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Post by frenchmystiquetour on Nov 4, 2013 12:48:53 GMT
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Post by frenchmystiquetour on Nov 4, 2013 12:50:50 GMT
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Post by frenchmystiquetour on Nov 4, 2013 12:52:00 GMT
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Post by frenchmystiquetour on Nov 4, 2013 12:53:17 GMT
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Post by frenchmystiquetour on Nov 4, 2013 12:54:30 GMT
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Post by frenchmystiquetour on Nov 4, 2013 12:55:32 GMT
Tuesday, August 20th:Today was ''be a tourist day''. Our gîte was located in the relatively tourist free southern Corrèze department right on the border with the most highly touristed sites in the more well known department of the Dordogne. Most of our visits had centered on places within an hour's drive from our base and nowhere had we encountered what could be considered significant crowds, Gouffre de Padirac excepted. What better way to break tradition than to head to one of the most popular areas in the region, right in the vicinity of the region's top tourist town, Sarlat. I had been to Sarlat and its environs once, briefly, several years ago and I enjoyed my visit so I thought it would be nice to see some familiar places again and explore some new ones. The Mrs. had been to the area several times as a child but she likes it too and it had been a while since she had been here, the last time with me. We've got nothing against being tourists and always have fun when being one of the crowd so off we went to have some fun. It was amazing how once we got within about 15km or 20km of Sarlat the previously empty roads produced cars as if they had just tumbled down from the steep riverbanks along the Dordogne river, where we were driving. There were little sandy beaches here and there dotting the riverbanks and each one had a group of folks enjoying it. Winding along the river we could see a château in the distance. It was marked on the map as the Cingle de Montfort, taking its name from a meander in the river above which it dominated and from Simon de Montfort, who attacked and razed the château in 1214. It was later rebuilt, three times in fact (or 4 or 5 times, depending on which source you check) and was destroyed each time. In the 19th century it was fancifully renovated. That's about all I have to say about that. We were passing through the village and pulled over to have a look at the château and check out the little village at its base. Not too many other visitors here. That was the last time I saw an empty village today because next we went to Domme, which was more or less packed with tourists. Climbing up from the river valley as we approached the outskirts of Domme we could see several large parking lots up to as much as 1km from the village and most of them seemed full. People were buzzing around the lots fighting for spaces but we took a chance and headed straight for the heart of the village and found a parking spot right away, about 100 meters from tourist central. Using psychology I figured that everyone approaching the town would see the packed parking lots on the outskirts and assume there was no way they'd find a spot in town so they wouldn't even try. The strategy worked. Domme is perched at the edge of a cliff high above the river valley.
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Post by frenchmystiquetour on Nov 4, 2013 12:58:12 GMT
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Post by frenchmystiquetour on Nov 4, 2013 12:59:34 GMT
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Post by frenchmystiquetour on Nov 4, 2013 13:00:43 GMT
Sheltered by the cliff and facing south, the village has a microclimate that allows for growing of vegetation more commonly found in Mediterranean climates. The section of the Dordogne river in this area is a real tourist honey pot and the sites are packed on top of each other. Just a few kilometers down the river lies the lovely Plus Beau Village of Beynac-et-Cazenac, another cliffside site dominated by the partial ruins of a château on the peak above the village. But on the way there you can stop and visit Marqueyssac, known for its suspended gardens which are the most visited in the region. It is worth a visit but there are so many other places nearby that are also worth a visit that we didn't have time to see them all in one day. Should you want to learn more about the gardens and/or pay a visit here is the website: www.marqueyssac.com/Beynac is yet another Plus Beau Village. I swear I wasn't trying to follow the Plus Beaux Villages trail but you can't throw a rock in this area without hitting a Plus Beau Something or Other. Beynac is beautiful, like you'd expect, but it has some sort of presence about it that makes it more than just cute. I suppose having a mighty looking fortress on a commanding position atop a cliff with sweeping majestic views might be the reason for that but it does exude a sense of historical importance so here's a bit about that. The Dordogne is famous for its prehistoric sites and many of the caves and shelters in the region's cliffs have evidence of human occupation for thousands of years and such places are near Beynac. After the Barbarian invasions a castrum developed in 1050 and when Eleanor of Acquitaine married Henri II the region became English controlled, governed by the local Count of Toulouse who was a vassal to the King of France. Richard the Lionhearted didn't accept this alliance and seized the castle in 1197, but it was retaken two years later. In 1214 Simon de Montfort put Beynac under seige during the Albigensian crusades. During the 13th and 14th centuries, the warlike power of Beynac permitted it to become an important influence within the region. The Hundred Years War had its usual effect of devastation on the town and château and after the fighting it was rebuit as the Renaissance period took hold. But that didn't last long as it was only a matter of time until the Wars of Religion again devastated the region. Despite the centuries of attack and devastation the heritage of the line of the lords and barons of Beynac was unbroken from the 11th century until 1811 when Marie-Claude, the last heiress of the lineage, died. We got a late start to the day, not leaving the gîte until 1:30PM, and it was late afternoon by the time we arrived in Beynac so the tourist crowds were thinning. But there were still enough people to make it lively and the stores and shops were still open so it was more or less the perfect time to show up. We parked below the village next to the river. Then off to see the village.
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Post by frenchmystiquetour on Nov 4, 2013 13:01:51 GMT
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Post by frenchmystiquetour on Nov 4, 2013 13:04:46 GMT
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Post by frenchmystiquetour on Nov 4, 2013 13:09:55 GMT
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Post by frenchmystiquetour on Nov 4, 2013 13:11:01 GMT
Wednesday, August 21st:Yesterday's theme of see as much as possible in as short an amount of time as possible had left us with tourist hangover so the only remedy for that is to do nothing. And that's exactly what we did all day and night. The weather was goregous, we had a pool and there was plenty of good wine and good food so why ruin a good thing? Quite possibly the best day of the vacation. No, definitely the best day of the vacation. Thursday, August 22nd:Yesterday was so good that it seemed like the right thing to do today was to repeat yesterday. Friday, August 23rd:Feeling well rested from two days of doing nothing we were ready to undertake some exploration on our last day of vacation. We were heading south to see one of the most famous prehistoric caves in France, Pech Merle. I told you that I thought the Gouffre de Padirac was just OK but this cave was going to be different since it has some of the best original prehistoric art that is available for public viewing. A Sistene Chapel, comparatively speaking. If you want to visit Pech Merle you need to reserve in advance. I think we reserved about 2 or 3 days before our visit but I don't know if that's typical or not. We had a 9:30 reservation and it was about a 1-1/2 hour drive to get there so we got up early and planned on making this a full day of exploring. To get to Pech Merle we took the A20 autoroute south and got off at exit 56. We could have gone further on the A20 but we wanted to do a scenic drive through the Causses region. The Causses are a group of calcitic/limestone plateaus that extend over an area of 8,000km2 between the Dordogne and Lot rivers. I won't dwell on the intellectual aspect of their geologic origins because it is the visual impact of the landscape that most stimulates a visitor's senses. Arid looking, slightly undulating plains with a dry scrubby vegetation and a soil so thick with stone it renders nearly futile any attempt to be cut by the plow. The open expanses are cut into plots by the endless rows of crumbling stone walls that criss-cross the region, testimony to the unceasing effort of centuries of hard labor. The land feels desolate, forlorn, forsaken. But it's precisely these qualities that create an aura of power and presence that captivate the soul. Primitive people must have felt this presence since there remain numerous ceremonial sites in the form of dolmens and menhirs that reverence the sacred nature of the rituals formerly observed. If anyone is interested in following the route I took then get off the A20 at exit 56 and pick up the D802 for a few kilometers, then head south on the D42 all the way to Pech Merle. You'll pass through a few charming little towns and villages on the way. Unfortunately I have no photos of this journey as we were in a hurry to arrive at Pech Merle for our early appointment. When you arrive in the visitors center in Pech Merle they have some excellent literature and displays hanging on the walls to inform you about the history of the grotto and what you are about to see. I would suggest arriving a half hour before your meeting so you can learn a bit about what you are going to see. Most of the info is in French but there is some English translation, albeit not as thorough as the French. Here is a brief summary of some of the important facts and notable events concerning Pech Merle. The first known excursion into the cavity was in 1906 but it was in 1920 when a local 14 year old boy and his friend, fascinated by the stories they had heard, undertook their own explorations and announced to a local geologist the existence of one of the now famous cavities. The geologist proclaimed there was no existence of human occupation but that the cavity was worthy of geological consideration. The teens continued their study of the cave and in 1922 discovered the famous paintings. Much is made of the difficulty in exploring the cave and the narrow passages and blocked entries they encountered, with only a candle in their hands to guide them. The paintings in the cave are as much as 25,000 years old and concern for their preservation is obviously a priority. Visits to the cave are limited to 700 people a day in groups of no more than 25 people for a duration of 50 minutes. Before you enter the cave your are led to a room in the visitors center where there is a diorama of the cave and your guide gives a brief overview of its various aspects. It looks kind of strange seeing a normal looking door in a wall to enter the cave. It felt like one of those children's fantasy stories where the kids are about to embark on some incredible adventure as soon as they step into the looking glass or walk into the wardrobe of old clothes where in each case some surreal world reveals itself on the other side. As you might imagine, photos are not allowed inside the grotto but I'll show you some pix I took in the visitors center that illustrate the interior of the cave. Before I show the paintings I'd like to add that even if there was no art inside the cave I found its geological aspects much more interesting and spectacular than at the Gouffre de Padirac. It was worth a visit simply for the geology. It was interesting to note that where the artists had chosen to work would sometimes be in proximity to some of the more fantastic geologic marvels, which could be perceived even by the visitor today as having some sort of anthropomorphic features, appearing to have the form of some powerful beast or deity. It's impossible to convey in these puny photos the overwhelming impact and the awe and reverence this cave inspires when standing inside it. I have a deep interest in ancient history and archaeology and have several friends who are professional archaeologists (one of whom has the credentials to get me inside the original Lascaux cave should he ever come to France) and when we speak of the experience of being inside Pech Merle it is in hushed tones that come from an unspoken mutual understanding. Words fail.
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Post by frenchmystiquetour on Nov 4, 2013 13:13:59 GMT
From silent reverence to bustling commercial enterprise we arrived in the nearby town of Cabrerets to look for a restaurant to lunch in. It was market day. It's a pretty small place but in walking around we saw four or five places where we could dine. Nothing looked particularly exceptional and it seemed most places were geared towards serving a quick tourist lunch, although I think there was one place that looked a little nicer. We decided on a quaint looking little restaurant with an outdoor terrace. Prices seemed cheap in Cabrerets and I think our lunch menu cost around 8€ or something like that. The waitress was really nice and I think the restaurant might have been on the first floor of her home. I went inside to go to the bathroom and the interior dining rooms had the warmth and character of a rustic, stone built country home and you almost felt like grandma was probably out cooking in the kitchen. Actually, grandma was cooking in the kitchen since the cook was the waitress's mother. No doubt we were going to get some of grandma's good ole home cooking. When our appetizer arrived it appeared that grandma's secret method of food preparation lay in her ability to open tin cans and remove plastic wrapping on low quality charcuterie from discount supermarket chains. Our main course was no different. I can't remember everything I ate but I do remember a wet, droopy mass of boiled celery. When she arrived with our plates our waitress smiled as she placed them on the table and with no small amount of pride announced that she had just purchased the celery at the market that morning. Well, at least something was fresh. I won't mention the name of this restaurant because this woman is trying her best to make a living in a small town where employment opportunities are not abundant. And I truly believe that she had probably been raised eating food just like this (grandma's good ole ''home'' cooking) and likely found it perfectly acceptable, if not delicious. She's not trying to rip anyone off. Despite the food, I actually enjoyed this place. If you like authentic experiences then it was truly representative of what life is like for a real family in a real small village without the glossy veneer of romanticized fantasies idealizing small village life in rural France. No copious plates of freshly procured local food, no happy peasants tilling the fields and tending the animals. Life in a small village isn't all roses. If you are in Cabrerets it will be fun for you to wander around and try to figure out the restaurant I'm talking about and perhaps you'll have the (mis)fortune of dining there. Many of the most famous sites in the region, such as Saint-Cirq-la-Popie, lie just south of Cabrerets along the Lot River. We had been to this area a few years back so we decided to explore further east of Cabrerets along the less known Célé River. While in Cabrerets we stopped in the tourist office which once again had loads of great literature of what to see and do in the area. I grabbed loads of local touristic maps, hiking trail and patrimonial heritage maps, and other detailed brochures and pamphlets covering a wide variety of sites and attractions in the area. I studied them for a few minutes to get us started on our route and then we set off along the Célé River. Our first stop was to be a megalithic site near a town called Marcilhac-sur-Célé. As we were ascending hill we got a glimpse of the village profile. It looked really charming so we changed plans and turned around to head back down and explore the village. I won't recount the history of the town because you know it already.....the Hundred Years War, the Wars of Religion etc. It's an old village built around its 9th century Benedictine Abbey, which was ruined during the Hundred Years War and rebuit 3 or 4 times following this and other devastating events.
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Post by frenchmystiquetour on Nov 4, 2013 13:15:02 GMT
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Post by frenchmystiquetour on Nov 4, 2013 13:16:20 GMT
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Post by frenchmystiquetour on Nov 4, 2013 13:17:48 GMT
If you're a tourist needing a hotel this place was designed for you. And if you're a tourist, like we were, and you're hungry then you should go where all the tourists go. We stopped in for drinks and a snack and just like in Cabrerets the waitress's mother was also the chef. This time grandma's home cooking was worthy of mention and we had some sort of local desert specialty. I don't know what it was but it was pretty good. It was real down to earth service and the waitress and grandma were trading jokes with some of the regulars and not so regulars (like us) alike. Fun and friendly place. We continued on now in pursuit of the dolmen which had been our original priority. The local tourist map we got marked it's location but it wasn't very precise so it left some guess work in figuring out its precise location. It actually didn't take much effort since it was right next to the road. It's amazing that there's no sign to notify an unaware passer-by as to what they might be passing. I've noticed this is generally the case with most megalithic monuents that don't have the designation of a historic monument. So if you're ever driving along and see some weird looking giant rock(s) chances are you're looking at a megalith. It's interesting to speculate that since this dolmen sits right next to the road it must have been on a well worn local travel route that has existed for thousands of years. Hundreds of generations of local inhabitants must have seen this monument and for it to have been left undisturbed for so long must be an indication of the importance this site played in local lore and legendry. We were out of the river valley and back up on the causses and here is a semi-representatve photo of that type of landscape. Then we moved back down to the more fertile river valley. We needed some fuel and suddenly there in the middle of nowhere was a self serve gas station. The local bulletin board is chock full of announcements of important local events and festivals. If I had time I would have stuck around to see these guys. I bet those guys are totally capable of entertaining huge crowds of people. They posted their phone number so if you're interested it looks like they're avaiable for hire.
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Post by frenchmystiquetour on Nov 4, 2013 13:18:57 GMT
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Post by frenchmystiquetour on Nov 4, 2013 13:20:12 GMT
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Post by frenchmystiquetour on Nov 4, 2013 13:21:44 GMT
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Post by frenchmystiquetour on Nov 4, 2013 13:22:56 GMT
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Post by frenchmystiquetour on Nov 4, 2013 13:24:20 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Nov 4, 2013 14:01:32 GMT
I've only been able to read up to "reply #11" so far but I felt the urgent need to thank you for another one of your incredibly outstanding (and extremely complete) reports. I've been through those areas several times in the past but always in a one or two day rush and never with the luxury of having two weeks to explore, so this really shows why I need to slow down. I already knew why I am so happy to live in France, but you have provided even more documentary evidence of what a nice place it is.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 4, 2013 18:03:12 GMT
Okay, now I am up to "reply #23" and it all continues to be enthralling, and of course your writing style is as great as ever, especially when you notice little details like the hairdresser's salon trapped in another era (there are still so many of those in the provinces -- and even in Paris).
People who are not familiar with the area must wonder how it is possible to have so many châteaux and so many picturesque villages in such a relatively small geographic zone. Actually, it impresses even the French, especially those of us from the northeast. While there are still a few châteaux and a certain number of picturesque villages in the northeast and more generally all of northern France, for some inexplicable reason, there were a few wars in the 20th century that disposed of quite a bit of the architectural heritage sites. There were also tons of wars in the southwest, but most of them were at least 400 years ago (and the bombs were not as efficient back then), which explains why there is still so much good stuff left.
The fact that France is still a relatively conservative country which lives by the idea "why build something new if the old thing is still serviceable?" has also helped to preserve so much of this stuff.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 4, 2013 18:36:31 GMT
Wow, fantastic report, FMT! This is going to take some reading. I will reply more fully on SunnyDaze.
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Post by frenchmystiquetour on Nov 4, 2013 23:30:38 GMT
kerouac - It's after midnight so you must be just finishing reading my report. Sorry for the epic length but I had to do something with all those pictures I took.
There aren't enough hairdresser's salons covered in trip reports so I thought I had better address that deficiency. We do have some pretty cool, and even intact, châteaux near Paris but true that they are much more abundant and intact down in the southern regions. Most of the great medieval ones near Paris are only ruins. As a matter of fact, I just saw a great ruin recently out in La Ferté-Milon, which I'll cover in my upcoming report about biking the Canal de l'Ourcq.
deyana - Thanks again. I'll see you on SunnyDaze.
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Post by htmb on Nov 4, 2013 23:57:29 GMT
Awesome! Outstanding! Fabulous! I pretty much read it straight through, and what an enjoyable time I had reading your wonderful, and humorous, narrative, and looking over your fabulous pictures. I'm sure I will go back again and again and reread various sections. Thanks for this treat, FMT.
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Post by mich64 on Nov 5, 2013 1:46:56 GMT
Excellent! I had no idea there were that many Chateaus so concentrated in that area. I am afraid to show my husband the photos of that cave, I know he will want to make that journey but I am not too sure I could tolerate that wait in line!
Do you have to walk back up those stairs in the cave or after the boat ride are you on a path back to the car parks?
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Post by fumobici on Nov 5, 2013 3:24:07 GMT
Took me half the day just slacking while working to get through, but well worth the time. This is obviously a wonderful part of France to visit, with so much to see in such (from an American perspective) a small area. I'm now sold on Les Plus Beaux Villages, which seems as meritocratic as the excellent I Borghi Piu Belli version in Italy. Thank you kindly for ably navigating us through the twenty one rings of la Corrèze from human statue tourist inferno to medieval charm tsunami paradiso.
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Post by frenchmystiquetour on Nov 5, 2013 20:13:49 GMT
htmb - I can't believe you read it all in one sitting. Good work!
mich64 - As kerouac pointed out, many of the châteaux in the south still exist because they didn't get all those bombs dropped on them in the 20th century. It seems like there's a châteaux every 5-10 km but not all of them are of the fantastic fairytale looking variety. Some of them just look like impressive big homes. From what I remember there was an elevator from the above ground surface of the cave down into the main cavity and then it was stairs after that but I don't recall that there were a lot of stairs after the main descent. I didn't take the elevator so I can't remember all the details unfortunately. You exit the cave the same way you enter.
fumo - Glad you were getting paid at work for slacking off. The Plus Beaux Villages and I Borghi Piu Belli is basically the same concept. As you can tell not all of the Plus Beaux Villages are packed with tourists. I like "medieval charm tsunami paradiso". Has a very literary sound to it. I may borrow that term sometime.
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