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Post by Deleted on Jan 30, 2014 21:10:45 GMT
Southern Bali has been very much criticised over the last 30 years or so as having become an annex of Australia. Towns like Kuta, Sanur or Nusa Dua are considered to be just party towns of bars, hotels and souvenir shops with absolutely no local culture left. Frankly, one thing that allows me to disagree is the fact that I live in Paris, a city that can also be seen as having numerous unbearable tourist ghettos that have lost all of their culture when there is a Starbucks or a Subway sandwich shop on seemingly every street in certain areas. And yet even in those zones, local culture can shine through if you know how to look for it. I feel that the same is true in Bali, even though obviously there are hundreds of delightful places in Indonesia that do not seem to be an "annex of Australia." I have been there just twice, arriving on the ferry from Java. Both trips were scheduled so as to arrive in Denpasar around 5 a.m. after an excruciating overnight trip, and believe me, there is no way I am going to sleep during an Indonesian ferry ride in the middle of the night after reading so many articles with headlines like " 350 victims in Indonesian ferry disaster." In fact, the very first thing I did both times was to get out of the bus in the hold and go up on deck until we started pulling into port in Bali. It's a very short trip, but still! After arriving at the bus station at Denpasar, one must negotiate transportation to one of the beach cities. It has always been pretty cheap but it is still annoying to face so many loud and pushy people after a nearly sleepless night. I stayed in Kuta both times and arrived just as there started to be a bit of light in the sky. It's much too early then to start hunting for accommodations, so the very best thing to do is to walk to the beach and appreciate the sunrise. The Balinese have always seemed to me to be very hard workers, especially those in the tourist trade, but there are plenty of them on the beach at dawn, swimming or playing football, before the start of the work day, or before going to school.
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Post by fumobici on Jan 30, 2014 21:38:50 GMT
Amazing set of photos, that last one is actually awe inspiring. Having never visited the tropics, the skies look somehow alien and exotic to these temperate eyes. SE Asia continues to intrigue me, but will I go? Hawaii is sooooo much nearer.
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Post by questa on Jan 30, 2014 23:10:30 GMT
Dear Kerouac I just saw your dawn photos of the beach
and wept.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 31, 2014 7:30:43 GMT
I didn't mean to make anybody weep, questa. Dawn is available everywhere in the world, even though a lot of us live in places where we do not have an unobstructed view. However, I do understand your feeling when I think of all of the other stuff that comes with dawn in a place like that -- the slight aroma of smoke in the air, the tinkling of bells, animal noises, the far off sputtering of a motor bike, cooking pots clattering behind low walls, the rustling of the little waves on shore, the children laughing at each other.
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Post by bjd on Jan 31, 2014 8:46:18 GMT
Your photos and descriptions of the sunrise noises in Bali made me want to go there immediately. How long ago were these pictures taken?
On the other hand, the chunky people in the last photo are not the way I picture the Balinese at all. Were they tourists?
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Post by questa on Jan 31, 2014 11:20:20 GMT
I have left so much of my heart in Bali. Many dear friends, adopted grand daughters and ordinary people who always want to stop and hear my news. Then the beauty of the island, from coloured skies to traditional dancers. When I see photos like Kerouac's I get very homesick for Bali.
Among the early morning sounds is the scratchy sweeping of the verandas, paths and grass with the bamboo stick brooms.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 31, 2014 13:24:56 GMT
Bjd, the chunky people were most likely Koreans. I don't think locals could ever be foolish enough to stand in such a place.
Questa, how could I have forgotten the sound of all of those brooms?
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Post by tod2 on Jan 31, 2014 16:21:32 GMT
Kerouac....Your sunrise at dawn on Bali is total magic. I'm sure many Balinese see it but not many tourists. Am I right in thinking Bali has got a bad rap in the news in the last 3 yrs or so? Is this the place that Disco bombings took place? Am I on the right continent?
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Post by Deleted on Jan 31, 2014 17:34:04 GMT
Yes, that trip was just one month after the bombings in Bali, which is why there were no tourists anywhere in Indonesia. In fact, the taxi that took us to Kuta dropped us off right in front of the crater where 202 people died (including 88 Australians). And actually, all of that happened 12 years ago. Time flies, doesn't it?
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Post by Deleted on Jan 31, 2014 18:05:28 GMT
Just love the photos, Kerouac. AMAZING sunsets! and Frankly, I'm just in awe at how well you describe things. You write in a way that captures the attention, fascinates, as well as informs. I just never get enough. So those were the viscous monkeys. Questa, it's funny how we remember those little things - The bamboo broom and the scratchy sound it made.
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Post by questa on Feb 1, 2014 1:03:55 GMT
Deyana...first thing every morning is to sweep around the house and yard. This removes the leaf and twig litter which is where the spiders and snakes etc. might hide...so I was told, but as in most things the Balinese do, there is a spiritual aspect to it, cleansing the property just before doing the first offering/prayers ceremony of the day in and around the home.
K2...how could you forget the cocks (roosters)!
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Post by questa on Feb 1, 2014 1:35:26 GMT
This is the memorial to those killed by the Bali bombing. It has their names grouped by nationality and of course it was the local people who suffered the most. The memorial is in Kuta on the site of the Sari Club and opposite Paddy's Bar where the each bomb went off.
At the time I was working for Dept of Health in Lombok, the island next to Bali and a 20 minute flight away. The Lombok chief said I could go to Bali to help as I was fully qualified, spoke the language and understood the hospital system. All I needed was the Oz consul to officially "ask for me to help" My emails went un-answered as I watched on TV and saw how the ordinary gutsy tourists were doing the work I could have done.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 1, 2014 6:24:36 GMT
Yes, the corner of the Sari Club crater is exactly where the taxi took me. It's nice that they chose that spot for a memorial instead of giving in to commercial urges on the busiest street of the area.
I didn't forget them -- I just didn't detail the "animal noises" which also include a few little dogs barking and the birds waking up.
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Post by anshjain97 on Feb 1, 2014 14:47:33 GMT
When I travel, I am never in a mood to get up early to go to the beach at sunrise so the sunrise pictures are great.
The introduction to Bali is very interesting as I know hordes of people who have visited but we have never, although it always seems a good idea.
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Post by lugg on Feb 1, 2014 18:29:30 GMT
Enjoying this thread K2, especially as I continue to research my Indonesian trip. Love the sunrise photos- Pics 4 and 5 are especially joyous. I have been wondering about Ubud ; whether it is too commercialised following the publication of Elizabeth Gilbert's book ? However - I think it will be on my list of places to visit. Questa - I guess you must have felt very frustrated when your emails offering help were not answered. Thank you for posting your photos of the memorial.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 1, 2014 18:43:47 GMT
I think that in cases like that, they are overwhelmed with questions and offers, some of which are of no interest whatsoever. I imagine that if questa had just showed up, they would have been thrilled to have her assistance. But there is no way that anybody would make an official decision about it in such a catastrophic situation.
Frankly, I almost drove to Sarajevo with a friend during the siege there. We felt that something absolutely had to be done, but in the end we were too reasonable in terms of real life. That might be why we are still alive.
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Post by questa on Feb 1, 2014 20:46:50 GMT
Kerouac2...you are quite right, if I had just gone to Bali...OK, but it was frustrating, ne'er the less.
Lugg...Ubud is a good place to stay as it is cooler and more peaceful. It is easier to do day trips from there, the traffic in the south adds another hour to any trip. There are also concerts and performances every night in Ubud and accommodation ranges from back-pack to where Princess Diana stayed on her frequent quiet getaways ($US 1000+ per night). The village of Ubud is now a considerable town but you only have to go off the main road and the traditional life is still there. I am putting together some photos as a "snapshot" of Bali for you.
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Post by questa on Feb 2, 2014 0:22:27 GMT
I have tried to show "ordinary Bali". The Balinese live in a world of performances for temple and other celebrations, so a little is included. I'll post without comment, if you have questions, fire away. Between Kerouac and I, we will make up something convincing! A typical street in Ubud that is not a major road The craft market Ubud Women making the little leaf and flower offering baskets Bedulu has important remnants of the long pre-Balinese civilisation This one is a good Earth spirit...here on part of the Prince of Ubud's ceremonial coffin. One day I may show you all about it. A small village gamelan practising in Selamadeg More to come...
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Post by questa on Feb 2, 2014 0:24:05 GMT
The view from Jatihluwih in the western area. The mountain pic joins on to the left side of the other.
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Post by questa on Feb 2, 2014 0:59:20 GMT
At Klung Kung is the Ancient Court of Justice where the felon could look at the ceiling and walls to see what punishment his (or her) crime was likely to receive. In the West of Bali are the Water Gardens which the king built for his people The water gardens are Near Amlapura Near Ubud is Petulu where 1000s white birds fly in each night to roost. Sanur has a quieter beach than the other side of the peninsula Lake Bratan in the mountains. Too wet to photo the lovely temple in the lake. Traditional musician at concert. Monkey Forest Road (Ubud's busiest)when 'closed' for a ceremony. Waterfall near Sanur
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Post by mich64 on Feb 2, 2014 20:54:27 GMT
When I think of Bali, exotic always comes to mind. These photos emphasize that for me. Kerouac I enjoyed very much how you described the emergence of dawn. Questa your additions are beautiful. One in particular was the terraced rice fields, such lush levels. And of course, I wanted to be able to touch everything in that photo of the market.
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Post by bjd on Feb 3, 2014 8:04:56 GMT
One your first street photo, questa, there are looping decorations overhanging the street. Were they for a specific occasion or just there permanently?
The presence of the craft shops makes me think there are quite a few tourists in Ubud as well.
And a question about the climate -- is it hot and humid?
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Post by tod2 on Feb 3, 2014 8:13:41 GMT
Loving your photos Questa - I noticed the 'delicious monster' plants in the foreground of one of the photos of the Water gardens - they grow almost out of control here in my garden too!
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Post by questa on Feb 3, 2014 8:57:14 GMT
bjd...the Balinese year is 30 weeks long. During each year is a 10 day celebration when "the gods" come down and are housed in the village temples. These 'penjors' are made from bamboo poles and decorated with young coconut leaves, hung with flowers and shells and each house has its own traditional designs. They are meant to represent the curve of the Holy mountain and the family connection to the holy ones. The 1st day, a Wednesday, is called 'galungan' and everyone dresses in beautiful traditional clothes and goes to the temple to welcome the gods. For the 10 days there is dancing and puppet shows, processions and dramas of the old stories to entertain the visitors. At the end day, a Saturday, they all go to the temple to farewell the gods from the temples, taking offerings of yellow rice and wearing yellow. This day is called Kuningan (Kuning means yellow)and normal life resumes. During this time the spirits are very powerful and the 'Barong' from the temple is paraded around the village driving out evil. The Barong is like the lion of the Chinese Lion Dance but has a face mask of terrifying power with hair and beard. Opposite my café, in a homestay, was an older Swiss man who was psychotic and wouldn't take his meds. His behaviour got dangerous to us all so the people got the Barong team to do his special dance outside the homestay. Next morning the Swiss man went completely crazy and the police and ambulance took him away. Sorry for the long reply...Bali is on my mind lately thanks to Kerouac 2! Weather down south is hot, humid and polluted with traffic fumes. Ubud is in the hills...cooler, unpolluted and less humid but it's more likely to rain in the late afternoons . It is set in rice fields and forests with many lovely walks. Just found this Barong pic.
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Post by questa on Feb 3, 2014 9:05:13 GMT
tod2 One thing that drove me mad was that ANYTHING just stuck in the ground grew rapidly into lush maturity so quickly. Many places just kept to the 100s of gorgeous foliage plants and only grew the few flowering plants needed for temple offerings or medicinals. Where I stayed had a garden of just foliage...I'll post pics.
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Post by questa on Feb 3, 2014 9:44:05 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Feb 3, 2014 10:53:46 GMT
For Anyport members who have not yet discovered the wonders of Bali, I think there is still time to open a travel agency to set up their trips, questa, because your photographs are going to create a stampede to go there.
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Post by questa on Feb 3, 2014 11:04:59 GMT
Thanks to you, dear K2, I will be leading the stampede. Wanna meet me there?
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Post by tod2 on Feb 3, 2014 12:27:17 GMT
Yippee! I was hoping you had a photo of that hanging flower, Heliconia rostrata – Hanging Lobster Claw...the red and yellow one right in the far background in photo:8. I was delighted to see what I think are young frangipani trees, and the biggest 'Birds nest' fern besides loads of small ones, crotons, and and lots of plants I don't know the names of but are common in our gardens in South Africa.
Your photos are fab and the homestay looks more than wonderful!
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Post by questa on Feb 3, 2014 14:04:29 GMT
This one?
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