A walk in Constable Country
Jun 11, 2013 14:28:54 GMT
Post by patricklondon on Jun 11, 2013 14:28:54 GMT
One of the first really summery days this year left me with no excuses for staying indoors, or indeed in London, so it was off to one of my favourite walks, to the countryside around Flatford Mill and Dedham vale, as featured so often in the work of one of Britain's favourite painters, John Constable.
More on Constable: www.john-constable.org/
Barely an hour by train from London, you come to Manningtree station. It's well-placed for people to commute not only to London but also to Norwich and Ipswich, so there's a massive carpark; but since (no doubt the result of one of those quirks of Victorian history) this station is some way from the town, one only has to turn the right way to find oneself facing countryside as we always imagine it:
Once the train has gone, the only sound is birdsong, and a distant cockerel. On the telephone wires, a kestrel carefully chooses its prey:
A little way on, the path turns under the railway line, and the lush spring growth takes full advantage of the sun:
The hedgerows are mostly hawthorn and blackthorn, with here and there an oak standing proud, and the wild roses are in bud:
A break in the hedge for a gate allows a glimpse into the fields:
and then the path comes out to the valley and water-meadows of the River Stour, and you could begin to imagine yourself into the views Constable depicted:
Here the plants grow in drifts. I heard a cuckoo somewhere away in the woods:
The path is well-marked, but it's clear that walkers have got impatient with stiles and kissing-gates, and the field layouts for livestock don't always seem to need the gap to be fenced again:
After a while, the path takes you to Flatford Mill, looking somewhat tidier, but much the same as in Constable's paintings. The main buildings are now a study centre focussing on the environment:
As you cross over the bridge, you can see boats for hire and the path that wanders on towards Dedham through the vale, but my way lay up the hill.
Bridge Cottage houses an exhibition on Constable, and (as with any other self-respecting National Trust property) the all-important gift shop and tea-garden:
Even the car-park is landscaped:
A fine oak by the road catches the eye:
but further up the hill, its sister has had its problems:
At last, through the hedge, there's a glimpse across the vale to Dedham church:
and finally, at the top, the whole of the vale (now protected by the National Trust) comes into view:
Crossing the river once more, and passing through more overgrown paths:
the walker gets to stroll through buttercupped meadows and past interesting trees:
and up the hill the other side and into Dedham. It's clear that this has become a very well-heeled village, with a high street colourfully painted and containing more than one gallery/antique shop/knickknackatorium:
The church is impressive, with a fine old set of doors and some inventive flower arrangers (I'm wondering if there was a wedding):
What might once have been a humble cottage is now a very desirable residence (apart from its proximity to the road) and certainly lovingly-tended:
while other houses look as though they were always for the gentry:
As it happens, this walk can time itself nicely, for a morning coffee break at Flatford Mill, and lunch in Dedham, and then back to the station, this time on the level through the vale, passing some curious lambs:
and some more full-flowered blackthorn and hawthorn:
There's also time for a break for afternoon tea back at Flatford Mill (avoiding the mischievous ducks):
and one final lingering look at the water-meadows:
More on Constable: www.john-constable.org/
Barely an hour by train from London, you come to Manningtree station. It's well-placed for people to commute not only to London but also to Norwich and Ipswich, so there's a massive carpark; but since (no doubt the result of one of those quirks of Victorian history) this station is some way from the town, one only has to turn the right way to find oneself facing countryside as we always imagine it:
Once the train has gone, the only sound is birdsong, and a distant cockerel. On the telephone wires, a kestrel carefully chooses its prey:
A little way on, the path turns under the railway line, and the lush spring growth takes full advantage of the sun:
The hedgerows are mostly hawthorn and blackthorn, with here and there an oak standing proud, and the wild roses are in bud:
A break in the hedge for a gate allows a glimpse into the fields:
and then the path comes out to the valley and water-meadows of the River Stour, and you could begin to imagine yourself into the views Constable depicted:
Here the plants grow in drifts. I heard a cuckoo somewhere away in the woods:
The path is well-marked, but it's clear that walkers have got impatient with stiles and kissing-gates, and the field layouts for livestock don't always seem to need the gap to be fenced again:
After a while, the path takes you to Flatford Mill, looking somewhat tidier, but much the same as in Constable's paintings. The main buildings are now a study centre focussing on the environment:
As you cross over the bridge, you can see boats for hire and the path that wanders on towards Dedham through the vale, but my way lay up the hill.
Bridge Cottage houses an exhibition on Constable, and (as with any other self-respecting National Trust property) the all-important gift shop and tea-garden:
Even the car-park is landscaped:
A fine oak by the road catches the eye:
but further up the hill, its sister has had its problems:
At last, through the hedge, there's a glimpse across the vale to Dedham church:
and finally, at the top, the whole of the vale (now protected by the National Trust) comes into view:
Crossing the river once more, and passing through more overgrown paths:
the walker gets to stroll through buttercupped meadows and past interesting trees:
and up the hill the other side and into Dedham. It's clear that this has become a very well-heeled village, with a high street colourfully painted and containing more than one gallery/antique shop/knickknackatorium:
The church is impressive, with a fine old set of doors and some inventive flower arrangers (I'm wondering if there was a wedding):
What might once have been a humble cottage is now a very desirable residence (apart from its proximity to the road) and certainly lovingly-tended:
while other houses look as though they were always for the gentry:
As it happens, this walk can time itself nicely, for a morning coffee break at Flatford Mill, and lunch in Dedham, and then back to the station, this time on the level through the vale, passing some curious lambs:
and some more full-flowered blackthorn and hawthorn:
There's also time for a break for afternoon tea back at Flatford Mill (avoiding the mischievous ducks):
and one final lingering look at the water-meadows:
