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Post by Deleted on Feb 16, 2014 10:15:59 GMT
Andermatt is a rather small village in the canton of Uri, but it has seen hundreds of thousands of people pass through over the centuries because it is the very last settlement on the northern side of the Saint Gotthard pass. To get from the north to the south of the country people had no choice but to make the gruelling trek over the mountains or else make a detour of several hundred kilometres. However, the Gotthard rail tunnel was completed in 1882 (more than 200 workers died during the construction) and finally in 1980 the road tunnel opened. I don't know if any workers were killed on the second tunnel, but it most definitely killed the village of Andermatt. Well, almost. After being in a coma for a number of years as the hotels closed one after another, the village was rescured by developers who finally arrived to turn it into a new ski resort for people who can't afford St. Moritz or Gstaad. We had to change trains again at Göschenen, where the train to Andermatt was waiting. It's only a five minute trip but requires a different cog railway line due to the steepness of the ascent. Meanwhile, we were beginning to see some blue sky.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 16, 2014 11:42:24 GMT
During the short final ride to Andermatt, I was told to be careful to look for "The Devil's Bridge."
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Post by bjd on Feb 16, 2014 12:10:21 GMT
I just had a look for the altitude (1400m or so) and although it's not that high, there is definitely not much snow on the ground for this time of year.
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Post by bixaorellana on Feb 16, 2014 14:25:45 GMT
What a lovely and interesting report!
You got some great pictures. Glad you didn't find it "disappointing" despite the lack of sufficient snow. I'm fascinated by the snow on those rooftops. Is that strata caused by different snowfalls or just something caused by wind? (poor me, who has been away from snow too long to know)
Once you reached your destination the weather must have improved. The air looks so crisp and clear.
In the photo below the one of the Gotthard rail tunnel, are those highway or rail switchbacks? Covered pedestrian ways perhaps? Amazing to think of that difficult construction. The devil's bridge is also an amazing feat of construction. (The devil must have been quite the contractor in his day. The aqueduct at Segovia was also built by the devil, with the prayers of the locals finally making the keystone too heavy for him to lift.)
I can't tell if the river is frozen or not. Either way, very picturesque.
Are those snow fences in the picture with the cable car? And one last question -- what were you wearing to keep from freezing?
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Post by fumobici on Feb 16, 2014 15:36:44 GMT
Great report. This part of Switzerland is indeed achingly picturesque isn't it? Great eyes think alike apparently, although you timed your shot better and didn't include the guy wire.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 16, 2014 17:19:47 GMT
Yes, Fumo, that train line calls out for photos just about everywhere. The only reason that you didn't see any posts in mine is because I took three or four photos before managing to get a shot that was unobstructed. Walking around town, I realized what a small village Andermatt really is because we kept meeting people that my friend knew -- the owner of the old traditional hotel, one of the restaurant owners, the hardware shop owner and various other people. This is pretty impressive for someone whose family left Andermatt in the early 1980's. However, it is very easy to understand. My friend was the baker's son, and absolutely everybody in the village knows the baker and his family because they are all customers. His family left Andermatt when it was obvious that the new road tunnel had killed the village and the bakery was not viable anymore. They later settled in Lenzburg and had a hugely successful bakery there.
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Post by tod2 on Feb 16, 2014 18:44:45 GMT
Absolutely wonderful! The snow looks like frosting on a Xmas cake in this last photo! What a delightful trip and filled with good tips and advice for those of us who may follow in your footsteps.
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Post by bjd on Feb 16, 2014 19:12:23 GMT
Since there is no more bakery, and few other shops I assume, what is there in Andermatt other than hotels and restaurants?
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Post by Deleted on Feb 16, 2014 19:43:51 GMT
I didn't really make an inventory of the shops, although I did notice a couple specialised in ski apparel and another one which actually had Heidi t-shirts, but I assume that there is at least a superette in the village, especially since the "new things" were built. I regret that I didn't photograph the new development that has just been built and which has all of the locals talking -- negatively -- about it. It is a very large apartment complex, which I must admit is impeccable in style, basing itself on traditional chalet architecture but supersized -- I am talking about 8 stories tall. What horrified the village folk is that it purposely surrounded a few houses and a retirement home on three sides when they would not sell out, completely obstructing their view of everything. So now it is quite likely that the recalcitrants finally will sell their places, which will be demolished. Apparently the retirement home will be the winner, because the developers have already promised a spectacular new place with a great view -- but I think we all know that old people don't like to be forced to move and particularly to have to leave the heart of the village. But even in Andermatt, the 21st century wins out in the end. Anyway, the next decision was what to do next -- take the chairlift or "walk up" to have lunch at the restaurant "up there." Unfortunately, I knew already that the decision had been made. Only a sissy would take the chairlift, and the fact that my two friends on this trip were 16 and 21 years younger than me was a minor detail to be completely ignored. "You'll see. It's a very easy walk."
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Post by mich64 on Feb 16, 2014 20:36:39 GMT
When I did an internet search on Andermatt images one of the photos was the new 8 storey residence. Besides the height, I think the architecture suits the area but agree the size does not. I prefer to see the chalet style than the other alternative of square cement block units.
I thought I recognized Andermatt and when I seen it on the map I realized we would have bypassed it when we took the tunnel on our way to Lugano.
We have taken the train in Switzerland from Interlaken to Toon and had a great window and view. I found it interesting that the kids take the train to school, we are so used to school buses here. Rail services are being greatly reduced here, very sad.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 16, 2014 20:44:46 GMT
My friend said he used to have to take the train to school at 6 a.m. I'm not sure what town the school was in. Anyway, here is the route of our pleasant little walk uphill.
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Post by htmb on Feb 16, 2014 22:54:20 GMT
It takes me a week to get used to the higher altitude (8,000-10,000 ft) when I go visit my family in the mountains. I would be huffing and puffing up this little path just for that reason alone. Were your friends acclimated to the altitude?
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Post by mich64 on Feb 17, 2014 0:31:29 GMT
I have had headaches as long as I can remember. The only time that I had relief from it was the day we were on top of the Schilthorn in Switzerland which is 2970 metres high. I felt wonderful, have never known what it felt like to be pain free, I did not want to go down! Reminds me that I should try to schedule in a trip up the Zugspitze for September.
The sunshine made the snow look so beautiful and crisp. When you are not in a hurry, a walk like this is a pleasure. I hope you remembered to bring sunglasses.
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Post by tod2 on Feb 17, 2014 7:21:31 GMT
I pat you on the back Kerouac! I could never do it. I hope the walk up did your heart good and the rarefied air cleared out all the city air of Paris I only hope the next day did not prove painful in the muscles and joints...
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Post by Deleted on Feb 17, 2014 7:31:35 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Feb 17, 2014 8:43:38 GMT
Anyway, we had a simple lunch -- sausages and chips -- which hit the spot. While we were eating it began to snow, but I would have vetoed the hopeful suggestion that we rent sleds to ride back down to the village anyway. Watching other people on sleds as we had walked up, I noticed far too many places where a neophyte could go over the edge -- not over a cliff, but down a sufficiently steep snowbank which I was not ready to face. But the little restaurant was next to the next train station, so we took the train back down. It should be mentioned that Andermatt has been partially destroyed by avalanches several times over the centuries -- in spite of the protective forest or which a big piece is clearly missing. The most recent big avalanches were in 1951 and 1975. My friend said that there was one period during an avalanche alert where he and his family had to live, along with all of the guests of a hotel, in the back end of a restaurant for three days. It was the strongest part of the building and the most likely to survive an avalanche. Obviously, the village was totally cut off from the world, so there was no way to even evacuate. I imagine that all new constructions have reinforced areas that are considered avalanche proof.
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Post by tod2 on Feb 17, 2014 13:43:35 GMT
Amazing and really beautiful! Wow what a walk but it sounds as if you enjoyed your achievement immensely - (more and more pats on the back!!) Those mountain peaks are nothing but AWESOME I enjoyed this Swiss outing with you and your friends!
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Post by htmb on Feb 17, 2014 14:53:35 GMT
Loved the photos of the village church interior. Very pretty. Cold, beautiful, interesting, panoramic, exhausting are all thoughts that come to mind after reading this report. I'm not particularly attracted to snow and high altitudes, but have enjoyed reading about your day-trip, Kerouac. Was there much in the way of skiing or sledding traffic coming down that path as you walked up? The path certainly looked suited to my own skiing abilities. I'm a "champion" when it comes to snowplowing down a mountain run and have fine-tuned my ability to use colorful words on my few attempts at skiing. In looking at the plexiglass covered moving sidewalks returning skiers back to the top of the run, I think I would have felt very claustrophobic and have to wonder about the air ventilation inside.
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Post by mossie on Feb 17, 2014 15:33:03 GMT
This is certainly the best way to view mountain scenery, snow., hills and wet are definitely not for me. And nor is beer in a plastic cup, whatever next. In the very next picture is that a yeti waving to you from the top of the mountain ?
Full marks for effort, this idler would stay on the train.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 17, 2014 18:56:08 GMT
That indicates different snowfalls.
That is the normal highway to the Gotthard road tunnel. I drove on that road one during a sunny October and loved it. There are lots of roofs over the roadway for obvious reasons.
The river is not frozen, but I would imagine that during a 'hard' winter, it continues to flow under a crust of ice.
Yes, the snow fences are to prevent small avalanches. I'm sure they are quite aware of the specific places most susceptible to the problem.
As for my clothing, I was overdressed -- four layers. I didn't feel like a complete idiot, because my friends had to take off their jackets as well after awhile. When it is sunny, any physical effort makes the extra protection superfluous.
They do this sort of stuff all the time, but I had the consolation of how they keep talking about how I walked their legs off in Paris.
I am lucky that I can walk forever and it doesn't bother me. I wasn't even tired that night. (Good thing, because my friend was hosting a dinner party in the apartment where I was staying that night -- just one hour after we arrived back in Zürich!)
There were not all that many people, but sometimes we had to move to one side or the other, especially when it was obvious that some of the skiers or sledders were novices who needed as much room as possible. This is what helped me to decide that I would not sled back down.
Actually, I drank my beer straight from the can on the right. The cup on the left contained hot tea that another friend was drinking.
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Post by lugg on Feb 17, 2014 19:42:41 GMT
Stunning just stunning- thank you K2 for your report. Andermatt itself looks charming but the mountains are just wonderful.
Looking at Fumobici's pic taken in almost exactly the same place emphasises for me how small the world can be sometimes. I suspect that I have flown over this area ( in general terms ) many times and have often looked down, and sometimes across, to this wonderful part of the Alps wondering what it is like on the ground.
I guess that the photo of the Devils bridge shows not only the current bridge but a previous crossing which I can imagine was very scary to cross covered in ice and snow.
I was also in awe of the wonderful trains - and the engineering of the tracks and tunnels.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 17, 2014 19:48:14 GMT
I have overflown the Alps at least 20 or 30 times myself and have always been mesmerized by the spectacle below. I have also flow over the Himolaya a few times and thought they were sticking up too much in terms of the altitude of the plane.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 18, 2014 20:33:10 GMT
I feel an imperious need to mention the Swiss Pass to anybody planning a trip to Switzerland. I was only there for a weekend, so I resisted my friends' supplications to buy one because the minimum period is for 4 days. It covers absolutely all urban transportation in the cities of Switzerland (trams, buses, commuter trains...) and all trains, with a 50% discount on special tourist trains and cable cars, not to mention free admission to 470 museums in Switzerland. Why didn't I buy it? Well, my round trip from Paris to Zürich only cost 98€ and the price of a 4-day Swiss Pass is 272 francs = 223 euros. During my weekend in Zürich, I spent about 15 francs on tram tickets and about 85 francs on train tickets, so I obviously came out ahead. But if I had had unlimited transportation like my friends, I'm pretty sure we would have gone to even more places. Just about every active person in Switzerland has an unlimited national pass that covers all of the same things (except maybe the museums), and a major example of this was at the party that I attended Saturday night. When it ended, some of the people were taking the train back to Bern, Lausanne or Lucerne, just like people in Paris take the metro home to a place just a couple kilometres away. I have noticed this many times in the past, but the fact that the Swiss transportation system is so excellent makes this just a minor detail for the residents. They have shrunk their country to the size of a big city and crisscross it constantly. Here is the site for the Swiss Pass: www.swiss-pass.ch/en/swiss-pass?gclid=CL-D_5-_1rwCFbLJtAodqEYANg
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Post by mich64 on Feb 19, 2014 0:14:01 GMT
I agree Kerouac their the have a superior system. The one thing that I was glad that I had read up on was that the trains sometimes part and go in different directions so you have to be careful in reading the destination name on the car you are getting on even though you are sure you have the right track.
We found in Scotland the same in regards to people using the train from small towns into the city, seemed just like they were taking the bus. We took the train from Glasgow to Stirling and when we came back a group of ladies got on and began their party on the train, they opened a bottle of sparkling wine and even brought along a supply of plastic wineglasses. They seemed very comfortable and that they did this frequently. They drank, applied their make-up, fixed their hair, had a great old time!
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Post by bixaorellana on Feb 19, 2014 15:28:48 GMT
Just wow, over and over again. It's taken me a while to get through this report as there is so much fascinating information that needs scrutinizing. Luckily the info is brilliantly matched with photos, so that it's all "the next best thing to being there".
After seeing this, if someone were to ask me to point to a few particularly exotic threads on Anyport, Andermatt would be high on the list. It's simultaneously remote and accessible, comfortable yet somewhat dangerous, charmingly old-fashioned with hyper-modern conveniences, all in a setting of stunning beauty -- mountains! water! -- what could be more outside the norm?
Kerouac, thanks for all the great answers to questions and the practical and personal details. You've undoubtedly got more than a few viewers now adding Switzerland and Andermatt to their wish lists. Oh yeah -- and super fabulous beautiful photos!
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Post by Deleted on Feb 19, 2014 18:24:50 GMT
Thanks to everybody who appreciated this thread. I thought that Andermatt was a wonderful place to visit, particularly will all of the extra information provided by my friend. I didn't even look at a map before being taken around, so I was thrilled to discover so many new places on a short trip.
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Post by Zurich on Feb 21, 2014 22:58:59 GMT
May I add as a local some slight corrections to funny reading, it is always fun to read a outside view. My friend said he used to have to take the train to school at 6 a.m. I'm not sure what town the school was in. Anyway, here is the route of our pleasant little walk uphill. The rode you walked upwards to the Nätschen station from Andermatt, is not the route to the Passo del San Gottardo in the South, but, as it is indicated by the name of the street on the map you show, the route to the Oberalp pass in the East that leads to the Grisons (Graubünden). The same pass that is being passed by the Glacier Express between Zermatt and St. Moritz/Davos. When you look down to Andermatt, in the far distance at the other end of the valley you see the Furka pass, which leads to the Valais in the West. In the photo below the one of the Gotthard rail tunnel, are those highway or rail switchbacks? Covered pedestrian ways perhaps The covers you see here are actually not covering the Gotthard autobahn, because here you are already above Göschenen, where the railway as well as the road tunnels begin. On the left side it covers the cogwheel rail track you just drove through, on the right side it covers the normal cantonal street from Göschenen to Andermatt. But of course, the Gotthard autobahn is also very often covered the same way, but then of course by quite a wider roof. In German we call it galleries. And finally we were back in Zürich by the lake. Yes, Zürich lies next to the lake of the same name. However what you see on the picture below this text is the river Limmat.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 24, 2014 18:26:26 GMT
Yes, I will admit to rather sloppily calling the view of Zürich as being "lakeside" but the lake begins less than 500 metres away, so I hope that you will forgive me. In Geneva, the separation between Lac Léman and the Rhône is much more obvious, because the lake is on one side of the bridge and the river begins on the other side of the bridge.
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Post by fgrsk8r1970 on Feb 24, 2014 19:31:48 GMT
Breathtaking photos - I would be in photography paradise in Andermatt and I would walk all the way up that mountain for sure!!! just beautiful and what a great report Kerouac!!!
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Post by kerouac2 on Mar 1, 2020 17:16:12 GMT
Really, this was one of the best days ever. Recently, I mentioned it to my Swiss friend, and he said "I don't remember that at all." That's because such things are totally ordinary to him.
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