Post by tod2 on May 30, 2013 15:09:44 GMT
Brilliant start Nycgirl! Thanks for the messages you left us in that secret place....can't wait to go find them! Your Kudu photos are superb - so lucky to have come across those wild dogs. You know what you've done now don't you? I have to compare the markings on those dogs with the pack of wild dogs we encountered so I can see if MAYBE they are one and the same pack. Wish me luck! Looking forward to hearing how the sleepover hides went. I sked my husband if he would like to give it a try this next trip........a big NO! Well not until the grandkids have reached the age where it could be an adventure - for them of course! and a trial to see if we could last the night ;D
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Post by mossie on May 30, 2013 19:01:17 GMT
Absolutely super animals. The very first pic is a real winner.
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Post by Deleted on May 30, 2013 19:58:33 GMT
An absolutely superb start, and I hope that there is much much more to come!
The kudus look extremely self confident just as the impalas look ready to run at any moment.
As for the little baby elephant, I always imagine the birth of such a creature with the mother lying down or maybe even standing up and the baby plopping out wrapped in a gooey placenta. Considering the dangers of the wild, there is so much to take care of immediately after the birth to make sure that the calf is safe and quickly fed.
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Post by nycboy on May 31, 2013 2:39:42 GMT
Ilia didn't mention it, but we got into the park around 3pm so this was all in 3 1/2 hours. We got really lucky knocking out 3 of the big 5 and the wild dogs which we wanted to see more than any of those. I can't underscore the excitement we felt starting out, it being our first time and not know what to expect, especially in the rainy season with the vegetation being very lush. The first elephants caught us be surprise, they kind of popped out of the forest next to us so we didn't really have a chance to give them a wide berth. The rhino too was a shock, having heard from so many that hadn't seen them on their trips. Then to see the dogs trotting down the street... CLOUD NINE
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Post by bjd on May 31, 2013 7:10:15 GMT
I wonder whether those wild dogs exist further north or just in that area? Are they domesticated dogs that have gone wild or a specific animal? I must admit they look a bit too much like hyenas for me to find them attractive.
My favourite animals on safari are the more common ones: elephants and giraffes. And all the various antelopes are really beautiful too.
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Post by nycgirl on May 31, 2013 11:40:40 GMT
Thanks, everyone!
Tod, I'd love to see your findings, but I'm afraid my photos aren't very much to go on. We really enjoyed the hides, especially Shipendani, but I can see why your husband wouldn't be interested. The noises outside can be pretty nerve-wracking! They are definitely an adventurous option, though.
K, I know what you mean, the natural world can be quite harsh and pitiless. We saw some gruesome sights interspersed with all that beauty. I didn't see any baby animals get killed, though. I would've found that quite upsetting.
Bjd, wild dogs are a unique species. They're also known as "painted wolves" and "hunting dogs." The latter name is probably the most fitting. They do have similar ears and muzzles to hyenas, but much prettier coats and leaner, more graceful bodies. Not that awkward hunched back.
The elephants turned out to be my absolute favorite. Their size and strength is, of course, impressive, but their social behavior is also interesting. They can be big grouches, but they also can be very gentle and affectionate with each other.
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Post by tod2 on May 31, 2013 14:49:20 GMT
Nycgirl - I studied the photos against mine and could only find slight similarities BUT, I noticed in your large photo of the wild dogs that the two at the back had almost identical markings on their tails and backsides. You may have been told that only one female gives birth to all puppies born in the pack. This is supposed to stop interbreeding - to some extent at least. Maybe until the old matriarch is not longer able to breed and is replaced with one of her daughters...
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Post by nycgirl on May 31, 2013 22:21:53 GMT
Good eyes, Tod, I noticed those tail markings, too.
I've know there is usually one breeder, but I've seen on nature shows that in times of plenty the matriarch will sometimes tolerate other breeders.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 1, 2013 5:14:37 GMT
The rhino too was a shock, having heard from so many that hadn't seen them on their trips. Then to see the dogs trotting down the street... CLOUD NINE It's true -- the fact that you saw a rhino almost immediately surprised me. They are incredibly elusive and are often just about the last animal that the guide manages to find on the 'list' when you are on a photo safari, after several days of searching.
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Post by lugg on Jun 1, 2013 6:39:32 GMT
What a fantastic collection of photos. Elephants are wonderful aren't they and so fascinating.
How lucky were you to see the rhino and the dogs so soon after you arrived. ;D Looking forward to seeing more of this wonderful place and reading your adventures.
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Post by nycgirl on Jun 1, 2013 7:13:56 GMT
We were raring to go the next morning and hit the road as soon as the gate opened. One of the first animals that greeted us was a couple of blue wildebeest. While they aren’t the best-looking animals, they do have a nice silvery blue sheen on their coats. We saw herds of water buffalo, also no prize winners in the looks department. The young ones are pretty cute, though, like this guy here. We saw our first baby giraffe. I was really delighted by all the baby animals we encountered this trip. Still early in the day, we came across a pile-up of several cars facing a tree in the distance. We realized with a jolt that there was leopard in the branches! The elusive cat was tearing into a fresh impala kill and paying no mind to his audience. We almost couldn’t believe our eyes. Look at that regal face and beautiful dappled coat. It’s amazing that leopards can drag a full-grown impala weighing up to 170 pounds (75 kg) straight up a tree. Safe in his perch, the leopard took his time with his meal, feasting, taking a break, feasting some more, picking up and readjusting the carcass. We, in turn, feasted our eyes on his every movement. Since it was obvious he wasn’t going anywhere, I was able to put down the camera and watch him through the binoculars for awhile. Judging from his bulk, he seemed to be healthy and well fed. After about half an hour, he was content to take an extended breather, dangle his legs, and clean himself. By now a massive caravan of vehicles had gathered so we decided to take our leave. We said farewell to our gorgeous feline and drove away, elated and still in disbelief at our good fortune.
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Post by mossie on Jun 1, 2013 8:01:44 GMT
How lucky can you get??? Many thanks for sharing these wonderful pics of your trip with us.
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Post by spindrift1 on Jun 1, 2013 19:56:41 GMT
Such wonderful photos - all of them! but in particular of the baby elephant(s). When an elephant gives birth, the other females stand around to help her and there would be no way the baby would be snatched by a predator. I had no idea that the Kruger Park has tarmacadamed roads. I am really surprised. Is it a huge area? Can you go off the road at all? Are you allowed out of your car? or would it be at your own risk? Did you see lots of leopards? During my years in the wild bush in Kenya and Botswana I never saw even one! The impalas are so pretty and I find the kudus to be regal..it is truly amazing that the Big Five are there to be seen as you drive around. I bet you are both totally in love with Africa now!
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Post by Deleted on Jun 1, 2013 19:59:41 GMT
Yes, leopards are almost as hard to sight as rhinos! If I had seen those two so quickly, I would have looked for the closest place to buy a lottery ticket.
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Post by spindrift1 on Jun 1, 2013 20:12:56 GMT
Yes, it is always difficult to find a rhino (in Africa) however it's easy enough to find them in the Chitwan National Park in Nepal! They are a different species of rhino to the African ones. At Chitwan it's best to sit on an elephant to view rhinos (definitely there to be spotted) and tigers (IMO non-existent!).
A friend of mine who rides every morning on the outskirts of Nairobi says there are plenty of leopards in the trees probably just waiting to attack the horse and rider! Never happens to him though.
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Post by htmb on Jun 1, 2013 20:13:00 GMT
I cannot imagine seeing all these beautiful animals in the wild. Your photos are phenomenal, but those of the leopard are particularly outstanding.
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Post by nycboy on Jun 1, 2013 20:38:55 GMT
The rhino too was a shock, having heard from so many that hadn't seen them on their trips. Then to see the dogs trotting down the street... CLOUD NINE It's true -- the fact that you saw a rhino almost immediately surprised me. They are incredibly elusive and are often just about the last animal that the guide manages to find on the 'list' when you are on a photo safari, after several days of searching. Ya know we did end up seeing another rhino with a juvenile right after that too. Unfortunately they were too obscured by vegetation to get a decent picture AND they had a herd of elephants competing with them up the road with the babies Ilia posted above.
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Post by nycgirl on Jun 1, 2013 23:42:34 GMT
I would have loved to get a good look at the baby rhino, but we had such a poor view of him that he could have passed for a rock. I also wanted to see the rare black rhino, but we never did. Still, we did very well with rhino sightings so we have no complaints. I had no idea that the Kruger Park has tarmacadamed roads. I am really surprised. Is it a huge area? Can you go off the road at all? Are you allowed out of your car? or would it be at your own risk? Did you see lots of leopards? During my years in the wild bush in Kenya and Botswana I never saw even one! The impalas are so pretty and I find the kudus to be regal..it is truly amazing that the Big Five are there to be seen as you drive around. I bet you are both totally in love with Africa now! All the main roads are paved. Didn't always do any good, but I'll get into that later. Kruger is huge, about the size of the entire country of Israel. There are some off-road trails that require a 4x4 and a permit. We didn't do those, but we did take some nice side roads that felt isolated. There were moments when I felt as if we were the only people there. You aren't allowed to get out of the car except at designated picnic spots and some of the bridges. And the park, naturally, assures visitors that they do so at their own risk. Yes, husband and I are both madly in love with Africa. More animals (including leopards) are forthcoming.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 1, 2013 23:49:13 GMT
Wonderful photos. The leopard eating the other animal is kind of scary. The baby elephant is just too cute for words.
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Post by nycgirl on Jun 2, 2013 1:09:00 GMT
The park is home to a dazzling variety of birds, almost 500 species. Here are just a few we saw that day. The Hamerkop, with its unmistakable pointy head, and the Green-backed Heron (though not looking very green here). The lovely Lilac-breasted Roller. The roller family gets its name from the aerial derring-do they perform during courtship or territorial battles. The Pied Kingfishers were fun to watch as they hovered above the water before swiftly plunging for fish. The Woodland Kingfishers really stood out, both for their brilliant aqua plumage and their loud, distinctive chirping. The Southern Yellow-billed Hornbill had a lot of character and were a particular favorite of my husband’s. This quartet of Southern Ground Hornbills was entertaining to watch, stomping around like badasses. We learned that they’re severely endangered and so the park asks for visitors to help monitor them by reporting any sightings, which we did.
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Post by nycboy on Jun 2, 2013 1:20:45 GMT
The southerns kind of strut down the street like gangsters out of West Side Story
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Post by bixaorellana on Jun 2, 2013 2:15:03 GMT
On first looking at this thread & seeing that soulful impala, I thought, "Huh. They posted their very best picture first." Impossible as it is to believe that you'd have scads of photos to live up to that one, you do!
The baby elephants playing with each other -- TOO cute. And the kudu looks as though some artistic god at the dawn of creation said, "Come on you guys -- THIS is how good an animal can look." Love the wildebeest, which looks put together by a particularly tasteful committee. Gad ~~ the leopard pictures! What a piece of luck and what fabulous photos. And the bird pictures are out of this world. The one of the hornbill eating a bug -- Natl Geo, eat your heart out! Heh heh -- love the when you're a Jet, you're a Jet all the way Southerns.
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Post by nycgirl on Jun 2, 2013 6:22:20 GMT
While crossing a river, we saw our first hippos in the form of eyes watching us from the water. I have to admit, I find being in close proximity to hippos very disconcerting. The baby hippo doesn’t look evil, though. We spotted another rhino, again obscured by foliage. But judging by the long, thin horn, I think I can identify this one as female. Males have shorter, thicker horns. Weighing up to 5,000 pounds (2,300 kg), the white rhino is the world’s second largest mammal. It’s also one of the oldest species in existence. We saw a group of cute little banded mongooses by the road. We also spotted a honey badger, which I really wanted to see, but he was too quick for me to get a photo. We saw several herds of zebras. Again, I find the little ones irresistible. In the late afternoon, almost the time when we arrived the previous day, we spotted our first lion, a lone young male. He was pretty far away, but we can say we saw all of the Big 5 in under 24 hours. Our lucky streak continued. My husband noticed something surreptitiously creeping in the grass next to the car and hit the brakes for a closer look. It was a leopard! Irritated at being spotted, the cat flattened his ears, hissed, and took off. I just barely managed to get this shot before he ducked behind a bush and vanished. Wow! What a special moment, and one we had all to ourselves. We later saw another animal, a small one this time, trying to sneak away unnoticed. This chameleon froze in his tracks when I stopped to get a photo. He then rocked slightly back and forth in imitation of a leaf blowing in the wind. Convinced that he outwitted me, he slowly, painstakingly crawled across the road to safety. As evening approached, we came to a dam and pulled over. While we were checking out the view and looking for activity on the water, an elephant emerged from the bush and made a beeline for us. He was quite close when we looked up and saw him standing by the car. He was a huge lone bull and intimidating as hell. He stared at us for several seconds, then shook his mighty head and flapped his ears impatiently. My heart almost stopped! My husband quickly backed away to a safe distance. Mollified, the elephant ambled over to the spot we vacated and began drinking. It was getting late and being threatened by the largest land animal in the world was the perfect way to end the day. We checked into our accommodations for the night, a rustic birdwatching hide overlooking the dam. We fell asleep surrounded by the sounds of the wild. The grunts of hippos filled the air and once in the night I heard an elephant’s trumpet.
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Post by bjd on Jun 2, 2013 6:43:52 GMT
Great pics, nycgirl and boy. You were indeed really lucky to see so many animals and birds.
I saw both black and white rhinos in Kenya -- they are intimidating too. Never saw a leopard though.
And when we went to see the hippos and crocodiles in the Mara River between Kenya and Tanzania, we were accompanied by a ranger with a rifle, so they certainly are dangerous too.
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Post by spindrift1 on Jun 2, 2013 8:20:52 GMT
More enthralling pictures...each one better than the previous one! It's wonderful to see that the animals are protected in this huge area and not liable to be poached. They are not scared and running into hiding when a vehicle approaches. Unlike, for example, in the Tsavo Park in Kenya where my husband and I drove around for days and saw virtually nothing at all. It strikes me that the Kruger Park is the best place for viewing animals. You seem to have been very close to that leopard in the tree eating the impala and he didn't seem to mind! That's amazing.
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Post by fumobici on Jun 2, 2013 18:17:56 GMT
Speechless, really. What an amazing report, I'm a sucker for wildlife photography and this fills the bill.
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Post by lugg on Jun 4, 2013 6:15:36 GMT
Wonderful, the sequence of the leopard with his kill - wow. But all so good really, how lucky were you ?
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Post by bixaorellana on Jun 4, 2013 15:59:49 GMT
Can't really add to the very well deserved kudos (not the four-legged kind) you've already garnered on this thread, but WOW!
Yes, you all did have incredible luck, but the wit & the reflexes to take advantage of it. You must have felt so alive, so on high alert the whole time.
I had no idea mongoose were so cute. No wonder people want to keep them as pets.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 4, 2013 16:35:12 GMT
In Kenya, back when I was there, I'm not sure if it was forbidden to foreign visitors drive their own car in the national parks or if it was just greatly discouraged -- you had to hire a safari guide. (Naturally that was better for the economy than letting you go on your own.) You have made it obvious that it is so much better to drive yourself, since you can stop whenever you notice little things of interest. Safari guides have their main obsession "have to find the big five as quickly as possibly to get a good tip!' They would never stop for a lizard, for example...
One of my colleagues, who went on the same safari where I had taken my parents a year earlier, was both very lucky and unlucky. She went with her mother and her 9 year old daughter and they actually saw a lion hunt down and kill a zebra right in front of them. Naturally, this is a great sight if you can stomach it, and that was the problem -- her daughter refused to eat meat of any kind for about the next nine months.
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